scope mounting problem

scope mounting problem

Joined: August 25th, 2014, 5:00 pm

November 8th, 2017, 3:40 am #1

i installed a new scope on my sons springer, i used high rings, he would rather medium height, but the problem i have is at 15yds i am still 1 inch high with the elevation turned all the way down clockwise maxed out, are there any tricks that i am not aware of before to get on target without having the elevation maxed out before i have to invest in a adjustable mount, would going to med height rings help at all.


chet
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Joined: January 5th, 2012, 9:45 am

November 8th, 2017, 6:12 am #2

It's shooting as if your scope is angled down a bit. Did you turn down the scope stop pin BEFORE you installed the rings? Depending on the scope rail that could cause the rear one to sit just a little higher
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Joined: August 25th, 2014, 5:00 pm

November 8th, 2017, 12:06 pm #3

i did not turn the stop screw till after i mounted the rings, curious if i go to med height rings will this help at all


chet
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Joined: July 20th, 2005, 1:28 pm

November 8th, 2017, 2:46 pm #4

Yes! Medium rings should move the axis of the bore and axis of the scope closer together and reduce the need for vertical clicks. Also, the closer the bore is to the scope, the flatter (generally) the trajectory.
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Joined: June 4th, 2013, 4:42 am

November 8th, 2017, 3:12 pm #5

Actually, the difference between medium and high rings is pretty insignificant when it comes to being able to zero the scope. For a 15 yard zero, it's somewhere in the ballpark of 1 - 2 MoA...so you're looking at 4 to 8 clicks on a typical 1/4MoA turret. Actually closer to the low end of that range if I'm remembering the typical saddle heights correctly.

To deal with the elevation misalignment, you have a few options. Shimming the base of the rings works fine if done in modest amounts. For example, shims cut from a soda can typically measure 0.005" thick. I don't like to use more than 3 layers, 4 tops. However if you are dealing with a springer, shims can be problematic because they make slippage much more likely. So for a springer, I prefer to either give the barrel a slight tweak or use a drooper mount.
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Joined: April 6th, 2010, 4:08 am

November 8th, 2017, 3:55 pm #6

i installed a new scope on my sons springer, i used high rings, he would rather medium height, but the problem i have is at 15yds i am still 1 inch high with the elevation turned all the way down clockwise maxed out, are there any tricks that i am not aware of before to get on target without having the elevation maxed out before i have to invest in a adjustable mount, would going to med height rings help at all.


chet
Burris makes a specialized set of rings to correct the problem of turret "run-out".

Using oblong plastic inserts, you can add up to 40 MOA at 100 yards to any POI axis.

0,+5, +10, +20, -5, -10, -20 inserts positioned within the rings achieve the same as shimming, while maintaining 100% contact between the scope tube and the rings.

Since you're talking springer, I'd say they'd work perfectly since they hold like a vice while still not marring or crushing the tube.

Check them out, they're worth the money in my opinion.

JSD
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Joined: November 9th, 2009, 2:41 pm

November 8th, 2017, 4:20 pm #7

Yes! Medium rings should move the axis of the bore and axis of the scope closer together and reduce the need for vertical clicks. Also, the closer the bore is to the scope, the flatter (generally) the trajectory.
No way can a scope alter what the pellet does.
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Joined: April 15th, 2009, 2:16 am

November 8th, 2017, 5:32 pm #8

i installed a new scope on my sons springer, i used high rings, he would rather medium height, but the problem i have is at 15yds i am still 1 inch high with the elevation turned all the way down clockwise maxed out, are there any tricks that i am not aware of before to get on target without having the elevation maxed out before i have to invest in a adjustable mount, would going to med height rings help at all.


chet
I'm guessing this is a break barrel? If it is a break barrel, has the barrel ever gotten away from you or your son when cocking the gun or has the gun been fired while the barrel was still open? If so, then there's a good chance that the barrel has been bent upwards. Many break barrels suffer from barrel droop which makes them shoot low. But if yours is shooting an inch high at only 15yds with the scope adjustment maxed out then I would check the barrel to see if it's bent.

See if you can lay a straight edge on top of the barrel block and check the gap between the straight edge and barrel. You may need to remove the rear sight (if you haven't already) to do that. If the gap is narrower at the muzzle than it is in front of the barrel block then your barrel is bent up and needs to be straightened.

Jim in SWMO

"You've come far, pilgrim."-------"Feels like far."
"Were it worth the trouble?"-----"Ah, what trouble?"
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Joined: May 6th, 2013, 6:24 pm

November 8th, 2017, 5:42 pm #9

x2. Sounds like a bent barrel to me as well. Easy to check as you pointed out.
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Joined: August 25th, 2014, 5:00 pm

November 8th, 2017, 6:20 pm #10

Actually, the difference between medium and high rings is pretty insignificant when it comes to being able to zero the scope. For a 15 yard zero, it's somewhere in the ballpark of 1 - 2 MoA...so you're looking at 4 to 8 clicks on a typical 1/4MoA turret. Actually closer to the low end of that range if I'm remembering the typical saddle heights correctly.

To deal with the elevation misalignment, you have a few options. Shimming the base of the rings works fine if done in modest amounts. For example, shims cut from a soda can typically measure 0.005" thick. I don't like to use more than 3 layers, 4 tops. However if you are dealing with a springer, shims can be problematic because they make slippage much more likely. So for a springer, I prefer to either give the barrel a slight tweak or use a drooper mount.
since i never done any barrel bending, what are some procedures to attack this. does the barrel need to be removed from the action, if i am on the right track, barrel needs to be bent for a lower impact. is a hydraulic press required.


chet
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