Joined: January 1st, 1970, 12:00 am

July 12th, 2018, 1:17 am #41

After-action report!

The sun finally came back out today, so I made sure the diff oil was topped up (the W-27 cover adds a bit of volume, but I wasn't sure how much) and took 'er out for a drive.

And the verdict is, top marks. 😁

There was really nothing wrong with the old rear brakes or differential, other than because it was "open", it'd skid when pulling out of a gravel road onto pavement. But the new brakes- properly bled this time, which, as I said earlier, I wasn't sure they were last time- are solid and powerful. The old phrase was "stops on a dime", and in this case, I think it could do that and give me nine cents change. 😁

I don't have anywhere yet to really push it around a tight corner, to see what the rear sway bar is doing, but I'll get around to that. I will say that the old shocks really weren't doing anything, and so the back end was basically pillow-soft. The new shocks, likely combined with the rear sway bar, gave me a degree of "harshness" on some of the worse sections of road- that is, I could feel more of the road than I could before.

Not a problem, really, and I'm sure I'll get used to it.

The other thing is that for the half mile or so, I thought the trans wasn't shifting into 3rd. 😁 The new gears therefore are clearly lower (higher numerically) than the old ones. I was pretty sure the old ones were tall "highway" gears- I actually got pretty good mileage with it- but I never stopped to check exactly what they were. The new ones are 3.31:1, chosen because I eventually plan to slip a more modern 4-speed auto with overdrive in this thing, and with an 0.78:1 overdrive a 3.31 becomes a 2.58.

As the original axle was almost certainly no taller than 2.73 or so, after the OD goes in (maybe next year 😋 ) I should get even better mileage, and still have a little better power and acceleration at lower speeds.

But, what I'm going to have to do next is find out exactly what gear the old axle had, and replace the speedo drive gear in the transmission. Cruising in an area where people were probably doing 55-58, my speedo said nearly 70. 😆

Doc.
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Joined: May 11th, 2004, 4:09 am

July 12th, 2018, 12:07 pm #42

700r4 is the likely candidate here, and IIRC, has numerically higher 1st gear ratio than the th350 or other 3 speed variants.  You'll see a wider spread between gears, but it should enhance your enjoyment when "testing" that new differential :)
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Joined: October 24th, 2014, 10:51 pm

July 12th, 2018, 12:30 pm #43

If you're iffy on driving with a weirded-out speedo, just about any GPS dingus will give you real-time MPH display - It's what I have to do in my old Taurus, since the speedo in it is one of the last cable-driven ones they put in production vehicles, and it's got a 'catch' in it - something hangs up and slaps the needle all the way over, so I'm doing anywhere from 50 to 300+ on the highway with the cruise set... 😁
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Joined: January 1st, 1970, 12:00 am

July 12th, 2018, 7:28 pm #44

timberwolfz28 wrote:700r4 is the likely candidate here...
-Actually, I suspect it'll be the old 2004R out of the original land-barge the engine came out of. I still have it, and it supposedly worked just as well as the engine- I damn near dropped it in back in the original build, but the THM350 was already in the car, and i didn't feel like having to mod the crossmember, butcher the column-shift detents to accomodate the 4-speed, and all that stuff.

Keeping in mind that when I was dropping the engine in in the first place, I still had no idea what kind of condition the rest of the car was in. Was I going to have to do $1000 in brake and suspension work just to make it safe to drive? Was the diff thrashed? Was the frame bent?

So I went with the easy route and just plugged the engine to the existing trans. The 200, however, being the same length, can use the same driveshaft, and will essentially bolt on, save for having to shift the crossmember back about six inches. The 200 isn't particularly strong, but if I leave it behind the wimp 307- which it came on- it should last just fine.

Doc.
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Joined: January 1st, 1970, 12:00 am

July 12th, 2018, 7:33 pm #45

themadkansan wrote:If you're iffy on driving with a weirded-out speedo, just about any GPS dingus will give you real-time MPH display [snip]
so I'm doing anywhere from 50 to 300+ on the highway with the cruise set... 😁
-The speedo isn't a huge issue for the moment, I've been driving long eenough to more or less know how fast I'm going. And heck, 99% of the time, it's all "just keeping up with traffic" anyway. 😋

On the funky needle thing, in my old Explorer, it was always fun on a very cold winter morning- like 20 to 40 below. I'm not sure what the cause was, apart from really thick oil causing it somehow, but because of it, the speedo would read really high until it all warmed up.

