Retro: Adler KfZ 13 in the Bzura river, Poland, 1939.

.

This "virtual workbench" is hosted by Robert Oehler and Brett Green, and is designed so that Missing-lynx readers can share their "in progress" photos with the rest of the readership and generate constructive discussions. Participation is open to all Missing-lynx visitors.

Retro: Adler KfZ 13 in the Bzura river, Poland, 1939.

Joined: January 12th, 2009, 10:17 am

April 29th, 2010, 8:46 pm #1

Previous warning: looooong and boring post, but making it that way I hope it would be useful for those who are dealing with this armoured car.

Hello everyone!.

This is my last victim: an Adler KfZ 13 scout car belonging to the PanzerSpähSchwadron of the 30th Aufklärungs Abteilung of the 30th Infanterie Division (Briesen), Ulex's X army corp, Blaskowitz's 8th Army, Rudent's army group south, in the outskirts of Zgierz, near the Bzura river during the Polish counter-offensive that took part the 8 of september, 1939.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

It's a resin kit from Jordi Rubio. Sincerely I expected that the casting quality was, uh, better. The read mudguards were poorly casted, removing the pouring blocks wasn't an easy task.The details in the dashboard weren't well defined. Tubular parts were lightly bent... but it is normal in a resin kit. I think the rest of the kit is a bir simplified. I missed some parts such the turning lights (or however they are called), the rhs tool box, the shovel, the backmirror, the parking brake, other weapon choices such the MG 15, decals...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Before going on I'd like to thank Mr.Chris Lloyd-Staples from MAFVA, who kindly sent me a set of Adler user's manual pictures that completely flip over this project. These pictures are now aviable from a download link at the bottom of this post, made by other Missing Links axis forum user. Getting references for this project was more difficult that I thought at first. There are many pictures in the Internet, but too scattered, so I draw my own sketchs. Don't know whether they are visible...

[/img]

The building starts by removing the pouring blocks from the kit's parts, but it is a very delicate task when dealing with the rear mudflaps beacuse the resin there is very thin and brittle, apart of the poor casting. In order to avoid more damage I applied a rather thick coat of Squadron green putty inside the mudflaps and then I cut the casing blocks with a sharp knife (not a razor saw!). Finaly I cleaned the putty from inside the mudflap with industrial thinner.
[/img]

Other pieces were filled with putty beacuse of there were air bubbles, for instance the lhs mudflaps (curiously rhs ones were better casted) and the chassis beams althought it was perfectly straight.

[/img]

There were some big gaps between the hull pan and the rear armour plates, and the same is true for the side doors, so I used styrene strips to fill them.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Apart from a serious detailling work, the rest of the building seemed to be easier...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

... until I got the picts that Chris sent to me. The interior in the Jordi Rubio's kit (and the Brono's one) seems to be inpired in the prototype's one, completely bare. Serie vehicles were full of lockers, ammo case racks, straps holding personal gear, tools, the dashboard is different (it resembles that of the civil version Standard 6), the foot pedals layout is also different, there are many personal items like personal weapons, gas mask bags, smoke candles, tool bags...Futhermore, the MG pedestal and gun mounting is almost the same that the SdKfZ 221 one but without the turret supporting arms. There are many things to be corrected in the chassis and under the floor pan... but no personal strenght left to do that!.

By the way, I had to cut the oil reservoir from the floor pan with the front and rear panels already glued. Carefully, with a sharp and long surgical knife and flexible fingers I got it without much damage apart form the anti-slip texture.

[/img]
[/img]

underneath the floor pan I added a toolbox, a battery box with metal straps and a reinforcing plate under the pedestal attachment point.

[/img]

Then I rebuilt all the armoured car interior, the pedestal and gun mount and the equipment packed inside, from the signal flags to the MG ammo boxes. The MG15 is feed by 15-shots magazines which were stored in boxes of 8 items. I made a box from scratch and copied it with a RTV silicon mould. The personal weapon was an MP28 SMG. I didn't have one left and felt the MP38 was very un-original, so I put a Dragon's ZK383 that fires the same ammo than the former and is very simmilar to the MP 28 as far lenght, weight and look is concerned. What is more, the wooden buttstock would look beautylful in that dark corner of the driver's compartment.

