Will
Stingray
Stingray
Joined: April 29th, 2009, 8:48 pm

September 10th, 2009, 10:02 pm #11

That's why I said use the heater for smaller tanks, they come in handy for winter :)
P0RN!!!
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No-One
White Shark
White Shark
Joined: May 15th, 2009, 11:43 pm

September 10th, 2009, 10:09 pm #12

I just don't want to drop the water level down.
African ciochlids FTW!!!
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4 gal: Male marble red and white betta
46 gal: 3 2 Yellow lab Cichlids
3 red zebra cichlids (I think one is a peacock, a mistake by Petsmart)
2 yellowtailed Acei
2 Kenyi
1 Bumblebee
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Will
Stingray
Stingray
Joined: April 29th, 2009, 8:48 pm

September 10th, 2009, 10:12 pm #13

You shouldn't have to, just avoid setting the temp too high or the heater may get stressed and get a variety of diseases from ich to cable rot. Actually, overworking the heater will probably just increase how long it takes to heat up the tank, so avoid making water changes colder than they have to be.
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Tigerpuffer
Kohaku Koi
Kohaku Koi
Joined: April 28th, 2009, 11:06 am

September 10th, 2009, 10:16 pm #14

Ben get Mosquitofish, they are awesome. If i remember, thats one thing me and Will agree on :ROFL:
-Tig
~~~~~~~~~~~:>--<
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No-One
White Shark
White Shark
Joined: May 15th, 2009, 11:43 pm

September 10th, 2009, 10:19 pm #15

well, it's a Baby Biorb (like this, minus the plants: http://www.biorbfishtanks.com/ProductIm ... -small.jpg (I'm spotting four WCMs lol)), so for the heater to be straight and work properly (you need a special heater for it) it needs to be lower without being fully emersed.
African ciochlids FTW!!!
[+] Spoiler
4 gal: Male marble red and white betta
46 gal: 3 2 Yellow lab Cichlids
3 red zebra cichlids (I think one is a peacock, a mistake by Petsmart)
2 yellowtailed Acei
2 Kenyi
1 Bumblebee
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Will
Stingray
Stingray
Joined: April 29th, 2009, 8:48 pm

September 10th, 2009, 10:25 pm #16

Ah, I see....
Is it designed to have a lower and higher water level?
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No-One
White Shark
White Shark
Joined: May 15th, 2009, 11:43 pm

September 10th, 2009, 10:28 pm #17

Well, the level has to be above the bubbler tube (the round thing in the middle) for oxygen to flow through the water. I normally try to keep it where the pic is.
African ciochlids FTW!!!
[+] Spoiler
4 gal: Male marble red and white betta
46 gal: 3 2 Yellow lab Cichlids
3 red zebra cichlids (I think one is a peacock, a mistake by Petsmart)
2 yellowtailed Acei
2 Kenyi
1 Bumblebee
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Will
Stingray
Stingray
Joined: April 29th, 2009, 8:48 pm

September 10th, 2009, 10:47 pm #18

Hmmm.... I would recommend either:
A: lower the water level
B: Get mosquitofish instead
C: Possibly one of my best recommendations Nawth, get a dwarf puffer. Loads of personality, will eat pellets, and will learn to recognize you and beg.

Unfortunately, unless you can keep the temp above 75 degrees, dropping below for a week per month max, you're going to have problems.
P0RN!!!
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No-One
White Shark
White Shark
Joined: May 15th, 2009, 11:43 pm

September 11th, 2009, 1:45 pm #19

Well think about it, people keep Bettas in non-filtered glass fishbowls, it'd probably survive in a filtered 4 gallon.

and I don't think I could switch to a dwarf puffer, I don't think that tanks adapted to be saltwater.
African ciochlids FTW!!!
[+] Spoiler
4 gal: Male marble red and white betta
46 gal: 3 2 Yellow lab Cichlids
3 red zebra cichlids (I think one is a peacock, a mistake by Petsmart)
2 yellowtailed Acei
2 Kenyi
1 Bumblebee
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Eoibio
White Shark
White Shark
Joined: April 29th, 2009, 8:32 pm

September 11th, 2009, 4:51 pm #20

Urmm..Indian pea puffer/ dwarf puffers are 1000000% FW No exceptions :) They are actually quite sensitive to salt..apapprently :D They only grow to an inch :) Look amazing...Eat pellets and have A TON of personality :D
75g (mainly) Discus Tank
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x1 Polypterus Delhezi 5''

x 1 African Brown Knifefish 5 1/2''

x 1 Kuhli Loach 5''

x2 Synodontis Eupterus 4''

x 6 Discus 2'' - 6''

x1 Ram 2 1/2''

x2 Kribensis 2'' (M&F)

x1 Peppermint Pikehead 4 1/2''

x2 Empire Goby 2'' & 3''

x1 Nandus Mercatus.
Filteration: Eheim ecco pro and a Eheim proffesional thermo II
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