The 6105-8110 diver hacking lever, how to tell if yours is correct >>

The 6105-8110 diver hacking lever, how to tell if yours is correct >>

Joined: July 19th, 2008, 3:38 am

April 27th, 2009, 12:09 am #1

6105 hacking lever. How to tell if it should or should not.

Original date of posting: October 14 2005

There is always confusion over which 6105 hacks, the "A", the "B", or both.

First, only the 6105 "B", is capable of hacking. The earlier version of the 6105, the "A", did not nor is it capable of hacking. This is due to the different base plates between the "A" and "B" movments.

The first problem is the winding bridge, where the caliber # is stamped. These are almost universaly interchangable between all 61XX movements. Therefore a "A", could actually be a "B", and vise versa depending on how many "watchmakers" have been in your movement. You can even expect to see bridges marked 6106 and 6119, ect, Because of the interchangability of this part between the 61XX family of movements.

The easiest way to varify which movement you have is to look for the hacking lever through the inspection hole that is provided for adjusting it. This hole is located at the 6 o`clock possition on the bottom of the movement, right under the winding bridge.

Above, I can just see that the lever is there, it is pretty easy to see, as it made out of brass.

A better look from another angle. If you wish, you can watch it move while working the crown, to varify that its not just stuck in there for cosmetics.

Now, if its not visable, its not good. Now the real problem is, "Is it a "B""?

As you`ll see, the "B" is the only one of the two that is actually machined to take the hacking laver, this area is not machined out in the "A", and would be nearly impossible to duplicate with out a very expensive machine.

IN order to varify that your movement is a "B" at this point, the intire top train plate has to be removed, so that the area surrounding the hacking lever can be seen.

Now, in the photo above, I`ve pointed out that the center wheel bridge, is the same used in any of the other 61xx calibers, and they all have this cutout for the hacking lever in them. It is not this cutout that makes the differance. Its the area of THE BASE PLATE, that has been milled out, to provide room for the lever to run in. This is what makes a "B", and is the reason a "A" can not be made into a "B".

Why the big deal you ask?

Because, if you think you are buying a "B", but you get the "A", you will never be able to get the "A" to hack. IN terms of collectability, when you want a "B", only a "B" will do. For instance, if you buy a 6105-8110, and later find that it has a "A" movement in it, you are realy }/////>`ed, if having it hack was a big deal to you.

The following did not address watches that have been franked with a caliber 6106. Because the caliber 6105 (both versions)is so rarely found outside of a complete watch, some unscrupulous sellers may resort to putting a 6106 or 6119 in the watch to sell it as "running". In This case, all of the above is going to prove correct because caliber 6106 is built with the same cutout for the lever. Where Caliber 6106 differes with caliber 6105 is in its date quick set mechanism. Because the 6105 was designed for the divers, it requires a typical first possition turning of the crown to quick set the date. Caliber 6106 is agian a totaly different base plate, and can only be quick set by using a "pushing in" of the crown motion (not good for a diver, hence the different calibers). Again, because the differance between these two calibers is at the base plate leval, a 6106 CAN NOT be converted to a 6105 style of quick set, and so can never be a honest replacement for the 6105.

Again, why the concern?

Because, as I mentioned above, caliber 6105 is almost never found OUTSIDE of a diver. Which means, if you need just the 6105 movement, you may be forced to purchase another complete watch just to get the right movement.

And best regards,

Seikoholic #1
Dr.Seiko, Aka:2manywatches
Specializing in Seikology, Seikotherapy, and other Horological Dis-ease.
Made in the U.S.A.
Last edited by DrSeiko on April 27th, 2009, 12:09 am, edited 1 time in total.