My X is Hot ! [aka - Cooling Woes]

My X is Hot ! [aka - Cooling Woes]

Rodolfo
Rodolfo

December 8th, 2002, 8:44 am #1

My 85 X is fast, has lots of power, and is a blast to drive - when it operates cool. Judging from coolant slowly dripping from underneath, I suspect one of the lines from the radiator to the rear has rusted through due to neglect from it's previous owner and now needs replacing. Anyone have any suggestions/experience with this? I have called around (IAP/Vicks) and have been told to find a parts car and grab the lines from it. Would like to explore other options...help!

PS> the radiator has been recently rodded and thermostat replaced, new water pump going in, so other major cooling components are in tact.

Thanks a bunch!
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Mike Richmond
Mike Richmond

December 8th, 2002, 3:07 pm #2

I haven't replaced the pipes, but I've done everything else recently and researched the pipe issue. First, you have to be sure where the leak is coming from. They make cooling system pressure testers to help find leaks without the car running. Are all the hoses OK? If it's from a visible end of the pipe you could weld it. If it's dripping from the protective housing you are into the big job. As I recall from other posts you cut all the spot welds on the box to get it off, and of course you have to weld it back. I think the donor pipe idea is bad, I would have no confidence in their integrity unless the donor was well maintained but whacked last week. Plus then there is another box/cover operation to get the pipes out. A muffler shop should be able to bend new pipe to the old one's shape. You could even go stainless. If you don't have a welder, the muffler shop could do the box replacement for you. You can cut spot welds with a Dremel tool and eye protection.

MikeR
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Rodolfo Mortero
Rodolfo Mortero

December 8th, 2002, 4:39 pm #3

Thanks! I guess I'm in for the big job, that is, the dripping is from the protective box. Of course, it HAS to be! I've replaced all other hoses so I'm sure they are reliably intact. What exactly is in that protective housing anyway? Just pipe? I've spotted another post that I think refers to the use of "type H copper pipe." Has anyone else done this with good results?

Rodolfo
My X19 Page
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Joined: April 29th, 2001, 1:36 am

December 8th, 2002, 6:09 pm #4


I DARE YA!

If you are SURE its not one of the heater core hoses... then

1.  Jack up the car on one side HIGH and support.

2.  Using a dye grinder or Dremel Tool, cut welds the ENDS of the two large water pipes off front and rear.

3.  Take these ends to LOWES or HOME DEPOT and find the LARGEST HOTWATER PVC pipe that will slide easily inside these pieces.  Also buy the appropriate glue and 45 and 90 degree fittings and adapters to again bring it back to the approximate HOSE size.

4.  Take these fittings to you local auto store and buy some flex hoses (4) that will meet the task.

5.  Go home and slide the NEW pipe inside the old, glue and connect.  You'll probably have 40 bucks invested.

(An alternative would be to cut open the under tray and replace the pipes, with copper or plastic. You can cut just one side and bend it or cut it off and leave it off!  Just support the pipe.)

I double-dare ya!


My Best,


Tony Natoli
Santa Clarita, CA - Caretaker for two '79s, White Fang & Black Tooth
http://www.max1-9.com/images/Friends%20 ... natoli.htm
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Mike Waggoner
Mike Waggoner

December 8th, 2002, 9:20 pm #5

I cut the whole box off, which was a huge pain in the butt. Replacing it wasn't too bad though.
The only other thing I might suggest is going with copper or Iron etc. pipes instead of hot water PVC pipes, as there is a fair amount of vibration under there and PVC ain't that strong (you bottom out once and lose all your coolant).
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Rodolfo Mortero
Rodolfo Mortero

December 9th, 2002, 4:36 am #6

I DARE YA!

If you are SURE its not one of the heater core hoses... then

1.  Jack up the car on one side HIGH and support.

2.  Using a dye grinder or Dremel Tool, cut welds the ENDS of the two large water pipes off front and rear.

3.  Take these ends to LOWES or HOME DEPOT and find the LARGEST HOTWATER PVC pipe that will slide easily inside these pieces.  Also buy the appropriate glue and 45 and 90 degree fittings and adapters to again bring it back to the approximate HOSE size.

4.  Take these fittings to you local auto store and buy some flex hoses (4) that will meet the task.

5.  Go home and slide the NEW pipe inside the old, glue and connect.  You'll probably have 40 bucks invested.

(An alternative would be to cut open the under tray and replace the pipes, with copper or plastic. You can cut just one side and bend it or cut it off and leave it off!  Just support the pipe.)

