First scratches!

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First scratches!

dwiputra
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dwiputra
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Joined: April 29th, 2012, 3:19 am

April 30th, 2012, 12:16 pm #1

These scratches was made by me when I really really got my pam. I wanted to change the strap and that was my very first time changing strap on pam and look what I got. Some scratches, It was so bothering me. Immediately I ordered Cape Cod cloth but it didn't remove 100% of scratches. These scratches much better than before I use my cape cod. So, I decided to leave my pam as it is. Maybe I will let local watchmaker to polish my pam when my pam get a lot and nasty scratches, dings, or dent. here the picture of my scratches.



[/IMG]


So, what are you gonna do if your pam have scratches like I mine?. Leave it or vanish it?






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mattymay
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mattymay
Paneristi
Joined: March 4th, 2011, 3:54 pm

April 30th, 2012, 12:29 pm #2

Until you've learned to change straps without scratching the lugs, then polish them out

Dave D (Cordes) from Nottingham, England
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TokyoSkier
Paneristi
Joined: December 1st, 2011, 1:08 pm

April 30th, 2012, 12:40 pm #3

These scratches was made by me when I really really got my pam. I wanted to change the strap and that was my very first time changing strap on pam and look what I got. Some scratches, It was so bothering me. Immediately I ordered Cape Cod cloth but it didn't remove 100% of scratches. These scratches much better than before I use my cape cod. So, I decided to leave my pam as it is. Maybe I will let local watchmaker to polish my pam when my pam get a lot and nasty scratches, dings, or dent. here the picture of my scratches.



[/IMG]


So, what are you gonna do if your pam have scratches like I mine?. Leave it or vanish it?





Figure they give the watch character.

When I send my 320 in for a spa treatment in a few years, that's when I will ask for the scratches to be polished out. Maybe.

My two yen.

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zameenzahari
Paneristi
Joined: March 24th, 2010, 3:49 am

April 30th, 2012, 1:20 pm #4

These scratches was made by me when I really really got my pam. I wanted to change the strap and that was my very first time changing strap on pam and look what I got. Some scratches, It was so bothering me. Immediately I ordered Cape Cod cloth but it didn't remove 100% of scratches. These scratches much better than before I use my cape cod. So, I decided to leave my pam as it is. Maybe I will let local watchmaker to polish my pam when my pam get a lot and nasty scratches, dings, or dent. here the picture of my scratches.



[/IMG]


So, what are you gonna do if your pam have scratches like I mine?. Leave it or vanish it?





When you change straps- it helps minimize the risk of scratches. As for what you have now..just leave it.


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Acro-Pilot
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Joined: March 8th, 2012, 4:58 pm

April 30th, 2012, 1:20 pm #5

These scratches was made by me when I really really got my pam. I wanted to change the strap and that was my very first time changing strap on pam and look what I got. Some scratches, It was so bothering me. Immediately I ordered Cape Cod cloth but it didn't remove 100% of scratches. These scratches much better than before I use my cape cod. So, I decided to leave my pam as it is. Maybe I will let local watchmaker to polish my pam when my pam get a lot and nasty scratches, dings, or dent. here the picture of my scratches.



[/IMG]


So, what are you gonna do if your pam have scratches like I mine?. Leave it or vanish it?





Achmad - If you want to minimize the scratches you may get from strap changes you can put a piece of scotch tape over each lug and just poke the OEM screwdriver through the tape when you turn out the pin. Even with the tape on, the best thing you can do to minimize scratches on the lugs during a strap change is to be careful and use the OEM screwdriver.

Enjoy wearing your PAM knowing that little swirls and scuffs are part the watch becoming yours. If you try and keep it pristine you'll drive yourself crazy.

- Peter

- Peter

So much more than just a watch!
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Acro-Pilot
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Joined: March 8th, 2012, 4:58 pm

April 30th, 2012, 1:21 pm #6

When you change straps- it helps minimize the risk of scratches. As for what you have now..just leave it.

