My terrible terrible bolt conundrum

My terrible terrible bolt conundrum

Joined: April 18th, 2005, 4:54 pm

March 7th, 2017, 1:59 pm #1

Well, as I was posting on Patreon, my efforts to remove this damn bolt in my cylinder head have gone amusingly bad.
But I can confirm a couple of small points.

A carbide bull-nosed burr can definitely cut through an ez-out.

A custom turned drill-guide will make it nice and centered, worked GREAT.

When you get past the bottom of the offending ez-out, the rest of it just falls right out.

A carbide burr in that kind of situation, breaking through into open material, sometimes can wedge and break.

I now have about a 1/4" length of a 1/8" diameter carbide burr wedged in the bottom of an even deeper hole.

Alum really doesn't work if you can only apply a few drops at a time, evaporates too quick when you add heat.

-Hans
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Joined: February 9th, 2017, 10:02 am

March 7th, 2017, 2:06 pm #2

.... what is is a cylinder head from?


(apologies if you've already said)
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Joined: April 18th, 2005, 4:54 pm

March 7th, 2017, 2:25 pm #3

Toyota 4AGE in my 1988 MR2

Next attempt will involve diamond burr and heat.
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Joined: December 26th, 2014, 2:27 am

March 7th, 2017, 3:09 pm #4

Well, as I was posting on Patreon, my efforts to remove this damn bolt in my cylinder head have gone amusingly bad.
But I can confirm a couple of small points.

A carbide bull-nosed burr can definitely cut through an ez-out.

A custom turned drill-guide will make it nice and centered, worked GREAT.

When you get past the bottom of the offending ez-out, the rest of it just falls right out.

A carbide burr in that kind of situation, breaking through into open material, sometimes can wedge and break.

I now have about a 1/4" length of a 1/8" diameter carbide burr wedged in the bottom of an even deeper hole.

Alum really doesn't work if you can only apply a few drops at a time, evaporates too quick when you add heat.

-Hans
is just leaving the carbide corpse in place, with maybe a slightly
shortened new bolt, an option?
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Joined: April 18th, 2005, 4:54 pm

March 7th, 2017, 3:15 pm #5

Functional but tacky is still functional, but the actual threads don't start until fairly far into the hole, and I'm just barely at thread depth right now.

-Hans
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Joined: February 9th, 2017, 10:02 am

March 7th, 2017, 3:15 pm #6

Toyota 4AGE in my 1988 MR2

Next attempt will involve diamond burr and heat.
....ok so it's something special, fair enough, it's worth expending the effort. I was going to say it's time to hit fleabay for a replacement head. I guess there is also the personal satisfaction to be had as well.






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Joined: April 15th, 2003, 12:28 pm

March 7th, 2017, 3:25 pm #7

Well, as I was posting on Patreon, my efforts to remove this damn bolt in my cylinder head have gone amusingly bad.
But I can confirm a couple of small points.

A carbide bull-nosed burr can definitely cut through an ez-out.

A custom turned drill-guide will make it nice and centered, worked GREAT.

When you get past the bottom of the offending ez-out, the rest of it just falls right out.

A carbide burr in that kind of situation, breaking through into open material, sometimes can wedge and break.

I now have about a 1/4" length of a 1/8" diameter carbide burr wedged in the bottom of an even deeper hole.

Alum really doesn't work if you can only apply a few drops at a time, evaporates too quick when you add heat.

-Hans
no tacos
__
Designer / maker of Jeep gauges and assorted automotive bits and baubles.
TeamADW.com
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Joined: April 18th, 2005, 4:54 pm

March 7th, 2017, 3:55 pm #8

It's actually for a cam retaining cap that I was in the process of re-assembling and did something stupid that torqued about half the bolt off.

I was trying to avoid removing the head because I didn't want to disturb any more than I have to. The more you dig, the more you want to dig, and those 'might as well' things add up fast in both time and cost.

I mean, if I have to pull the head, it's not THAT much more to just pull the whole damn engine. And I happen to have a later motor in my garage already that has 40% more power and is a drop-in swap. Just that I'd want to do new gaskets on that one and a new clutch while its out. I'm honestly leaning toward this direction right now.

-Hans
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Joined: February 26th, 2015, 2:02 pm

March 7th, 2017, 4:08 pm #9

Well, as I was posting on Patreon, my efforts to remove this damn bolt in my cylinder head have gone amusingly bad.
But I can confirm a couple of small points.

A carbide bull-nosed burr can definitely cut through an ez-out.

A custom turned drill-guide will make it nice and centered, worked GREAT.

When you get past the bottom of the offending ez-out, the rest of it just falls right out.

A carbide burr in that kind of situation, breaking through into open material, sometimes can wedge and break.

I now have about a 1/4" length of a 1/8" diameter carbide burr wedged in the bottom of an even deeper hole.

Alum really doesn't work if you can only apply a few drops at a time, evaporates too quick when you add heat.

-Hans
This may be an incredibly stupid idea, but carbide is brittle, have you though about just shattering it, and pouring the resulting pieces out of the hole? If you have a deep freeze, stick the head in there for a couple hours, then, pull it out, and hit the offending burr with a center punch.

Any obvious reason not to try?
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Joined: April 18th, 2005, 4:54 pm

March 7th, 2017, 4:17 pm #10

It's far enough into the 1/8" hole that it drilled, and the tip of my punch wouldn't reach it.

-Hans
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