Krytox on pellets or in the bore?

Krytox on pellets or in the bore?

Joined: January 5th, 2012, 9:45 am

April 16th, 2017, 1:57 pm #1

Not Krytech. Seems like it would do a good job of keeping cleanings to minimum frequency and effort but it's unaffected by solvents so there would be no turning back if pulled on a patch. Anyone tried it?
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Joined: June 10th, 2014, 6:26 pm

April 17th, 2017, 12:37 am #2

remove with several cleaners. I use it in spring guns and have used Acetone and even WD-40 to clean part. Never heard it was unaffected by solvents. Have used several variation of Krytox and they were easily cleaned off parts. Some guns love lube and some won't shoot worth a cr@## with lube. Don
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Joined: October 28th, 2003, 3:53 pm

April 17th, 2017, 1:40 am #3

I'm told that when lubricating metal parts with Krytox, there's a special solvent wash required to completely clean the metal of petroleum products. Without it, the Krytox never really bonds to the metal.

What does it mean for airgunning? I dunno but Krytox is too rich me to use as a consumable.
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Joined: October 18th, 2016, 3:54 am

April 17th, 2017, 4:06 am #4

Not Krytech. Seems like it would do a good job of keeping cleanings to minimum frequency and effort but it's unaffected by solvents so there would be no turning back if pulled on a patch. Anyone tried it?
It seems like massive overkill. Pellets and barrels don't need much lubrication from a wear standpoint, it's mostly to prevent corrosion and keep the leading and other crud transfer to a minimum and keep what does transfer easily removed. Krtytox sticks to metals, stays there, and has good high load and high temperature characteristics for long term and heavy bearing loads, which is why it is great for springers. Assuming you lube every pellet, the barrel is getting lubed with every shot. To the extent it needs it, the lube is getting replaced with every shot. So, in theory, the cheapest plain ol' lubricating oil will do the job just fine. Heck, lead itself has decent lubricating properties, which is probably why lubing pellets is not a necessity.
Last edited by TwiceHorn on April 17th, 2017, 4:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: January 5th, 2012, 9:45 am

April 17th, 2017, 6:50 am #5

Not Krytech. Seems like it would do a good job of keeping cleanings to minimum frequency and effort but it's unaffected by solvents so there would be no turning back if pulled on a patch. Anyone tried it?
I could swear it says in the description on the product page that it's very resistant to solvents but whatever, not enough time to look just now. Hopefully someone has tried it in the bore, I'm really curious to know if it cut down on needing cleaning.

I did just wash some CPHP and gave them a nice film of Krytech, actually White Lighting brand but same thing. My Benji Summit loves the cheapies, never shot at 50 yards for a group until today but 3 shots covered by a dime is nothing to complain about so now I'll see how dirty the barrel is after this tin is up
Last edited by Domer_Pyle on April 17th, 2017, 6:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: July 9th, 2015, 1:00 pm

April 17th, 2017, 1:01 pm #6

Not Krytech. Seems like it would do a good job of keeping cleanings to minimum frequency and effort but it's unaffected by solvents so there would be no turning back if pulled on a patch. Anyone tried it?
is already lubed with Slick50 One Lube from the aerosol can. I've been using OneLube for a couple decades and I'm still using from the same can I bought years ago when the can cost $3.29 at an ACE hardware store.

The OneLube stuff does work well for reducing "CPL barrel fouling issues" with careful application but it does diesel if it gets into the pellet skirt.

Since so little Krytox would be used for lubing a box of CPLs (about 3 drops spread thinly inside the container) that a 1oz bottle costing about $30 would go a LONG way! The only purpose of lubing CPLs is to get a film of lube on the pellet rifling surfaces so "charging" the pellet lubing container once would be good for several boxes of CPLs. For pellets with a more "pure lead alloy" (like the JSB,H&N etc) I really don't know if I'd even mess with lubing at all. Even with the hard lead CPLs the only benefit I found with lubing was that barrel cleaning chores were reduced and when cleaning was required I only needed to pull through a few patches with my CrownSaver.

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Joined: January 5th, 2012, 9:45 am

April 18th, 2017, 5:11 am #7

Not Krytech. Seems like it would do a good job of keeping cleanings to minimum frequency and effort but it's unaffected by solvents so there would be no turning back if pulled on a patch. Anyone tried it?
http://store.tmcindustries.com/PFPE-Cle ... _c_37.html

Unaffected by organic solvents, the cleaner they sell to remove Krytox is $85 for a 3 pound bottle
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Joined: July 9th, 2015, 1:00 pm