- Peter

- Peter

So much more than just a watch!
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mekeni78
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mekeni78
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Joined: December 8th, 2011, 10:42 pm

April 30th, 2012, 1:28 pm #7

These scratches was made by me when I really really got my pam. I wanted to change the strap and that was my very first time changing strap on pam and look what I got. Some scratches, It was so bothering me. Immediately I ordered Cape Cod cloth but it didn't remove 100% of scratches. These scratches much better than before I use my cape cod. So, I decided to leave my pam as it is. Maybe I will let local watchmaker to polish my pam when my pam get a lot and nasty scratches, dings, or dent. here the picture of my scratches.



[/IMG]


So, what are you gonna do if your pam have scratches like I mine?. Leave it or vanish it?





I was so mad at myself I couldn't sleep the first time I scratched mine. Now I just laugh about. Figure I'd probably get a whole lot more wearing it almost everyday.
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dwiputra
New User
dwiputra
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Joined: April 29th, 2012, 3:19 am

April 30th, 2012, 1:41 pm #8

Achmad - If you want to minimize the scratches you may get from strap changes you can put a piece of scotch tape over each lug and just poke the OEM screwdriver through the tape when you turn out the pin. Even with the tape on, the best thing you can do to minimize scratches on the lugs during a strap change is to be careful and use the OEM screwdriver.

Enjoy wearing your PAM knowing that little swirls and scuffs are part the watch becoming yours. If you try and keep it pristine you'll drive yourself crazy.

- Peter

I try it and it works!.
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dwiputra
New User
dwiputra
New User
Joined: April 29th, 2012, 3:19 am

April 30th, 2012, 1:46 pm #9

I was so mad at myself I couldn't sleep the first time I scratched mine. Now I just laugh about. Figure I'd probably get a whole lot more wearing it almost everyday.
Lately my colleagues always laugh at me because I always looking of my pam trying to examine the scratches from different angle every single minute.LOL! I look like an Idiot in the office.
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rendylatief
Paneristi
Joined: September 15th, 2011, 4:11 am

April 30th, 2012, 5:03 pm #10

These scratches was made by me when I really really got my pam. I wanted to change the strap and that was my very first time changing strap on pam and look what I got. Some scratches, It was so bothering me. Immediately I ordered Cape Cod cloth but it didn't remove 100% of scratches. These scratches much better than before I use my cape cod. So, I decided to leave my pam as it is. Maybe I will let local watchmaker to polish my pam when my pam get a lot and nasty scratches, dings, or dent. here the picture of my scratches.



[/IMG]


So, what are you gonna do if your pam have scratches like I mine?. Leave it or vanish it?





From what I learned that when I use the Panerai OEM screw, it tends to slip. ( didn't know why )
But this is what I do, I bought a precision swiss watchmaker screwdriver set and used it to change straps.
Never had a slip after that, even if its strap changing on a Rad.
Just my suggestion though.
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gfriedell
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Joined: January 27th, 2005, 3:20 pm

April 30th, 2012, 6:11 pm #11

It that it ground flat with straight blades and "shoulders" at 90* to the blades. The screwdriver tip is fit to match the contours of the slot in the screw but there is enough play that it will slip out of the screw head if there is any side to side movement when operating the screwdriver.

A proper fitting screwdriver tip is either wedge shaped or, better, hollow ground. The taper of the tip should be such that the flat sides of the tip wedge against the inside "shoulders" of the screw slot. This will seat the screwdriver securely into the screw and it will not slip if you are using the screwdriver properly.

The problem with Panerai lug screws is that man screwdriver tips (i.e. a 1.6mm Bergeon) are too long. It bottoms out and hits the bottom of the screw slot before the sides wedge into the screw slot. This is why they slip. If you are using a tapered type of tip and it slips in the lug screw easily you may need to shorten it with a file to keep it from bottoming out in the screw slot.

Here is a quick drawing of what I'm trying to explain.






