Did some valve work on the XS60...

Did some valve work on the XS60...

Joined: August 20th, 2006, 5:36 am

February 21st, 2012, 4:27 pm #1

Using the methods suggested by Scot. I'm still losing gas somewhere, but the valve mod really slowed it down, which is a big part of why I did what I did .

When I had it torn down the first time, I noticed that the "ridge" in the valve seat area looked bad, wide and sloppy, with no sharp edge to seal to like my QB has. The issues with the valve head are well known, although I'm thinking the only reason it sealed at all is that it's so soft.

Anyway, chucked the valve in the lathe and a 7/16" end mill in the tailstock chuck and no more ridge. Then to the mill, widened and deepened the slots in the side of the valve, as well as slotting the steel sleeve, no limits on gas flow, now! Also made a new valve stem/head, from nylon, again following Scot's recipe.

Put it all back together, turned the striker preload all the way back down, and loaded a couple of carts and took a few shots. It FEELS like it's hitting harder, but with a busted chrony, it'll be Thursday before I can tell for sure. Got a new main unit coming from CED, it shipped out yesterday, and I spent the extra for 3 day shipping.

Like I said, I'm still losing gas somewhere, but the loss has been cut in half or less. Originally, 2 carts wouldn't last more than 2 hours, improved that by resealing the valve, then it would go overnight, but wouldn't make it through the day. Now, I charged it up Sunday, took a few shots, it was still holding yesterday morning and evening, but was empty this morning. I can't HEAR gas leaking anywhere, guess it's time to get out the soapy water and start looking for bubbles .

As usual, I didn't take any pics, but will try to get some posted the next time I take it all apart, which will probably be fairly soon . Once the new chrony arrives, if this works as well as I think it did, I'll be doing the same mod to my QB valve. Considering this is my first attempt at making a new valve stem, I'm pleased with how it came out and how it seems to be working. Now I need to experiment with some different head material, I have 2 kinds of nylon on hand, as well as Delrin and Teflon. Any suggestions which works best for both CO2 and air? Thanks.

Dave
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Joined: March 28th, 2002, 6:54 pm

February 23rd, 2012, 4:18 am #2

nt
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Joined: August 20th, 2006, 5:36 am

February 23rd, 2012, 5:37 am #3

I know I came late to the XS60 party, but I'm enjoying it. The new unit should be here tomorrow, and I've exercised extreme restraint by NOT taking anything apart again until I test the current iteration . The more I work with it and think about it, though, the more I think it will stay a CO2 gun, and probably a cartridge gun. But I still want to twist it's tail as hard as I can, first ! Later.

Dave
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Joined: August 20th, 2006, 5:36 am

February 24th, 2012, 6:42 am #4

Using the methods suggested by Scot. I'm still losing gas somewhere, but the valve mod really slowed it down, which is a big part of why I did what I did .

When I had it torn down the first time, I noticed that the "ridge" in the valve seat area looked bad, wide and sloppy, with no sharp edge to seal to like my QB has. The issues with the valve head are well known, although I'm thinking the only reason it sealed at all is that it's so soft.

Anyway, chucked the valve in the lathe and a 7/16" end mill in the tailstock chuck and no more ridge. Then to the mill, widened and deepened the slots in the side of the valve, as well as slotting the steel sleeve, no limits on gas flow, now! Also made a new valve stem/head, from nylon, again following Scot's recipe.

Put it all back together, turned the striker preload all the way back down, and loaded a couple of carts and took a few shots. It FEELS like it's hitting harder, but with a busted chrony, it'll be Thursday before I can tell for sure. Got a new main unit coming from CED, it shipped out yesterday, and I spent the extra for 3 day shipping.

Like I said, I'm still losing gas somewhere, but the loss has been cut in half or less. Originally, 2 carts wouldn't last more than 2 hours, improved that by resealing the valve, then it would go overnight, but wouldn't make it through the day. Now, I charged it up Sunday, took a few shots, it was still holding yesterday morning and evening, but was empty this morning. I can't HEAR gas leaking anywhere, guess it's time to get out the soapy water and start looking for bubbles .

