I thought that I had a handle on this then when making two attempts at a reamer that were soft I near gave up not really
Third one worked but I would love to have someone experienced walk 'us' through the process.
oh yes what the project required was a long reamer made to open the barrel to just past the transfer port and then give a nice 5 degree leade to the rifling.
What made all this tricky was the barrel is in the receiver of a B51 BAM PCP and I did not want to remove that barrel.
pellets loaded very rough and showed major smears on the skirts. Kodiaks loaded real rough.
So reamed the free bore to 0.228" then made up a tapered reamer with a 5 degree nose and a 0.2275" straight guiding section.
If I make another go at this it will be an all in one piloted reamer.
Access to a surface grinder and either
a Harig head or a decent indexable
5C collet fixture?
If so, I will make a drawing for you for a
reamer that will do the job for you.
I can save it as a jpeg and post it here or
as a pdf and e-mail either to you.
Since you are removing very little material,
I would make a two flute reamer.With pilot
as you wished.
I do need to know how deep you need
to reach since you are not removing the barrel.
Sorry, read your post again, and saw that you were able
to get what you wanted cut.
What are you having problems with?
the heat treat of the reamer?
Was it a cutting edge relief, rake angle or an edge clearance
I would like to help.
Usually drill rod, ( oil hardening tool steel)
is easy to get hard, and would more than likely not require tempering.
I am sure you must have been able to get the tool hard,
because it sounds like you got the breech end cut.
I am curious if it was not cutting properly,
if it was not just a cutting edge geometry
On the first tries, was the cutting edges breaking down?
I can tell allot by looking at a tool after it is used
as to why it is not cuting properly.
Like I said I would just like to help here.