Revell SdKfz 7 - the second level

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Revell SdKfz 7 - the second level

Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 11:19 am

July 10th, 2012, 7:17 pm #1

Gentelmen,

this is the second part of the thread below:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/47210/me ... first+look

Next up was to bend the tracks, and it works wonderful - without heating in any way, the tracks are simply fantastic, they are almost as flexible as the Dragon DS-tracks, I will not wonder, if such tracks become as a standart in future. Just look:




The tracks are a little bit to long, I had to cut one link - and then they fit perfect. Passing is so good, that one allmost needs no glue to lay them over the sprocket.

Here is the detailling of the winch: I made it thinner and add a rope made from drilled wire. Much work for a part, that won't be visible at the finished model...




Now it was time, to go forward with the upper hull. Part 35 (the drivers cab-floor): the details of the interior are ok, they even did not forget the two hand gears for the gas and radiator, but the floor leaves room for an aftermarket manufactureur to gives us some etched floor plates with an pattern. Something I detailled with some spare etched parts are the anti-slip steps on the outside. I also replaced the handle by one made from wire. The parts of the hull go together very well, in general passing on the whole model is excellent. You could leave the doors to the ammo-shells open, a very good option for a dio.

The baskets on the rear deck (parts 59,60,58) are superb, part 58 is a 'to bend-part' - and again this works! Of course one could replace them by ones made from wire, but in my opinion the plastic ones are sufficient, anyhow I plan to make them full of stowage.




I decided to paint the rifles before asembling, thats the reason I layed a first coat of paint in the interior of the crew. The rifles are litlle gems, allmost as excellent as the Preiser ones, great!


Parts 62 , 61 : the folded tarp. I lay some tissue-paper drenched in white glue about it, to made a more realistic looking texture. As mentioned before, the tarp for the whole vehicle is very good, but I want to leave it open and sit some figures in it.




The front of the vehicle: The only gaps I found to fill before glueing part 26 (radiator grill), except of them it seems that putty have not to be used.


Many space for a (after market-) engine. Removed the plastic parts on the side grills imitating the handles and replaced them by spare etched ones.


Due to my references on the vehicles front, between the enginecover and the body should be a kind of a (leather?) sripe, fixed by two lines of bolts - unfortunately this detail is missing. I tried my best to made it, but it is still not right either. Look here for details on a real vehicle:
http://www.toadmanstankpictures.com/sdkfz7.htm





That is so far I came, at least a pic of a general view with the trackworks mounted makeshift to the hull.


To be continued...
All comments welcome,
Cheers,

Christian
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Joined: April 5th, 2004, 3:57 am

July 10th, 2012, 7:26 pm #2

good tips, not sure I like the rounded sides of the bonnet,
the tracks sound great & the need to watch for those holes under the radiator
Cheers Elliott
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Joined: July 1st, 2009, 6:49 pm

July 10th, 2012, 7:39 pm #3

Gentelmen,

this is the second part of the thread below:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/47210/me ... first+look

Next up was to bend the tracks, and it works wonderful - without heating in any way, the tracks are simply fantastic, they are almost as flexible as the Dragon DS-tracks, I will not wonder, if such tracks become as a standart in future. Just look:




The tracks are a little bit to long, I had to cut one link - and then they fit perfect. Passing is so good, that one allmost needs no glue to lay them over the sprocket.

Here is the detailling of the winch: I made it thinner and add a rope made from drilled wire. Much work for a part, that won't be visible at the finished model...




Now it was time, to go forward with the upper hull. Part 35 (the drivers cab-floor): the details of the interior are ok, they even did not forget the two hand gears for the gas and radiator, but the floor leaves room for an aftermarket manufactureur to gives us some etched floor plates with an pattern. Something I detailled with some spare etched parts are the anti-slip steps on the outside. I also replaced the handle by one made from wire. The parts of the hull go together very well, in general passing on the whole model is excellent. You could leave the doors to the ammo-shells open, a very good option for a dio.

The baskets on the rear deck (parts 59,60,58) are superb, part 58 is a 'to bend-part' - and again this works! Of course one could replace them by ones made from wire, but in my opinion the plastic ones are sufficient, anyhow I plan to make them full of stowage.




I decided to paint the rifles before asembling, thats the reason I layed a first coat of paint in the interior of the crew. The rifles are litlle gems, allmost as excellent as the Preiser ones, great!


