Flushing the radiator

Flushing the radiator

htf
Joined: May 5th, 2001, 4:29 pm

July 13th, 2008, 2:40 pm #1

I need to. She is heating up at high speed. It is in the low 90's F now.
It has been mentioned here many times.
I want to make sure I am using the right water circuits.
The compound I am using calls for a heatup to just below boiling (disconnecting the fan) and pouring in half the content, running it for a while and flushing with clean water. This procedure to be done twice.
On a "normal" car you do it at the radiator cap. What do I do on an abnormal car? Where do I pour the stuff and where should I drain?
Thanks


HaXD
Herzel, in Israel

WhiteX
The late Green '85 X1/9
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Joined: August 29th, 2005, 4:22 am

July 13th, 2008, 3:23 pm #2

With a radiator flush product on an X, you have two options, either add it to the coolant pressure reservoir or through a flush'n'fill tee that has been added. Either way should work, since the flow to the radiator doesn't really happen until the thermostat opens.

Be careful not to add cold water to a hot engine, as the cast iron and aluminum will contract differently (the aluminum head more severely) in reaction to the cold water and cause cracks or head gasket problems. Best to wait until the engine is cool enough to tough before adding cold water. This is important to remember for roadside cooling system repairs.

I think you'll have little success with this method though. The more successful repair will be to remove the radiator, flush with a high-flow, high-pressure hose paying attention to the lower part of the radiator where the sediment will be. A radiator shop visit might be in order if the sediment won't budge.

Finally, a new radiator from C. Obert and Co. or other vendor is a guaranteed solution, as I discovered with mine.

Gregory Smith

'87 Bertone X1/9 Corsa
'88 VW Vanagon
Olympia, Washington, USA
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htf
Joined: May 5th, 2001, 4:29 pm

July 13th, 2008, 5:02 pm #3

I will consider taking the radiator out.
C. Obert and Co. is some 7000 miles out of my way.....
I just want to here a few more openions.
Thanks for the info,


HaXD
Herzel, in Israel

WhiteX
The late Green '85 X1/9
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Russell woodall
Russell woodall

July 14th, 2008, 9:13 am #4

I need to. She is heating up at high speed. It is in the low 90's F now.
It has been mentioned here many times.
I want to make sure I am using the right water circuits.
The compound I am using calls for a heatup to just below boiling (disconnecting the fan) and pouring in half the content, running it for a while and flushing with clean water. This procedure to be done twice.
On a "normal" car you do it at the radiator cap. What do I do on an abnormal car? Where do I pour the stuff and where should I drain?
Thanks


HaXD
Herzel, in Israel

WhiteX
The late Green '85 X1/9
Hi the best way to fix a blocked radiator is to take it out take it to a radiator shop and get them to remove the tank and rod out the core and from then on run car with coolant. I use tank water as well in my cars. I have done this with many cars in the past and it has fixed it every time.
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Joined: December 21st, 2004, 3:04 am

July 14th, 2008, 10:31 am #5

I need to. She is heating up at high speed. It is in the low 90's F now.
It has been mentioned here many times.
I want to make sure I am using the right water circuits.
The compound I am using calls for a heatup to just below boiling (disconnecting the fan) and pouring in half the content, running it for a while and flushing with clean water. This procedure to be done twice.
On a "normal" car you do it at the radiator cap. What do I do on an abnormal car? Where do I pour the stuff and where should I drain?
Thanks


HaXD
Herzel, in Israel

WhiteX
The late Green '85 X1/9
I was able to successfully "rod " my radiator by dropping it, leave the hoses on, laying it face down, and then adding acid to clean.

I first flushed it out with a garden hose... using rags and a clamp on one hose.  Then I emptied, and added a 50% mix of POOL ACID, I believe it was Suphuric, but it could have been Muratic, and filled the radiator and let it sit 30 minutes.  Then I hosed down the area, (driveway), and then flushed out the radiator again.

(USE RUBBER GLOVES, GOGGLES AND BOOTS, or be very careful to not get it in your eyes and have a hose handy to flush away any acid.  Just like any one else using it in their pools.)

Really cleans up the driveway also...

When you reinstall the radiator, make SURE its in its UPPER mounts correctly by seeing that the vent is centered in its access hole.  It will go up on either side of its mounts, but will NOT cool as efficiently.

BTW... have you changed the stat in this car?


My best,



Tony
Black Tooth and me... since 1983!
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Last edited by Black-Tooth on July 15th, 2008, 4:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: July 19th, 2007, 6:15 pm

July 14th, 2008, 5:02 pm #6

I need to. She is heating up at high speed. It is in the low 90's F now.
It has been mentioned here many times.
I want to make sure I am using the right water circuits.
The compound I am using calls for a heatup to just below boiling (disconnecting the fan) and pouring in half the content, running it for a while and flushing with clean water. This procedure to be done twice.
On a "normal" car you do it at the radiator cap. What do I do on an abnormal car? Where do I pour the stuff and where should I drain?
Thanks


HaXD
Herzel, in Israel

WhiteX
The late Green '85 X1/9
I'd do the flush as you planned, which should serve to address gunk in the cooling passages of the engine.

But now that all than gunk is dislodged and circulating in the cooling system, it's more than likely going to make a partially clogged radiator more clogegd than it was before.

So do the flush, then after the last "rinse", pull the radiator and take it to a good shop for a flow test. If clogged just let then do what needs to be done: a "boil-out" (kinda like what Tony wrote about), a rod-out which physically scrubs the gunk out of the tubes.

One bad thing that may happen is that in the process of cleaning, the gunk that was keeping pinholes in the radiator from leaking gets cleaned out and now you have a clean leaking radiator! But a good shop should be able to handle a few pinholes.
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