New project - Ash longbow

For discussion related to primitive bows.
Dark Factor
Registered User
Dark Factor
Registered User
Joined: May 29th, 2016, 4:15 pm

November 14th, 2017, 6:45 pm #21

your section seem very large to me. I mean when it's too large you don't have it well on the hand and I consider you can't shoot so well (just my point of view, not sure if other archer here feel the same). But if it's not too large, you could add a piece of rawhide.
Generally longbows have rounded square section or a near round section, not a flat one.
but if you change this, you could loose a lot of draw weight... about the half of draw weight.
Quote
Like
Share

Exciter
Registered User
Exciter
Registered User
Joined: August 2nd, 2017, 11:21 am

November 14th, 2017, 7:03 pm #22

@JoachimM

The moisture thing probably learns me my moisture meter is pure crap ... :) I don't believe my bows will be at 6% in the environment they're in when indoors @20° it's about 13%... hmm gonna need to think about this

about the arc... well I don't know if you can trust the pic 100% if it is taken a little "crooked" or so. I also always check the cement lines on the wall, according to those the limbs are quite even, however... I wont disregard your observation and I'll check it anyway

@Dark Factor

Ehm well, it is smaller than that... I meant the shape is almost the same, but it is smaller. It's quite good in the hand at the moment for shooting (I also add a leather with laces handle piece when the bow is ready)

The belly still needs to be somewhat rounded like I've drawn the red (the back also a bit now, I'll probably  follow WillS advice and look up some more about it). Or do you mean it needs to be rounded from the start? Because I started like that but I found that a pain in the ass to work with. So then I just flattened the belly and was planning to tiller up to the intended draw weigth at about 20 or 22" draw length or so and then start rounding the belly.
Quote
Like
Share

Dark Factor
Registered User
Dark Factor
Registered User
Joined: May 29th, 2016, 4:15 pm

November 14th, 2017, 7:31 pm #23

the handle is the most important to be good on the hand, but if you feel it well, so that's not a problem. I just mean the proportions seems too large and you could take out wood on the sides to be closer to a square section and not a rectangle. but it means you had to take out half of the wood and so half of the weight.
Quote
Like
Share

Dark Factor
Registered User
Dark Factor
Registered User
Joined: May 29th, 2016, 4:15 pm

November 14th, 2017, 7:33 pm #24

A too large handle add archer paradox to the arrow too, that's why it's always better to have a narrow handle. for flabows, limbs are flats, but bowyers (milleniums ago too) understood that's better to work the handle differently to reduice paradox with a narrow handle.
Quote
Like
Share

Exciter
Registered User
Exciter
Registered User
Joined: August 2nd, 2017, 11:21 am

November 17th, 2017, 7:31 pm #25

Yes of course I also keep mind of that if I a flat bow to narrow the handle more, but with this bow to keep the appearance of a "D-style longbow or warbow", or whatever :) it should be the widest part of the bow I think, however 1 1/2" is I think personally the borderline for this for the arrow issue.

Anyway this week I watched some helpful videos made by richard head longbows on youtube...

here's a link to a series of 3 videos of roughing out and tillering a longbow, I really learnt some good tricks and new stuff from this, going to help me a lot!



really helpful cool videos

grtz
Quote
Like
Share

Dark Factor
Registered User
Dark Factor
Registered User
Joined: May 29th, 2016, 4:15 pm

November 19th, 2017, 1:18 pm #26

that's not as I work at all, but yes, that's interesting to see how other bowyers do.
Quote
Like
Share

Exciter
Registered User
Exciter
Registered User
Joined: August 2nd, 2017, 11:21 am

November 19th, 2017, 2:22 pm #27

they have lots of videos with tips like fitting on horn nocks etc..., it makes things much easier once you can see them... for instance I tillered the bow by just drawing it on my tillering stick and looking at it, not drawing it like 50 times..... now I do that it really helps much really glad I found these videos
Quote
Like
Share

Exciter
Registered User
Exciter
Registered User
Joined: August 2nd, 2017, 11:21 am

December 28th, 2017, 10:49 am #28

Heya guys, here with an update (weren't able to continue work on the bow for a month.... and after that I first made better work of my workbench and tiller tree...)

