CP1 Pistol Trigger Pull

CP1 Pistol Trigger Pull

Joined: December 3rd, 2013, 7:53 am

April 29th, 2017, 2:52 pm #1

My CP1 Co2 Pistol has a 2.5lb trigger pull and I would like to try to get it closer to 1.5 to 1 lb. I’ve done some light polishing of the trigger and sear contact points, reduced the travel and lubed it, but can’t seem to find any posts on reducing the trigger pull weight. From what I can see the primary way would be to cut a little off the sear spring. Anyone have experience with this? Is it possible to get it down to 1.5 lbs and still function and be safe? I posted this question on another forum but haven't received a response yet and I'm kind of anxious to get it fixed.

Thanks for the help, Shelleen
Last edited by Kid.Shelleen on April 29th, 2017, 3:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: May 12th, 2001, 1:29 pm

April 29th, 2017, 4:27 pm #2

...as having a trigger adjustable down to 8oz.?

Trigger Adjustable, 0.5-4 LBf
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Joined: December 3rd, 2013, 7:53 am

April 29th, 2017, 5:03 pm #3

Yes, I got it from MRod Air. The receiver is marked AIRMAX MRodAir Target Master .177 The accuracy is OK but the trigger pull was long and on the heavy side. I cleaned up the contact points on the sear and trigger and reduce the pull length by putting a spacer through the center pin that contacts the sear. There is a single grub screw that goes through the upper part of the trigger that contacts the sear but it is "frozen" in place and I don't want to take the chance of stripping the allen head out because it is very small. It looks like the grub screw only adjusts the length of pull so wouldn't help much to help reduce the weight of the pull which is now at about 2.5 lbs. From what I can see, reducing the length of the sear spring is about the only easy way of reducing the trigger pull weight. I was hoping someone else had this experience and successfully reduced the pull by shorting the sear spring a little. I'm reluctant to cut the spring since I don't have a replacement but if others have done it successfully, I'll give it a try.

Thanks, Shelleen
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Joined: June 9th, 2016, 11:17 pm

April 29th, 2017, 7:10 pm #4

...as having a trigger adjustable down to 8oz.?

Trigger Adjustable, 0.5-4 LBf
The trigger/sear adjustment does more for reducing pretravel than it does for making the pull lighter. If the screw is adjusted to bear against the small cross pin and not against the sear, this will move the trigger rearward in the trigger guard. This helps because the guard is small/cramped to me, YMMV.

But to the point- use a lighter spring (I found one in my spares, lord only knows what it came from) and polish the mating surfaces. I have a safe, reliable trigger at 15 ounces that passes drop test. Some info here.

You will still have a ton of overtravel but that can be fixed if you install an adjustment for it.

ETA Trigger pull weight progression:

Mrodair CP-1M, as delivered, lube and pretravel adjustment only- 2lb 2oz
Lighter sear spring added- 1lb 4oz
Polished mating surfaces, same lighter spring- 15 oz










Last edited by cobalt327 on April 29th, 2017, 8:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: December 3rd, 2013, 7:53 am

April 29th, 2017, 10:49 pm #5

Thanks for the information Cobalt. Your article "Inside the MRod CP1" was great and the photography was excellent. My CP1 arrived with a heavy trigger pull over 3 lbs and very long travel. As I mentioned, the grub screw on my CP1 was locked up solid. I'll try heating it up with a soldering iron and have another go at it when I have more time. Since I couldn't turn the grub screw, I put a small "roller Bearing" through the pin that the trigger sits on, which is similar to screwing the grub screw down further on that pin (Like they used to do with the awful triggers on the Benjamin Trail break barrel rifles. It significantly reduce the long travel of the trigger. It also moved the trigger back a little so there was more room in the trigger guard for my finger, just like you mentioned in your article.

I can't find a spring the correct size in my junk boxes so I'll try to find one at the hardware store tomorrow. If I can't find one that will work, I may try cutting a coil or two off the factory spring. If I can get my trigger down to around 1 to 1.5 lbs I'll be a happy camper.

Thanks again Cobalt for the information. I liked your article so much I saved it for future reference and sent a copy to my son who may be getting a CP1.

Cheers, Shelleen



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Joined: June 9th, 2016, 11:17 pm

April 29th, 2017, 11:23 pm #6

I like that 'roller' you used, no reason it wouldn't perform well.

The trigger set screw is doused w/RED Loctite and that's why you're having a tough time removing it. I should have mentioned it in my original post. So it definitely will take heat- mine did- and I used the exact same method you mentioned, a soldering gun in my case. In fact, if you look closely you can see a small spot of solder (circled below) that adhered during the heating of the set screw and trigger! Next time I have it apart I might remove it. Or not. ha

I have the grip off now, I don't like how it feels. Also have some stain coming. Hopefully I can whittle it down into something that feels better to me.

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Joined: December 3rd, 2013, 7:53 am

April 30th, 2017, 2:13 am #7

I agree about the grips and am thinking about doing a little cutting and sanding but that will have to wait awhile until I get some more time. The first thing is to get a new sear spring then get that grub screw freed. I also want to polish everything up real good like you did. The grips will have to wait for last. I think a lot of us would be interested in seeing how your grips turn out. I hope you post photos of it.

I’m thinking something like this except less defined finger grooves then sanded down and stained a darker color like Walnut. Maybe cut some checkering before staining.


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Joined: June 9th, 2016, 11:17 pm

April 30th, 2017, 3:53 pm #8

I've found only a few photos of modified grips online. I'm going to take a lot of wood from the rear of the grip to 'stand up' the profile as much as possible- I just find the broken-wrist hold of the factory grip VERY unnatural. In the photo below you can just make out the lines from a pattern I made from a Ruger Mark .22. The Ruger has about the most laid-back angle of any grips I have, and like. So I figured patterning the angle to the Ruger grips might make the CP-1M more comfortable. I expect to do a LOT of trial fitting before I'm done but I believe it will be well worth it.



Here's one a fellow did down below this post:



This is from GTA:



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Joined: November 26th, 2012, 8:23 am

April 30th, 2017, 6:52 pm #9

I agree about the grips and am thinking about doing a little cutting and sanding but that will have to wait awhile until I get some more time. The first thing is to get a new sear spring then get that grub screw freed. I also want to polish everything up real good like you did. The grips will have to wait for last. I think a lot of us would be interested in seeing how your grips turn out. I hope you post photos of it.

I’m thinking something like this except less defined finger grooves then sanded down and stained a darker color like Walnut. Maybe cut some checkering before staining.


I've got them stripped down right now to add a thumb rest and modify the palm rest a bit.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/me ... +guard+was
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Joined: December 3rd, 2013, 7:53 am

May 3rd, 2017, 2:47 am #10

I agree about the grips and am thinking about doing a little cutting and sanding but that will have to wait awhile until I get some more time. The first thing is to get a new sear spring then get that grub screw freed. I also want to polish everything up real good like you did. The grips will have to wait for last. I think a lot of us would be interested in seeing how your grips turn out. I hope you post photos of it.

I’m thinking something like this except less defined finger grooves then sanded down and stained a darker color like Walnut. Maybe cut some checkering before staining.


Thanks for the two grip ideas Cobalt. I'm still looking forward to seeing what you do with yours. John, I'm also thinking of doing something similar to what you did. I was thinking of whittling my grips down similar to the first example I posted but since there is hardly any grain on the wood, I was thinking of using some textured paint that would give it a little grip. I also like Cobalt's idea af reshaping it to change the angle a little. I'm more comfortable with a less severe angle that put the barrel closer in line with the radial bone of my forearm.
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