Parts 62 , 61 : the folded tarp. I lay some tissue-paper drenched in white glue about it, to made a more realistic looking texture. As mentioned before, the tarp for the whole vehicle is very good, but I want to leave it open and sit some figures in it.




The front of the vehicle: The only gaps I found to fill before glueing part 26 (radiator grill), except of them it seems that putty have not to be used.


Many space for a (after market-) engine. Removed the plastic parts on the side grills imitating the handles and replaced them by spare etched ones.


Due to my references on the vehicles front, between the enginecover and the body should be a kind of a (leather?) sripe, fixed by two lines of bolts - unfortunately this detail is missing. I tried my best to made it, but it is still not right either. Look here for details on a real vehicle:
http://www.toadmanstankpictures.com/sdkfz7.htm





That is so far I came, at least a pic of a general view with the trackworks mounted makeshift to the hull.


To be continued...
All comments welcome,
Cheers,

Christian
Hi Christian,

Thanks for the guide, it does look a nice kit. Not being a total rivet counter, I can live with some of it's errors as it looks right and as the old engineering saying goes '....if it looks right, then it is right...' (I am sure some people will criticise me for that attitude, but whatever...). I shall be getting one as soon as I see one for sale and the 88 to go with it.

All the best,

Paul
“Whoever said the pen is mightier than the sword obviously never encountered automatic weapons.”
― Douglas MacArthur
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Joined: July 5th, 2005, 7:24 pm

July 10th, 2012, 8:05 pm #4

Gentelmen,

this is the second part of the thread below:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/47210/me ... first+look

Next up was to bend the tracks, and it works wonderful - without heating in any way, the tracks are simply fantastic, they are almost as flexible as the Dragon DS-tracks, I will not wonder, if such tracks become as a standart in future. Just look:




The tracks are a little bit to long, I had to cut one link - and then they fit perfect. Passing is so good, that one allmost needs no glue to lay them over the sprocket.

Here is the detailling of the winch: I made it thinner and add a rope made from drilled wire. Much work for a part, that won't be visible at the finished model...




Now it was time, to go forward with the upper hull. Part 35 (the drivers cab-floor): the details of the interior are ok, they even did not forget the two hand gears for the gas and radiator, but the floor leaves room for an aftermarket manufactureur to gives us some etched floor plates with an pattern. Something I detailled with some spare etched parts are the anti-slip steps on the outside. I also replaced the handle by one made from wire. The parts of the hull go together very well, in general passing on the whole model is excellent. You could leave the doors to the ammo-shells open, a very good option for a dio.

The baskets on the rear deck (parts 59,60,58) are superb, part 58 is a 'to bend-part' - and again this works! Of course one could replace them by ones made from wire, but in my opinion the plastic ones are sufficient, anyhow I plan to make them full of stowage.




I decided to paint the rifles before asembling, thats the reason I layed a first coat of paint in the interior of the crew. The rifles are litlle gems, allmost as excellent as the Preiser ones, great!


Parts 62 , 61 : the folded tarp. I lay some tissue-paper drenched in white glue about it, to made a more realistic looking texture. As mentioned before, the tarp for the whole vehicle is very good, but I want to leave it open and sit some figures in it.




The front of the vehicle: The only gaps I found to fill before glueing part 26 (radiator grill), except of them it seems that putty have not to be used.


Many space for a (after market-) engine. Removed the plastic parts on the side grills imitating the handles and replaced them by spare etched ones.


Due to my references on the vehicles front, between the enginecover and the body should be a kind of a (leather?) sripe, fixed by two lines of bolts - unfortunately this detail is missing. I tried my best to made it, but it is still not right either. Look here for details on a real vehicle:
http://www.toadmanstankpictures.com/sdkfz7.htm





That is so far I came, at least a pic of a general view with the trackworks mounted makeshift to the hull.


