more marker work...HALP!!

more marker work...HALP!!

OmniMech
OmniMech

April 14th, 2012, 9:10 am #1

After paying off several bills, I found myself in posession of some extra cash. A quick trip to the local pro shop, and i got a reg and ASA for my race gun project. After installing the parts and checking for leaks, I attempted to cycle the marker. My hard work on this shamelessly kit bashed autococker was rewarded with...nothing.

The CP reg is opened up...not all the way, but enough to let air flow into the marker. The LPR was opened until it started to hiss, then the set screw was turned 'in' one quarter turn. And still, the marker will not fully cycle. When I try to fire it, the sear releases the hammer just fine, but the block barely twitches. I switched out rams and tried a different one, but no luck.

On the bottom of the solenoid (This is an Eblade 1, so the solenoid IS exposed, as opposed to the Eblade 2's enclosed solenoid) is an orange button that, when pressed, fully cycles the cocking action.

Not having the instruction manual on hand, I did manage to change the factory default settings on the 1.10 board, checking the Factory Slow, Medium, and Fast settings and still not getting the marker to fully cycle.

The grip and solenoid/pneumatic block were removed from an older eblade, and worked flawlessly on that marker.

What could be causing the issue? All the parts are in good condition, theres no excess grease or old gummy oil on anything...the cocking action cycles when the solenoid 'test' button is pressed, so I dont think its the LPR or Ram. Could the board be giving out?
Doc...still got that Eblade 2 kit, should all else fail?
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MarkT
MarkT

April 14th, 2012, 3:10 pm #2

Some ASAs have issues with some tanks, as in the pin in the ASA doesn't push the pin in the tank in far enough to actually allow air to enter. So first thing to check is to see if air is even getting in. Second would be to check that air is getting through the reg. Maybe some part is stuck there.
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OmniMech
OmniMech

April 14th, 2012, 4:37 pm #3

Yep, the marker is getting ample air to do its job. Press the Test button on the solenoid, and it cycles neat as you please. What it doesn't do, is fully cycle when you hit the trigger.
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Doc Nickel
Doc Nickel

April 14th, 2012, 10:08 pm #4

After paying off several bills, I found myself in posession of some extra cash. A quick trip to the local pro shop, and i got a reg and ASA for my race gun project. After installing the parts and checking for leaks, I attempted to cycle the marker. My hard work on this shamelessly kit bashed autococker was rewarded with...nothing.

The CP reg is opened up...not all the way, but enough to let air flow into the marker. The LPR was opened until it started to hiss, then the set screw was turned 'in' one quarter turn. And still, the marker will not fully cycle. When I try to fire it, the sear releases the hammer just fine, but the block barely twitches. I switched out rams and tried a different one, but no luck.

On the bottom of the solenoid (This is an Eblade 1, so the solenoid IS exposed, as opposed to the Eblade 2's enclosed solenoid) is an orange button that, when pressed, fully cycles the cocking action.

Not having the instruction manual on hand, I did manage to change the factory default settings on the 1.10 board, checking the Factory Slow, Medium, and Fast settings and still not getting the marker to fully cycle.

The grip and solenoid/pneumatic block were removed from an older eblade, and worked flawlessly on that marker.

What could be causing the issue? All the parts are in good condition, theres no excess grease or old gummy oil on anything...the cocking action cycles when the solenoid 'test' button is pressed, so I dont think its the LPR or Ram. Could the board be giving out?
Doc...still got that Eblade 2 kit, should all else fail?
Try a different battery. The EBlades started acting a bit wonky when the battery went low, and more than a few people mistook the problems for mechanical issues, trying to readjust regs or tweak the sear to "fix" it.

Doc.
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James1981
James1981

April 15th, 2012, 5:48 pm #5

After paying off several bills, I found myself in posession of some extra cash. A quick trip to the local pro shop, and i got a reg and ASA for my race gun project. After installing the parts and checking for leaks, I attempted to cycle the marker. My hard work on this shamelessly kit bashed autococker was rewarded with...nothing.

The CP reg is opened up...not all the way, but enough to let air flow into the marker. The LPR was opened until it started to hiss, then the set screw was turned 'in' one quarter turn. And still, the marker will not fully cycle. When I try to fire it, the sear releases the hammer just fine, but the block barely twitches. I switched out rams and tried a different one, but no luck.

On the bottom of the solenoid (This is an Eblade 1, so the solenoid IS exposed, as opposed to the Eblade 2's enclosed solenoid) is an orange button that, when pressed, fully cycles the cocking action.

