V8 Oil Pans

V8 Oil Pans

Joined: October 13th, 2014, 1:24 am

November 19th, 2016, 7:57 pm #1

I have a friend that want's me to replace the pan gasket on his 289 V8. I've done this before but I always have issues with the front and rear cork seals. In the past I have cut them to make it easier but I know this is not right and they will soon start to leak again. Has anyone found a way to install the seals properly. There are no specific instructions in the service manuals. Thanks for any tips and advice on this.

Roger List
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Joined: November 7th, 2016, 5:17 pm

November 19th, 2016, 10:34 pm #2

I soak the end pieces in hot water and get them to curve to fit, i use 3 M trim cement on the block side and silicon on pan side, cut two long bolts to use for guide so pan can be pushed straight up and not knock end parts off. it is kind of tricky to say the least
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Joined: October 14th, 2014, 9:10 pm

November 19th, 2016, 10:52 pm #3

I have a friend that want's me to replace the pan gasket on his 289 V8. I've done this before but I always have issues with the front and rear cork seals. In the past I have cut them to make it easier but I know this is not right and they will soon start to leak again. Has anyone found a way to install the seals properly. There are no specific instructions in the service manuals. Thanks for any tips and advice on this.

Roger List
I can remember my dad saying that when they would put a pan gasket on, they would soak those two curved end pieces (not sure what in) and then wrap them on a round surface, he mentioned a can that is the same contour as the oil pan, and then rubber band them there until they stayed in that shape.

Still do not know why someone has come up with a neoprene seal for these oil pans yet - one piece, flexible and less chance for leaks...
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Joined: October 13th, 2014, 1:24 am

November 20th, 2016, 12:28 am #4

Thanks for the replies. I asked someone about this some time ago and he said that he soaks them in some kind of oil or something. I can't remember what it was though. The real problem with the rear seal is that it has to fit into a groove in the main bearing cap. Even if you get it to stay in the groove on each end the loop sticks out of the groove about a quarter inch or so in the middle, so how do you ensure that as the pan is installed the seal is compressed into the groove? I agree with Vern that using long guide pins to ensure the pan goes on straight is a good idea but I'm still concerned that the rear seal might slide off into the pan when it starts compressing into the groove. After all this time I too would have thought someone in the gasket business would have come up with a better solution to the cork end seals.

Roger List
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Joined: October 12th, 2014, 4:39 pm

November 20th, 2016, 1:59 am #5

I have a friend that want's me to replace the pan gasket on his 289 V8. I've done this before but I always have issues with the front and rear cork seals. In the past I have cut them to make it easier but I know this is not right and they will soon start to leak again. Has anyone found a way to install the seals properly. There are no specific instructions in the service manuals. Thanks for any tips and advice on this.

Roger List
done this a million times on my M15 I developed a better way.

First I wrap the cork around a can of the like radius of where it will go to help shape it. I usually leave it like that for a couple of days.

I then coat a thin layer of high temp silicon sealant on all sides of the cork and let dry. This seals the cork so it won't take up oil.

Then I install it using a fixture to hold it in place. The fixture is a strap of metal that mimics the oils pane. When installing i coat the bearing cap with silicon sealant to glue the cork in place.

After the cork silicon sealant has dried I remove the fixture and install the pan gaskets and pan.

BTW, I also coat the pan gaskets and let dry before installing. I also use silicon sealant between gasket and block and gasket and pan.



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Joined: October 12th, 2014, 4:39 pm

November 20th, 2016, 6:24 am #6

Apparently I used the pan gaskets for spacers under the fixtures to get spacing correct.







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Joined: August 9th, 2013, 2:14 am

November 20th, 2016, 7:53 am #7

I have a friend that want's me to replace the pan gasket on his 289 V8. I've done this before but I always have issues with the front and rear cork seals. In the past I have cut them to make it easier but I know this is not right and they will soon start to leak again. Has anyone found a way to install the seals properly. There are no specific instructions in the service manuals. Thanks for any tips and advice on this.

