Advice on a 3MT drill chuck

Advice on a 3MT drill chuck

Max
Max

April 4th, 2012, 6:10 pm #1

My father in law has a little table top millhttp://www.grizzly.com/products/G8689 that I'm looking to get a drill chuck for. The machine has 3MT tooling and I'm not coming up with a lot of options for drawbar arbors/chucks. Anyone have any advice on a place to order a decent cheap chuck from? (We're not doing any precision work on this little thing) Or a suggestion on what Jacobs taper to get on the arbor and chuck and I'll just slap one together myself.
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MarkT
MarkT

April 4th, 2012, 8:27 pm #2

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dsergison
dsergison

April 5th, 2012, 1:16 am #3

enco link above is to rather high end chuck and arbors or chucks with integral tapers.

fuller price range pages before and after
449 3mt to jt adapters.
451 jt chucks

pick your price point.
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MephitMark
MephitMark

April 5th, 2012, 5:04 am #4

My father in law has a little table top millhttp://www.grizzly.com/products/G8689 that I'm looking to get a drill chuck for. The machine has 3MT tooling and I'm not coming up with a lot of options for drawbar arbors/chucks. Anyone have any advice on a place to order a decent cheap chuck from? (We're not doing any precision work on this little thing) Or a suggestion on what Jacobs taper to get on the arbor and chuck and I'll just slap one together myself.
I have found a local machine tool dealer (www.machtool.com) has listing for #2 & #3 morse taper collets.

And a quick search found that suppler Little Machine Shop http://littlemachineshop.com/default.php) also sells morse collets.

But then Grizzly also sells morse taper to jacobs taper adaptors. Then you select the drill chuck to fit your needs.

http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/Drill-Chu ... -JT1/G8655

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Stevo011
Stevo011

April 5th, 2012, 9:35 am #5

My father in law has a little table top millhttp://www.grizzly.com/products/G8689 that I'm looking to get a drill chuck for. The machine has 3MT tooling and I'm not coming up with a lot of options for drawbar arbors/chucks. Anyone have any advice on a place to order a decent cheap chuck from? (We're not doing any precision work on this little thing) Or a suggestion on what Jacobs taper to get on the arbor and chuck and I'll just slap one together myself.
You can try get hold of the guys at littlemachineshop.com and see if they have in stock orhttp://www.cromwell.co.uk/OSA2802412A nice chuck (currently out of stock), I use this in my machine, yours is the same machine. Sieg in china produce these mills and Grizzly just rebrand them (Sieg X2 Mini Mill)

http://www.siegind.com/products_detail/ ... 66395.html

If you want a CNC retro fit kit, tryhttp://www.cncfusion.com/minimill1.html $579 for the full ball screw kit, for a good price on the cnc electronics try
http://www.kelinginc.net/CNCNEMA23Package3x.html
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Max
Max

April 5th, 2012, 7:06 pm #6

My father in law has a little table top millhttp://www.grizzly.com/products/G8689 that I'm looking to get a drill chuck for. The machine has 3MT tooling and I'm not coming up with a lot of options for drawbar arbors/chucks. Anyone have any advice on a place to order a decent cheap chuck from? (We're not doing any precision work on this little thing) Or a suggestion on what Jacobs taper to get on the arbor and chuck and I'll just slap one together myself.
Looks like I may go the route of buying an arbor and chuck separately. Any one have any advice as to which Jacobs taper to use? I see Enco has 1JT, 2JT and 33JT. I think I've seen 3JT and 33JT as the most common for 3MT tooling. Do any of you have any opinion on picking one taper over another? I'm going to give the FIL a call and see if he has any homeless chucks laying around or an extra one we can pirate off the mini lathe. I know there are a couple laying around with the lathe and that thing almost never gets used. If so and he can figure out the taper on them I'll just buy an arbor to match otherwise I'd like to know what style will be the most useful down the road.
And why why why did you post that link to the CNC conversions for these things? I'd love to convert this thing over but it would be so impractical for me to do. How well does it hold tolerances running NC? I've always just figured it was a wash with the loose screws it has in it stock, but with the new ballscrews etc. do they cut well? If I have to drag that thing down here and stick it in the spare bedroom I will be in SOOO much trouble!
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Deus Machina
Deus Machina

April 6th, 2012, 12:40 am #7

I've never had a Jacobs taper give up when the Morse Taper didn't. Just find a chuck and buy the arbor to match.

I don't even take 'usefulness' into account--arbors are cheap and it's so much easier to change everything out instead of just the chuck, that I consider it permanently mounted.
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Doc Nickel
Doc Nickel

April 6th, 2012, 2:01 am #8

Actually, I fought a cheap arbor/cheap chuck combo for a couple of years. I actually had the chuck fall off the arbor and land- spinning, with a drill bit- practically in my lap.

The two tapers (the male on the arbor and the female in the chuck) were ground incorrectly, and there was only a narrow ring of contact.

I eventually got it reasonably reliable with loctite and a big hammer, but later, when I got the Grizzly, I invested in a real live Jacobs (as in the brand) arbor and a Jacobs 14A "Super Chuck". The chuck, as I recall, was north of $100, and the arbor probably another $40 or so, but it's been 100% reliable and very concentric from day one.

I keep saying it, because I've lived it: Spend a bit more and buy quality tools to start with.

Doc.
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J. Cook
J. Cook

April 6th, 2012, 8:40 pm #9

As I've gotten older, I've become a believer in paying more and crying once for the quality version rather than buying the cheaper version and having it fail, usually right in the middle of something important.
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Max
Max

April 9th, 2012, 3:36 am #10

Actually, I fought a cheap arbor/cheap chuck combo for a couple of years. I actually had the chuck fall off the arbor and land- spinning, with a drill bit- practically in my lap.

The two tapers (the male on the arbor and the female in the chuck) were ground incorrectly, and there was only a narrow ring of contact.

I eventually got it reasonably reliable with loctite and a big hammer, but later, when I got the Grizzly, I invested in a real live Jacobs (as in the brand) arbor and a Jacobs 14A "Super Chuck". The chuck, as I recall, was north of $100, and the arbor probably another $40 or so, but it's been 100% reliable and very concentric from day one.

I keep saying it, because I've lived it: Spend a bit more and buy quality tools to start with.

Doc.
Years ago I was running a batch of grip frames on a drill press. Simple clamp in fixture just left the spindle running when changing between frames. As I was pulling one frame out the chuck fell off the arbor and hit me in the back of the hand. I was wearing nitriles at the time to keep the coolant off of me and the bit wound itself up in the glove as it fell. You can imagine what was going through my head when I jerked my hand back and from the looks of things had a chuck and bit sticking out the back of it. Luckily it just barely nicked me and was simply stuck in the nitrile glove not my hand.
While I'd like to be able to justify spending the money on a quality chuck and arbor the machine doesn't see the use to warrant it hence my wondering if one taper had a better reputation than others.
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