Photo's of Decoder Installation in the Wal. 0-8-0

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Photo's of Decoder Installation in the Wal. 0-8-0

Powersteamguy1790
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19 Nov 2007, 20:37 #1

Here are the photo's of the Walthers 0-8-0 decoder installation using a Lenz silver mini decoder with a NMRA eight pin plug. This is one of the first photo pictorials of the decoder installation in the Walthers 0-8-0 switcher on any of the major forums.

Here is a photo of the Lenz gold mini decoder with harness unaltered. The Lenz silver mini decoder is basically the same decoder as the Lenz gold mini decoder at a lower price.




Below is the Lenz silver mini decoder soldered to an NMRA eight pin plug. The wire harness has been shortened considerably so the decoder will fit in the tender. There isn't much room to work with here.




A view of the Walthers 0-8-0 tender with the shell removed. It lifts off easily. The factory installed eight pin plug must be removed.





Below is a view of the board in the tender with the factory installed eight pin plug removed.




Now protect the silver mini decoder with some Kapton tape to prevent any accidental short circuits if the decoder in any way touches the frame.




The top weight in the tender has been removed by unscrewing the screw holding it in place.. That bunch of wires must be flattened down with an instrument so the decoder seats properly. If you don't adjust that "rat nest" of wires, the decoder won't seat properly. As a result the tender shell won't seat as well.






Seat the decoder in place and replace the weight in the tender.





Place the tender shell back on the frame. It should seat and snap into position.




Two Southern 0-8-0's with decoders installed. The draw bar and eight pin plug to the tender from the loco was placed in position.





This is an easy installation if you have the right decoder. The Lenz silver mini decoder with a NMRA eight pin plug and a shortened harness is ideal to use in this steamer.

Still to be added are hand grabs on the tender, Z scale MT #905 couplers on the front pilot and tender, and some brass detailing on the steamer. The cab roof will be painted a mineral red which was used on many Southern steamers.

Stay cool and run steam.... B) B)
[url=http:///www.powersteamguy1790.com/]POWERSTEAMGUY1790'S JJJ&E[/url]
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asarge
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asarge
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19 Nov 2007, 21:36 #2

Ahhh, so there is enough of a gap under the weight for the decoder to fit without raising the weight. Bob, how snug was the fit between the weight and the board?
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Powersteamguy1790
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19 Nov 2007, 23:24 #3

asarge @ Nov 19 2007, 05:36 PM wrote: Ahhh, so there is enough of a gap under the weight for the decoder to fit without raising the weight. Bob, how snug was the fit between the weight and the board?
Andy:

There is just enough space under the weight for the decoder to slide under it. You must first remove the weight. I would also add a piece of Kapton tape on the bottom of the weight as well.

First I first looked at the configuration in the tender, I saw there was enough space for the Lenz silver mini decoder. I mentioned that very early on the A forum, long before things deteriorated and went out of control.


Not too many listened to me when I made those comments. Now they'll all take credit for coming up with this installation. The Usual "pack" mentality' to say the least.


Stay cool and run steam..... B) B)
[url=http:///www.powersteamguy1790.com/]POWERSTEAMGUY1790'S JJJ&E[/url]
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GeePeers
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GeePeers
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Joined: 09 Nov 2006, 13:12

20 Nov 2007, 02:16 #4

Powersteamguy1790 @ Nov 19 2007, 03:37 PM wrote:Here are the photo's of the Walthers 0-8-0  decoder installation using a Lenz silver mini decoder with a NMRA eight pin plug..............
At some point, I hope this thread gets transferred to the "How-To forum".

By the time I get around to doing this (if ever) I will not be able to find this thread.

Thanks for such a simple pictorial how-to.
Glenn
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Powersteamguy1790
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Joined: 06 Dec 2006, 00:27

20 Nov 2007, 02:25 #5

GeePeers @ Nov 19 2007, 10:16 PM wrote:
Powersteamguy1790 @ Nov 19 2007, 03:37 PM wrote:Here are the photo's of the Walthers 0-8-0  decoder installation using a Lenz silver mini decoder with a NMRA eight pin plug..............
At some point, I hope this thread gets transferred to the "How-To forum".

By the time I get around to doing this (if ever) I will not be able to find this thread.

Thanks for such a simple pictorial how-to.
Glenn:

At some point in time, I'll post this in the "How To" forum.