April 18th, 2017, 12:20 pm #8

It seems like massive overkill. Pellets and barrels don't need much lubrication from a wear standpoint, it's mostly to prevent corrosion and keep the leading and other crud transfer to a minimum and keep what does transfer easily removed. Krtytox sticks to metals, stays there, and has good high load and high temperature characteristics for long term and heavy bearing loads, which is why it is great for springers. Assuming you lube every pellet, the barrel is getting lubed with every shot. To the extent it needs it, the lube is getting replaced with every shot. So, in theory, the cheapest plain ol' lubricating oil will do the job just fine. Heck, lead itself has decent lubricating properties, which is probably why lubing pellets is not a necessity.
Yes, "in theory", however dieseling lubes and pellet corrosion can be an issue. When I started lubing hard lead CPLs a couple decades ago for my .177 R9 to reduce the CPL lead fouling I used FP10 which worked just fine, however CPLs lubed with the stuff and then stored in a leather pellet pouch for a while developed a kinda gummy coating that actually fouled the bore quicker than shooting CPLs dry. The next lube I tried was Slick50 OneLube from the aerosol can and I've been using this stuff ever since without the "goopy surface feel" of the FP10.

"lead itself has decent lubricating properties, which is probably why lubing pellets is not a necessity."
I do agree if the pellets are "pure lead", however the alloy of some pellets (Crosman come to mind) do tend to create "fouling issues" that is improved with some lube on the rifling surfaces of the pellet. I have read of some shooters that claim to successfully shoot unlubed pellets without ever cleaning their bores. I'm not one of those so my HW bores get some pulled patches about every box of CPLs. Here's an example.........

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Joined: October 18th, 2016, 3:54 am

April 18th, 2017, 1:57 pm #9

Good point on the various alloys and their lubricating/leading properties. Most seem to attribute Crosman's leading/fouling/crudding problem to the residue that always seems present on their pellets, but that doesn't mean they're right. I shoot them in my 397 because they're relatively cheap and shoot well, but more "premium" pellets in my HW97.

I had a tin of HNFTT get cruddy from blown stuff (leaves, grass, grit) at the FT range (also some got tumped into my caddy, I guess I need a pellet pouch). So I washed and lubed them with plain ol mineral oil USP. I didn't consider dieseling, but haven't had any or any drop off in accuracy. I put four drops of it on the JSB sponge and rattled them around gently in the tin.

And, yeah Crosman's alloy seems pretty hard, which may account for generating all that dust/residue during manufacturing. My HNs seem significantly harder than the JSBs, perhaps that is a function of skirt thickness?
Last edited by TwiceHorn on April 18th, 2017, 2:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: July 9th, 2015, 1:00 pm

April 18th, 2017, 6:18 pm #10

http://store.tmcindustries.com/PFPE-Cle ... _c_37.html

Unaffected by organic solvents, the cleaner they sell to remove Krytox is $85 for a 3 pound bottle
really have little to do with the use in piston guns IMHO. Here are a few FAQs..........
http://www.tri-statetech.com/krytox-fre ... tions.html
https://www.chemours.com/Lubricants/en_ ... /FAQs.html

A couple examples.........
1. Every trace of "dinosaur grease" needs to be removed because it doesn't mix with Krytox.
"The performance of the grease mixture will be limited by the properties of the non-PFPE grease in the mixture. Krytox™ grease will not react with the other grease or cause decomposition or any hazardous reactions"
and
"Before adding Krytox™ grease to a bearing, the bearing should be cleaned of all existing greases, oils, or preservative oils used during storage. If hydrocarbon oils are left in a bearing, the oils can form carbon deposits at high temperatures, which may accelerate bearing failure.
and
"The Krytox™ grease will not stop the other lubricant from breaking down from heat and oxidation. It is likely that the additives in the hydrocarbon grease have coated the bearing surfaces and the Krytox™ grease will not be able to adhere to the bearing, so most of it might get thrown out of the bearing."

IMHO, the mixing of Krytox and "dinosaur grease" can have a negative effect on industrial bearings however I've found that simply stripping the "petro lubes" from parts with Brake or carb cleaner has been sufficient for relubing with Krytox in my springers.

Another criticism of Krytox is that it can decompose into potentially hazardous compounds if over heated to 572F..........
http://www.idealvac.com/files/MSDS/Kryt ... e_MSDS.pdf
"SECTION 2.
HAZARDS IDENTIFICATION
Emergency Overview
The product as such is not hazardous. The thermal decomposition vapours of fluorinated polymers may cause polymer fume fever with flu-like symptoms in humans, especially when smoking contaminated tobacco.
Potential Health Effects
Eyes: May cause eye irritation.
Carcinogenicity: None of the components present in this material at concentrations equal to or greater than 0.1% are listed by IARC, NTP, or OSHA, as a carcinogen."

My comments to this.........
*If I smoked I certainly wouldn't smear it on a cigarette before lighting!
*Since I don't smoke I still don't make it a habit to sniff my muzzle after each shot so I don't get "flu-like symptoms in humans"!
*"May cause eye irritation", yep, does cause the eyes to itch for a while if there is some Krytox residue on the fingers when rubbing the eyes! Not a biggie but annoying in the least so I take care to "Wash off with soap and plenty of water" as instructed after use.
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