I'm a bit of a freak aout these things and I hate using tape on my lugs. What I do is use the OEM screwdriver for the initial loosening and final tightening of the screws. For the "dangerous" part I use a screwdriver with a brass tip that I made myself. The brass is softer than Stainless Steel so if you do slip it would cause very little damage. The screwdriver tip is shaped so it wedges nicely into the slot and the soft brass holds securely in the slot. It's not difficult to make your own screwdriver tip. It takes a little practice and I got a bit of instruction from an expert.

It's also a good idea to takes some very fine sandpaper or emery paper and lightly round off all of the sharp edges of the screwdriver tip. Then if you do happen to slip it will do much less damage to the watch.




Last edited by gfriedell on April 30th, 2012, 8:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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robNY
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robNY
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Joined: January 29th, 2005, 10:11 pm

April 30th, 2012, 6:44 pm #12

Thanks Gary....... I knew you were a were a screwologist.......nt
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Cr4ig
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Cr4ig
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Joined: September 16th, 2011, 10:25 pm

April 30th, 2012, 8:53 pm #13

Until you've learned to change straps without scratching the lugs, then polish them out
-Craig F
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mekeni78
Paneristi
mekeni78
Paneristi
Joined: December 8th, 2011, 10:42 pm

April 30th, 2012, 10:16 pm #14

It that it ground flat with straight blades and "shoulders" at 90* to the blades. The screwdriver tip is fit to match the contours of the slot in the screw but there is enough play that it will slip out of the screw head if there is any side to side movement when operating the screwdriver.

A proper fitting screwdriver tip is either wedge shaped or, better, hollow ground. The taper of the tip should be such that the flat sides of the tip wedge against the inside "shoulders" of the screw slot. This will seat the screwdriver securely into the screw and it will not slip if you are using the screwdriver properly.

The problem with Panerai lug screws is that man screwdriver tips (i.e. a 1.6mm Bergeon) are too long. It bottoms out and hits the bottom of the screw slot before the sides wedge into the screw slot. This is why they slip. If you are using a tapered type of tip and it slips in the lug screw easily you may need to shorten it with a file to keep it from bottoming out in the screw slot.

Here is a quick drawing of what I'm trying to explain.






I'm a bit of a freak aout these things and I hate using tape on my lugs. What I do is use the OEM screwdriver for the initial loosening and final tightening of the screws. For the "dangerous" part I use a screwdriver with a brass tip that I made myself. The brass is softer than Stainless Steel so if you do slip it would cause very little damage. The screwdriver tip is shaped so it wedges nicely into the slot and the soft brass holds securely in the slot. It's not difficult to make your own screwdriver tip. It takes a little practice and I got a bit of instruction from an expert.

It's also a good idea to takes some very fine sandpaper or emery paper and lightly round off all of the sharp edges of the screwdriver tip. Then if you do happen to slip it will do much less damage to the watch.




Thought I knew how to screw! LOL!! Thanks for the info.
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aikiman44
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aikiman44
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Joined: July 5th, 2007, 4:06 am

April 30th, 2012, 11:22 pm #15

It that it ground flat with straight blades and "shoulders" at 90* to the blades. The screwdriver tip is fit to match the contours of the slot in the screw but there is enough play that it will slip out of the screw head if there is any side to side movement when operating the screwdriver.

A proper fitting screwdriver tip is either wedge shaped or, better, hollow ground. The taper of the tip should be such that the flat sides of the tip wedge against the inside "shoulders" of the screw slot. This will seat the screwdriver securely into the screw and it will not slip if you are using the screwdriver properly.

The problem with Panerai lug screws is that man screwdriver tips (i.e. a 1.6mm Bergeon) are too long. It bottoms out and hits the bottom of the screw slot before the sides wedge into the screw slot. This is why they slip. If you are using a tapered type of tip and it slips in the lug screw easily you may need to shorten it with a file to keep it from bottoming out in the screw slot.

Here is a quick drawing of what I'm trying to explain.