Some picts of the interior.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

MG15 ammo boxes.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Crew gear.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

The new pedestal and gun mounting.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And the new MG15. It is made from a Verlinden MG34 (longer the MG34s enclosed in the kit), a Dragon MG34s pistol grip and trigger and styrene parts.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And after some blood, sweat and tears I detailed the exterior of the car, which happened to seem far easier than the interior!. I used some photo-etched parts from Aber (clamps and claps and german tool holders) and Eduard spares. The parking masts came from RB Models, thinner than the kit's ones. The headlight blackout covers were reworked with epoxy putty. The pendant holder is a photo-etched part from Part.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And some pictures of the final building.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And now the grimmy painting stage. The main aim was get a bright finish from an a priori dark vehicle because of its tinny size and dark camouflage colors. Other times I tried it I got "black holes" with little or no defined camouflage colors, scratches and paint chips. Furthermore, it is a special case because the actual colors of the german army vehicles in the early years of the war were so low contrasted the led the modelers to the wrong convition of there was only one color, the dark grey. So I thought I must use brighter colors in my model.

I also wanted to exercise dusting in models becaused I usually don't get the finishes I want to reach. Now, with a dark-colored vehicle it must be easier...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

After stripping the models, washing it and primming it with that smelling Tamiya spray can (well, I now wear a gas mask whe spraying or airbrushing!) I painted the license plates with Tamiya XF -1 and de white crosses with off-white XF-2 + XF-60.

[/img]

Later I masked the license plates and the crosses and aplied a bright dark gray overall mixing XF-63 + XF-66. After some highlights I airbrushed the red brown stripes with XF-64 + XF-3.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Other problem with this kit was the un-provided decals. I thing it's a serious one beacuse german vehicles had a colourful and intricate set of divisional and tactical markings. I printed my own decals for the 30th Inf.Div. on Expert's Choice white decal film for ink printers and then sealed it with Micro Decal Film. The license plates came from the Italeri's Blitz, so does the tactical marking (very modified). The tire pressure markings came from the Tamiya Kübel.

[/img]

Before the definitive printing I made some test on regular office foil to set the size, resolution and saturacion of the color by double-printing. I set the decals between to coats of gloss varnish with the "help" of Micro Set and Micro Sol products and I say "help" because an excess of Micro Set can destroy this temperamental white decals. Test it on a piece of styrene before going to the model kit.

About the gloss coat, some advice: very thin layer and better applied with and airbrush. More about it later.

Some pict of the Adler with its new decals, scratches, paint chips an some gear already painted before filters.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

I applied a very, very thin filter with brown XF-10 + XF-1 thinned with Humbrol thinner (less agressive than Tamiya's), then many washes with Humbrol enamels Matt 98 and Matt 29, 502 Abteilung oils, rust strains with the same oils (they are perfect!, two steps: first the dark rust oil and then the light rust brown one), pin-washes arround crevis and details with XF-1 and Tamiya's thinner (I like its density for this work), a slight dry-brushing and worn-out metal by rubbing the edges with a 2B pencil.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Other elements. I don't say anything about canvas, tarps and clothes painting because surely you can made a better work than me.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

The MG15.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

In these picts I hadn't applied the flat coat yet. I usually apply Marabu spray flat coat which is a little satin and darken the surface a bit (only a little, nothing to be scared of), but it is a very good product. Anyway I ran out my reserves and had to switch to the Tamiya's one, the TS-80 spray can. Testing it before on a spare sheet I got a flat finish but it reacted with the gloss coat I applied under and on the decals, making it softer (fingerprints sensitive!) and the color turned a little white. But anly a little, only visible if the gloss coat is thick. That's why I said before you should aplly the gloss coat over the decals with an airbrush in thin layers. When it cured, the Tamiya varnish is strong enough to withstand harsh manipulation.

Finaly the dusting stage. I started by apllying a thin layer of XF-57 + XF-64 + XF-63 as a base. In the floor of the interior I applied it with a brush, mostly in the recesses and in an irregular way. Some pencil rubbing over the anti-slip texture and some oil splits made the desired look.
And the last step, pigments. Nothing exoteric, two coats: the first one was a mix of P028 + P027 + P030 + P232 and the last one with P028 only, again in a irregular pattern, fixing them with Humbrol thinner whe necessary.