Roger List
I am seeing issues with the main seal. Is there any advice for that bugger?
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Joined: October 12th, 2014, 4:39 pm

November 20th, 2016, 4:08 pm #8

booger but following the service manual is a good start. The issue with the earlier Champions is that there is no component of the seal that prevents it from rotating. Most of us rely on the a little extra sealant in the corner where the seal ends meet. If you put some silicon sealant on the seal ends that would be enough. Also the little rubber rods help with the anti-rotation. And don't forget to lub the seal surface and the crank other wise you'll get a wiff of rubber when you start up and a leaky seal. The other issue is being very careful installing the seal with the crank installed. The seal interface to the block has a very fragile tape seal that appears to be made similar to electrical friction tape. This tape can be easily be scraped off or disturbed and then the seal will leak between the seal and the block. I loosen the main bearing caps a bit to lower the rear of the crank a little so the seal will rotate in easier. No need to loosen the front main bearing cap but make sure you don't drop the rear of the crank to much and damage the front bearing or bend the crank. Also make sure there is no obstruction for the rear main bearing oil to make it's way back to the pan

I've replaced mine a million times and have come to the conclusion that the seal area on the crank was machined a bit to much when the engine was rebuilt. I gave up on the seal and now live with a moderate leak that has recently gotten worse. I have used the oil additive made by Barrs to help the leak and it has helped a lot. I have a fresh engine Ted built up for me to go in when I give completely up on it.

This is from the 2R shop manual because the M shop manual does not mention the seal...





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Joined: August 9th, 2013, 2:14 am

November 20th, 2016, 9:29 pm #9

Not sure if this is something that I will be able to tackle on my own! It is looking like I may have to try though as I have an extreme leak issue in that area from my "newly" rebuild motor. I have had a couple of different shops attempt to fix it with no luck so far.

I will definitely keep this info for future reference if I decide to do it right myself!
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Joined: January 9th, 2016, 1:26 pm

November 21st, 2016, 2:05 am #10

I have a friend that want's me to replace the pan gasket on his 289 V8. I've done this before but I always have issues with the front and rear cork seals. In the past I have cut them to make it easier but I know this is not right and they will soon start to leak again. Has anyone found a way to install the seals properly. There are no specific instructions in the service manuals. Thanks for any tips and advice on this.

Roger List
pan gasket this is what we need for our Studes. It's one piece for both sides and ends, silicone rubber with sleeves for the bolts on the side rails so they can't be over-tightened. I believe it will even fit the older SBC's. I changed one on my 95 K30 because the oil pan rusted out if you can believe that. In the end I changed all the oil cooler lines and everything, but still get a few annoying drips for the stupid cooler lines that have o-rings and snap in retainers. They fix one problem then inject some more with their darn DFA (design for assembly) parts.
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Joined: February 2nd, 2015, 2:39 pm

November 21st, 2016, 3:23 am #11

Not sure if this is something that I will be able to tackle on my own! It is looking like I may have to try though as I have an extreme leak issue in that area from my "newly" rebuild motor. I have had a couple of different shops attempt to fix it with no luck so far.

I will definitely keep this info for future reference if I decide to do it right myself!
Being that there has been a couple of different shops trying to fix it, maybe the pan gasket is not the problem. Maybe the rebuilder left the oil plug out inside the bell housing. I have seen that happen with rebuilders not familiar with Studebaker engines. The oil will leak down the back of the engine and off the rear of the pan. The plug is 1/8 pipe with a screw driver slot.
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Joined: February 2nd, 2015, 2:39 pm

November 21st, 2016, 3:25 am #12

on a V8 engine
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Joined: October 12th, 2014, 4:39 pm

November 21st, 2016, 4:43 am #13

My rebuilder put the rear cam bearing in backwards and lined up the oil hole correctly but that put the bearing back further in the bore. As a result the plug that covers the bearing hole (same type of plug for the casting holes) didn't seal properly so I got a bit of a leak from that...
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Joined: August 9th, 2013, 2:14 am

November 21st, 2016, 4:56 am #14

Being that there has been a couple of different shops trying to fix it, maybe the pan gasket is not the problem. Maybe the rebuilder left the oil plug out inside the bell housing. I have seen that happen with rebuilders not familiar with Studebaker engines. The oil will leak down the back of the engine and off the rear of the pan. The plug is 1/8 pipe with a screw driver slot.
I believe it's the rear main seal. But you mention something that I have not heard of as yet. There's an oil plug inside the bell housing...?
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Joined: October 12th, 2014, 4:39 pm

November 21st, 2016, 6:09 am #15

rear of the engine behind the rear engine plate.

Here is the rear end of the cam with the plug removed. That 1/4 pipe plug nearby plugs up the end of the oil galley:



Another view, upper right corner:

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Joined: August 9th, 2013, 2:14 am

November 22nd, 2016, 5:37 am #16

my oil leak is from directly under the output shaft where the rear main seal is. So, I will focus on that for now and keep you updated as to what I find.
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