Anyone ever remove a HW barrrel from the breech block?

Anyone ever remove a HW barrrel from the breech block?

Joined: July 11th, 2001, 7:44 pm

June 20th, 2007, 11:26 am #1

<P>I have another standard length .177 R1 barrel that I planed to chop and choke but I was thinking that if the barrel could be removed from the breech block with my 12 ton press,&nbsp;shorten the&nbsp;"breech end", re-press it back into the breech block and rechamfer the breech end of the barrel.......the factory choke and sight grooves could be preserved.</P>
<P>In the past I've gotten feedback on a leade vs chamfer for the breech but I've never gotten any info from those that have actually "demounted" & "remounted" a HW barrel&nbsp;in the breech block.</P>
<P>Still.....it does seem that just squishing the muzzle with the clamp would be easier, also the next time I make a "clamp" I think I'll only hacksaw one side&nbsp;rather than splitting the clamp.&nbsp;</P>
Last edited by wved on June 20th, 2007, 11:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: May 9th, 2001, 6:44 pm

June 20th, 2007, 4:06 pm #2

And either posted a picture or i have seen one apart somewhere. Seem to remember the barrel is roughly knurled as can be seen looking around the outside of the breach seal on most HW barrels. It might even be slightly smaller diam. where it inserted into the breach block but i'm not sure about this.

You know there is a cross pin about 5mm diam. thru the breach block that has to be pressed or drilled out? Look close you'll see traces of it's outline on the side of some HW breach blocks. It's about .320" behind the barrel pivot hole, above and slightly behind the roll pin bore that retains the spring loaded chisel detent.

The pin runs under the barrel and thru a quarter or half round milled slot in the bottom of the barrel to lock it in place.

HW blends the surfaces together well before bluing much like some of the older R1's where the line between the end cap and the receiver tube is hardly discernable.

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Joined: July 11th, 2001, 7:44 pm

June 20th, 2007, 5:00 pm #3

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lhd
Joined: January 9th, 2002, 2:30 am

June 20th, 2007, 7:44 pm #4

<P>I have another standard length .177 R1 barrel that I planed to chop and choke but I was thinking that if the barrel could be removed from the breech block with my 12 ton press,&nbsp;shorten the&nbsp;"breech end", re-press it back into the breech block and rechamfer the breech end of the barrel.......the factory choke and sight grooves could be preserved.</P>
<P>In the past I've gotten feedback on a leade vs chamfer for the breech but I've never gotten any info from those that have actually "demounted" & "remounted" a HW barrel&nbsp;in the breech block.</P>
<P>Still.....it does seem that just squishing the muzzle with the clamp would be easier, also the next time I make a "clamp" I think I'll only hacksaw one side&nbsp;rather than splitting the clamp.&nbsp;</P>
But it ruined the block in the process. In those days, I did things like that in order to fit a known good barrel into a different gun, nowadays i know its easier to start with a decent new barrel and play with it a bit if it doesnt shoot to my satisfaction.
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Joined: July 11th, 2001, 7:44 pm

June 21st, 2007, 9:28 am #5

It does seem that choppin' & chokin (even with the two piece clamp) will be better than trying to remove the barrel from the breech block. I had thought of heating the breech block for pressing the barrel out but then, even if it worked, there would be the refinishing issue 'cause of the discolored bluing. Thanks for the feedback!
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lhd
Joined: January 9th, 2002, 2:30 am

June 21st, 2007, 6:20 pm #6

Even with no choke, most can shoot decent with the right pellets. First, the barrel can be selectively lapped a little from the rear to loosen the tight area near the breechblock by pushing three or four of the big Dae Sung Korean pellets that are well-charged with JB borepaste back and forth (trapped between two rods) ... swell em a bit once in awhile by giving the front rod a whack while supporting the rear one. Make sure to use rods with a good fit, such as at least .170"-.175 for the .177 cal and at least .210".215"- for the .22 cal to avoid the rod flexing too much. Make sure to not get paste on the rods, keep them clean. Never push the charged pellets out the muzzle.

Lap the crown with a roundhead brass woodscrew charged with JB ... don't spin it too fast and don't use heavy pressure ,,, the right amount of lapping is when all the rifling is chamfered evenly and theres is at least a .005" or so chamfer beyond up into the face. A nice trick I learned from Russ Best yrs ago is to check for burrs with a Q-tip by pushing it slowly in and retractinng it while inspecting with high magnification .... burrs will make some fibers hang up and you can see em sticking. Clean the barrel really well from the rear and then slowly push pellets from the breech thru the muzzle .... they should'nt hang up or try to pop to one side on the corner of the crown, as this also indicates a burr.

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Joined: July 11th, 2001, 7:44 pm

June 21st, 2007, 11:39 pm #7

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Joined: September 18th, 2004, 10:48 am

June 23rd, 2007, 11:38 am #8

<P>I have another standard length .177 R1 barrel that I planed to chop and choke but I was thinking that if the barrel could be removed from the breech block with my 12 ton press,&nbsp;shorten the&nbsp;"breech end", re-press it back into the breech block and rechamfer the breech end of the barrel.......the factory choke and sight grooves could be preserved.</P>
<P>In the past I've gotten feedback on a leade vs chamfer for the breech but I've never gotten any info from those that have actually "demounted" & "remounted" a HW barrel&nbsp;in the breech block.</P>
<P>Still.....it does seem that just squishing the muzzle with the clamp would be easier, also the next time I make a "clamp" I think I'll only hacksaw one side&nbsp;rather than splitting the clamp.&nbsp;</P>
Ed I've tried to remove a barrel from a breech block with little luck.Their tighter than a bulls $ss at fly time.If I were trying again I would chuck the barrel in the lathe remove pin and bore it out.It should be removable before you bore through to the block.
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Joined: July 11th, 2001, 7:44 pm

June 24th, 2007, 11:57 am #9

the way Russ Best removes cocking linkage pins so the hole they're pressed in doesn't get enlarged. I do have a "sacrificial barrel" that would be a good candidate.
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Joined: October 21st, 2000, 9:30 pm

June 30th, 2007, 12:00 am #10

Ed I've tried to remove a barrel from a breech block with little luck.Their tighter than a bulls $ss at fly time.If I were trying again I would chuck the barrel in the lathe remove pin and bore it out.It should be removable before you bore through to the block.
Diana sidecockers come right to mind. Some of these barrels are blind pinned into the action and the only way to remove the barrel is to cut it off flush with the front of the receiver, then bore out that last couple inches of barrel.. and even the pins. The pins aren't rock hard, so a decent carbide tool will do the job. Wayyyy too much work with no guarantee of being better when the new barrel is in place. RB
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