I'm a bit of a freak aout these things and I hate using tape on my lugs. What I do is use the OEM screwdriver for the initial loosening and final tightening of the screws. For the "dangerous" part I use a screwdriver with a brass tip that I made myself. The brass is softer than Stainless Steel so if you do slip it would cause very little damage. The screwdriver tip is shaped so it wedges nicely into the slot and the soft brass holds securely in the slot. It's not difficult to make your own screwdriver tip. It takes a little practice and I got a bit of instruction from an expert.

It's also a good idea to takes some very fine sandpaper or emery paper and lightly round off all of the sharp edges of the screwdriver tip. Then if you do happen to slip it will do much less damage to the watch.




Very instructive post.

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sandrociro
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sandrociro
Paneristi
Joined: September 26th, 2011, 2:09 am

April 30th, 2012, 11:32 pm #16

These scratches was made by me when I really really got my pam. I wanted to change the strap and that was my very first time changing strap on pam and look what I got. Some scratches, It was so bothering me. Immediately I ordered Cape Cod cloth but it didn't remove 100% of scratches. These scratches much better than before I use my cape cod. So, I decided to leave my pam as it is. Maybe I will let local watchmaker to polish my pam when my pam get a lot and nasty scratches, dings, or dent. here the picture of my scratches.



[/IMG]


So, what are you gonna do if your pam have scratches like I mine?. Leave it or vanish it?





This is why I got Micah's magic slotted spring bars for my 111. Now I switch straps in two seconds with a toothpick. No more scratches and it makes the strap changing fun and easy. I was concerned about the looks but it really feels that the screw is in there.

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dwiputra
New User
dwiputra
New User
Joined: April 29th, 2012, 3:19 am

April 30th, 2012, 11:35 pm #17

It that it ground flat with straight blades and "shoulders" at 90* to the blades. The screwdriver tip is fit to match the contours of the slot in the screw but there is enough play that it will slip out of the screw head if there is any side to side movement when operating the screwdriver.

A proper fitting screwdriver tip is either wedge shaped or, better, hollow ground. The taper of the tip should be such that the flat sides of the tip wedge against the inside "shoulders" of the screw slot. This will seat the screwdriver securely into the screw and it will not slip if you are using the screwdriver properly.

The problem with Panerai lug screws is that man screwdriver tips (i.e. a 1.6mm Bergeon) are too long. It bottoms out and hits the bottom of the screw slot before the sides wedge into the screw slot. This is why they slip. If you are using a tapered type of tip and it slips in the lug screw easily you may need to shorten it with a file to keep it from bottoming out in the screw slot.

Here is a quick drawing of what I'm trying to explain.






I'm a bit of a freak aout these things and I hate using tape on my lugs. What I do is use the OEM screwdriver for the initial loosening and final tightening of the screws. For the "dangerous" part I use a screwdriver with a brass tip that I made myself. The brass is softer than Stainless Steel so if you do slip it would cause very little damage. The screwdriver tip is shaped so it wedges nicely into the slot and the soft brass holds securely in the slot. It's not difficult to make your own screwdriver tip. It takes a little practice and I got a bit of instruction from an expert.

It's also a good idea to takes some very fine sandpaper or emery paper and lightly round off all of the sharp edges of the screwdriver tip. Then if you do happen to slip it will do much less damage to the watch.




Wow your post is really helpful especially with your draw, I really appreciate it, gary!
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Acro-Pilot
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Joined: March 8th, 2012, 4:58 pm

April 30th, 2012, 11:51 pm #18

It that it ground flat with straight blades and "shoulders" at 90* to the blades. The screwdriver tip is fit to match the contours of the slot in the screw but there is enough play that it will slip out of the screw head if there is any side to side movement when operating the screwdriver.

A proper fitting screwdriver tip is either wedge shaped or, better, hollow ground. The taper of the tip should be such that the flat sides of the tip wedge against the inside "shoulders" of the screw slot. This will seat the screwdriver securely into the screw and it will not slip if you are using the screwdriver properly.

