Link: Copy link
-As above, yes, it does. Virtually all P-valves do these days. And I'd tried "resetting" it half a dozen times yesterday, all to no avail.Beejay5169 wrote:Your brake proportioning valve doesn't have an anti-leak mechanism in it?
-I called around looking for one yesterday when I started having this issue, and nobody locally sells them. Most of the auto-parts places had never even heard of such a thing.Beejay5169 wrote: It helps if you buy the right one of these little widgets from your auto parts store,
-I was thinking about that. It'll probably be a last-ditch option, but I was thinking I could turn up a sort of adapter fitting that could screw in in place of one of the rear wheel cylinder bleeder screws. For just brute force, I could hook it to compressed air, but I was trying to think of a way that I could better control the pressure. A grease gun would be ideal- and get higher pressures to boot- but of course I don't want to be pumping actual grease into the brake lines.Beejay5169 wrote:Can you block off the rear INLET to the valve, and rig up a tire pump (or some other controllable source of pressure) on the valve OUTLET to (gently) blow the piston forward, off its backseated position?
-Yeah, I've been reading that too. Some people say it's easy, just crack open the opposite side and push the pedal 'til the light goes out, others say there's a "button" you can push to reset, still others say you have to really hammer the pedal to get it to break loose, and still more say they don't reset, or you can't get it to reset.The other internet rumor is that not all PVs can be reset - some need to be replaced once they've tripped. 'It's a safety thing' is the highly technical reason frequently given.