Took a little project to work with me today

Took a little project to work with me today

Joined: March 6th, 2002, 3:54 am

July 15th, 2007, 4:18 am #1

Decided to work today to make up for a sick day, so at the shop, after getting the CNC Lathe running with the parts, I started working on my scope mount.

I recently got a Burris mini 4x plex scope to put on a project R1k that I've been rebuilding. Wanted to try an old school, light, scope, and to mate it I mounted it in old Burris metal rings. Those are made for .22's and air rifles and very nicely matched the scope.

The only problem was that it didn't have recoil pin, and the scope moved a few times even after degreasing the dovetails and tightening the mounts well.

I was going to add another scope stop but I didn't have one that fit under the mounts so I just decided to drill one mount for a pin.

I had just gotten a nice BKL stop, and they put a .160 dia. pin in there but it's a socket head set screw with a turned down dog on it. I didn't have room for threads as there is a screw that goes from side to side in the middle of the mount so I did the next best thing and maybe better. I just drilled a .160 hole from bottom to top, coming out in middle of ring towards the rear. It's about .04 from rear wall of mount to wall of hole, but it's in steel so I don't think it will give problems there.

For the pin, I just grabbed an old socket head bolt, (Almost all socket head black oxide steel bolts are grade eight steel and very strong) something like 3/16 bolt by 1" long, chucked on the head, and turned down the threaded shaft until just over .160" then polished it a bit. I left part of it about a .001 larger to press fit. I cut it .625 long to give it enough engagement that I could then sand off until it was just right.



This turned out great, gave new useful life to a nice set of mounts now capable of magnum recoil. You wouldn't even know it's got a pin without careful looking, when mounted and if it breaks or needs replaced, you can just use a pin punch to drift it out easily. Make a new one to fit another sized hole, make it steped or whatever floats your boat.

Just thought this might interest some of you as a quick, easy project that's very useful.

Bryan
Last edited by BEnoch on July 15th, 2007, 4:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: March 6th, 2002, 3:54 am

July 19th, 2007, 1:58 am #2

Wow that's a cool project. Not to complicated and very useful. Wonder why nobody has posted anything. Good job!

A picture would be nice.

Buddy
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Joined: March 6th, 2002, 3:54 am

July 19th, 2007, 2:01 am #3

Wow, thanks buddy. I didn't think anybody was ever gonna read this thread. You know that simple pin let's me use those nice classic mounts and they don't slip a bit now, and I didn't have to waste money on a scope stop.

The scope kept sliding before, but not now.

Anyway, thanks for the compliment.

Bryan,

P.S. Sorry, no pictures of it yet.
Last edited by BEnoch on July 19th, 2007, 2:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: July 11th, 2001, 7:44 pm

July 20th, 2007, 12:10 pm #4

Decided to work today to make up for a sick day, so at the shop, after getting the CNC Lathe running with the parts, I started working on my scope mount.

I recently got a Burris mini 4x plex scope to put on a project R1k that I've been rebuilding. Wanted to try an old school, light, scope, and to mate it I mounted it in old Burris metal rings. Those are made for .22's and air rifles and very nicely matched the scope.

The only problem was that it didn't have recoil pin, and the scope moved a few times even after degreasing the dovetails and tightening the mounts well.

I was going to add another scope stop but I didn't have one that fit under the mounts so I just decided to drill one mount for a pin.

I had just gotten a nice BKL stop, and they put a .160 dia. pin in there but it's a socket head set screw with a turned down dog on it. I didn't have room for threads as there is a screw that goes from side to side in the middle of the mount so I did the next best thing and maybe better. I just drilled a .160 hole from bottom to top, coming out in middle of ring towards the rear. It's about .04 from rear wall of mount to wall of hole, but it's in steel so I don't think it will give problems there.

For the pin, I just grabbed an old socket head bolt, (Almost all socket head black oxide steel bolts are grade eight steel and very strong) something like 3/16 bolt by 1" long, chucked on the head, and turned down the threaded shaft until just over .160" then polished it a bit. I left part of it about a .001 larger to press fit. I cut it .625 long to give it enough engagement that I could then sand off until it was just right.



This turned out great, gave new useful life to a nice set of mounts now capable of magnum recoil. You wouldn't even know it's got a pin without careful looking, when mounted and if it breaks or needs replaced, you can just use a pin punch to drift it out easily. Make a new one to fit another sized hole, make it steped or whatever floats your boat.

Just thought this might interest some of you as a quick, easy project that's very useful.

Bryan
get my set of BKLs to stay put without a stop on my R9 with a lot of clamp pressure but ended up wrecking the mounts after a few "install/removal" procedures. Here's a pic of the wrecked mount.......

