An area containing tutorials related to bowmaking
- Joined: August 31st, 2006, 5:28 am
Great info and intel peeps! How much do you go long-string if you even go? And what is the difference between longstring- and floor tillering? Except from how you do it of course! =)
QFF: Do you people still have floppys?//Jakob - Welcoming the spring, new love and any opportunity to work with his hands!
//Jakob - too little time for all interest and hobbies!
- Joined: June 25th, 2005, 4:30 am
I think of floor tiller, and long string tiller as accomplishing the same purpose, namely to get the bow bending enough to put a real string on without being over stressed. When floor tillering one end of the bow is on the floor, and the handle is pushed to bend the bow a little while observing the way it bends by eye. With experience you get a feel for how much pressure should produce how much bend. The rub here is developing the experience.
Long string tillering with a few extra precautions, like having the string length equal to the bow length, and pulling with a scale, can get the bow to brace height in a more controlled manner. If you pull with the draw weight, and get less than 1 deflection, there is no question, more wood needs to come off. However, even at 1 deflection you can still get some idea if there are large errors in the evenness of the bend.
To me, long string tillers job is done once the bow can be strung at a low brace height.
..Floppy disk?........ It is hard to find a computer that will accept one these days.
- Joined: January 7th, 2008, 1:50 am
- Joined: June 17th, 2005, 11:07 pm
I put the hitch in the bottom end so that I can just get the string on without bending the bow and just enough slack that I can make the top pin without forcing the bow.
I stop using the long string as soon as I can brace the bow,
Last edited by Rod
on May 10th, 2017, 9:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
It's meant to be simple, not easy.