More progress on the DHI reverse bullpup 1377 rifle project

More progress on the DHI reverse bullpup 1377 rifle project

Joined: February 9th, 2006, 10:35 pm

August 6th, 2012, 12:19 am #1

This definitely no James P. SSP level of a project, but it keeps me off the streets!

Haven't got too much done due to real life, but here's an update.
Got the trigger blade finished. The lower portion has had extra brass layers laminated to it (soldered) for about a 3/16" face width. Files, hack saw,belt sander and paper to get it to shape. Used a file and belt sander to remove the rings around the safety button holes and the nubs that located the grip panels. Today I got the slot for the trigger and the hole for the action screw done.

Now to decide how I want to tackle the rest of the inletting. The grip frame is 1/2" thick, but the 1/2" plywood is shade thinner (not many lumber products today actually measure what they're labeled as! lol). Thinking I may run the grip frame (perhaps I should now call it the trigger frame!) over the belt sander a bit more so it will slide right into the pocket once the stock is laminated. Will still have to inlet for the pump tube, but that's easier than digging out the slot for the trigger frame.



http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/t ... le+project


I plink, therefore I am.
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Joined: April 28th, 2010, 12:23 am

August 6th, 2012, 4:10 am #2

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Joined: February 9th, 2006, 10:35 pm

August 6th, 2012, 1:20 pm #3

Glad to know you too, in an impersonal internet kind of way! LOL

The new trigger is made from brass stock from the hobby shop. The thickest they carry is 1/16", but they were out and what I got is just a fuzz under 1/16" by 1/2" wide. I cut the length a little long as I wasn't sure how the stock would turn out. I used a file to take out a little from both the frame and the cover to keep the slot for the trigger roughly centered in the frame. I then soldered a piece of the same brass stock to each side of the trigger blade to end up with almost a 3/16" wide trigger. If I had full 1/16" brass the trigger would be a full 3/16" wide (thick?)
The additional pieces are shorter than the main piece so there is still only the single thickness inside the trigger frame. I kept the slot in the stock very close to the trigger to cut out any side to side wobble that may develop in the trigger.

Hacking up an old pistol grip frame like this for a rifle will allow for the use all the nifty pistol trigger improvement tricks and parts to still be used while giving a more traditional rifle look and feel to the airgun.

I plink, therefore I am.
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Joined: March 1st, 2002, 12:22 am

August 6th, 2012, 6:06 pm #4

This definitely no James P. SSP level of a project, but it keeps me off the streets!

Haven't got too much done due to real life, but here's an update.
Got the trigger blade finished. The lower portion has had extra brass layers laminated to it (soldered) for about a 3/16" face width. Files, hack saw,belt sander and paper to get it to shape. Used a file and belt sander to remove the rings around the safety button holes and the nubs that located the grip panels. Today I got the slot for the trigger and the hole for the action screw done.

Now to decide how I want to tackle the rest of the inletting. The grip frame is 1/2" thick, but the 1/2" plywood is shade thinner (not many lumber products today actually measure what they're labeled as! lol). Thinking I may run the grip frame (perhaps I should now call it the trigger frame!) over the belt sander a bit more so it will slide right into the pocket once the stock is laminated. Will still have to inlet for the pump tube, but that's easier than digging out the slot for the trigger frame.



http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/t ... le+project


I plink, therefore I am.
heheh ran into the same issue. Baltic pirch 9 ply plyywood is  ~.485

I had designed and started cutting a prject, based complelty around the fact that the plywood was 1/2 thick. I got around the aforementioned thickness being too thin by laminating on some matboard on either side (to keep it symmetrical). did the trick, has a couple of cool looking black lines down the "centerline".  Use a lot of glue, as you wnat the matboard to be soaked.

Looking good! keep thepics coming


dr_subsonic's pneumatic research lab

the Lunatic Fringe of American Airgunning
Southwest Montana's headquarters for Airgunning Supremacy
Proud Sponsor of team_subsonic
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Joined: February 9th, 2006, 10:35 pm

August 6th, 2012, 6:30 pm #5

... lumber yard. Got several upset customers complaining 2x4's didn't measure 2x4 or the 1/2" plywood wasn't 1/2".
I've run into this before and just use a chisel to scrape away a little on each side. I may end up doing this one the old fashioned way too.
Great idea about the matt board though. i've thought about doing similar, but couldn't come up with something thin to use that would work with wood glue.

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Joined: March 1st, 2002, 12:22 am

August 6th, 2012, 6:59 pm #6

found that out in high school (and not once in a year of industrial arts did they mention that....) when I was on stage crew for out school's prodcution of Godspell. We used some saw horses as part of the set (which evolved thru the perfromance) and my job was to build the horses. Drew it all up, cut out the wood, and _nothing_ fit right. It was at that moment that I understood the versitility of the phrase "WTF"

dr_subsonic's pneumatic research lab

the Lunatic Fringe of American Airgunning
Southwest Montana's headquarters for Airgunning Supremacy
Proud Sponsor of team_subsonic
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Joined: April 23rd, 2012, 11:10 pm

August 6th, 2012, 8:52 pm #7

But that's measured at the rough cut.
After they're cut to 2x4, they're milled to finish.
If you buy unfinished rough cuts, you'll get an actual 2x4.

Now, how big is a 1/2 pipe ?

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Joined: March 1st, 2002, 12:22 am

August 6th, 2012, 8:56 pm #8

so 1/2 PVC stuff is gonna be around 3/4 OD. Learned that the hardwway too

dr_subsonic's pneumatic research lab

the Lunatic Fringe of American Airgunning
Southwest Montana's headquarters for Airgunning Supremacy
Proud Sponsor of team_subsonic
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Joined: February 9th, 2006, 10:35 pm

August 7th, 2012, 9:25 am #9

But that's measured at the rough cut.
After they're cut to 2x4, they're milled to finish.
If you buy unfinished rough cuts, you'll get an actual 2x4.

Now, how big is a 1/2 pipe ?
But try to explain that an irate customer who thinks you cheated them! lol

I plink, therefore I am.
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