Tamiya StuG III (early) with Legend stowage - lost JL's style

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Tamiya StuG III (early) with Legend stowage - lost JL's style

Joined: April 13th, 2008, 9:48 am

August 13th, 2012, 1:15 am #1

I lost JL's style partly because my first mix of armour yellow was more like buff. It gave an interesting result, but by the time I added more yellow to the mix I was covering much of the underlying shades and contrast. It got worse as the overspray monster took hold of my airbrush whn applying the red brown. Subsequent reapplication of the yellow covered what remained of the experiment. Not to worry - I've learned afew things and now have the opportunity to build the late version in all-over faded armour yellow!

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I used XF-79 Linoleum Deck Brown for the red-brown. The overspray is clear here, as are my efforts to hide it with more yellow. No sign of the underlying contrast any more.

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I used XF-52 Flat Earth, XF-72 Brown (JGSDF), and XF-78 Wooden Deck Tan for the dirty areas at the bottom of the skirts and running gear.

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I'm hoping the filter and oils will blend the overspray together.

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Don't know whether the track armour was also painted in yellow or more likely a conventional track colour. Thoughts/suggestions much appreciated.

Now on to some quiet, spatter-free hand painting. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph.

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Joined: November 1st, 2003, 7:48 am

August 13th, 2012, 7:52 am #2

SDGMS voted at lunch-time, we decided the overspray is unacceptable, you've been kicked out of the club. Sorry

David's Model Pages on Facebook -https://www.facebook.com/modelscale
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Joined: June 4th, 2011, 7:09 pm

August 13th, 2012, 7:53 am #3

I lost JL's style partly because my first mix of armour yellow was more like buff. It gave an interesting result, but by the time I added more yellow to the mix I was covering much of the underlying shades and contrast. It got worse as the overspray monster took hold of my airbrush whn applying the red brown. Subsequent reapplication of the yellow covered what remained of the experiment. Not to worry - I've learned afew things and now have the opportunity to build the late version in all-over faded armour yellow!

[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
I used XF-79 Linoleum Deck Brown for the red-brown. The overspray is clear here, as are my efforts to hide it with more yellow. No sign of the underlying contrast any more.

[/IMG]
I used XF-52 Flat Earth, XF-72 Brown (JGSDF), and XF-78 Wooden Deck Tan for the dirty areas at the bottom of the skirts and running gear.

[/IMG]
[/IMG]
I'm hoping the filter and oils will blend the overspray together.

[/IMG]
Don't know whether the track armour was also painted in yellow or more likely a conventional track colour. Thoughts/suggestions much appreciated.

Now on to some quiet, spatter-free hand painting. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph.
I got a feeling that Jose Luis used really thin paint for basecoat.

http://roman-bizarre.blogspot.com/
https://www.facebook.com/rvscale/
https://roman-the-modelmaker.blogspot.no/
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Joined: March 26th, 2003, 4:28 pm

August 13th, 2012, 8:58 am #4

I lost JL's style partly because my first mix of armour yellow was more like buff. It gave an interesting result, but by the time I added more yellow to the mix I was covering much of the underlying shades and contrast. It got worse as the overspray monster took hold of my airbrush whn applying the red brown. Subsequent reapplication of the yellow covered what remained of the experiment. Not to worry - I've learned afew things and now have the opportunity to build the late version in all-over faded armour yellow!

[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
I used XF-79 Linoleum Deck Brown for the red-brown. The overspray is clear here, as are my efforts to hide it with more yellow. No sign of the underlying contrast any more.

[/IMG]
I used XF-52 Flat Earth, XF-72 Brown (JGSDF), and XF-78 Wooden Deck Tan for the dirty areas at the bottom of the skirts and running gear.

[/IMG]
[/IMG]
I'm hoping the filter and oils will blend the overspray together.

[/IMG]
Don't know whether the track armour was also painted in yellow or more likely a conventional track colour. Thoughts/suggestions much appreciated.

Now on to some quiet, spatter-free hand painting. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph.
Ralph,

As I said before you are improving on every model and this is no exception. As for enhancing the light effect on the paint -using JL style or any other- the first point -apart the singular technique you use later- is to understand you have to exagerate the light fall-off much more than you think to make the effect noticeable at the end, because -in this case- the camouflage and the weathering process will tone down all that high contrast as the model goes. Well that is hard to make right at first attempt particularly because one thinks that is going to far when making overexposed effects in the beginning, but I am sure you already experienced a change and are understanding well how the process goes thanks to this attemp, so go ahead and do not be affraid to try new things to enrich your very own style.

Roman is very correct JL uses very thinned paint, but over a very contrasted base too. Anyways my advice is to have a long conversation with JL directly and he will give you all aid you would need.

Beautiful Stug, and very elaborated camo scheme too.

Keep us posted amigo.
Lu

<img border="0" src="http://www.onefortyeight.com/share/148.gif" alt="148.gif">

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Joined: January 7th, 2009, 10:46 am

August 13th, 2012, 9:16 am #5

I lost JL's style partly because my first mix of armour yellow was more like buff. It gave an interesting result, but by the time I added more yellow to the mix I was covering much of the underlying shades and contrast. It got worse as the overspray monster took hold of my airbrush whn applying the red brown. Subsequent reapplication of the yellow covered what remained of the experiment. Not to worry - I've learned afew things and now have the opportunity to build the late version in all-over faded armour yellow!