The problem with Panerai lug screws is that man screwdriver tips (i.e. a 1.6mm Bergeon) are too long. It bottoms out and hits the bottom of the screw slot before the sides wedge into the screw slot. This is why they slip. If you are using a tapered type of tip and it slips in the lug screw easily you may need to shorten it with a file to keep it from bottoming out in the screw slot.

Here is a quick drawing of what I'm trying to explain.






I'm a bit of a freak aout these things and I hate using tape on my lugs. What I do is use the OEM screwdriver for the initial loosening and final tightening of the screws. For the "dangerous" part I use a screwdriver with a brass tip that I made myself. The brass is softer than Stainless Steel so if you do slip it would cause very little damage. The screwdriver tip is shaped so it wedges nicely into the slot and the soft brass holds securely in the slot. It's not difficult to make your own screwdriver tip. It takes a little practice and I got a bit of instruction from an expert.

It's also a good idea to takes some very fine sandpaper or emery paper and lightly round off all of the sharp edges of the screwdriver tip. Then if you do happen to slip it will do much less damage to the watch.




Now I'm going to think about your specialized brass screwdriver every time I'm taping up my lugs. Did you start with a 1.6mm brass driver tip or larger and shape it down yourself?

Thanks again for the info Gary. VERY helpful!

- Peter

- Peter

So much more than just a watch!
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Acro-Pilot
Paneristi
Joined: March 8th, 2012, 4:58 pm

April 30th, 2012, 11:55 pm #19

These scratches was made by me when I really really got my pam. I wanted to change the strap and that was my very first time changing strap on pam and look what I got. Some scratches, It was so bothering me. Immediately I ordered Cape Cod cloth but it didn't remove 100% of scratches. These scratches much better than before I use my cape cod. So, I decided to leave my pam as it is. Maybe I will let local watchmaker to polish my pam when my pam get a lot and nasty scratches, dings, or dent. here the picture of my scratches.



[/IMG]


So, what are you gonna do if your pam have scratches like I mine?. Leave it or vanish it?





I'm no expert and others may feel differently but in my opinion, the lug screws really don't need more than a few inch pounds of torque to stay secure. Cranking them down with a lot of force may be the time when the driver slips off the lug screw and give you a fun little scuff.

...another bit of advice from someone that likes to learn things the hard way.

- Peter

- Peter

So much more than just a watch!
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rendylatief
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Joined: September 15th, 2011, 4:11 am

May 1st, 2012, 1:51 am #20

It that it ground flat with straight blades and "shoulders" at 90* to the blades. The screwdriver tip is fit to match the contours of the slot in the screw but there is enough play that it will slip out of the screw head if there is any side to side movement when operating the screwdriver.

A proper fitting screwdriver tip is either wedge shaped or, better, hollow ground. The taper of the tip should be such that the flat sides of the tip wedge against the inside "shoulders" of the screw slot. This will seat the screwdriver securely into the screw and it will not slip if you are using the screwdriver properly.

The problem with Panerai lug screws is that man screwdriver tips (i.e. a 1.6mm Bergeon) are too long. It bottoms out and hits the bottom of the screw slot before the sides wedge into the screw slot. This is why they slip. If you are using a tapered type of tip and it slips in the lug screw easily you may need to shorten it with a file to keep it from bottoming out in the screw slot.

Here is a quick drawing of what I'm trying to explain.






I'm a bit of a freak aout these things and I hate using tape on my lugs. What I do is use the OEM screwdriver for the initial loosening and final tightening of the screws. For the "dangerous" part I use a screwdriver with a brass tip that I made myself. The brass is softer than Stainless Steel so if you do slip it would cause very little damage. The screwdriver tip is shaped so it wedges nicely into the slot and the soft brass holds securely in the slot. It's not difficult to make your own screwdriver tip. It takes a little practice and I got a bit of instruction from an expert.

It's also a good idea to takes some very fine sandpaper or emery paper and lightly round off all of the sharp edges of the screwdriver tip. Then if you do happen to slip it will do much less damage to the watch.




Now that's a detailed explanation. Thanks for the illustration mate.
CHeers.
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