Radiator fan switch (my turn)

Radiator fan switch (my turn)

Joined: August 29th, 2005, 4:22 am

August 8th, 2008, 2:34 am #1

On the drive to NE Renton, WA for the FEN meeting I saw some 3/4 gauge temps when I hit slow'n'go traffic (in Puget Sound? Really?). Some parking lot diagnostics (ear test) revealed no radiator fan action. Funny how that would make things a bit warm in traffic.

Today I ran through the checks. Removed relay E1, jumped pins 30 and 87, fans ran. This shows that fan motors, fuses are good. Checked for key-on switching circuit (+). Checked switching circuit ground (goes to rad. fan switch). Jumped rad. fan switch wires with key on and fans ran, so relay is ok.

Result: bad rad. fan switch.

Called Obert for price and availability...

As they say, hearing "$12 in stock"... priceless.

Gregory Smith

'87 Bertone X1/9 Corsa
'88 VW Vanagon
Olympia, Washington, USA
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Joined: April 2nd, 2002, 2:28 pm

August 8th, 2008, 4:30 am #2

Had to run into Anchorage from Eagle River (Read Edmonds to downtown Seattle) and on the highway, all was good, but hit some construction zones and it got hot. Real hot. I know my fans worked the day before, but, they were not kicking in. So, I let it cool down and got home no problem. Just to be safe, I bled the cooling system, and topped up (2/3rds in the expansion tank) on coolant/water mix with a splash of water wetter, and then started checking the fans. Both were getting power, but just not switching right. One of the things I was going to tackle this weekend after shooting a couple football games was a weird wiring issue. I installed a new Sony Xplod CD player, and before my fans stopped working, when they would come on there was a massive drop in amps and the stereo would reset and the clock would loose the set time. So, I went to the headlight pod and pulled the ground sprocket (these are so much cooler then the 1300 grounds) and the headlight pocket one was corroded and pretty rusty, so I took my dremel tool to it and polished it up, cleaned the connecters and remounted it. Did the one in the engine compartment too, and then did the rear trunk ones. Tightened everything up good, then hit the fuse box and cleaned all the fuses and sockets and boom, fans would come on when they were suppose to and the stereo does not cycle power when the fans kick in, and it has been 3 days and the clock has not reset at all.

So basically, check, clean, and replace any questionable ground points.

By the way, I am waiting for a nice evening to go take some shots of the car. Today was going to be it, but after a full day of sun, just as the light was starting to get good, the clouds rolled in and rain is starting to fall. Hopefully Sunday will be clear for some pictures....

Carl Auer - 82 FI X1/9 "Copperhead"
Seattle X1/9 member #50
Professional Photographer based in South Central Alaska
http://www.digital-eos.com
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Joined: December 21st, 2004, 3:04 am

August 8th, 2008, 8:08 am #3


You add a relay and some fresh 12v supply voltage for your player.  My 100 watter caused me 3 weeks of grief when I turned up the volume and the factory power lead dipped below 11.5 volts and caused the CD restart.  What a bummer.

Secondly... why not wire a simple switch around the radiator fan switch so you can turn on the fan at will?  It best to be LIGHTED, but I watch for a dip in the voltmeter.  A lighted switch will require a separate voltage source for the light as you are switching GROUND potential for the fan... but it'll remind you to shut it off.


My best,



Tony
Black Tooth and me... since 1983!
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Joined: December 18th, 2004, 1:50 am

August 8th, 2008, 11:56 am #4

To make matters simple an LED accross the switch leads will light when the fan is off.( The LED does not draw any real current and uses the fan relay as the return path.) The light will also go off when the fan turns on by the temperature switch.

Okay, no separate supply needed to light the light and the light is off when the fan is running, but indication is there and it is a simple install that I did on my car 20 years ago.

TonyK.

TonyK Grimsby Ont Canada.
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Joined: August 29th, 2005, 4:22 am

August 8th, 2008, 2:59 pm #5

You add a relay and some fresh 12v supply voltage for your player.&nbsp; My 100 watter caused me 3 weeks of grief when I turned up the volume and the factory power lead dipped below 11.5 volts and caused the CD restart.&nbsp; What a bummer.