Some Pict of the half-finished chassis with the dust and oil spilts made with Humbrol gloss black and salad oil.

[/img]
[/img]

And the model finished.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And that's all, folks. If you have read until this point, congratulation, reader.

References about the Adler:

- "German armoured cars and reconaisance half tracks 1939 - 1945". Osprey New Vanguard n29
- "Samochody Pancerne 4x4" Wydawnictwo Militaria n28
- User's manual pictures sent by Mr. Chris Lloyd-Staples, now aviable from http://home.wxs.nl/~ereits/kfz13.pdf
- Many picts from the Internet.

References about the Polish campaign and the vehicles involved:

- "Poland 1939: The birth of the Blitzkrieg". Osprey Campaign n107.
- "Fall Weiss 1939" Wydawnictwo Militaria n66
- "Polska 1939" Wydawnictwo Militaria n277
- "Blitzkrieg: armor cmouflge and markings 1939 - 1940". Arms and Armour Press.
- "Wehrmacht Divisional Signs 1938 - 1945". Altmark Publications.
- "September Storm: the german invasion of Poland". Concord Publications n6510.
- "Panzer Division 1935-1945 1: The early years". Concord Publications n7033.
- "Panzer vor!. German armor at war 1939 - 1945". Concord Publications n7053.
- "German Leichte Panzer at war". Concord Publications n7066.

References about the camouflages patterns and colors.

- "PzKWg 1". Panzer Tracts 1-2, Jentz y Doyle.
- "Panzer facts n4". Jentz y Doyle.
- "Panzer Colors 2". Squadron Signal 6252.

If you have any question or critics, fell free to ask.

Thank you for looking!.

Best regards!.
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: March 12th, 2007, 7:56 pm

April 29th, 2010, 8:52 pm #2

Very nice build with lot of details added to bring at a very high level of accuracy

And a good paint job, not too much chipping or rusting, just what's needed to make a realistic model
Last edited by navy95 on April 29th, 2010, 9:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Like
Share

Joined: July 4th, 2003, 2:33 pm

April 30th, 2010, 2:21 am #3

Previous warning: looooong and boring post, but making it that way I hope it would be useful for those who are dealing with this armoured car.

Hello everyone!.

This is my last victim: an Adler KfZ 13 scout car belonging to the PanzerSpähSchwadron of the 30th Aufklärungs Abteilung of the 30th Infanterie Division (Briesen), Ulex's X army corp, Blaskowitz's 8th Army, Rudent's army group south, in the outskirts of Zgierz, near the Bzura river during the Polish counter-offensive that took part the 8 of september, 1939.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

It's a resin kit from Jordi Rubio. Sincerely I expected that the casting quality was, uh, better. The read mudguards were poorly casted, removing the pouring blocks wasn't an easy task.The details in the dashboard weren't well defined. Tubular parts were lightly bent... but it is normal in a resin kit. I think the rest of the kit is a bir simplified. I missed some parts such the turning lights (or however they are called), the rhs tool box, the shovel, the backmirror, the parking brake, other weapon choices such the MG 15, decals...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Before going on I'd like to thank Mr.Chris Lloyd-Staples from MAFVA, who kindly sent me a set of Adler user's manual pictures that completely flip over this project. These pictures are now aviable from a download link at the bottom of this post, made by other Missing Links axis forum user. Getting references for this project was more difficult that I thought at first. There are many pictures in the Internet, but too scattered, so I draw my own sketchs. Don't know whether they are visible...

[/img]

The building starts by removing the pouring blocks from the kit's parts, but it is a very delicate task when dealing with the rear mudflaps beacuse the resin there is very thin and brittle, apart of the poor casting. In order to avoid more damage I applied a rather thick coat of Squadron green putty inside the mudflaps and then I cut the casing blocks with a sharp knife (not a razor saw!). Finaly I cleaned the putty from inside the mudflap with industrial thinner.
[/img]

Other pieces were filled with putty beacuse of there were air bubbles, for instance the lhs mudflaps (curiously rhs ones were better casted) and the chassis beams althought it was perfectly straight.

