Prob w/ HDD was likely MY FAULT.

Prob w/ HDD was likely MY FAULT.

Joined: July 3rd, 2010, 9:15 pm

September 17th, 2011, 9:50 pm #1

Seems like i had a simple lubrication problem that was causing each successive cocking to get worse;

I polish out the hammer tubes on my guns w/ mothers billet and then i dont lube them,
[per instructions from Daystate on polishing their slingshot, they advise leaving it dry so lube wont attract lead dust to valve stem etc.].

Yesterday, after approximately 200 faultless shots w/ HDD, the cocking pull started getting really hard.

I tried lubing w/ graphite and it got worse. .

I stripped and cleaned whole hammer assembly, and tried it dry, no help.

Tried to lube w/ remington dri lube, [coats w/ teflon] for marginal initial improvement, followed by return to poor form.

Tried again today w/ 3 in 1 oil on striker and bolt channel and it seems to be working smoothly again [fingers crossed].

I think the initial break-in phase w/ HDD caused some wear in the hammer tube,
maybe some shavings/ detritus accumulation in the striker tube messed up the glide, then my graphite gummed it up some more,
and the teflon coating was not up to the job. The 3 in one seems to be working. next time i strip i'll buy and put some moly.

I did not try change the set screw on the HDD, as length/tolerance seemed least likely problem given nobody else has had an issue with it.
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Joined: February 4th, 2006, 8:11 pm

September 17th, 2011, 9:59 pm #2

And iirc 3in1 is bad for the seals.
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Joined: July 3rd, 2010, 9:15 pm

September 17th, 2011, 10:36 pm #3

hence my hesitation to go there, but it was Dave G recommended the moly...

my choice [on hand] was between 3 in 1, Hoppes, WD40 and Tri-flow, which is a petrol based teflon
[as opposed to the Rem dri-lube which is teflon w/ evaporants].
Being old school i went w/ 3 in 1.
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Joined: September 15th, 2000, 3:23 pm

September 17th, 2011, 11:43 pm #4

what seals are in the back end of a pcp that need protecting?

Regards,
DaveG
304-273-0937 after 6pm EST
See more picts @http://davegcustomstocks.com
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Joined: February 1st, 2008, 3:28 am

September 18th, 2011, 12:03 am #5

It was leaking slightly and caused a loss of pressure over several days. I found the leak by immersing the action (w/out scope and stock) in a partially filled bath tub. The valve is completely anodized so I was careful not to cause surface scratches during removal. The replacement o-ring was found at the local hardware store. The new o-ring was lubricated with silicone grease, but I included a dab of turbine oil at one point to make sure the o-ring did not get cut.

The Mrod is really a well thought-out design and extremely easy to disassemble and inspect. I wish my AA S400 was so easy. FWIW, I have had o-ring problems with my S400 which were much more trouble to replace. There are no o-rings (or other elastomers) at the hammer or valve assembly of the Mrod - (edit:) the one o-ring is the seal to the air tube on the opposite end of the valve where the hammer strikes.

Last edited by Springer_177 on September 18th, 2011, 12:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: October 21st, 2001, 3:36 am

September 18th, 2011, 12:08 am #6

hence my hesitation to go there, but it was Dave G recommended the moly...

my choice [on hand] was between 3 in 1, Hoppes, WD40 and Tri-flow, which is a petrol based teflon
[as opposed to the Rem dri-lube which is teflon w/ evaporants].
Being old school i went w/ 3 in 1.
A circle of shooters I been around have used a few drops in the bottom of a tin to lube pellets for years and it never wrecked a weekend, and that was usually the duration of the shoot.

Tri-Flow had been my goto lube for the last few years and I've been happy with the results. I soaked Viton O-rings in it for 3 weeks with no perceptible ill affects.

Last edited by bigbore on September 18th, 2011, 12:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: July 3rd, 2010, 9:15 pm

September 18th, 2011, 12:18 am #7

what seals are in the back end of a pcp that need protecting?

Regards,
DaveG
304-273-0937 after 6pm EST
See more picts @http://davegcustomstocks.com
and from the bolt channel to the probe and the breech o-ring, but as i said earlier it's a hangover from instructions on the daystate strip guide referencing the hammer tube; Mind you the inside of the daystate hammer tube is polished stainless steel, and this Mrod tube is coated w/ something..
Last edited by buzzardslunch on September 18th, 2011, 12:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: May 6th, 2010, 4:26 pm

September 18th, 2011, 12:52 am #8

And iirc 3in1 is bad for the seals.
I am now into mine, and will have to relube my hammer too. Not sure what to use now . . . but I'm thinking a teflon drylube would be the best way to go.
Last edited by AlanMcD on September 18th, 2011, 12:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: May 18th, 2008, 4:53 am

September 18th, 2011, 2:24 am #9



"HAVE GUN WILL TRAVEL"

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Joined: June 25th, 2010, 6:49 pm

September 18th, 2011, 2:48 am #10

Seems like i had a simple lubrication problem that was causing each successive cocking to get worse;

I polish out the hammer tubes on my guns w/ mothers billet and then i dont lube them,
[per instructions from Daystate on polishing their slingshot, they advise leaving it dry so lube wont attract lead dust to valve stem etc.].

Yesterday, after approximately 200 faultless shots w/ HDD, the cocking pull started getting really hard.

I tried lubing w/ graphite and it got worse. .

I stripped and cleaned whole hammer assembly, and tried it dry, no help.

Tried to lube w/ remington dri lube, [coats w/ teflon] for marginal initial improvement, followed by return to poor form.

Tried again today w/ 3 in 1 oil on striker and bolt channel and it seems to be working smoothly again [fingers crossed].

I think the initial break-in phase w/ HDD caused some wear in the hammer tube,
maybe some shavings/ detritus accumulation in the striker tube messed up the glide, then my graphite gummed it up some more,
and the teflon coating was not up to the job. The 3 in one seems to be working. next time i strip i'll buy and put some moly.

I did not try change the set screw on the HDD, as length/tolerance seemed least likely problem given nobody else has had an issue with it.
That's what I use to lube my pellets. No problems yet.

Mark
OneShirt
One Shirt Forge
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