Secondly... why not wire a simple switch around the&nbsp;radiator fan switch so you can turn on the fan at will?&nbsp; It best to be LIGHTED, but I watch for a dip in the voltmeter.&nbsp; A lighted switch will require a separate voltage source for the light as you are switching GROUND potential for the fan... but it'll remind you to shut it off.


My best,



Tony
Black Tooth and me... since 1983!
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That I know you'll suggest a manual override. Seriously, a good idea now that it's happened to me. I have 3 spare switches in my console. I guess I need to fab a fan ideagram.

A manual switch on the radiator switch ground is a pretty easy install, one wire from the ungrounded leg to a switch and then to ground. It would light up a lighted switch, the bulb doesn't care how it gets current flow, and the resistance probably wouldn't bother the relay either. The radiator fan switch simply grounds the relay for the fan(s).

Current (no pun intended) work-around is jumping the switch contacts so the fans run with the key on. Except for the current draw and noise, it's a good temporary solution (recommended by the factory manual).

Gregory Smith

'87 Bertone X1/9 Corsa
'88 VW Vanagon
Olympia, Washington, USA
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Joined: October 15th, 2007, 3:50 am

August 8th, 2008, 3:47 pm #6

switch is a good idea. Consider this to be insurance against over heating if that switch fails.
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Ian Lawson (NZ)
Ian Lawson (NZ)

August 8th, 2008, 11:41 pm #7

To make matters simple an LED accross the switch leads will light when the fan is off.( The LED does not draw any real current and uses the fan relay as the return path.) The light will also go off when the fan turns on by the temperature switch.

Okay, no separate supply needed to light the light and the light is off when the fan is running, but indication is there and it is a simple install that I did on my car 20 years ago.

TonyK.

TonyK Grimsby Ont Canada.
Tony, I am currently using the 'spare' switch on the console of my 1300 X to manually activate the radiator fans (as necessary by whatever driving conditions).

This little rocker switch, I think, was included as OE on my X - '78 RHD Euro-spec 1300.
It was probably intended by FIAT for use with any low-current draw accessories.

I feel it is possibly too 'light duty' to handle the current draw of the 2 radiator fans - I have installed an additional OE fan for summer conditions.
I have wired this switch to act as the ground path thru to the fan relay in the RH h/lamp pod.

I would strongly prefer to replace this switch with a slightly heavier-duty one, but which incorporates a 'warning' LED that lights up when I manually switch the fans on.
Are 12v switches, that include an LED like I have described, available?

Would appreciate your advice on this.

cheers, Ian - NZ




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Joined: July 20th, 2004, 6:25 am

August 9th, 2008, 12:48 am #8

Lawso,

I did it this way...

http://www.network54.com/Forum/12159/me ... 49/Success

...and yes, I did not include every wire in the drawing - only those within the scope of the project.

The light tells me when the fan is on, whether I turned it on manually or otherwise.

Regards,


Brian

Brisbane, Australia
1979 1300
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Ian Lawson (NZ)
Ian Lawson (NZ)

August 10th, 2008, 12:34 am #9

Brian, yep, that seems like a pretty simple method to get an "on" signal light working.

But I'm not sure if it would work with the way I have my manual fan switch wired at the mo.
My console fan switch has NO 'live' wire leading up to it!
It merely acts as a 'bypass' ground (earth) pathway for the earth terminal connection on the fan relay in the h/lamp pod i.e. 1 wire from this relay terminal up to one side on the console switch, and then a short wire from the other blade on the switch to a convenient earth under the console.

I think an "on" signal light within the switch would require current up to it, wouldn't it?

cheers, Ian - NZ

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Joined: August 29th, 2005, 4:22 am

August 10th, 2008, 2:36 am #10

A parallel path to ground will flow through and light up any lighted switch in it's path. Sorta like a test light would light up.

Gregory Smith

'87 Bertone X1/9 Corsa
'88 VW Vanagon
Olympia, Washington, USA
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