First bow. Sinew backed black locust

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First bow. Sinew backed black locust

MrWorld
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Joined: 04 Sep 2017, 12:37

04 Sep 2017, 13:53 #1

I have 2 questions.... (so far).
1: could a "primitive" bow have a sight window to off set the handle.... Placing the arrow in the center of the design....?
2: what's up with heat treating.... ?
Wet(steam)/dry.... ?
Just for putting in recurve or additional seasoning or what?

Thanks in advance.

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MrWorld
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Joined: 04 Sep 2017, 12:37

04 Sep 2017, 17:06 #2

MrWorld wrote:I have 2 questions.... (so far).
1: could a "primitive" bow have a sight window to off set the handle.... Placing the arrow in the center of the design....?
2: what's up with heat treating.... ?
Wet(steam)/dry.... ?
Just for putting in recurve or additional seasoning or what?

Thanks in advance.

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I have harvested my stave, split it, then split the sides off of one half. It has a nice natural resource shape. I've chased down about 3 rings, and and gathering info and tools while I wait for it to season about 20 more days.

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MrWorld
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Joined: 04 Sep 2017, 12:37

05 Sep 2017, 00:54 #3

MrWorld wrote:
MrWorld wrote:I have 2 questions.... (so far).
1: could a "primitive" bow have a sight window to off set the handle.... Placing the arrow in the center of the design....?
2: what's up with heat treating.... ?
Wet(steam)/dry.... ?
Just for putting in recurve or additional seasoning or what?

Thanks in advance.

Sent from my Z832 using Tapatalk
I have harvested my stave, split it, then split the sides off of one half. It has a nice natural resource shape. I've chased down about 3 rings, and and gathering info and tools while I wait for it to season about 20 more days.

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Some pics of where I'm at.

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river rat
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Joined: 25 Nov 2015, 15:24

05 Sep 2017, 01:45 #4

ive always got mine shaped and tillered to it barely bending at all while green. then id place under my bed on its belly for a month or so until it was dry enough to tiller so it bent nice and even to brace. then it would stay under the bed another couple weeks then id bend in any reset at the tips of handle area. , get any twist or side to side bends out {steaming or heat bending}. then id let it set a day or two and get on to tillering on the stick.sometimes id leave some sapwood, sometimes not. depends on the crown i had to deal with.yours is looking good so far. dont rush it. black locust is a lot of work tillering. you have to get it perfect. or very close to it.
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MrWorld
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Joined: 04 Sep 2017, 12:37

05 Sep 2017, 02:20 #5

Thanks for the reply.
What do you think about handle placement..? I read one place said to center it. Another source said put the arrows center at the bows center. The second one makes more sense to me....

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river rat
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Joined: 25 Nov 2015, 15:24

06 Sep 2017, 01:06 #6

i place my handle so the arrow rests just above center of the bow. thats how ive always done it. thats just my liking though. lots of others do it differently.all my bows are bend through the handle bows.
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MrWorld
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Joined: 04 Sep 2017, 12:37

06 Sep 2017, 12:55 #7

river rat wrote:i place my handle so the arrow rests just above center of the bow. thats how ive always done it. thats just my liking though. lots of others do it differently.all my bows are bend through the handle bows.
I took your advice and did some ruffing in....
Decided to put the shelf so the center of the arrow is in the center of the bow vertically, and just towards the bow arm horizontally.

The work was done by spokeshave and rasp.

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MrWorld
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Joined: 04 Sep 2017, 12:37

10 Sep 2017, 13:12 #8

More shaping....

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river rat
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Joined: 25 Nov 2015, 15:24

11 Sep 2017, 01:11 #9

looking good!
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MrWorld
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Joined: 04 Sep 2017, 12:37

11 Sep 2017, 01:31 #10

Thanks!!!
I'm gonna do a bit more fiddling, then put it down till its better cured.
Any advice on getting some meat off those limbs...?
Saw...? Split...? Chisel? Shave? Plane?

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river rat
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Joined: 25 Nov 2015, 15:24

11 Sep 2017, 16:57 #11

shave or plain works, so does a rasp. i have a method of using a hammer and my knife. then when i get it close. its just using my knife and files till its done.dont rush it. take your time. look at it. examine it.check out the grain, every little inch of it.let it tell you what you need to do.
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MrWorld
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Joined: 04 Sep 2017, 12:37

12 Sep 2017, 12:41 #12

That last sentence is definitely good advice. I've learned so much from this injured locust from the Conrail line. I've learned a lot from the long drop left over from splitting my stave. How they are curling at the skinny sapwood, yet the heartwood is much more rigid.
As far as your knife technique... I had something similar in mind... (I think)
I considered cutting a guideline for the transition from riser to limb with a saw... Leaving some extra meat for fine tuning... Then split from the endgrain, then spoke shave..... But I am still learning.....

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MrWorld
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Joined: 04 Sep 2017, 12:37

21 Sep 2017, 11:32 #13

MrWorld wrote:That last sentence is definitely good advice. I've learned so much from this injured locust from the Conrail line. I've learned a lot from the long drop left over from splitting my stave. How they are curling at the skinny sapwood, yet the heartwood is much more rigid.
As far as your knife technique... I had something similar in mind... (I think)
I considered cutting a guideline for the transition from riser to limb with a saw... Leaving some extra meat for fine tuning... Then split from the endgrain, then spoke shave..... But I am still learning.....

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Almost there....

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MrWorld
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Joined: 04 Sep 2017, 12:37

21 Sep 2017, 11:34 #14

Almost there....


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MrWorld
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Joined: 04 Sep 2017, 12:37

21 Sep 2017, 11:40 #15

Once I got it tillered I plan to steam bend a slight recurve, dry heat treat the belly, and back it with sinew. Anything I should be mindful of in any of these processes. Any advice as to the order? I have listed them in the order I plan to do them in, but it is all based in theory. No practice.

The internet is currently my only resource....

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river rat
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Joined: 25 Nov 2015, 15:24

21 Sep 2017, 21:19 #16

ive bent locust bows in the past. ive always heat bent it. but steam will work too.if your sure enough to heat the belly, i dont see why you cant heat bend the limbs too for instant bends. once it cools its done no form needed. no waiting for it to dry.no possibility of drying cracks. just my thoughts on this.before you back it with sinew, its a good idea to ruff up the back with some coarse grain sand paper, or a sand stone, so the glue has a good gripping surface. b.locust can get real smooth.then wash it so if you got any oils from your hands on it they come off. plus it helps raise the grains once it dries.
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river rat
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Joined: 25 Nov 2015, 15:24

12 Oct 2017, 10:10 #17

looking forward to seeing the finished bow.
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