[/img]

There were some big gaps between the hull pan and the rear armour plates, and the same is true for the side doors, so I used styrene strips to fill them.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Apart from a serious detailling work, the rest of the building seemed to be easier...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

... until I got the picts that Chris sent to me. The interior in the Jordi Rubio's kit (and the Brono's one) seems to be inpired in the prototype's one, completely bare. Serie vehicles were full of lockers, ammo case racks, straps holding personal gear, tools, the dashboard is different (it resembles that of the civil version Standard 6), the foot pedals layout is also different, there are many personal items like personal weapons, gas mask bags, smoke candles, tool bags...Futhermore, the MG pedestal and gun mounting is almost the same that the SdKfZ 221 one but without the turret supporting arms. There are many things to be corrected in the chassis and under the floor pan... but no personal strenght left to do that!.

By the way, I had to cut the oil reservoir from the floor pan with the front and rear panels already glued. Carefully, with a sharp and long surgical knife and flexible fingers I got it without much damage apart form the anti-slip texture.

[/img]
[/img]

underneath the floor pan I added a toolbox, a battery box with metal straps and a reinforcing plate under the pedestal attachment point.

[/img]

Then I rebuilt all the armoured car interior, the pedestal and gun mount and the equipment packed inside, from the signal flags to the MG ammo boxes. The MG15 is feed by 15-shots magazines which were stored in boxes of 8 items. I made a box from scratch and copied it with a RTV silicon mould. The personal weapon was an MP28 SMG. I didn't have one left and felt the MP38 was very un-original, so I put a Dragon's ZK383 that fires the same ammo than the former and is very simmilar to the MP 28 as far lenght, weight and look is concerned. What is more, the wooden buttstock would look beautylful in that dark corner of the driver's compartment.

Some picts of the interior.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

MG15 ammo boxes.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Crew gear.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

The new pedestal and gun mounting.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And the new MG15. It is made from a Verlinden MG34 (longer the MG34s enclosed in the kit), a Dragon MG34s pistol grip and trigger and styrene parts.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And after some blood, sweat and tears I detailed the exterior of the car, which happened to seem far easier than the interior!. I used some photo-etched parts from Aber (clamps and claps and german tool holders) and Eduard spares. The parking masts came from RB Models, thinner than the kit's ones. The headlight blackout covers were reworked with epoxy putty. The pendant holder is a photo-etched part from Part.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And some pictures of the final building.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And now the grimmy painting stage. The main aim was get a bright finish from an a priori dark vehicle because of its tinny size and dark camouflage colors. Other times I tried it I got "black holes" with little or no defined camouflage colors, scratches and paint chips. Furthermore, it is a special case because the actual colors of the german army vehicles in the early years of the war were so low contrasted the led the modelers to the wrong convition of there was only one color, the dark grey. So I thought I must use brighter colors in my model.

I also wanted to exercise dusting in models becaused I usually don't get the finishes I want to reach. Now, with a dark-colored vehicle it must be easier...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

After stripping the models, washing it and primming it with that smelling Tamiya spray can (well, I now wear a gas mask whe spraying or airbrushing!) I painted the license plates with Tamiya XF -1 and de white crosses with off-white XF-2 + XF-60.

[/img]

Later I masked the license plates and the crosses and aplied a bright dark gray overall mixing XF-63 + XF-66. After some highlights I airbrushed the red brown stripes with XF-64 + XF-3.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Other problem with this kit was the un-provided decals. I thing it's a serious one beacuse german vehicles had a colourful and intricate set of divisional and tactical markings. I printed my own decals for the 30th Inf.Div. on Expert's Choice white decal film for ink printers and then sealed it with Micro Decal Film. The license plates came from the Italeri's Blitz, so does the tactical marking (very modified). The tire pressure markings came from the Tamiya Kübel.

[/img]

Before the definitive printing I made some test on regular office foil to set the size, resolution and saturacion of the color by double-printing. I set the decals between to coats of gloss varnish with the "help" of Micro Set and Micro Sol products and I say "help" because an excess of Micro Set can destroy this temperamental white decals. Test it on a piece of styrene before going to the model kit.

About the gloss coat, some advice: very thin layer and better applied with and airbrush. More about it later.

