Yet another reason to buy local: Dolmar Blower

Yet another reason to buy local: Dolmar Blower

Joined: May 19th, 2013, 7:18 pm

April 7th, 2017, 7:58 pm #1

Dolmar is a German company, but sold locally.

Bought a Dolmar 4 cycle leaf blower several years ago. This spring it started to cut out at full throttle. Running without the air filter it ran fine.

The air filter alone cost $20 on line from Parts Tree.

Rather than just buy the filter I thought it was time for a 200 hour service. Took it back to the dealer for a service check.

Dealer replaced the air filter, the fuel filter, spark plug, adjusted the points, and repaired some carburetor air flow flapper that had come loose from its screws.

Total cost: $19.80. That is crazy low cost for all those parts and the work to find them.

Will buy another Dolmar chainsaw from him later this month.

Dolmar info:
http://www.dolmarpowerproducts.com/productcatalog/
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Joined: March 18th, 2011, 6:24 am

April 8th, 2017, 5:04 am #2

adjusted the points?????? nt
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Joined: August 13th, 2008, 10:45 am

April 8th, 2017, 1:17 pm #3

Dolmar is a German company, but sold locally.

Bought a Dolmar 4 cycle leaf blower several years ago. This spring it started to cut out at full throttle. Running without the air filter it ran fine.

The air filter alone cost $20 on line from Parts Tree.

Rather than just buy the filter I thought it was time for a 200 hour service. Took it back to the dealer for a service check.

Dealer replaced the air filter, the fuel filter, spark plug, adjusted the points, and repaired some carburetor air flow flapper that had come loose from its screws.

Total cost: $19.80. That is crazy low cost for all those parts and the work to find them.

Will buy another Dolmar chainsaw from him later this month.

Dolmar info:
http://www.dolmarpowerproducts.com/productcatalog/
adj Points? Dolmar is now owned by Makita- same chainsaws sold under Makita name just in blue instead of Orange. price is a bit less also. Hopefully with Makita Dolmar association the dealer net work will improve. Dolmar/ Makita- or as we tend to call them Dolita's are profession grade period no messing around with 3 levels of quality like another Big name that has orange in its color scheme. Please note that almost all saws and other 2 stroke equipment are so leaned out from the MFG to meet EPA specs that they should be retuned prior to heavy use other wise you risk burning them up internally. 2 strokes now are at 50-1 gas oil mix- do not add extra oil as this will also cause the units run hot the extra oil acts the same as running too lean. I currently have 6 Dolmars in my arsenal. 2 are about 40 years old 1 is 20 the other 3 are less than 6 - 80-50 cc displacement. I am not a tree service or logger but put up some 10 or more cord of firewood a year as that is my primary winter heat ( sometimes I even sell a little bit if someone inquires as I do not make a biz out it)
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Joined: February 1st, 2014, 12:51 pm

April 8th, 2017, 1:33 pm #4

IMHO.
The actual issue with adding extra oil is that oil displaces gasoline and creates a lean condition.
Tune richer (really it's only compensation, not true richening) and run some Techron to help with carbon.
Running the highest quality oil also helps with carbon (carbon being the major enemy) and somewhat reduces the need for extra oil. SOMEWHAT, but I do still run extra.


Another bit, and the internet gurus can argue all they want but I'm telling you how it IS, don't run EXCLUSIVELY marine 2 stroke oil in anything but marine 2 strokes
You WILL be sorry, and it'll only take a couple minutes!
Last edited by gratewhitehuntr on April 8th, 2017, 1:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: April 28th, 2008, 6:45 am

April 8th, 2017, 9:38 pm #5

that stated in the manual to use TCWII rated oil....outboard oil is what was available with the rating, and was employed. Don't know what your experience was, but my sled lasted a good bit longer than a couple minutes.

As ever, the truth lies in the manual...manufacturers spend goodly sums of money figuring this stuff out...only fools argue.

Al
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Joined: February 1st, 2014, 12:51 pm

April 9th, 2017, 1:01 pm #6

different temps.

You might have found an exception, at least based on a manufacturer's desire to stock a single oil, but this does not apply across the entire world of 2 stroke.
Polaris no longer specs outboard oil for their sleds, for good reason!
Now you will find in the manual CAUTION: "Do not use NMMA TC-W,TC-2 or TC-W3 outboard two-stroke engine oils or ashless two-stroke oils."

Did you ever consider that the manufacturer might be the fool?


As far as actual use..
Did you run the Polaris at WOT for hours in 100 degree ambient temps?
No, because sleds and motorcycles do not operate under static WOT position, unless the rider has a death wish.

Max RPMs are another factor.
One machine might turn intermittent 1000-4000-5000, while the chainsaw is turning 12000.

Loading is another factor.
That leaf blower engine is at 100% load at 6000 RPM, otherwise it would rev to 12000 like it's chainsaw cousin.


