Joined: December 7th, 2014, 5:43 am

August 29th, 2018, 7:38 pm #71

Go a quick route with it: add some copper or textured aluminum tape around the edges. Either just as an accent or trim it into something like those fleur-de-lis box corners.
Would make it look like a captured glass port.
And with a quick sandblast or fine sandpaper to matte up the bottom or backside, could still diffuse a light from below or behind.
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Joined: August 16th, 2016, 11:47 am

August 29th, 2018, 9:22 pm #72

Re: B/W CRT .please make sure fingers can't get to the 2nd anode connections when it's running. Maybe a decorative brass screen?
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Joined: January 11th, 2016, 8:57 pm

August 29th, 2018, 9:57 pm #73

tcurt wrote: Also, I am brushing the copper with steel wool to shine it up nicely, is there any kind of coating that can keep it that way? Online searches seem to be dead-ends with them all telling me to soak it in vinegar once in awhile. I am looking for more of a varnish.
If you can find a (musical) instrument repairer, ask them what they use as a laquer on their brass instruments. It's tough, and the brass doesn't oxidize even after several decades. (It cost a friend an arm and a leg to get a second-hand horn repaired and relaquered, but he was told most of the cost was labor for removing the old laquer before polishing and recoating.)
Breakfast.com halted. Cereal port not ready.
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Joined: January 20th, 2016, 3:38 pm

August 29th, 2018, 11:09 pm #74

tcurt wrote:
August 29th, 2018, 6:56 pm
But in the specific case of the silver fittings (Nickel-plated Brass I believe) that is on purpose, the aesthtic with the pump and reservoir is clear/silver to contrast the brass/copper fittings all around it. At least that was the idea, so far no one really likes it but me. An artist friend of mine even asked if something could be done with the sterile/medical style pump. Problem is it looks so COOL.

I am considering finishing it with an amber/resin look but then the reservoir stands out. My plan all along has been to play with lights perhaps I can add some yellow/red LEDs around them.. but that block is going to be clear and non-diffuse so.. perhaps sticking a bunch of copper tape to it? Blah.
Maybe use something else here and save this one for a cyberpunk build?

What I find most out of place is actually the thermometer. I'd think a high-voltage steam-driven contraption would need a bit more precision than a few floats suspended in water can provide.
Knowledge is not as simple as having the right answers. Knowledge is a way of finding them.
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Joined: August 20th, 2018, 6:23 pm

August 30th, 2018, 3:58 am #75

cyberpunk? fun genre but no real yen to make one :)

The thermometer is one of my favorite pieces! It's unique, I've never seen one on another steampunk build but everyone (with .. okay one exception) agrees it fits.
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Joined: January 20th, 2016, 3:38 pm

August 30th, 2018, 11:21 pm #76

It also has the problem of being an atmosphere thermometer in an application with asymmetrical heating. If you want to measure the device's own temperature, you need something that can act as a calorimeter.
Knowledge is not as simple as having the right answers. Knowledge is a way of finding them.
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Joined: August 20th, 2018, 6:23 pm

August 31st, 2018, 1:23 am #77

FishPreferred wrote: It also has the problem of being an atmosphere thermometer in an application with asymmetrical heating. If you want to measure the device's own temperature, you need something that can act as a calorimeter.
It is purely cosmetic. I have a thermocouple in direct contact with the coolant for actual temperature.
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Joined: August 20th, 2018, 6:23 pm

August 31st, 2018, 5:44 pm #78

Have been working with a friend of mine at work who does our 3D models (and is also a fellow R/C aircraft/tinkerer) to make boiler-style risers for the plasma balls. Some initial brainstorming and then the first 3D print of the vision I'm going for looks good.

The idea is to have two of them on either side holding working plasma balls in them. boiler_design.png layout_1.PNG test_fit_1.png
Initial look is definitely a good fit, just want to add some texture to it and not quite sure if I should paint it at all. Planning to put a cotton ball or something in the front and embed some LEDs for a nice diffuse glow, maybe even go for some kind of fire effect.

In further news I've finnaly figured out how I'm going to mount the B/W CRT! It came to me in a flash while I was test fitting the boilers... that's your clue :) I will see how well it works/looks before I do any reveal on that.
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Joined: August 20th, 2018, 6:23 pm

September 5th, 2018, 5:50 pm #79

With regard to the CRT anode, I'm deciding I need to route it beneath the build deck because the controller board is god-awful ugly and bright green. In order to do that I have to sever the anode wire and re-attach it. I know it's a high-voltage line and I have some suitable shielded single-conductor cabling for it, but does anyone know of a maximum length it can be and/or does it matter?

I will be shielding the entire back of the CRT with some (hopefully copper-colored) find mesh/grating if I can source something stiff/large enough, any lines on a suitable [low cost] material would be appreciated as well.
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Joined: August 16th, 2016, 11:47 am

September 5th, 2018, 6:19 pm #80

I've worked on bunches of CRT displays. I'd worry about a stray leak more than run length. And static charges. Low(ish) current so magnetic fields from the 2nd anode shouldn't be a problem.
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