Some pict of the Adler with its new decals, scratches, paint chips an some gear already painted before filters.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

I applied a very, very thin filter with brown XF-10 + XF-1 thinned with Humbrol thinner (less agressive than Tamiya's), then many washes with Humbrol enamels Matt 98 and Matt 29, 502 Abteilung oils, rust strains with the same oils (they are perfect!, two steps: first the dark rust oil and then the light rust brown one), pin-washes arround crevis and details with XF-1 and Tamiya's thinner (I like its density for this work), a slight dry-brushing and worn-out metal by rubbing the edges with a 2B pencil.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Other elements. I don't say anything about canvas, tarps and clothes painting because surely you can made a better work than me.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

The MG15.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

In these picts I hadn't applied the flat coat yet. I usually apply Marabu spray flat coat which is a little satin and darken the surface a bit (only a little, nothing to be scared of), but it is a very good product. Anyway I ran out my reserves and had to switch to the Tamiya's one, the TS-80 spray can. Testing it before on a spare sheet I got a flat finish but it reacted with the gloss coat I applied under and on the decals, making it softer (fingerprints sensitive!) and the color turned a little white. But anly a little, only visible if the gloss coat is thick. That's why I said before you should aplly the gloss coat over the decals with an airbrush in thin layers. When it cured, the Tamiya varnish is strong enough to withstand harsh manipulation.

Finaly the dusting stage. I started by apllying a thin layer of XF-57 + XF-64 + XF-63 as a base. In the floor of the interior I applied it with a brush, mostly in the recesses and in an irregular way. Some pencil rubbing over the anti-slip texture and some oil splits made the desired look.
And the last step, pigments. Nothing exoteric, two coats: the first one was a mix of P028 + P027 + P030 + P232 and the last one with P028 only, again in a irregular pattern, fixing them with Humbrol thinner whe necessary.

Some Pict of the half-finished chassis with the dust and oil spilts made with Humbrol gloss black and salad oil.

[/img]
[/img]

And the model finished.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And that's all, folks. If you have read until this point, congratulation, reader.

References about the Adler:

- "German armoured cars and reconaisance half tracks 1939 - 1945". Osprey New Vanguard n29
- "Samochody Pancerne 4x4" Wydawnictwo Militaria n28
- User's manual pictures sent by Mr. Chris Lloyd-Staples, now aviable from http://home.wxs.nl/~ereits/kfz13.pdf
- Many picts from the Internet.

References about the Polish campaign and the vehicles involved:

- "Poland 1939: The birth of the Blitzkrieg". Osprey Campaign n107.
- "Fall Weiss 1939" Wydawnictwo Militaria n66
- "Polska 1939" Wydawnictwo Militaria n277
- "Blitzkrieg: armor cmouflge and markings 1939 - 1940". Arms and Armour Press.
- "Wehrmacht Divisional Signs 1938 - 1945". Altmark Publications.
- "September Storm: the german invasion of Poland". Concord Publications n6510.
- "Panzer Division 1935-1945 1: The early years". Concord Publications n7033.
- "Panzer vor!. German armor at war 1939 - 1945". Concord Publications n7053.
- "German Leichte Panzer at war". Concord Publications n7066.

References about the camouflages patterns and colors.

- "PzKWg 1". Panzer Tracts 1-2, Jentz y Doyle.
- "Panzer facts n4". Jentz y Doyle.
- "Panzer Colors 2". Squadron Signal 6252.

If you have any question or critics, fell free to ask.

Thank you for looking!.

Best regards!.
you made the Adler with all your changes to a real Masterpice of modelling.
Amazing work one of the best models i saw this year.

greetings Detlev

http://panzer-modell.de.tl/
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: May 1st, 2005, 8:08 pm

April 30th, 2010, 2:29 am #4

Previous warning: looooong and boring post, but making it that way I hope it would be useful for those who are dealing with this armoured car.

Hello everyone!.

