Buster
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Joined: August 17th, 2009, 4:17 pm

May 28th, 2018, 7:45 am #31

Nope you haven't overloaded it, the alternator takes all the load when the engine is running.  The battery only comes into play when you start it or leave stuff switched on after you shut the engine down, let's be honest here an extra 30w of power isn't going to fry your battery it is little more than an indicator or brake light bulb.

Your issue is either with the charging circuit or your battery itself.  If it is a lead acid battery one of the cells could have shorted out.  Over time there is a build up of sludge in the bottom of LA batteries (part of the natural life cycle) which is part of the lead plates being 'electrolysed'.

I would point my finger at the battery I have seen this on a couple of occasions and it has always been the battery.  The best value out there (IMHO) are the sealed gel batteries, they do not decrease in output over life time and are totally maintenance free.

Did you notice it turning over a bit slower each time you started, almost as if the bike was reluctant, then burst into life?  If so that is more evidence for the battery argument.
Eurotrip 2009
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Eurotrip 2011 - Cancelled in favour of a trip to hospital instead!
Eurotrip 2014
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pedro3178
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pedro3178
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Joined: April 9th, 2018, 4:38 pm

May 28th, 2018, 2:30 pm #32

Thanks for that Buster.

I don’t remember the bike being difficult to start , or feel like it didn’t have power to tick over proper. The chap I bought the bike from said he just put a new battery in it as he didn’t have the old one on trickle charge over winter, he had a powerline battery in it, i got a new one from Halfords, a Yuasa one. Everything seemed fine with the bike until I changed those bulbs, they are rated at 12v 55w each and the bike takes 2 H4 bulbs . When removing the old battery it was severely swollen and had melted some of the rubber attached.
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whitetrash
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whitetrash
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Joined: March 10th, 2012, 10:24 pm

May 28th, 2018, 8:18 pm #33

I suspect my battery just went faulty today. Stopped the bike to talk to someone, went to start it again - DEAD. It started at the petrol station down the road just fine, started the rest of the times today, but got home and went to investigate, and DEAD again.The battery was holding 12v, and was charging at 14v, but with the multi meter across the battery terminals, when the starter button was pressed the voltage dropped right off, 12v - 3ish v. Fucked battery. Replaced the battery and it fired right up.

Test the battery voltage with the ignition off, then start the bike and check the charging voltage
This is just part of the challenge of owning a bike 🙂 
A lot of people are like windows, so many are see-through, so many get smashed, and so many wander round
with a glazed look on them. Are you like a window? Is your life a pane?
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Buster
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Joined: August 17th, 2009, 4:17 pm

May 29th, 2018, 7:58 am #34

pedro3178 wrote: Thanks for that Buster.

I don’t remember the bike being difficult to start , or feel like it didn’t have power to tick over proper. The chap I bought the bike from said he just put a new battery in it as he didn’t have the old one on trickle charge over winter, he had a powerline battery in it, i got a new one from Halfords, a Yuasa one. Everything seemed fine with the bike until I changed those bulbs, they are rated at 12v 55w each and the bike takes 2 H4 bulbs . When removing the old battery it was severely swollen and had melted some of the rubber attached.
Yeah but it is not your bulbs causing that, as I said an extra 30 watts won't do that.

You could take it to a battery place like kwik-fit or the like who should be able to test your charging circuit
Eurotrip 2009
Eurotrip 2010
Eurotrip 2011 - Cancelled in favour of a trip to hospital instead!
Eurotrip 2014
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