However the bow is 'ready'... it's both a failure and a succes I guess. It's a succes because it's shooting, also my best bow to date... and it's a failure in everything else  hahaha

I didn't manage to make the tips bending as you'll see in the pics, took of wood, made them less wide.... however, they just wouldn't bent, and so I decided I'll let them like they are, to not further eat away at the draw weigth (which is way below target haha) The handle is bending but less than the limbs which is also not good for a full bending bow I think?

draw weigth at 24" is about 39-40 lbs, and at 28" it's about 46-47 lbs. way below my 70# target weigth or the 60# I would settle for... however, I just tried to have a shooting bow after I knew I wouldn't make it anymore.

I think the bending is quite evenly however, you experts will probably still find some "uneveness" in there hahaha. although I wouldn't trust these pictures 100% either, quickly taken to not let the bow stay drawn for too long.

braced at 6"


24"


28"


unbraced

here you see it has a little set now ... but the right nock (upper limb) still has a very little reflex in it.... also one of the reasons I think I'm not getting it to bend enough.

Next is sanding, putting on some finish and a leather handle and after last sanding I'll probably end up 45# at 28"...

All in all still quite happy with it. If only I had more time  ......

next up I want to try a hickory board pyramid shape with slight working recurves made by heat. Who knows..... not gonna aim for high lbs probably 30-35.

bye!
Quote
Like
Share

Dark Factor
Registered User
Dark Factor
Registered User
Joined: May 29th, 2016, 4:15 pm

December 28th, 2017, 12:06 pm #29

Oh, that's a success I think. Don't make too many goals on your first bows, this one is already nice. the bend isn't so bad (even if the light near the handle only don't make easy to see the right shape).
It seems to bend a bit too much on limbs at 1/3 of the tips. this could bend a bit more for the rest (but light and contrastes sometime can create illusions)
Quote
Like
Share

river rat
Registered User
river rat
Registered User
Joined: November 25th, 2015, 3:24 pm

December 29th, 2017, 12:08 pm #30

looks nice.as long as your happy with it your good.
Quote
Like
Share

Exciter
Registered User
Exciter
Registered User
Joined: August 2nd, 2017, 11:21 am

January 4th, 2018, 1:40 pm #31

Heya, thanks for the replies.

Started the Hickory recurve, glued on a handle riser and nocking points, however, felt like making another bow from a quarter log, I like that better, the hickory one is for a little later.

It's gonna be an ash flatbow style 2" from mid limb to mid limb then tapering to about 1/2" on the nocks, going to use horn nocks, I think I'm confident enough at the moment for this one that I'm not gonna break it to get the extra work on the nocks done. stiff handle section about 8" including the tapers to the limbs, tips stiff 8". I *think* that's a reasonable build for the profile I'm going for. also upper limb 1 1/2" longer for assymetrical center.

Aiming for max 50# (can't test anything stronger than this anyway where I'm living, I found out recently) 40# or 45# I'm also glad. it's about 74,5" total length, nock to nock, no idea yet, and upon completion with the horn nocks, also no idea yet.

It's from the same log as the bow built previously in this thread, so I think it should definately work as a flatbow. At first I was a little concerned about the 'high crown', I suspect it to be about 1/2" high at the 2" width. however, it's quite long and I read decrowning is not needed in that case. So I think it's going to be fine.

some pics of very rough stage:

view from bottom limb


view from top limb


upper limb not fully roughed out yet, note the shaky profile, I tried following the grain (Followed the information on your website Dark_Factor) I'm still in the phase now of thinking how this will work out. the bend in the bow however should provide that the arrow will rest more centered if you know what I mean, and thus gives less archers paradox. I don't know if that's the right thing to do, however that's what I thougth was right. Still got some breathing room in width dimension to adjust and whatnot.

grtz
Quote
Like
Share