New project - Ash longbow

For discussion related to primitive bows.
Dark Factor
Registered User
Joined: 29 May 2016, 16:15

14 Nov 2017, 18:45 #21

your section seem very large to me. I mean when it's too large you don't have it well on the hand and I consider you can't shoot so well (just my point of view, not sure if other archer here feel the same). But if it's not too large, you could add a piece of rawhide.
Generally longbows have rounded square section or a near round section, not a flat one.
but if you change this, you could loose a lot of draw weight... about the half of draw weight.
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Exciter
Registered User
Joined: 02 Aug 2017, 11:21

14 Nov 2017, 19:03 #22

@JoachimM

The moisture thing probably learns me my moisture meter is pure crap ... :) I don't believe my bows will be at 6% in the environment they're in when indoors @20° it's about 13%... hmm gonna need to think about this

about the arc... well I don't know if you can trust the pic 100% if it is taken a little "crooked" or so. I also always check the cement lines on the wall, according to those the limbs are quite even, however... I wont disregard your observation and I'll check it anyway

@Dark Factor

Ehm well, it is smaller than that... I meant the shape is almost the same, but it is smaller. It's quite good in the hand at the moment for shooting (I also add a leather with laces handle piece when the bow is ready)

The belly still needs to be somewhat rounded like I've drawn the red (the back also a bit now, I'll probably  follow WillS advice and look up some more about it). Or do you mean it needs to be rounded from the start? Because I started like that but I found that a pain in the ass to work with. So then I just flattened the belly and was planning to tiller up to the intended draw weigth at about 20 or 22" draw length or so and then start rounding the belly.
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Dark Factor
Registered User
Joined: 29 May 2016, 16:15

14 Nov 2017, 19:31 #23

the handle is the most important to be good on the hand, but if you feel it well, so that's not a problem. I just mean the proportions seems too large and you could take out wood on the sides to be closer to a square section and not a rectangle. but it means you had to take out half of the wood and so half of the weight.
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Dark Factor
Registered User
Joined: 29 May 2016, 16:15

14 Nov 2017, 19:33 #24

A too large handle add archer paradox to the arrow too, that's why it's always better to have a narrow handle. for flabows, limbs are flats, but bowyers (milleniums ago too) understood that's better to work the handle differently to reduice paradox with a narrow handle.
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Exciter
Registered User
Joined: 02 Aug 2017, 11:21

17 Nov 2017, 19:31 #25

Yes of course I also keep mind of that if I a flat bow to narrow the handle more, but with this bow to keep the appearance of a "D-style longbow or warbow", or whatever :) it should be the widest part of the bow I think, however 1 1/2" is I think personally the borderline for this for the arrow issue.

Anyway this week I watched some helpful videos made by richard head longbows on youtube...

here's a link to a series of 3 videos of roughing out and tillering a longbow, I really learnt some good tricks and new stuff from this, going to help me a lot!



really helpful cool videos

grtz
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Dark Factor
Registered User
Joined: 29 May 2016, 16:15

19 Nov 2017, 13:18 #26

that's not as I work at all, but yes, that's interesting to see how other bowyers do.
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Exciter
Registered User
Joined: 02 Aug 2017, 11:21

19 Nov 2017, 14:22 #27

they have lots of videos with tips like fitting on horn nocks etc..., it makes things much easier once you can see them... for instance I tillered the bow by just drawing it on my tillering stick and looking at it, not drawing it like 50 times..... now I do that it really helps much really glad I found these videos
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