Need Bedliner Stock Finishing Tips

Need Bedliner Stock Finishing Tips

Joined: May 18th, 2012, 10:50 pm

July 14th, 2017, 9:37 pm #1

My 3-decade old RWS 48 stock did not look presentable. I decided to take off the old finish with sandpaper but the sandpaper would not "bite" the wood. I scraped the finish with a knife blade.
Now I am ready to use bedliner on the stock. I read here in the Yellows to rough the wood with 100 or 120 sandpaper. As I mentioned earlier, the sandpaper just keeps sliding on the the wood and making surface slicker. I also read here to tape the inletted area with tape. I have seen some finished stock photos here that appear to show the bedliner finish blending where the wood meets the metal.
Please enlighten me on these two points. Thanks
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Joined: November 12th, 2005, 2:00 am

July 14th, 2017, 10:58 pm #2

I have been using Rustoleum bedliner rattle cans for years, on truck bumpers and on rifle stocks.

I rough it up with 80, 100, 120 grit, I then apply two light primer coats, using the rougher
steel wool between coats, and then I use Rustoleum, but I use the trigger adapter and hold it
upside-down and spray several very light coats. I let the coats dry a bit, so that the liner
doesn't run.

Do be sure to use a decent masking tape, one that adheres to curves well, and plan to spend a fair
amount of the project time ensuring that the masking tape is cut and applied exactly where you
don't want anything to get. Fill large voids with crumbled newspapers or aluminum foil and
use that to support the masking tape in odd areas of the stock.

I have used rough textured/pebble coats, like the rough sprays that you can spray on lamps and
other items to give them a rough, course texture, and then bed-lined over that.
The effect is decent, and once even matched a McMillan A3 stock grip texture.

Try doing this to a 2x4 to practice. If it works, you will be better on your gun and you will have
the nicest 2x4 on your block.

Good luck.
Jim
Last edited by PalmBeachSniper333 on July 14th, 2017, 10:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: July 13th, 2009, 2:26 am

July 15th, 2017, 2:10 am #3

First...there is a new version of the Rustoleum bedliner out. I think it's called "Delux" or something like that. You will know it by it's price tag...it's almost double the cost of the regular Rustoleum bedliner. It's much thicker than the original.

Stand back at least 12-14" when spraying, and don't hold the can still. Keep it moving and don't go slow. Start spraying the air in front of the end of the stock and move the spray across the stock in a steady movement. Don't stop or slow down until you are spraying the air on the other side of the stock.

Several light coats are better than one heavy coat. This takes patience! However, each coat dries rather quickly. You can re-spray in about twenty to thirty minutes. This doesn't mean the first coats are fully dry, it just won't create "runs" when you re-spray.

When you have achieved the desired look or texture, let the stock dry for at least a couple of days before any heavy handling. Full hardening/curing of the bedliner can take a week or more. The finish can be "soft" for several days after spraying.

Don't leave the masking tape on too long after spraying. If the bedliner dries too hard, it will adhere to the tape and peel off the stock when the tape is removed. Thus, the practice with the above mentioned 2X4 board. Further, an Exacto knife, or razor blade, can be run along the masking tape edges to ensure no stock peeling takes place when the tape is removed.

Patience and attention to masking detail is required. This isn't an afternoon job, start to finish! Take your time, it pays big dividends.
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Joined: November 28th, 2010, 2:13 pm

July 15th, 2017, 1:56 pm #4

My 3-decade old RWS 48 stock did not look presentable. I decided to take off the old finish with sandpaper but the sandpaper would not "bite" the wood. I scraped the finish with a knife blade.
Now I am ready to use bedliner on the stock. I read here in the Yellows to rough the wood with 100 or 120 sandpaper. As I mentioned earlier, the sandpaper just keeps sliding on the the wood and making surface slicker. I also read here to tape the inletted area with tape. I have seen some finished stock photos here that appear to show the bedliner finish blending where the wood meets the metal.
Please enlighten me on these two points. Thanks
I've had excellent results with Dupli-Color truck bed coating. Bought it in an auto parts store for about ten bucks a can. I refinished a Gen 1 Mrod stock. Other than sanding, I didn't do any unusual prep. It's easy to do, and if you screw up an area, you can re-spray it and it blends in so nicely that you won't see any misteaks (LOL).
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Joined: November 26th, 2012, 8:23 am

July 15th, 2017, 3:33 pm #5

My 3-decade old RWS 48 stock did not look presentable. I decided to take off the old finish with sandpaper but the sandpaper would not "bite" the wood. I scraped the finish with a knife blade.
Now I am ready to use bedliner on the stock. I read here in the Yellows to rough the wood with 100 or 120 sandpaper. As I mentioned earlier, the sandpaper just keeps sliding on the the wood and making surface slicker. I also read here to tape the inletted area with tape. I have seen some finished stock photos here that appear to show the bedliner finish blending where the wood meets the metal.
Please enlighten me on these two points. Thanks
http://www.network54.com/Forum/113813/m ... est+person
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Joined: June 9th, 2016, 11:17 pm

July 15th, 2017, 4:30 pm #6

My 3-decade old RWS 48 stock did not look presentable. I decided to take off the old finish with sandpaper but the sandpaper would not "bite" the wood. I scraped the finish with a knife blade.
Now I am ready to use bedliner on the stock. I read here in the Yellows to rough the wood with 100 or 120 sandpaper. As I mentioned earlier, the sandpaper just keeps sliding on the the wood and making surface slicker. I also read here to tape the inletted area with tape. I have seen some finished stock photos here that appear to show the bedliner finish blending where the wood meets the metal.
Please enlighten me on these two points. Thanks
I know you are committed to bedliner. But just to mention it, some of these stocks are walnut. Some aren't but it can be nicely grained and figured beech that's better looking than 'ordinary' beech. The old finish might take a chemical stripper to remove but it would be a shame to bedliner a nice piece of lumber.
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Joined: February 1st, 2014, 12:51 pm

July 16th, 2017, 12:28 am #7

I've bleached some overly dark wood and had nice grain appear. nt
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