To be continued...
All comments welcome,
Cheers,

Christian
Hi Christian
Excellent work with a lot of tips and useful reference.
One point very difficult to change:
The rubber on track wheels looks a little bit wide. It seems that in reality the rim had also a flat part outside the bead.(check Toadmans pic) But how to paint the rubber ring without guidance?
Others:
The cap for the cooler is to far backwards.
Did you see Gerts WIP on the OTW side?

regards from Vienna
Robert

Visit our modelling show "Go Modelling" in Military Museum in Vienna at 10/11th march 2012
www.ipms.at
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Joined: November 6th, 2006, 3:03 pm

July 10th, 2012, 8:32 pm #5

Gentelmen,

this is the second part of the thread below:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/47210/me ... first+look

Next up was to bend the tracks, and it works wonderful - without heating in any way, the tracks are simply fantastic, they are almost as flexible as the Dragon DS-tracks, I will not wonder, if such tracks become as a standart in future. Just look:




The tracks are a little bit to long, I had to cut one link - and then they fit perfect. Passing is so good, that one allmost needs no glue to lay them over the sprocket.

Here is the detailling of the winch: I made it thinner and add a rope made from drilled wire. Much work for a part, that won't be visible at the finished model...




Now it was time, to go forward with the upper hull. Part 35 (the drivers cab-floor): the details of the interior are ok, they even did not forget the two hand gears for the gas and radiator, but the floor leaves room for an aftermarket manufactureur to gives us some etched floor plates with an pattern. Something I detailled with some spare etched parts are the anti-slip steps on the outside. I also replaced the handle by one made from wire. The parts of the hull go together very well, in general passing on the whole model is excellent. You could leave the doors to the ammo-shells open, a very good option for a dio.

The baskets on the rear deck (parts 59,60,58) are superb, part 58 is a 'to bend-part' - and again this works! Of course one could replace them by ones made from wire, but in my opinion the plastic ones are sufficient, anyhow I plan to make them full of stowage.




I decided to paint the rifles before asembling, thats the reason I layed a first coat of paint in the interior of the crew. The rifles are litlle gems, allmost as excellent as the Preiser ones, great!


Parts 62 , 61 : the folded tarp. I lay some tissue-paper drenched in white glue about it, to made a more realistic looking texture. As mentioned before, the tarp for the whole vehicle is very good, but I want to leave it open and sit some figures in it.




The front of the vehicle: The only gaps I found to fill before glueing part 26 (radiator grill), except of them it seems that putty have not to be used.


Many space for a (after market-) engine. Removed the plastic parts on the side grills imitating the handles and replaced them by spare etched ones.


Due to my references on the vehicles front, between the enginecover and the body should be a kind of a (leather?) sripe, fixed by two lines of bolts - unfortunately this detail is missing. I tried my best to made it, but it is still not right either. Look here for details on a real vehicle:
http://www.toadmanstankpictures.com/sdkfz7.htm





That is so far I came, at least a pic of a general view with the trackworks mounted makeshift to the hull.


To be continued...
All comments welcome,
Cheers,

Christian
Great in progress review. I am still convinced that this will be a great kit to purchase and you have reinforced my opinion of the work that was undertaken by Mathias to produce a great kit of a sought after vehicle. Keep us posted on your continued progress and thanks again!........ Will
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Joined: January 19th, 2009, 2:57 pm

July 10th, 2012, 10:27 pm #6

very useful thank you.
No possible to miss this kit!!!!
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Joined: March 19th, 2007, 9:06 am

July 11th, 2012, 4:06 am #7

Gentelmen,

this is the second part of the thread below:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/47210/me ... first+look

Next up was to bend the tracks, and it works wonderful - without heating in any way, the tracks are simply fantastic, they are almost as flexible as the Dragon DS-tracks, I will not wonder, if such tracks become as a standart in future. Just look:




The tracks are a little bit to long, I had to cut one link - and then they fit perfect. Passing is so good, that one allmost needs no glue to lay them over the sprocket.

Here is the detailling of the winch: I made it thinner and add a rope made from drilled wire. Much work for a part, that won't be visible at the finished model...




Now it was time, to go forward with the upper hull. Part 35 (the drivers cab-floor): the details of the interior are ok, they even did not forget the two hand gears for the gas and radiator, but the floor leaves room for an aftermarket manufactureur to gives us some etched floor plates with an pattern. Something I detailled with some spare etched parts are the anti-slip steps on the outside. I also replaced the handle by one made from wire. The parts of the hull go together very well, in general passing on the whole model is excellent. You could leave the doors to the ammo-shells open, a very good option for a dio.

The baskets on the rear deck (parts 59,60,58) are superb, part 58 is a 'to bend-part' - and again this works! Of course one could replace them by ones made from wire, but in my opinion the plastic ones are sufficient, anyhow I plan to make them full of stowage.