Not having the instruction manual on hand, I did manage to change the factory default settings on the 1.10 board, checking the Factory Slow, Medium, and Fast settings and still not getting the marker to fully cycle.

The grip and solenoid/pneumatic block were removed from an older eblade, and worked flawlessly on that marker.

What could be causing the issue? All the parts are in good condition, theres no excess grease or old gummy oil on anything...the cocking action cycles when the solenoid 'test' button is pressed, so I dont think its the LPR or Ram. Could the board be giving out?
Doc...still got that Eblade 2 kit, should all else fail?
As Doc said change/check battery, check that the wiring is correct and connected properly. Change the setting to classic (hold in the trigger the back block stays back), if the back block still doesnt move then the wires to the solenoid or the solenoid is bad, the orange button is a mechanical pilot so the spool is good. Only other thing is you said something about race gun, if it is a race gun board I think they were design for a lower voltage (5v) solenoid so wont supply the required voltage (6v), as I said I dont know what voltages these boards put out so could be barking up the wrong tree.
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B
B

April 15th, 2012, 6:30 pm #6

Try a different battery. The EBlades started acting a bit wonky when the battery went low, and more than a few people mistook the problems for mechanical issues, trying to readjust regs or tweak the sear to "fix" it.

Doc.
they also have the moststable9v output
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Bruce Bergman
Bruce Bergman

April 15th, 2012, 7:47 pm #7

... When a holder-pack of 6 AAA batteries isn't that much bigger and packs a lot more energy - and a Whole Lot more available milliamps of surge capacity.

You're trying to do Real Work (pull up that solenoid valve multiple times) with a battery pack that was specifically designed to drive nothing bigger than a speaker cone on a cheap radio - they simply don't have the current sourcing capacity.

The modern 9V has 6 LR61 cells inside that are roughly equivalent to a AAAA. Alkaline, maybe 500 mAH.

A decent Alkaline AAA jumps to 1000 or 1200 mAH capacity - huge difference.
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nerobro
nerobro

April 16th, 2012, 11:10 am #8

Yeah. Tripping a sear doesn't take a lot of power, but it needs HUGE surge current. The solution to reliabaly trip a spyder sear thirty times a second needed one magic item. HUGE AMP HOURS. My solution was to run a 1800 (state of the art..) mah nimh battery pack under my tank cover. It was protected there, it was comfy. It never moved. And I could run my spyder without the cap on the board! Ponder that...

And... put your battery in your tank cover.
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Stevo011
Stevo011

April 16th, 2012, 11:30 am #9

... When a holder-pack of 6 AAA batteries isn't that much bigger and packs a lot more energy - and a Whole Lot more available milliamps of surge capacity.

You're trying to do Real Work (pull up that solenoid valve multiple times) with a battery pack that was specifically designed to drive nothing bigger than a speaker cone on a cheap radio - they simply don't have the current sourcing capacity.

The modern 9V has 6 LR61 cells inside that are roughly equivalent to a AAAA. Alkaline, maybe 500 mAH.

A decent Alkaline AAA jumps to 1000 or 1200 mAH capacity - huge difference.
At the moment I am putting together an upgrade that allows you to run a marker on 2 x AAA 1000mah batteries or 2 x AAA 2700mah's. Reason for this is that I am doing a conversion on an old VM-68 and have a Mac43 4Watt Solenoid which sucks power ! lol

Should have the first Prototype up and running in a weeks time.
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OmniMech
OmniMech

April 18th, 2012, 11:30 pm #10

As Doc said change/check battery, check that the wiring is correct and connected properly. Change the setting to classic (hold in the trigger the back block stays back), if the back block still doesnt move then the wires to the solenoid or the solenoid is bad, the orange button is a mechanical pilot so the spool is good. Only other thing is you said something about race gun, if it is a race gun board I think they were design for a lower voltage (5v) solenoid so wont supply the required voltage (6v), as I said I dont know what voltages these boards put out so could be barking up the wrong tree.
The majority of the marker (body, feedneck, bolt) is from an original Race Gun. As I could never get the damnable thing timed properly (You adjust the hammer lug AND the sear), and since the stock battery was dying and wouldn't hold a charge for love or money...I ended up pulling the grip and front block, and swapping in the grip, front block, solenoid, and LPR from an Eblade 1.10.

I think, with some extra time I have this week, Im going to check the connections on the board and the wiring to the solenoid. And Im going to skip the Bargain Bin 9volts and go for something worth its salt.
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