This is my last victim: an Adler KfZ 13 scout car belonging to the PanzerSpähSchwadron of the 30th Aufklärungs Abteilung of the 30th Infanterie Division (Briesen), Ulex's X army corp, Blaskowitz's 8th Army, Rudent's army group south, in the outskirts of Zgierz, near the Bzura river during the Polish counter-offensive that took part the 8 of september, 1939.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

It's a resin kit from Jordi Rubio. Sincerely I expected that the casting quality was, uh, better. The read mudguards were poorly casted, removing the pouring blocks wasn't an easy task.The details in the dashboard weren't well defined. Tubular parts were lightly bent... but it is normal in a resin kit. I think the rest of the kit is a bir simplified. I missed some parts such the turning lights (or however they are called), the rhs tool box, the shovel, the backmirror, the parking brake, other weapon choices such the MG 15, decals...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Before going on I'd like to thank Mr.Chris Lloyd-Staples from MAFVA, who kindly sent me a set of Adler user's manual pictures that completely flip over this project. These pictures are now aviable from a download link at the bottom of this post, made by other Missing Links axis forum user. Getting references for this project was more difficult that I thought at first. There are many pictures in the Internet, but too scattered, so I draw my own sketchs. Don't know whether they are visible...

[/img]

The building starts by removing the pouring blocks from the kit's parts, but it is a very delicate task when dealing with the rear mudflaps beacuse the resin there is very thin and brittle, apart of the poor casting. In order to avoid more damage I applied a rather thick coat of Squadron green putty inside the mudflaps and then I cut the casing blocks with a sharp knife (not a razor saw!). Finaly I cleaned the putty from inside the mudflap with industrial thinner.
[/img]

Other pieces were filled with putty beacuse of there were air bubbles, for instance the lhs mudflaps (curiously rhs ones were better casted) and the chassis beams althought it was perfectly straight.

[/img]

There were some big gaps between the hull pan and the rear armour plates, and the same is true for the side doors, so I used styrene strips to fill them.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Apart from a serious detailling work, the rest of the building seemed to be easier...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

... until I got the picts that Chris sent to me. The interior in the Jordi Rubio's kit (and the Brono's one) seems to be inpired in the prototype's one, completely bare. Serie vehicles were full of lockers, ammo case racks, straps holding personal gear, tools, the dashboard is different (it resembles that of the civil version Standard 6), the foot pedals layout is also different, there are many personal items like personal weapons, gas mask bags, smoke candles, tool bags...Futhermore, the MG pedestal and gun mounting is almost the same that the SdKfZ 221 one but without the turret supporting arms. There are many things to be corrected in the chassis and under the floor pan... but no personal strenght left to do that!.

By the way, I had to cut the oil reservoir from the floor pan with the front and rear panels already glued. Carefully, with a sharp and long surgical knife and flexible fingers I got it without much damage apart form the anti-slip texture.

[/img]
[/img]

underneath the floor pan I added a toolbox, a battery box with metal straps and a reinforcing plate under the pedestal attachment point.

[/img]

Then I rebuilt all the armoured car interior, the pedestal and gun mount and the equipment packed inside, from the signal flags to the MG ammo boxes. The MG15 is feed by 15-shots magazines which were stored in boxes of 8 items. I made a box from scratch and copied it with a RTV silicon mould. The personal weapon was an MP28 SMG. I didn't have one left and felt the MP38 was very un-original, so I put a Dragon's ZK383 that fires the same ammo than the former and is very simmilar to the MP 28 as far lenght, weight and look is concerned. What is more, the wooden buttstock would look beautylful in that dark corner of the driver's compartment.

Some picts of the interior.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

MG15 ammo boxes.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Crew gear.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

The new pedestal and gun mounting.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And the new MG15. It is made from a Verlinden MG34 (longer the MG34s enclosed in the kit), a Dragon MG34s pistol grip and trigger and styrene parts.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And after some blood, sweat and tears I detailed the exterior of the car, which happened to seem far easier than the interior!. I used some photo-etched parts from Aber (clamps and claps and german tool holders) and Eduard spares. The parking masts came from RB Models, thinner than the kit's ones. The headlight blackout covers were reworked with epoxy putty. The pendant holder is a photo-etched part from Part.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And some pictures of the final building.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And now the grimmy painting stage. The main aim was get a bright finish from an a priori dark vehicle because of its tinny size and dark camouflage colors. Other times I tried it I got "black holes" with little or no defined camouflage colors, scratches and paint chips. Furthermore, it is a special case because the actual colors of the german army vehicles in the early years of the war were so low contrasted the led the modelers to the wrong convition of there was only one color, the dark grey. So I thought I must use brighter colors in my model.