Stay cool and run steam...... B) B)
[url=http:///www.powersteamguy1790.com/]POWERSTEAMGUY1790'S JJJ&E[/url]
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hnipper
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hnipper
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20 Nov 2007, 02:30 #6

Bob:
Thanks for the (as usual) clear tutorial.
One of the writers on the A-forum (think it might have been Max) mentioned loosening the drawbar by enlarging a hole in the drawbar. Did you do this?
How about any noticeable stiffness in the wiring harness?
Henry
Way out here in Uncle Pete's land....
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Powersteamguy1790
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20 Nov 2007, 03:05 #7

hnipper @ Nov 19 2007, 10:30 PM wrote: Bob:
Thanks for the (as usual) clear tutorial.
One of the writers on the A-forum (think it might have been Max) mentioned loosening the drawbar by enlarging a hole in the drawbar. Did you do this?
How about any noticeable stiffness in the wiring harness?
Henry
Thanks Henry.

I didn't touch the draw bar as yet. It's too long as noted elsewhere. I did loosen the screw that hold the draw bar in place by one half turn.

My main object was to get decoders in the two 0-8-0's that I have, so I could run them and get a fair appraisal of how well they perform. A DC loco won't run well on a DCC system especially when there are five reverse loops. (always reversing direction)

The draw bar wiring harness is very stiff. I'll play with the wiring and position of the plug into the tender to see if I can relieve the stiffness. Unlike Max who runs DC, I need the six wire harness for DCC. The plug into the tender bothers me as it can loosen up very easily if it isn't fully seated. I have to work on this loco after Thanksgiving as I'll be in Dallas till next Tuesday.

I might also add a bit of lead weight in the cab below the windows to give the steamer a better balance. This would improve the tracking. I also might add a toolbox which would have some lead weight inside between the tender trucks. This also would improve the tracking of the tender. I usually add a tool box on most of my steamers anyways. So this steamer wouldn't be any different. Just minor tweaking would do the trick. This steamer doesn't require a major overhaul as others have done in the past few days. When this happens they usually wind up as "shelf queens". Adding too much weight could create undo stress on the working mechanism of this steamer. I've seen it happen many times in the past. I'm very reluctant to take this approach as I'm happy with the performance and pulling power of this small steamer. I take a very realistic approach regarding the performance of N scale steam as it does have it's limitations.

All in all, I'm very pleased with this steamer. It needs a bit of tweaking but it ran very well out of the box.

Stay cool and run steam..... B) B)
[url=http:///www.powersteamguy1790.com/]POWERSTEAMGUY1790'S JJJ&E[/url]
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asarge
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asarge
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20 Nov 2007, 04:48 #8

I have witnessed two being tested at the shop. On both the wirung harness went in easier that I thought it would but it wasn't so easy to get disconnect it...at least on the first one but hey, everything has a learning curve. The drawbar was more difficutl especially one the first one when 10 people are standing around you trying to help. I didn't lose a screw but did drop one. Walthers should give you at least one extra screw.

It'll be interesting to see how the sound install goes, especialy with the speaker location. Using the coal bunker could be touchy with the weight being where is.
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Powersteamguy1790
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20 Nov 2007, 14:27 #9

asarge @ Nov 20 2007, 12:48 AM wrote: I have witnessed two being tested at the shop. On both the wirung harness went in easier that I thought it would but it wasn't so easy to get disconnect it...at least on the first one but hey, everything has a learning curve. The drawbar was more difficutl especially one the first one when 10 people are standing around you trying to help. I didn't lose a screw but did drop one. Walthers should give you at least one extra screw.

It'll be interesting to see how the sound install goes, especialy with the speaker location. Using the coal bunker could be touchy with the weight being where is.
Andy:


I'll probably start a sound decoder installation in the Walthers 0-8-0 sometime after Thanksgiving. I have to pick up another loco and order a Lok-Sound decoder for small steam. They have a decoder for a 0-6-0 which is close.

You'll lose the weight on top as the space is needed for the decoder which is 10x25mm and also the speaker which is still larger. The second weight might also have to go but you can pack in lead putty around both the speaker and decoder to make up some of that weight which would be lost.

