Joined: November 17th, 2014, 11:09 am

June 10th, 2018, 10:10 am #11

Didn't know there was a carrier version of the Mig 21...   
I think you should go for the Ye-6T/2 prototype with skid landing gear for dirt strips. 

Also, how can the welder be finished? 
You haven't painted it, yet...
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Joined: January 1st, 1970, 12:00 am

June 10th, 2018, 5:06 pm #12

I was thinking of painting at least the to blue slices of shell, to pretty things up a bit. I can't do much about the control panel face, unless I want to do a bunch of dismantling and whatever it'd take to redo the setting markings, but the two shell halves would be pretty easy.

Kind of lipstick on a pig, but hey. 😁

Doc.
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Joined: January 1st, 1970, 12:00 am

July 17th, 2018, 3:52 am #13

One last finishing touch:

Earlier I'd noted that the rubber strain-relief sleeve out the base of the gun has aged and cracked, and had been unceremoniously taped back in place- with about 2-1/1 rolls of tape. 😁

Well, my local Miller dealer was able to find me a replacement- the new ones being metal springs rather than rubber sleeves, but they fit into the old location just fine.

To install it, however, naturally one has to completely dismantle the entire gun:



After that, the new strain relief slips on, and one can reassemble the gun. (I'd noticed as I was taking this shot that I'd forgotten the clamp at the end of the hose- I did reinstall it. 😋 )



And that's it. One well worn, high-mileage Tweco #2 MIG gun, fully freshened up and ready for another decade or two of use.



Doc.
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Joined: September 16th, 2014, 7:01 am

July 17th, 2018, 5:16 am #14

While you had the gun all apart would have been the perfect time to slide some T&B Heat Shrink (the electrical stuff with Hot-melt Glue inside) down the stinger sheath for that cut spot in the middle. Not that rare, Home Schleppo stocks the medium and large (#8 and 1/0 to 4/0 and through maybe 600 or 750MCM) sizes. 

Might want to find some for the next time you take it apart, it has other uses - like on electrical crimp ring terminals and butt splice connectors (Surprise!) where you want it to stay put after you shrink it. 

The larger sizes are good for minor patching on 12/3 or 12/4 SO/STO extension cord sheaths, rather than tossing it or turning that primo 100' or 150' cord into a 60' and a 40' before it's time. And about as waterproof as anything else if you have room for a generous 3" to 4" overlap at each end.

If you can find a can of Miller Blue you can refresh the case sides. The faceplate stays as-is because of the markings.  And Harbor Fright Tools has a very nice magnetic gun holder that you can park on top of the welder, or on the weld table plate, or anywhere convenient. Most machines kill the power to the gun stinger when the trigger is off, but you never know.
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Joined: April 27th, 2015, 3:26 pm

July 18th, 2018, 9:45 pm #15

DocsMachine wrote: Hollowed-out volcano lairs being notoriously short of runway space.
You just have to dig deeper, and keep the boring machine straight and level!
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Joined: January 1st, 1970, 12:00 am

July 18th, 2018, 9:57 pm #16

BruceBergman wrote:While you had the gun all apart would have been the perfect time to slide some T&B Heat Shrink (the electrical stuff with Hot-melt Glue inside) down the stinger sheath for that cut spot in the middle.
-That would have been a great idea... if I'd thought of it in time. 😁
No worries though, I think my tape fix, which is just electrical insulation, not gas containment, will do fine for a while. And a whole new stinger, complete with gun, complete with liner and tip, can be had for about $150, so if it ever becomes a problem, I can swap the whole thing and still only have about $250 tied up in this whole mess. 😋
Doc.
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