I decided to paint the rifles before asembling, thats the reason I layed a first coat of paint in the interior of the crew. The rifles are litlle gems, allmost as excellent as the Preiser ones, great!


Parts 62 , 61 : the folded tarp. I lay some tissue-paper drenched in white glue about it, to made a more realistic looking texture. As mentioned before, the tarp for the whole vehicle is very good, but I want to leave it open and sit some figures in it.




The front of the vehicle: The only gaps I found to fill before glueing part 26 (radiator grill), except of them it seems that putty have not to be used.


Many space for a (after market-) engine. Removed the plastic parts on the side grills imitating the handles and replaced them by spare etched ones.


Due to my references on the vehicles front, between the enginecover and the body should be a kind of a (leather?) sripe, fixed by two lines of bolts - unfortunately this detail is missing. I tried my best to made it, but it is still not right either. Look here for details on a real vehicle:
http://www.toadmanstankpictures.com/sdkfz7.htm





That is so far I came, at least a pic of a general view with the trackworks mounted makeshift to the hull.


To be continued...
All comments welcome,
Cheers,

Christian
Looks nice to me, not sure what all the fuss is about. Just wish we could see some non-German subjects more often.
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Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 11:19 am

July 12th, 2012, 4:16 am #8

Gentelmen,

this is the second part of the thread below:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/47210/me ... first+look

Next up was to bend the tracks, and it works wonderful - without heating in any way, the tracks are simply fantastic, they are almost as flexible as the Dragon DS-tracks, I will not wonder, if such tracks become as a standart in future. Just look:




The tracks are a little bit to long, I had to cut one link - and then they fit perfect. Passing is so good, that one allmost needs no glue to lay them over the sprocket.

Here is the detailling of the winch: I made it thinner and add a rope made from drilled wire. Much work for a part, that won't be visible at the finished model...




Now it was time, to go forward with the upper hull. Part 35 (the drivers cab-floor): the details of the interior are ok, they even did not forget the two hand gears for the gas and radiator, but the floor leaves room for an aftermarket manufactureur to gives us some etched floor plates with an pattern. Something I detailled with some spare etched parts are the anti-slip steps on the outside. I also replaced the handle by one made from wire. The parts of the hull go together very well, in general passing on the whole model is excellent. You could leave the doors to the ammo-shells open, a very good option for a dio.

The baskets on the rear deck (parts 59,60,58) are superb, part 58 is a 'to bend-part' - and again this works! Of course one could replace them by ones made from wire, but in my opinion the plastic ones are sufficient, anyhow I plan to make them full of stowage.




I decided to paint the rifles before asembling, thats the reason I layed a first coat of paint in the interior of the crew. The rifles are litlle gems, allmost as excellent as the Preiser ones, great!


Parts 62 , 61 : the folded tarp. I lay some tissue-paper drenched in white glue about it, to made a more realistic looking texture. As mentioned before, the tarp for the whole vehicle is very good, but I want to leave it open and sit some figures in it.




The front of the vehicle: The only gaps I found to fill before glueing part 26 (radiator grill), except of them it seems that putty have not to be used.


Many space for a (after market-) engine. Removed the plastic parts on the side grills imitating the handles and replaced them by spare etched ones.


Due to my references on the vehicles front, between the enginecover and the body should be a kind of a (leather?) sripe, fixed by two lines of bolts - unfortunately this detail is missing. I tried my best to made it, but it is still not right either. Look here for details on a real vehicle:
http://www.toadmanstankpictures.com/sdkfz7.htm





That is so far I came, at least a pic of a general view with the trackworks mounted makeshift to the hull.


To be continued...
All comments welcome,
Cheers,

Christian
Tkank You for Your comments and Your advices guys!
Yes, I do like the kit very much. I think, it is a very good moulded kit, engineered intelligent with a few of great solutions. Every change I made so far I would have made on every other kit, too, I am just no typical OOTB-modeller. And I think, one could make a really good model from this OOTB! Those of us, who like german vehicles, should not missed it!

@Robert:
I have to admit, that I am simply to lazy to change the rubbers, after they are painted and weathered once...
The cooler cap is a good advice, will change this, had not seen this before - that's one of the reasons, I like this forum that much, there is allways someone helping You. Thanks a lot!
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