82 FI Will not run

82 FI Will not run

Joined: December 31st, 2007, 12:03 am

April 25th, 2008, 4:55 pm #1

I am having problems with a 1982 X with FI. I started this spring by replacing the plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter, new fuel lines, and a timing belt. The car was running perfectly for about 300 miles. One morning I went to start the car it would run for about 5 seconds and stall. After going through everything obvious, I reinstalled the original plug wires. The car then idled and ran just like before. Was able to drive several hundred miles. I ordered another set of 8mm wires and replaced them. Same problem again. will not run more than 5 seconds. So the original wires went back on. This time I drove about 5 miles and the car just lost power and would not restart. After some retries it ran long enough to get back home. Now the car will start, but dies after about 5 seconds. Same symptom with the original plus 2 additional sets of wires. Any Ideas?

Bob Grasch

1982 X1/9 Sandwich, IL
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Joined: May 16th, 2005, 10:24 pm

April 25th, 2008, 5:02 pm #2

If you have not already done so, look at the F.I. Trouble Shooting guides in the "Best of..." section at the upper right of this page. Some great information on the injection systems.

Allen
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Damonfg
Damonfg

April 25th, 2008, 5:16 pm #3

I am having problems with a 1982 X with FI. I started this spring by replacing the plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter, new fuel lines, and a timing belt. The car was running perfectly for about 300 miles. One morning I went to start the car it would run for about 5 seconds and stall. After going through everything obvious, I reinstalled the original plug wires. The car then idled and ran just like before. Was able to drive several hundred miles. I ordered another set of 8mm wires and replaced them. Same problem again. will not run more than 5 seconds. So the original wires went back on. This time I drove about 5 miles and the car just lost power and would not restart. After some retries it ran long enough to get back home. Now the car will start, but dies after about 5 seconds. Same symptom with the original plus 2 additional sets of wires. Any Ideas?

Bob Grasch

1982 X1/9 Sandwich, IL
Does it sputter, cough, wheeze ? Or just go silent ?

When you crank it after it dies, does it sound like it's trying to fire or trying to run ?
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Joined: December 21st, 2004, 3:04 am

April 25th, 2008, 5:35 pm #4

I am having problems with a 1982 X with FI. I started this spring by replacing the plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter, new fuel lines, and a timing belt. The car was running perfectly for about 300 miles. One morning I went to start the car it would run for about 5 seconds and stall. After going through everything obvious, I reinstalled the original plug wires. The car then idled and ran just like before. Was able to drive several hundred miles. I ordered another set of 8mm wires and replaced them. Same problem again. will not run more than 5 seconds. So the original wires went back on. This time I drove about 5 miles and the car just lost power and would not restart. After some retries it ran long enough to get back home. Now the car will start, but dies after about 5 seconds. Same symptom with the original plus 2 additional sets of wires. Any Ideas?

Bob Grasch

1982 X1/9 Sandwich, IL
Pull the POD to the right of the engine cover and check for WATER... then unbolt the EIU and remove the plug.  Check for corrosion and clean.

If you have a spare EIU... try it, or if you can get the engine to run with the old one... then heat it up with a 1200 watt hairdry and see if it fails after about 3 minutes.  If it continues to run, then this is not the problem.

Then USE the FI guide... it will SYSTEMATICALLY walk you through the problem.

Sorry for your trouble...  But its NOT the plug wires... that was a coincidence.


My best,



Tony
Black Tooth and me... since 1983!
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Joined: December 31st, 2007, 12:03 am

April 25th, 2008, 5:44 pm #5

Does it sputter, cough, wheeze ? Or just go silent ?

When you crank it after it dies, does it sound like it's trying to fire or trying to run ?
It starts to sputter, then dies.

Bob Grasch

1982 X1/9 Sandwich, IL
Quote

Joined: December 31st, 2007, 12:03 am

April 25th, 2008, 6:18 pm #6

Pull the POD to the right of the engine cover and check for WATER... then unbolt the EIU and remove the plug.&nbsp; Check for corrosion and clean.

If you have a spare EIU... try it, or if you can get the engine to run with the old one... then heat it up with a 1200 watt hairdry and see if it fails after about 3 minutes.&nbsp; If it continues to run, then this is not the problem.

Then USE the FI guide... it will SYSTEMATICALLY walk you through the problem.

Sorry for your trouble...&nbsp; But its NOT the plug wires... that was a coincidence.


