Coold weather sealant?

Coold weather sealant?

Renegade_Azzy
Renegade_Azzy

January 4th, 2012, 4:40 am #1

Ive got some patch work to do on my floor, to get it inspected. Come summer it will be a full proper repair, new floors aft to stern, but till then...

Is tehre a floor sealant that will adhear to metal in cold temps? Its 18 right now, and expected to be in the mid 30's tomorrow. I can set the car up to warm some to help it along, but that can only happen so long (unless I prop a space heater in there or something, which doent sound like a great idea, but I have had worse).
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CameraGuy
CameraGuy

January 4th, 2012, 11:33 am #2

Rivets to keep some sheet metal in place, with tar (or another sealant) sandwiched in between the metal and your floor. The riveted plate should keep the sealant from going anywhere.
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Doc Nickel
Doc Nickel

January 4th, 2012, 1:41 pm #3

Ive got some patch work to do on my floor, to get it inspected. Come summer it will be a full proper repair, new floors aft to stern, but till then...

Is tehre a floor sealant that will adhear to metal in cold temps? Its 18 right now, and expected to be in the mid 30's tomorrow. I can set the car up to warm some to help it along, but that can only happen so long (unless I prop a space heater in there or something, which doent sound like a great idea, but I have had worse).
To pass inspection? What inspection? Is it a sealant just to, say, keep exhaust fumes from getting into the car? Or is it a structural thing to keep your feet from Flintstoning?

If it's just the exhaust type sealant, and it'll all be removed for a proper job later, you might try the spray foam insulation, that yellow "Great Stuff" foam from Home Depot.

You'll have to spray it on, let it cure, then trim it down, or try to weight it so the foam expands "outside", but either way, you'll have a reasonably airtight, watertight seal.

I did it to the trunk floor of my Cutlass. A leaky rear window seal let water flood in over the years, and while it didn't linger- thanks in part to the cutaway fenderwells- it still ruusted the floor badly, and it was full of holes ranging from pin to gaping.

I'll be replacing it all, either with a stamped trunk floor kit, or just raw sheetmetal (since I'm not trying for a restoration) but that won't be 'til summer. So for the time being, I filled as many holes as I could with the spray foam, to keep out any road spray or debris, and to cut down on the road noise. (I said some of the holes were "gaping".)

It made a big difference on that latter point, actually, though when you open the trunk, it looks like a giant diarrhetic turkey spent a week in there, but hey, it works for now.

Doc.
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Renegade_Azzy
Renegade_Azzy

January 4th, 2012, 2:20 pm #4

I plan on doing a full floor re-weld, while stiffening the frame at the same time. A somewhat ambitious project, but something I dont have the garage or the cash for at the moment. I can work in the cold, but the chassis coating I have to go on all that steel wont cure in these temps.

And I like my fingers.

I can try the foam, but have to really make it look like it isnt there. I have some sheet metal (yay old computer cases!) to put down, but they have been gettin picky about that stuff in PA, which I think is a way for a cash strapped state to try and get tax revenue, and justify jobs.

Th hard part... finding decent enough metal to attach to...
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Renegade_Azzy
Renegade_Azzy

January 5th, 2012, 4:58 am #5

To pass inspection? What inspection? Is it a sealant just to, say, keep exhaust fumes from getting into the car? Or is it a structural thing to keep your feet from Flintstoning?

If it's just the exhaust type sealant, and it'll all be removed for a proper job later, you might try the spray foam insulation, that yellow "Great Stuff" foam from Home Depot.

You'll have to spray it on, let it cure, then trim it down, or try to weight it so the foam expands "outside", but either way, you'll have a reasonably airtight, watertight seal.

I did it to the trunk floor of my Cutlass. A leaky rear window seal let water flood in over the years, and while it didn't linger- thanks in part to the cutaway fenderwells- it still ruusted the floor badly, and it was full of holes ranging from pin to gaping.

I'll be replacing it all, either with a stamped trunk floor kit, or just raw sheetmetal (since I'm not trying for a restoration) but that won't be 'til summer. So for the time being, I filled as many holes as I could with the spray foam, to keep out any road spray or debris, and to cut down on the road noise. (I said some of the holes were "gaping".)

It made a big difference on that latter point, actually, though when you open the trunk, it looks like a giant diarrhetic turkey spent a week in there, but hey, it works for now.

Doc.
I got under the seats (IE, pulled them) and unde that carpet. there has been a lot of bondo work, some of it is chipping up. So I cut some patches, forgoed the DocCAD, and will wait till tomorrow to rivet and drill, as i dont have a drill at the momrnt that lasts for more than 5 min on a charge.

on the plus side, I found some nice fire resistant foam to use as a sealant, so that should help a bit. Safety(ish) first!
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