[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
I used XF-79 Linoleum Deck Brown for the red-brown. The overspray is clear here, as are my efforts to hide it with more yellow. No sign of the underlying contrast any more.

[/IMG]
I used XF-52 Flat Earth, XF-72 Brown (JGSDF), and XF-78 Wooden Deck Tan for the dirty areas at the bottom of the skirts and running gear.

[/IMG]
[/IMG]
I'm hoping the filter and oils will blend the overspray together.

[/IMG]
Don't know whether the track armour was also painted in yellow or more likely a conventional track colour. Thoughts/suggestions much appreciated.

Now on to some quiet, spatter-free hand painting. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph.
As Roman and Mr Lu said my normal mix is 20-30% paint and the rest, thinner. Yes, dirty thinner!

And, use the airbrush not as a brush. Let me explain. I think that it´s not Ralph situation, but many modellers as they move the airbrush, they want to see the color on the kit finished. And that´s a mistake! With the airbrush you have to pass several,many times over the same surface to get your color. You pass one time, then go to another place, to another, then you return again ... and again to another place .... it´s a long and tedious work, but the results are excellent for my taste.

You get not only a smooth surface, even you get a really rich surface because as you´re not a robot and you do not pass the airbrush the same times over all the surfaces. So, as some times it´s a random task, you´ll get different plates with different colors due the different number of base coats applied over during the procces. The result is atractive, the same color with different intensities!

If you use a B&W base, of course, as Mr Lu said, the contrast of the base must be extreme!

Anyway, I like that Stug, love the color richness of the surfaces and with a little bit of weathering, the result will be outstanding. Keep on that way!



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Joined: April 19th, 2009, 5:01 pm

August 13th, 2012, 9:56 am #6

I lost JL's style partly because my first mix of armour yellow was more like buff. It gave an interesting result, but by the time I added more yellow to the mix I was covering much of the underlying shades and contrast. It got worse as the overspray monster took hold of my airbrush whn applying the red brown. Subsequent reapplication of the yellow covered what remained of the experiment. Not to worry - I've learned afew things and now have the opportunity to build the late version in all-over faded armour yellow!

[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
I used XF-79 Linoleum Deck Brown for the red-brown. The overspray is clear here, as are my efforts to hide it with more yellow. No sign of the underlying contrast any more.

[/IMG]
I used XF-52 Flat Earth, XF-72 Brown (JGSDF), and XF-78 Wooden Deck Tan for the dirty areas at the bottom of the skirts and running gear.

[/IMG]
[/IMG]
I'm hoping the filter and oils will blend the overspray together.

[/IMG]
Don't know whether the track armour was also painted in yellow or more likely a conventional track colour. Thoughts/suggestions much appreciated.

Now on to some quiet, spatter-free hand painting. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph.
Hi Ralph,
sorry bit late on this, if you get a chance you need to position the MG shield as if its flipped over the other way towards the front tracks, as that's the way they were positioned with the hatches closed, the loaders wouldn't;t like that as is if there was a quick exit planned!!!!

As for the painting, its great mate, love the scheme and looking forward to another finished GB build, your really putting us all to shame...well me definitely, glad so see them all though , keep it up.

kind regards
Doug
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Joined: July 11th, 2005, 1:07 pm

August 13th, 2012, 4:26 pm #7

Hi

Like the StuG. Think you recovered well and it looks good.

Comments.
As its only 1/2 way through no real issues I can see.

Spare Track colour.
I have seen all version of painted to not painted.think it depends on when the tank/spg was painted. Soldiers are very lazy on these things. Tracks are heavy things so may be not removed before camo brown sprayed on, unless ordered to to by nco/ officer

For me I would I would go for track colour with an over painting of the camo brown to match the pattern.

Loader MG shield.
The shield is seen in photos to be folded both to the front and to the rear. It WAS designed to be folded to the read and then as the loaders hatch was opened, the hatch slid down the shield ( thats what the crest shape on the rear of the shield is for)and lock on the the verticle pin on the shield rear ( thats what the tab with the hole in it on the front loaders hatch is for). That way it protects the loader when opening his hatch to the MG.

So me thinks folded to the front in non combat areas but to the rear in combat. As you have the CO's SF14Z being used, it looks like a combat situation to me.
HTH

Cheers
Andrew

PS lovin the StuGs. my fav spg.

Last edited by deeley on August 13th, 2012, 4:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: April 19th, 2009, 5:01 pm

August 13th, 2012, 4:51 pm #8

Hey Andrew,

well that's me told huh !!!! lol, seriously though that's great info, mine was obviously slightly wrong.

kind regards
Doug
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Joined: April 13th, 2008, 9:48 am

August 13th, 2012, 10:20 pm #9

SDGMS voted at lunch-time, we decided the overspray is unacceptable, you've been kicked out of the club. Sorry

David's Model Pages on Facebook -https://www.facebook.com/modelscale
No: on second thoughts; "It's a fair cop.".
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Joined: April 13th, 2008, 9:48 am

August 13th, 2012, 10:22 pm #10

I got a feeling that Jose Luis used really thin paint for basecoat.

http://roman-bizarre.blogspot.com/
Hello Roman: yes - after reading JL's post, I think I can thin the paint more. I also think the technique is more suited to single-colour schemes. Cheers, Ralph.
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