I talked to michbowguy (great thread by the way!) and he is ok with me posting some pics in his thread.
Tribunmarcus, first, select the straightest shoots possible. I dont take any shoots that are to crooked for example or that have bumps.
Those shoots are very very straight. They just need a little bending and thell be ok.
I bundle them and let them dry for several months, than I debark and either heat or cold straighten them. Then the real work begins: getting them perfectly straight and spined.
First I measure the spine than hand plane it down, including all the irregularities, with a hand plane that has been transformed for that purpose.
Resently I needed arrows spined 35#. I took shoots spined 50-60# and hand planed them dowmn to 40#. When arrived at a spine that is 5# above the spine I stopped hand planning the shaft and go over to sanding it down to the required spine. For that purpose I made those tools. They are made from hawthorn with drills ranging from 10mm to 13mm.
That tool is copied from the sanding stone that our ancestors used.
Fix the tool in a vice, so that:
-you can push the shaft with both hands through the drilled hole.
-you can adjust the pressure employed by the vice by closing the jaws or
-by moving the tool up or down
I use a 80 grit machine sandpaper and employ about 10-20 strokes before I respine the shaft. Repeat until the shaft is perfectly straight and spined to your requirements.
Result: this dogwood shaft is perfectly straight. Diameter is 5/16, weight is 370 grains including the yew knock.