My best,



Tony
Black Tooth and me... since 1983!
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<font face_"Times Bew Roman" size=1>Disclaimer: This message does not necessarily reflect the views of the sender, or, for that matter, any other carbon-based life form; Any resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, is unintentional and coincidental; All models are 18 years of age or older; Dry clean only, do not use bleach, Tumble dry and remove immediately; Do not bend, fold, staple or mutilate; Anchovies, cheese or jalapenos may be added to orders upon request for an additional charge; Professional driver on a closed course, do not attempt to duplicate; Your actual mileage may vary; No substitutions are allowed; Available for a limited time only while supplies last; Offers are void where prohibited by law; Humor is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied; The user assumes full liabilities and originator is not liable for damages due to use or misuse; We are an equal opportunity employer, with no regard to race, religion, sex, or sexual preference; No shoes, no shirt, no service; Read at your own risk; This post may contain material some may find to be objectionable; Parental advisory: Explicit lyrics; keep away from pets and small children; limit one-per-family please; No money down; No purchase necessary; Ask us about our guns-for-dope trade-in plan; You need not be present to win; Some assembly required; Batteries not included; Action figures sold separately; Contents were packed full at the factory, but may have settled during shipping; Peanuts and peanut products are produced in this establishment and also consumed by the author; Sanitized and sealed for your protection; Do not use if safety seal is broken; Do not use while operating a motor vehicle or heavy equipment; Safety goggles may be required during use; Use gloves when handling; Call before you dig; Use only with proper ventilation; For external use only, if a swelling, redness, rash, or irritation develops, discontinue use; Do not place near a flammable or magnetic source; Keep away from open flames; Avoid inhaling fumes or contact with mucous membranes; Contents under pressure, may explode if incinerated; Smoking may be hazardous to your health; No smoking allowed, except in designated areas; The best safeguard, second only to abstinence, is the use of a good laugh; Text is made from 100% recycled electrons and magnetic particles; No animals were harmed while writing this post; No salt, MSG, preservatives, artificial color or flavor added; If ingested, do not induce vomiting, If symptoms persist, consult a comedian; Ribbed for your pleasure, slippery when wet; Must be 18 to enter; No one under 21 allowed; We check IDs to age 40; Seniors Welcome; Ask for our Senior Menu; Present discount coupons to cashier before totaling; An 18% gratuity will be added to the total for parties of 8 or more; We reserve the right to refuse service to anyone. Return all carts to the store; No dogs allowed, except for the visually impaired; Penalties for early withdrawal, one size fits all; Offer is valid only at participating sites; Prices slightly higher west of the Rockies; Allow four to six weeks for delivery; If defects are found, do not attempt a repair, return to an authorized service center; Please remain seated until the vehicle has come to a complete stop; Objects in the mirror may be closer than they appear; Fasten seat belts; In the unlikely event of a loss of cabin pressure, oxygen masks will fall from above, cover your face first, then assist those around you. Your seat cushion may be used as a floatation device. This disclaimer is invalid in the event of hurricanes, floods, earthquakes, sonic booms, vibration, electromagnetic radiation from nuclear blasts or any other act of war, unauthorized repair, improper installation, misuse, typos, misspelled words, missing or altered signatures, and incidents owing to computer or disk failure, accidental file deletions, and Acts of God. Other restrictions may, or may not apply.</font>

No standing water, and the contacts look good. Cleaned them, same problem. Don't have another one to try.

Bob Grasch

1982 X1/9 Sandwich, IL
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Matt Brannon - Midwest-X19.com
Matt Brannon - Midwest-X19.com

April 25th, 2008, 6:38 pm #7

I am having problems with a 1982 X with FI. I started this spring by replacing the plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter, new fuel lines, and a timing belt. The car was running perfectly for about 300 miles. One morning I went to start the car it would run for about 5 seconds and stall. After going through everything obvious, I reinstalled the original plug wires. The car then idled and ran just like before. Was able to drive several hundred miles. I ordered another set of 8mm wires and replaced them. Same problem again. will not run more than 5 seconds. So the original wires went back on. This time I drove about 5 miles and the car just lost power and would not restart. After some retries it ran long enough to get back home. Now the car will start, but dies after about 5 seconds. Same symptom with the original plus 2 additional sets of wires. Any Ideas?

Bob Grasch

1982 X1/9 Sandwich, IL
Hi Bob,

See if you can find an inline fuel-pressure gauge, they are cheap, about $20 from Jegs.com or locally and monitor your fuel pressure. Place in-line between the fuel filter and the fuel rail along the left-side of the engine bay. I will bet that you'll see the fuel pressure drop significantly when the car starts to sputter.