Stay cool and run steam..... B) B)
[url=http:///www.powersteamguy1790.com/]POWERSTEAMGUY1790'S JJJ&E[/url]
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AAM197
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21 Nov 2007, 22:37 #10

Thanks for posting those pics Bob. I,m going to have to get a Lenz decoder with the wires. The plug n play decoder shown, is totally different from the European plug n play decoder. This is what makes me wonder what the NMRA is all about and why they are there. I guess their rules only apply to US products and products that are manufactured for the US, by foreign countries.
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Powersteamguy1790
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21 Nov 2007, 23:14 #11

AAM197 @ Nov 21 2007, 06:37 PM wrote: Thanks for posting those pics Bob. I,m going to have to get a Lenz decoder with the wires. The plug n play decoder shown, is totally different from the European plug n play decoder. This is what makes me wonder what the NMRA is all about and why they are there. I guess their rules only apply to US products and products that are manufactured for the US, by foreign countries.
Andrew:

Just as long as you use the Lenz mini silver decoder you won't have any problems. After you remove the weight make sure you flatten that "rats nest of wires"in the tender floor, in order to get the decoder to seat properly.

The plug from the loco to the tender can move around a bit. Make sure you spread the wires at a slight angle to prevent the tender from riding up. I would have liked a tighter fitting plug for the DCC connection from the loco to the tender.

I still might add some weight to the tender to enhance tracking.

I thought of using the kato Mikado tender wheels in the 0-8-0 tender.However, the Kato Mikado tender wheels don't fit the Walthers 0-8-0 tender. It would require too much surgery to make that happen. They are a better wheel set.


Let me know how your decoder installation goes.

Stay cool and run steam..... B) B)
[url=http:///www.powersteamguy1790.com/]POWERSTEAMGUY1790'S JJJ&E[/url]
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rschaffter
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Joined: 08 Nov 2006, 19:01

22 Nov 2007, 01:41 #12

AAM197 @ Nov 21 2007, 05:37 PM wrote: Thanks for posting those pics Bob. I,m going to have to get a Lenz decoder with the wires. The plug n play decoder shown, is totally different from the European plug n play decoder.  This is what makes me wonder what the NMRA is all about and why they are there. I guess their rules only apply to US products and products that are manufactured for the US, by foreign countries.
Andrew,

Europe has their own set of standards, the NEM standards, issued by the MOROP. I believe they are used in Japan as well. The are not identical to the NMRA standards by any means. Here is the MOROP site-the English version is only selected standards and is not official (perhaps because British N is 1:148, not 1:160):

http://www.morop.org/en/normes/index.html

Here's the Real Deal:

http://www.miba.de/morop/index.htm
Cheers,
Rod Schafffter

--
"I loathe populism. But if there ever has been a moment when reasonable men's hands itch for the pitchfork, this must surely be it."
--Jonah Goldberg
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Powersteamguy1790
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22 Nov 2007, 01:47 #13

AAM197 @ Nov 21 2007, 06:37 PM wrote: Thanks for posting those pics Bob. I,m going to have to get a Lenz decoder with the wires. The plug n play decoder shown, is totally different from the European plug n play decoder. This is what makes me wonder what the NMRA is all about and why they are there. I guess their rules only apply to US products and products that are manufactured for the US, by foreign countries.
Andrew:

You can always order a NMRA plug from Tony's Trains in Essex Jct. Vermont to use with your Lenz mini silver decoder. They ship all over the world.


Stay cool and run steam..... B) B)
[url=http:///www.powersteamguy1790.com/]POWERSTEAMGUY1790'S JJJ&E[/url]
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mmagliaro
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mmagliaro
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23 Nov 2007, 02:41 #14

Just to clarify, I didn't enlarge the hole in the drawbar.
I did 2 things.

1. Cut the end off the engine end of the drawbar, drill a new smaller hole in remaining end of
the drawbar there, and then grind down the mounting post under the cab so my new smaller-diameter hole in the drawbar would fit over it. I did all this to achieve a shorter
drawbar.

2. Loosen the tender drawbar mounting screw by 1 turn, so the drawbar can hang looser there,
and the tender is then less inclined to exert upward force through the drawbar that lifts
the rear end of the the loco and reduces traction.

I am sure glad somebody did a photo tutorial on the decoder. I don't even use DCC, but
that's just another example of putting your head down and solving the problem instead of ranting.
Good work.

Thank you. And thank you, PowerSteamGuy1790. Yes, I know you spoke early on about
how to get a decoder in there. Let's let our motto be "Fix the problems, not the blame."

-- Max
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hnipper
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hnipper
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23 Nov 2007, 03:09 #15

MAX, Thanks for clarifying my imprecise question. We have enough fog out there without my adding more.
Re: blame.
A wise man (my Dad) told me that when I point my finger in blame at someone else, there are three more in my fist that are pointing back at me.
I'm still looking forward to getting my two undec 0-8-0s to try on my small loop of Kato track.
Henry
Way out here in Uncle Pete's land....
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