I double-dare ya!


My Best,


Tony Natoli
Santa Clarita, CA - Caretaker for two '79s, White Fang & Black Tooth
http://www.max1-9.com/images/Friends%20 ... natoli.htm
http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/papa-tony/
http://www.x1-9ownersclub.org.uk/survey ... /1142.html
Based on your tip and another similar procedure I received. I'll let you know how it went.

Off to surgery!

Rodolfo
My X19 Page
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Joined: April 29th, 2001, 1:36 am

December 10th, 2002, 4:10 am #7


I think this is gonna be NEAT!  Sure hope it works!

We all know that COPPER works... Doug 'The Rat' Lindeman did his and I've seen it...

I'd sure like to see one in plastic!


My Best,


Tony Natoli
Santa Clarita, CA - Caretaker for two '79s, White Fang & Black Tooth
http://www.max1-9.com/images/Friends%20 ... natoli.htm
http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/papa-tony/
http://www.x1-9ownersclub.org.uk/survey ... /1142.html
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Rodolfo Mortero
Rodolfo Mortero

December 10th, 2002, 5:27 am #8

Started cutting and got the front section off. Dremmel is up to the task! One lesson learned already - one pipe was not completely drained - leads me to think that side is ok. It was getting whacked regardless. I'll have photos soon. So you're thinking copper?

My X19 Page
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ian lawson
ian lawson

December 10th, 2002, 8:54 pm #9

Based on your tip and another similar procedure I received. I'll let you know how it went.

Off to surgery!

Rodolfo
My X19 Page
Rodolfo - I had to replace the underfloor cooling pipes on my 1300 X a couple of years ago (after driving over a fairly large rock in the middle of the road that had fallen off an adjacent cliff face). The pipes had obviously been damaged by the large amount of coolant dripping out of the tunnel. Luckily, I have a friend with a bodyshop who did the repair for me. He used a disc grinder to 'knife' away the underfloor tunnel about 1 inch below the floorpan level, and dropped the whole cooling pipes/tunnel as an assembly. The cooling pipes are secured in the tunnel with metal clamps with some insulating material around them (to stop them rattling, I guess) so you cannot just pull them thru from one end. As the tunnel had also been damaged by the rock, he fabricated a complete new tunnel using thicker (4 mm) steel. We then mulled over what material to replace the pipes with - stainless or mild steel (e.g. exhaust tubing). A metallurgist friend advised against stainless because of its tendency to become brittle with age - but I decided to use stainless because of its superior resistance to corrosion than mild steel (I didn't want to have to do this job EVER again). We assembled the new pipes into the new tunnel as they been originally (using the same clamps etc) and stitch-MIG welded the assembly back onto the floorpan again along the flange that had been left from cutting the old tunnel off. It has proven a 100% successful repair. I would suggest against using plastic pipes, as I don't think you would get them to slide easily inside the old steel pipes (rust, scale, crap, etc), and you would not want to have to repeat the job again!! Hope this helps you in your forthcoming challenge , cheers, ian
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Joined: April 29th, 2001, 1:36 am

December 11th, 2002, 3:25 am #10

Started cutting and got the front section off. Dremmel is up to the task! One lesson learned already - one pipe was not completely drained - leads me to think that side is ok. It was getting whacked regardless. I'll have photos soon. So you're thinking copper?

My X19 Page
Schedule 40 is what is commonly found in Home Improvement stores but there is a NEW PVC material that is kinda off-white... and it uses different fitting and glue also.  Its MADE for hi temperature pipes.

Frankly, I thing the regular schedule 40 would work just fine!

Imagine... GLUEING the damn thing back together... no torches, solder, or stitch welding and no corrosion problems.  If kept outta direct sunlight and supported... it should last a lifetime or more.

To the best of my knowledge... not one has attempted this yet.  The copper replacement has been done and worke just fine! 

I'm thinking this would even be a faster/cheaper alternative!


My Best,


Tony Natoli
Santa Clarita, CA - Caretaker for two '79s, White Fang & Black Tooth
http://www.max1-9.com/images/Friends%20 ... natoli.htm
http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/papa-tony/
http://www.x1-9ownersclub.org.uk/survey ... /1142.html
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