As usual, I didn't take any pics, but will try to get some posted the next time I take it all apart, which will probably be fairly soon . Once the new chrony arrives, if this works as well as I think it did, I'll be doing the same mod to my QB valve. Considering this is my first attempt at making a new valve stem, I'm pleased with how it came out and how it seems to be working. Now I need to experiment with some different head material, I have 2 kinds of nylon on hand, as well as Delrin and Teflon. Any suggestions which works best for both CO2 and air? Thanks.

Dave
Still need to figure some things out, but I'm on the right track. Here's what I've got so far.

[/IMG]

It seems to prefer lighter pellets, not sure what's up with that, I'm getting very different results with my HPA QB, but that info will be in its own post . I left it out of the notes, but all of these were shot with the hammer preload at minimum, although at this rate, if I do turn it up, I'll be lucky to get 10 shots on a pair of CO2 cartridges! Anyone got any ideas on that? Later.

Dave
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Joined: January 31st, 2011, 7:14 pm

February 25th, 2012, 12:20 am #5

Mr. Dave, have you looked at the bulk fill that come with the Xs60 it may have a leak. when I received my 60c it seemed to leak air from around it, so I order a seal kit form Mr. Mike and resealed the whole Ag. In my 60c the bulk fill unit would dump two CO2 cartridges just as fast if I didn't real put a good tight on it. You my want to look into these as a problem.
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Joined: March 28th, 2002, 6:54 pm

February 25th, 2012, 1:39 am #6

Still need to figure some things out, but I'm on the right track. Here's what I've got so far.

[/IMG]

It seems to prefer lighter pellets, not sure what's up with that, I'm getting very different results with my HPA QB, but that info will be in its own post . I left it out of the notes, but all of these were shot with the hammer preload at minimum, although at this rate, if I do turn it up, I'll be lucky to get 10 shots on a pair of CO2 cartridges! Anyone got any ideas on that? Later.

Dave
A much lighter striker should help that, and let you add some preload to up the power, without excessive gas use.
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Joined: August 20th, 2006, 5:36 am

February 25th, 2012, 4:01 am #7

Although it's definitely leaking, too, just don't know where, and haven't taken the time to check all the possibilities. I'm still getting blow-by at the front of the trigger guard when shooting it, which I seem to recall someone attributed to NO transfer port seal. Still trying to come up with a way to fix that, but so far, no brilliant solution has come to me . I think I need to tear it down to just the receiver, valve, air tube and cap, charge it up and dunk it in the bath tub. Probably better to fill it with air, then I don't need the hammer to pierce cartridges. Guess it's time to order a Foster fitting for the bulk fill valve. Later.

Dave
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Joined: September 21st, 2007, 12:13 pm

February 25th, 2012, 1:37 pm #8

the valve you did not shorten the stem the like amount that you plunged the end mill into the seat, you will be short stroking your striker hit. I find that the QB valves work best for me if I cut the stem shaft about .030" shorter than OEM.
Also, the best way to fix that TP leakage is to add an O ring groove on the other side of the valve port.
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Joined: August 20th, 2006, 5:36 am

February 25th, 2012, 4:31 pm #9

And no, I didn't shorten the valve stem a corresponding amount. I figured the potential power loss would be pretty minimal, and I can always shorten it later.

My bigger concern now is gas leakage. But I don't understand your suggestion of adding an oring groove "on the other side of the valve port". The XS60 has a solid aluminum receiver with a bore for the bolt and barrel, and another one below it for the valve and striker. The transfer port is just a hole through the web between those two bores. Since the barrel and valve both slide into their respective bores, there's no good way I can see to add an oring that will be effective and stay put in the process of assembling everything. Am I missing something, or are you thinking this is a QB? Thanks.

Dave
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Joined: September 21st, 2007, 12:13 pm

February 25th, 2012, 6:20 pm #10

needs to be cut into the main brass part of the valve. The o ring that seals the incoming side of the valve takes care of any leakage on that side of the port hole, you have to add a groove on the other side of the port hole. That will take care of the momentary blast leakage that you get when you shoot the gun.
Your gun is shooting way too slow, shortening the striker stroke can steal quite a bit of power, also I saw a post somewhere that stated that the T port leakage costs 50fps.
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