Paintball regulators:

Paintball regulators:

Joined: January 30th, 2005, 11:00 pm

December 14th, 2010, 7:48 pm #1

I took my purpose built QB-79 Starling shooter out for the first time since it got cold. It was 10F outside, and after a few shots I noticed that the regulator that is set to hold 700psi is now at 1000psi. I closed the Rap4 valve and shot down the pressure in the gun, then reopened the valve after cocking the rifle. The pressure jumped up to 700 and then I noticed it was creeping up again. This did not happen when I shot it this fall, in warmer weather, so I am thinking the silicone grease used to assemble it is cold causing the creep. I hope so, I had some work done on my back today and if that goes ok, I can try it out with the regulator warm and see if that is it. I was wondering if Robert or Scott have had this happen.
Bill...
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Joined: November 17th, 2006, 3:51 am

December 14th, 2010, 10:22 pm #2

It climbs from 700 to 1000, but if you left it along for another half hour, would it creep higher?

Had one that would slowly creep, and it looked like it had no intention of stopping until it reached the tank's pressure. Chickened out at 1600PSI and stopped testing before I blew the output burst disk.

Inside at least most paintball regs is a brass piston, o-ringed on the outside, but with a little Delrin type seal at one end. That little Delrin seal on the end of the piston is what is suppose to close off the air tank; if it leaks, then the pressure will just keep creeping up. JDS sells replacement brass pistons for his regs, which is the best way to go.

On the one I had that was at fault, I did mange to get that tiny Delrin seal out, flip it around, and have it seal as it was supose to...predict the chances of being about to do that at about 1:8.

The outside of the brass piston has a couple of o-rings. Even if those leak, the regulator wouldn't "creep". Would give some odd high-low velocity readings as that brass piston wouldn't move in and out predictably, and cleaning/relubing those o-rings helped with the vel. drop off that's common as the tank pressure gets low, but those o-rings wouldn't cause "creep".

If you feel confident enough about taking it apart (EMPTY TANK!), giving it a good/gentle cleaning, chekcing the little seal at the end of the brass piston, and then relubing, may find the problem cured....maybe.
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Joined: January 30th, 2005, 11:00 pm

December 15th, 2010, 12:53 am #3

Robert I did not let it get over 1000psi, I have the JDS regulator and it was set to 700psi and has a blow out on it. I will check it out maybe tomorrow, if I am able, and see if it works ok while warm. If it still leaks through, I will contact JDS and see what he says. This thing has held great for maybe 300 rounds, and only started this when outside in very cold weather. I am hoping it was cold on the grease slowing the closure.
Bill...
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Joined: November 17th, 2006, 3:51 am

December 15th, 2010, 1:25 am #4

Take it off the rifle (can either remove the barrel and unscrew it, or remove the gas block and then unscrew the tank).
two set screws around the regulator body need to be backed out.
Unscrew the regulator.
The pin of the pin valve is a brass part (and a spring) that sits on top of the brass piston inside the regulator...be careful it doesn't fall out and get lost.

Brass piston is surrounded by a bunch of cone washers (that supply tension). Can lift it out as a unit (with the cone washers captured on the brass piston).
Check the little end of the brass piston...has a tiny little delrin seal on it which fits on a raised "tittie" at the bottom of the regulator..this is what seals the tank.

Remove the brass piston and cone washers (will come out as a unit) and clean the inside of the regulator with a Q-tip. Can clean the bras piston as well if it looks "funky"

If that delrin seal on the small end of the brass piston is cut, abraded, or just clogged with crap, it won't seal and the air will leak slowly (causing that "creep"). best choice is a replacement (JDS sells them). It;s such a tiny delrin seal, and kind of roll crimped into place, that replacing it is not really a great option....can be done, but the failure rate for the attempt is pretty damned high.

The piston also has two o-rings (one at the small end and one at the big end). Clean them and lube them LIGHTLY with Silicon grease (and check that they aren't abraded or otherwise screwed up).

Now if you want to spend the extra $, look at paintball supply for a Bob Long filtered fill nipple to replace the one on the HPA tank. Something like $22-$25, but that includes a screw on metal nipple cover. That nipple has a built in filter (think it's a 5 micron filter) which can block most of the grit/funk from getting into the tank (and into the regulator) when filled.
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Have to mention: Have been running 5 HPA tanks for about 2 years, and i shoot the hell out of these guns. Only one tank has given me any trouble. From my fiew point, the 2 year problem rate is about 20%.
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Joined: August 16th, 2006, 10:39 pm

December 15th, 2010, 1:39 am #5

my Jack Haley conversion tube will be here by end of week.....I was wondering could a paintball regulator housing be turned down on the OD and couple of oring grooves added and it be used inside a PCP tube???

Seems like you know the dia of the inner parts and thickness of the housing.
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Joined: November 17th, 2006, 3:51 am

December 15th, 2010, 2:02 am #6

...and don't know what the strength would be once turned down. They measure about 1" even on the outside, and i suspect turning one down to work in a Disco sized tube's internal diameter (something close to .74-.75") might be too much to ask.

(may be wrong..but somehow I remember you as asking about a Discovery in the past...so based my answer on that).

Regulator has to work under the output pressure. Lets say you decide to use 1200K as your output. given a 2K fill for a Discovery, that leaves 800PSi to work with. IF your goal is medium vel., can get a good number of shots with that 800PSi pressure difference. IF your goal is high speed, then you'll have very consitent shots, but not a crap-load of them.
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Of course, you could predict the outcome by filling the PCP to your expected regulator output pressure. Wouldn't last but a couple of shots, but whatever you could tune the rifle to get at that pressure would be what you could expect if regulated to that pressure.
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Joined: October 25th, 2002, 3:46 pm

December 17th, 2010, 7:59 pm #7

my Jack Haley conversion tube will be here by end of week.....I was wondering could a paintball regulator housing be turned down on the OD and couple of oring grooves added and it be used inside a PCP tube???

Seems like you know the dia of the inner parts and thickness of the housing.
nicely made and economical.

A paintball reg is too big and all the ports would need plugging.

Easiest to build one from scratch.
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Joined: October 25th, 2002, 3:46 pm

December 17th, 2010, 8:00 pm #8

Robert I did not let it get over 1000psi, I have the JDS regulator and it was set to 700psi and has a blow out on it. I will check it out maybe tomorrow, if I am able, and see if it works ok while warm. If it still leaks through, I will contact JDS and see what he says. This thing has held great for maybe 300 rounds, and only started this when outside in very cold weather. I am hoping it was cold on the grease slowing the closure.
Bill...
there is no way it can creep if the seat and seals are 100%

Walter....
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