You probably have a sludged or crudded fuel system. I have been seeing more and more of these, seems like 20 years is about the sweet spot for even a daily driver gas tank to start sludging over. The stuff is just nasty and will clog lines and kill fuel pumps quickly.

Pull the fuel lines at the bottom of the tank and watch the flow out of the main and return lines. If they are dribbling, or start good then slow up, then you've probably got crud in the tank.

There is a brass filter sock at the inlet of the outlet line (sounds funny) that is usually a mess. If the tank requires R&R, you will need to use something to dig that screen off (a PITA but can be done). then you can rod the pipes clean with wire.

Before you do all of that though, let's make sure your ignition system is happy, since that's the last place that was touched.

Pop off the distributor cap off and look at the contacts of the cap and rotor, especially the top contact. If the rotor was not pushed onto the distributor arm far enough it can press excessively hard on the top carbon button and wear it out. Make sure the ignition pick-up plug in the side of the ignition is solid and not coming loose. Lastly, make sure the cowl drain area doesn't have water in it and is submerging the ignition module.

-M
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Bob Brown
Bob Brown

April 25th, 2008, 6:50 pm #8

Pull the POD to the right of the engine cover and check for WATER... then unbolt the EIU and remove the plug.&nbsp; Check for corrosion and clean.

If you have a spare EIU... try it, or if you can get the engine to run with the old one... then heat it up with a 1200 watt hairdry and see if it fails after about 3 minutes.&nbsp; If it continues to run, then this is not the problem.

Then USE the FI guide... it will SYSTEMATICALLY walk you through the problem.

Sorry for your trouble...&nbsp; But its NOT the plug wires... that was a coincidence.


My best,



Tony
Black Tooth and me... since 1983!
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<img src="http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/ ... gFixed.jpg ";></a>
<font face_"Times Bew Roman" size=1>Disclaimer: This message does not necessarily reflect the views of the sender, or, for that matter, any other carbon-based life form; Any resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, is unintentional and coincidental; All models are 18 years of age or older; Dry clean only, do not use bleach, Tumble dry and remove immediately; Do not bend, fold, staple or mutilate; Anchovies, cheese or jalapenos may be added to orders upon request for an additional charge; Professional driver on a closed course, do not attempt to duplicate; Your actual mileage may vary; No substitutions are allowed; Available for a limited time only while supplies last; Offers are void where prohibited by law; Humor is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied; The user assumes full liabilities and originator is not liable for damages due to use or misuse; We are an equal opportunity employer, with no regard to race, religion, sex, or sexual preference; No shoes, no shirt, no service; Read at your own risk; This post may contain material some may find to be objectionable; Parental advisory: Explicit lyrics; keep away from pets and small children; limit one-per-family please; No money down; No purchase necessary; Ask us about our guns-for-dope trade-in plan; You need not be present to win; Some assembly required; Batteries not included; Action figures sold separately; Contents were packed full at the factory, but may have settled during shipping; Peanuts and peanut products are produced in this establishment and also consumed by the author; Sanitized and sealed for your protection; Do not use if safety seal is broken; Do not use while operating a motor vehicle or heavy equipment; Safety goggles may be required during use; Use gloves when handling; Call before you dig; Use only with proper ventilation; For external use only, if a swelling, redness, rash, or irritation develops, discontinue use; Do not place near a flammable or magnetic source; Keep away from open flames; Avoid inhaling fumes or contact with mucous membranes; Contents under pressure, may explode if incinerated; Smoking may be hazardous to your health; No smoking allowed, except in designated areas; The best safeguard, second only to abstinence, is the use of a good laugh; Text is made from 100% recycled electrons and magnetic particles; No animals were harmed while writing this post; No salt, MSG, preservatives, artificial color or flavor added; If ingested, do not induce vomiting, If symptoms persist, consult a comedian; Ribbed for your pleasure, slippery when wet; Must be 18 to enter; No one under 21 allowed; We check IDs to age 40; Seniors Welcome; Ask for our Senior Menu; Present discount coupons to cashier before totaling; An 18% gratuity will be added to the total for parties of 8 or more; We reserve the right to refuse service to anyone. Return all carts to the store; No dogs allowed, except for the visually impaired; Penalties for early withdrawal, one size fits all; Offer is valid only at participating sites; Prices slightly higher west of the Rockies; Allow four to six weeks for delivery; If defects are found, do not attempt a repair, return to an authorized service center; Please remain seated until the vehicle has come to a complete stop; Objects in the mirror may be closer than they appear; Fasten seat belts; In the unlikely event of a loss of cabin pressure, oxygen masks will fall from above, cover your face first, then assist those around you. Your seat cushion may be used as a floatation device. This disclaimer is invalid in the event of hurricanes, floods, earthquakes, sonic booms, vibration, electromagnetic radiation from nuclear blasts or any other act of war, unauthorized repair, improper installation, misuse, typos, misspelled words, missing or altered signatures, and incidents owing to computer or disk failure, accidental file deletions, and Acts of God. Other restrictions may, or may not apply.</font>