Take oil designed for an engine that runs 165-185f, and put in an engine running 350-500f.
You will be disappointed.

I'm not trying to be smart, I'm trying to save someone the hassle/expen$e of a rebuild.
There sits on my bench a Stihl BR400 which ran fabulously until I threw some 4 day old 32-1 boat gas in it (just to finish up)
It ran all of 10 minutes, got hot and lost power. Compression is lowered by 60psi....

I wasn't aware of the problem since I'd never had a boat (or TCW-3) but sure as I'm sitting here that oil blew a engine up in no time flat.
Very surprised (embarassed) to only learn this now, after working on small engines for so many years!
Last edited by gratewhitehuntr on April 9th, 2017, 3:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: April 28th, 2008, 6:45 am

April 9th, 2017, 5:25 pm #7

Seems you are basing your opinion on one experience that MAY be unrelated to the oil.

Only ten minutes research to be honest, but failed to find one example where failure could be honestly traced to the use of outboard oil.

Thinking you might be barking up the wrong tree and it may be worthwhile exploring other potential causes...before it bites you again.


Al
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Joined: February 1st, 2014, 12:51 pm

April 9th, 2017, 9:35 pm #8

Operators would refrain from the use of TCW-3 in air cooled engines spec'd to run API TC (or jaso FD) etc, by manufacturers.
Current production engines are running ever leaner and right on the ragged edge of self destruction, due to emissions, and there is no room for mistakes.


If you'd like to hunt for smoking guns...well those are harder to find.
Ethanol is well known as a destroyer of 2smokes, but it'd be hard to find a DIRECT example of ethanol causing failures.
Yet in the example of my hotsaws, they run like pure crap on ethanol fuel, will overheat and start to shut off after a mere 45 seconds.
With ethanol free fuel they'll run for several minutes, and stronger.

My little bit of research indicates that any Polaris spec'd for TCW-2 was a water cooled machine, or was air cooled and had problems which would explain why Polaris stopped telling everyone that TWC-3 was universal.
How that fits into a thread about air cooled lawn eq is beyond me.


Qualifications? 2smokes are my favorite engines, I've been repairing, rebuilding, modifying and tuning them for about 20 years. I just LOVE the way they sound!
The Stihl BR400 was taken on trade, I'd just gone through the carb 10 hours before and decarb'd, tuned. Cylinder looked good, compression good.
It had just run 2 hours straight, I tune by ear and would notice problems, then it blowed up a couple minutes after refueling with boat gas.
It had been tuned to run 32:1, same as the boat runs.
Last edited by gratewhitehuntr on April 9th, 2017, 10:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: April 28th, 2008, 6:45 am

April 9th, 2017, 10:45 pm #9

1976 Colt 340 was free air...not even a fan.

Putting ethanol fuel into something tuned for ethanol free would cause it to run leaner. Try adjusting the high speed needle. Would be aggravated if the mixture were already on the lean side, and would run like crap and overheat...

The reason ethanol fuels get a bad rap in small engines is compatibility issues between the ethanol and the soft parts in the carbs. Ethanol is also hygroscopic...absorbs moisture out of the air, this can cause issues for some folks who leave fuel in power equipment for extended periods of time...over winter.

You don't "tune" for an oil mix. Use the manufacturers recommendations for premix ratios.

Al



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Joined: February 1st, 2014, 12:51 pm

April 9th, 2017, 11:32 pm #10

Modified engines do not work that way. Stock rpm will be very rich and bog under load.
This may sound silly but modified 2 strokes are more common than you might think, the most common mod being relief from muffler induced backpressure.

Ethanol has more effects than soft carb parts.
The water will come out as sludge chunks and stop the carb right up, sometimes in a couple weeks or less! Corrosion like crazy!
https://www.google.com/search?q=ethanol ... 600#imgrc=_

Yes hotsaws do run...er...HOT LOL. In this instance the poorer performance of ethanol fuel becomes obvious, however it's tuned.

If you think hotsaws are an invalid comparison, then so is a snowmobile from back when dinosaurs roamed the earth, and produced all the oil/gas.
How about the ratio? I bet it didn't run 50:1.
How long do you suppose that machine would have lasted at WOT in 90 degree ambient?
Yah YOU GOT ME!
You found a oil that doesn't exist anymore, and a machine that would NEVER get past the EPA, that never ran ethanol, that only ran in the winter, and threw it into a thread about MODERN machines.
reply with your PP and I'll send you the cost of a cookie.....

Now considering the OP context, and that KW (no offense) thinks points are still being used AND this defines the level of mechanical knowledge in the general population, do you really think it's a GOOD idea to come tell people that marine oil is acceptable in air cooled 2 strokes?
No, no it is not.
Last edited by gratewhitehuntr on April 12th, 2017, 1:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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