Like showing 60 miles an hour by the time I got to the end of my driveway. 😆 Get out on the road and it's pegged at 120 in a 45 zone. 😋

Doc.
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Joined: September 16th, 2014, 7:01 am

July 12th, 2018, 7:45 pm #46

themadkansan wrote: If you're iffy on driving with a weirded-out speedo, just about any GPS dingus will give you real-time MPH display - It's what I have to do in my old Taurus, since the speedo in it is one of the last cable-driven ones they put in production vehicles, and it's got a 'catch' in it - something hangs up and slaps the needle all the way over, so I'm doing anywhere from 50 to 300+ on the highway with the cruise set... 😁
Bouncy catchy sometimes-correct - That's either a trashed cable core and/or an egged-out and trashed cable sheath if you let it go too long - Too bad swapping them over to a sender and digital head is a PITA.  Could be a milder case of what Doc has, though.

Dod's "reading way too high when cold" however, that IS inside the speedo mechanism, most likely some wayward oil or grease that can be flushed out with the appropriate solvent.

There's a permanent magnet spinning on the end of the cable, inside a stamped aluminum cup that's attached to the needle, with dampers to stop vibrations and fine spiral hairsprings to return it to Zero. The magnet induces a drag force in the cup to move the speedo needle.   If you get oil on the end of the magnet it drags on the cup and zings it all the way to the stops - or past the stops and zings the hairsprings, just replace the whole thing.

The Odometer is gear driven with a worm drive off the shaft for the spinning speedo magnet. Some of that grease can do it, it usually migrates out of the end of the drive cable. 
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Joined: September 16th, 2014, 7:01 am

July 12th, 2018, 7:54 pm #47

So Doc: Where's that "Edit" button at?  (1 hour limit to be generous, 10 minutes if that's all they give.) 
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Joined: January 1st, 1970, 12:00 am

July 12th, 2018, 8:00 pm #48

I've tried activating it. It works for me, but I think for the rest of you to get it, we have to upgrade to a "premium" package.

Doc.
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Joined: May 11th, 2004, 4:09 am

July 12th, 2018, 10:51 pm #49

The 200-4r will be fine.  And it can actually be built to handle some decent power.  Just ask the Grand National owners ;)
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Joined: January 1st, 1970, 12:00 am

July 12th, 2018, 11:43 pm #50

I have. 😁 The thing about it is, even a hot Grand National doesn't have a huge amount of torque- and it's high RPM, long-ways-away-from-the-line torque. Not like a big-block Olds that hits it's torque peak (on a stockish cam, anyway) at about 1,800 to 2,200 RPM.

And the GN guys, once they get much past about 300HP, have to put some heavy parts in the 200- Thicker drums, heavier springs, bigger shafts, longer planetaries, etc. A typical pre-smog BBO hits 380HP at the brochure in stock configuration- at some 510ft/lb of torque at around 2,100 RPM.

No, unless you're going to put $3,500 in upgrade parts into a 2004R- and even that's iffy- those need to be left behind fairly mild small-blocks. That same $3,500 into a 700R4, especially the later 32-spline ones, makes a trans that's easily capable of standing up to a fairly stout big-block.

'Course, if I had my druthers (whatever those are) I'd rather have a 4L60 or 4L80- or if money was no object, a newer 6L80. 😁

Not sure I want to throw a $5,000 transmission at a kinda-beater daily driver though... Besides the idea of why bother building a hot big-block when I'm literally just running groceries with it? 😁

Oh, by the way- this popped up on Craigslist a little while ago. 😁 (For posterity's sake, a '65 Rambler Cross country 770 station wagon in pretty good shape, for $2K.)

I was thinking... you know, I have this Chevy 4WD truck frame laying around.... 😁

Doc.
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