Joined: 4:35 PM - Sep 11, 2014

5:37 AM - Sep 27, 2018 #21

BruceBergman wrote: You are aware all the pictures are missing...?
docsmachine.com and the-whiteboard.com are having server issues.  They should be back up eventually.
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Joined: 11:47 AM - Aug 16, 2016

5:44 AM - Sep 27, 2018 #22

BruceBergman wrote: You are aware all the pictures are missing...?
I bet they're hosted on the same system as the strip since it isn't up either just now.
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Joined: 12:00 AM - Jan 01, 1970

6:05 AM - Sep 27, 2018 #23

Everything was working when I posted it, looks like it went down again...

Hopefully it'll be up in time for tomorrow, but we'll see.

Doc.
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Joined: 7:01 AM - Sep 16, 2014

6:38 AM - Sep 27, 2018 #24

Okay, kinda what I thought, but I wasn't going to start ripping into the page source code.  It can wait till morning, as soon as Doc gets out the bamboo slivers and waterboarding gear...

Bad enough I automatically go to https://isup.me when something won't load ("Nope, it's not just you!") or open a DOS Box and do a tracert to see how far I get...
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Joined: 5:40 PM - Sep 11, 2014

10:15 AM - Sep 27, 2018 #25

i had that issue before i allowed tapatalk through one of my many layers of in browser security... Ghostery specifically...
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Joined: 10:51 PM - Oct 24, 2014

6:03 PM - Sep 27, 2018 #26

BruceBergman wrote: You are aware all the pictures are missing...?
his server hosts the pictures, and the server is off tripping through the daisies at present...  o.O
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Joined: 12:00 AM - Jan 01, 1970

6:36 PM - Oct 05, 2018 #27

Y'allrighty. With the server debacle out of the way and everything back on line, I got some more pix for ya. Just 'cause my site was down doesn't mean I wasn't workin'.

I'd held off painting the main band frame specifically so I could use it as a "jig" of sorts to repair that handle, and I'd toyed with the idea of welding extra tabs or mounts to it in order to mount the VFD or a new belt cover directly to the frame. I've since decided the VFD will stay on the base, and there's already some threaded holes for the old belt cover (as shoddy as it was) which meant it was time for paint.



And while that was drying, I started assembling the pivot parts, which had been cleaned and painted... er, some months ago...



And a couple days later, when the frame was sufficiently dry, I got'er bolted back together.



The frame and pivot assembly is then completed by the addition of the front arch support. That more or less completes the chassis.



So then the newly-painted handle goes on...



And the sliding weight and mounting bar get cleaned up, the surface rust buffed off, and a quick coat of paint before being bolted on as well.



The rear spring bracket, that I made back when I first got the saw, as the original had been broken...



And she's looking a lot more like a bandsaw now!



Stand by, more to come!

Doc.
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Joined: 11:09 AM - Nov 17, 2014

8:39 PM - Oct 05, 2018 #28

I like your no nonsense gray paint. But I'm not certain about using safety red on the handle. I associate that colour with safety switches, emergency stops and so on, not a handle you use in the normal operation of the machine.
But I guess as long as it's not yellow it's not too bad...
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Joined: 12:00 AM - Jan 01, 1970

7:23 AM - Oct 06, 2018 #29

And now, finally, one of the biggest things that always tweaked my machine-OCD on this bandsaw. At some point in this beasts' storied history, some knucklehead somehow managed to snap off one of the blade guide arms, breaking the casting at the top bend behind the clamping screw.

They then tried to weld it, with what appears to be a combination of MIG and stick.



Either that or the repair weld broke, and they rewelded it with a different process, whatever. Whichever the order of blasphemy, the upshot is that, while it held, and worked, to a degree, it was a terrible welding job and godawful ugly.

Well, I've kept an ear out for a replacement for many years now, and have never run across one, so I guess I gotta fix this one.

Now, while the arm held, and appeared to clamp fairly firmly, after sandblasting the layers of old paint off, several cracks were revealed.





So I got the grinder out to see how deep this particular rabbit hole goes, little realizing that "hole" in this case was not metaphorical.



Yep, clearly some of the original metal was lost in the breakage, and subsequent attempts to reweld likely didn't even bother to grind off the old welds, leaving gaping holes inside. And digging in with the die grinder just spalled even more off- metal that had clearly been long-since cracked, and only held in place by plastered layers of weld on top.



I dug out as much of the rift as I dared with the die grinder, and never did find the bottom. But in this case, as I'll soon be digging in from the opposite side, as long as I could get it filled with clean weld, I could attack the rest of the crack later.



Piling in about a stick and a half of the rather expensive Muggy rod, managed to seal the rift nicely. There was the occasional porosity, which I ground back out and rewelded, but I was able to get what I thought was a fairly decent weld in there.



On the opposite side, the piled weld was so thick I was able to use a thin wheel and cut much of it off in a single lump.



After which, it was the same game. Grind down the excess...



Gouge the crack out with the die grinder...



And butter it back over with the Muggy.



After that, it was back to the grinding station to smooth it all back down to something resembling the original contours.



Looks good so far, right? Well, we're not quite done just yet...! 😁

Doc.
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Joined: 11:09 AM - Nov 17, 2014

7:50 AM - Oct 06, 2018 #30

That crack had rust inside?
If ever there's a hell reserved for those who do bodgejobs...  
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