So I'm thinking Tony's making a pre-emptive strike for when I do make a suggestion! Haha! Well, I disappoint ya...

I fully agree that this has nothing to do with your plug wires. But what you describe is a bonne-fide intermittent, and a relatively tuff one at that.

Start with a (VOM) voltmeter. If the car gets to the point it won't run, check for +12V (or at least 10V) at the coil. The ignition should be on when checking. The minus side of the coil pulses when the engine ROTATES, (running or not) Check for those conditions when the car doesn't fire. You'll need 2 people (obviously) if you don't have a starter bypass switch. (Someone's got to turn the key!)

You can temporarily SHORT OUT the resistor to see if it's the cause. (upper right side of engine compartment) Try jumping out the resistor, see if the car starts. If it does, GET A NEW RESISTOR. Don't run the car for more than 15 minutes or so without the resistor in the line, as you'll be pre-cooking the coil. A 0.75 ohm 50W resistor will work fine and protect your coil. (auto parts stores) Go higher value, not lower if you have to, but not more than 1.25 ohms.

Next, check the QUALITY of the connections. Art M. found plenty of bad eyelet crimps around his ignition coil. You might have the same thing going with yours, so check those eyelets.

If the above looks / is working properly, try another ECM. (along with Tony's suggestion as well) There are no substitutes for that I'm afraid.

Let us know what you find.

-Bob Brown
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Damonfg
Damonfg

April 25th, 2008, 7:19 pm #9

It starts to sputter, then dies.

Bob Grasch

1982 X1/9 Sandwich, IL
Remove the elbow between the air filter and air flow meter. Turn the key on (NOT start) and push the AFM's flapper door with a pencil.

The fuel pump should run when the flapper door is open. Could be an issue where you are losing fuel (sputtering). I am inclined to think that losing spark would be more of a sudden issue- as can be agreed to by everyone who has had the coil-double-crimp-connector-special.

It could be that you are bumping/moving/wiggling the AFM connector when changing wires and somehow that is making/breaking the connection ?
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Joined: December 31st, 2007, 12:03 am

April 25th, 2008, 7:45 pm #10

So I'm thinking Tony's making a pre-emptive strike for when I do make a suggestion! Haha! Well, I disappoint ya...

I fully agree that this has nothing to do with your plug wires. But what you describe is a bonne-fide intermittent, and a relatively tuff one at that.

Start with a (VOM) voltmeter. If the car gets to the point it won't run, check for +12V (or at least 10V) at the coil. The ignition should be on when checking. The minus side of the coil pulses when the engine ROTATES, (running or not) Check for those conditions when the car doesn't fire. You'll need 2 people (obviously) if you don't have a starter bypass switch. (Someone's got to turn the key!)

You can temporarily SHORT OUT the resistor to see if it's the cause. (upper right side of engine compartment) Try jumping out the resistor, see if the car starts. If it does, GET A NEW RESISTOR. Don't run the car for more than 15 minutes or so without the resistor in the line, as you'll be pre-cooking the coil. A 0.75 ohm 50W resistor will work fine and protect your coil. (auto parts stores) Go higher value, not lower if you have to, but not more than 1.25 ohms.

Next, check the QUALITY of the connections. Art M. found plenty of bad eyelet crimps around his ignition coil. You might have the same thing going with yours, so check those eyelets.

If the above looks / is working properly, try another ECM. (along with Tony's suggestion as well) There are no substitutes for that I'm afraid.

Let us know what you find.

-Bob Brown
I only am receiving about 6v at the coil. After taking the coil out to check and clean the connections, I noticed there is one green wire with an eyelet behind the coil that isn't attached. Is this normal? On the + side the condenser and one side of the resistor is attached. The - side as two connections, one to the module, the other goes into the car. Both are attached by a connector that attaches to the coil.

Bob Grasch

1982 X1/9 Sandwich, IL
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