Shapeways 3D stuff

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This "virtual workbench" is hosted by Robert Oehler and Brett Green, and is designed so that Missing-lynx readers can share their "in progress" photos with the rest of the readership and generate constructive discussions. Participation is open to all Missing-lynx visitors.

Shapeways 3D stuff

Joined: November 25th, 2015, 8:13 pm

March 1st, 2017, 10:05 pm #1

Just bought the driver compartment for the Meng "Shilka" from Shapeways - man, I couldn't believe the detail in those things!! I've never worked with this 3D stuff before, does anyone have any experience with it? I primed the parts with automotive primer, and have yet to cut the pieces from the sprues - are there pitfalls? I know it's pretty fragile stuff so any advice will be greatly appreciated. TIA
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Joined: February 19th, 2017, 5:23 pm

March 2nd, 2017, 11:36 am #2

I've used 3D printed items and just treat them as regular plastic parts. Prime with Tamiya rattle can and airbrush with Tamiya acrylics.
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Joined: February 22nd, 2001, 4:07 am

March 2nd, 2017, 12:44 pm #3

Just bought the driver compartment for the Meng "Shilka" from Shapeways - man, I couldn't believe the detail in those things!! I've never worked with this 3D stuff before, does anyone have any experience with it? I primed the parts with automotive primer, and have yet to cut the pieces from the sprues - are there pitfalls? I know it's pretty fragile stuff so any advice will be greatly appreciated. TIA
Examine the parts after you've primered. Sometimes minute ridges appear, a remnant of the printing process. If so, sand or file down those ridges and primer again.

Use a razor saw when removing from the runner -- don't try to force it like you would normal resin parts. Use CA to affix to your model. Good luck!
Roy Chow
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Joined: April 10th, 2008, 5:50 pm

March 2nd, 2017, 5:07 pm #4

Just bought the driver compartment for the Meng "Shilka" from Shapeways - man, I couldn't believe the detail in those things!! I've never worked with this 3D stuff before, does anyone have any experience with it? I primed the parts with automotive primer, and have yet to cut the pieces from the sprues - are there pitfalls? I know it's pretty fragile stuff so any advice will be greatly appreciated. TIA
I have bought some of the Shapeways products for myself. Instructions highly recommend washing the parts in warm soapy water to remove any of the "wax" material before assembly and paint.
Mark
Mark Ford
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Joined: November 25th, 2015, 8:13 pm

March 2nd, 2017, 6:53 pm #5

Just bought the driver compartment for the Meng "Shilka" from Shapeways - man, I couldn't believe the detail in those things!! I've never worked with this 3D stuff before, does anyone have any experience with it? I primed the parts with automotive primer, and have yet to cut the pieces from the sprues - are there pitfalls? I know it's pretty fragile stuff so any advice will be greatly appreciated. TIA
Thank you for your input, men! N/T
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Joined: March 28th, 2014, 10:35 pm

March 8th, 2017, 7:29 pm #6

Just bought the driver compartment for the Meng "Shilka" from Shapeways - man, I couldn't believe the detail in those things!! I've never worked with this 3D stuff before, does anyone have any experience with it? I primed the parts with automotive primer, and have yet to cut the pieces from the sprues - are there pitfalls? I know it's pretty fragile stuff so any advice will be greatly appreciated. TIA
Everything that the above members said but before priming, you should've let the parts sit in sunlight or under a UV lamp for a few hours to cure any uncured resin. Then rinse the parts in warm soapy water or soak them in dish detergent and lightly scrub with a soft brush to remove grease or wax. You could also soak the parts in White Spirit (but nothing stronger) for a few minutes and then let dry completely. Then prime the parts with acrylic primer. Do **not** use any solvent based paints on the 3D printed parts because the paints could not dry properly and at worst melt the resin. I'm even weary of using Tamiya "acrylics" because they aren't true acrylics and are flammable.

To attach the parts I'm sure you're aware that you need to use CA or super-glue.
Last edited by MikeyBugs95 on March 8th, 2017, 8:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: August 6th, 2004, 9:24 pm

March 10th, 2017, 7:31 pm #7

the items had tiny bumps all over them. Great for helmets trying to look like the paint had sand poured in like a lot of GI helmets had, but the bumps didn't look so great on a stamped metal gun part. As for the helmets, I wish I had known about the solvent thinner paint prohibiton. Two weeks later, the helmets were soft and sticky. So, watch out, boys! Don't do what I did or you'll end up at the House of the Rising Yelp.
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