As you can see, the repeated loosening and reclamping actually extruded the bottom of the forged 6061 aluminium (think that the material BKL advertized) and one set of the threads stripped prior but was fixed with a lathe turned steel threaded insert. If I could have used a stop pin then I wouldn't have been clamping so tightly. I did use a scope stop in the beginning however the positioning of the stop block in the R9 stop pin holes made for a less than optimum positioning of the rear scope mount. Another issue with the Beeman stop block I used was the fact that it was a pain to remove once the scope was installed because the pin was directly under the scope tube so I ended up shortening a leg on the allen wrench making it possible to remove the stop block and then slide the scope with mounts off the scope rail without having to remove the scope from the mounts.

Question.....do you slide the mount base on the scope rail, install the stop pin and then use the clamping force of the base screws to also clamping the stop pin, then mount the scope? A while back I was thinking of a similar setup but couldn't figure out how to "remove/replace" the scope mounted to the BKL since the stop pin wouldn't allow it to slide off the rails unless the scope were removed. Hummmm.....come to think of it....I'm thinking that you used the "jack screw" feature of the BKL mount to spread the "claws" for removal.

Anywhoo, I gave up on the stop pin idea for the BKL and opted to buy a 3 sets of AccuShot mounts on sale from Pyramyd Air for about $10 each. They worked a treat however I do prefer the "center clamping" BKL design.

Thanks for posting you solution that worked well, a few pics would be helpful if you get the chance.
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Joined: July 11th, 2001, 7:44 pm

July 20th, 2007, 12:17 pm #5

Wow, thanks buddy. I didn't think anybody was ever gonna read this thread. You know that simple pin let's me use those nice classic mounts and they don't slip a bit now, and I didn't have to waste money on a scope stop.

The scope kept sliding before, but not now.

Anyway, thanks for the compliment.

Bryan,

P.S. Sorry, no pictures of it yet.
Some folks visit this board and only reply if they feel they could add something of interest. I'm guilty of this and I did find your solution interesting but I didn't say thanks. I myself am a "two finder typer" and thoroughly appreciate the thought and effort of those taking the time to post/reply.

Thanks a bunch for posting your good solution to a real problem for any heavier scope mounted on a magnum springer!
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Joined: March 6th, 2002, 3:54 am

July 22nd, 2007, 2:41 am #6

get my set of BKLs to stay put without a stop on my R9 with a lot of clamp pressure but ended up wrecking the mounts after a few "install/removal" procedures. Here's a pic of the wrecked mount.......

As you can see, the repeated loosening and reclamping actually extruded the bottom of the forged 6061 aluminium (think that the material BKL advertized) and one set of the threads stripped prior but was fixed with a lathe turned steel threaded insert. If I could have used a stop pin then I wouldn't have been clamping so tightly. I did use a scope stop in the beginning however the positioning of the stop block in the R9 stop pin holes made for a less than optimum positioning of the rear scope mount. Another issue with the Beeman stop block I used was the fact that it was a pain to remove once the scope was installed because the pin was directly under the scope tube so I ended up shortening a leg on the allen wrench making it possible to remove the stop block and then slide the scope with mounts off the scope rail without having to remove the scope from the mounts.

Question.....do you slide the mount base on the scope rail, install the stop pin and then use the clamping force of the base screws to also clamping the stop pin, then mount the scope? A while back I was thinking of a similar setup but couldn't figure out how to "remove/replace" the scope mounted to the BKL since the stop pin wouldn't allow it to slide off the rails unless the scope were removed. Hummmm.....come to think of it....I'm thinking that you used the "jack screw" feature of the BKL mount to spread the "claws" for removal.

Anywhoo, I gave up on the stop pin idea for the BKL and opted to buy a 3 sets of AccuShot mounts on sale from Pyramyd Air for about $10 each. They worked a treat however I do prefer the "center clamping" BKL design.

Thanks for posting you solution that worked well, a few pics would be helpful if you get the chance.
I've got BKL mounts and really like them, but don't think they will work with installing a pin, due to the way they clamp. I did order some nice BKL stops, $16 ea, and they even come with loc-tite and a allen wrench. Really matches the BKL mounts, that I've come to love so well. Wish they incorperated a stop in their design.

The rings I was putting in a recoil pin were old Burris steel rings. They were beautiful, but didn't work with my R1 as they kept sliding. I drilled a .160 hole all the way through the rear of the back base, then put in a pin with a slight press fit. You can open up the dovetail, even taking off one side, and it just tips the pin in the hole, and you put the other leg on, and tighten her up.

I'll try to take some pictures of it to add to this post.

Thanks for the compliment.

Bryan
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