I also wanted to exercise dusting in models becaused I usually don't get the finishes I want to reach. Now, with a dark-colored vehicle it must be easier...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

After stripping the models, washing it and primming it with that smelling Tamiya spray can (well, I now wear a gas mask whe spraying or airbrushing!) I painted the license plates with Tamiya XF -1 and de white crosses with off-white XF-2 + XF-60.

[/img]

Later I masked the license plates and the crosses and aplied a bright dark gray overall mixing XF-63 + XF-66. After some highlights I airbrushed the red brown stripes with XF-64 + XF-3.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Other problem with this kit was the un-provided decals. I thing it's a serious one beacuse german vehicles had a colourful and intricate set of divisional and tactical markings. I printed my own decals for the 30th Inf.Div. on Expert's Choice white decal film for ink printers and then sealed it with Micro Decal Film. The license plates came from the Italeri's Blitz, so does the tactical marking (very modified). The tire pressure markings came from the Tamiya Kübel.

[/img]

Before the definitive printing I made some test on regular office foil to set the size, resolution and saturacion of the color by double-printing. I set the decals between to coats of gloss varnish with the "help" of Micro Set and Micro Sol products and I say "help" because an excess of Micro Set can destroy this temperamental white decals. Test it on a piece of styrene before going to the model kit.

About the gloss coat, some advice: very thin layer and better applied with and airbrush. More about it later.

Some pict of the Adler with its new decals, scratches, paint chips an some gear already painted before filters.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

I applied a very, very thin filter with brown XF-10 + XF-1 thinned with Humbrol thinner (less agressive than Tamiya's), then many washes with Humbrol enamels Matt 98 and Matt 29, 502 Abteilung oils, rust strains with the same oils (they are perfect!, two steps: first the dark rust oil and then the light rust brown one), pin-washes arround crevis and details with XF-1 and Tamiya's thinner (I like its density for this work), a slight dry-brushing and worn-out metal by rubbing the edges with a 2B pencil.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Other elements. I don't say anything about canvas, tarps and clothes painting because surely you can made a better work than me.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

The MG15.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

In these picts I hadn't applied the flat coat yet. I usually apply Marabu spray flat coat which is a little satin and darken the surface a bit (only a little, nothing to be scared of), but it is a very good product. Anyway I ran out my reserves and had to switch to the Tamiya's one, the TS-80 spray can. Testing it before on a spare sheet I got a flat finish but it reacted with the gloss coat I applied under and on the decals, making it softer (fingerprints sensitive!) and the color turned a little white. But anly a little, only visible if the gloss coat is thick. That's why I said before you should aplly the gloss coat over the decals with an airbrush in thin layers. When it cured, the Tamiya varnish is strong enough to withstand harsh manipulation.

Finaly the dusting stage. I started by apllying a thin layer of XF-57 + XF-64 + XF-63 as a base. In the floor of the interior I applied it with a brush, mostly in the recesses and in an irregular way. Some pencil rubbing over the anti-slip texture and some oil splits made the desired look.
And the last step, pigments. Nothing exoteric, two coats: the first one was a mix of P028 + P027 + P030 + P232 and the last one with P028 only, again in a irregular pattern, fixing them with Humbrol thinner whe necessary.

Some Pict of the half-finished chassis with the dust and oil spilts made with Humbrol gloss black and salad oil.

[/img]
[/img]

And the model finished.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And that's all, folks. If you have read until this point, congratulation, reader.

References about the Adler:

- "German armoured cars and reconaisance half tracks 1939 - 1945". Osprey New Vanguard n29
- "Samochody Pancerne 4x4" Wydawnictwo Militaria n28
- User's manual pictures sent by Mr. Chris Lloyd-Staples, now aviable from http://home.wxs.nl/~ereits/kfz13.pdf
- Many picts from the Internet.

References about the Polish campaign and the vehicles involved:

- "Poland 1939: The birth of the Blitzkrieg". Osprey Campaign n107.
- "Fall Weiss 1939" Wydawnictwo Militaria n66
- "Polska 1939" Wydawnictwo Militaria n277
- "Blitzkrieg: armor cmouflge and markings 1939 - 1940". Arms and Armour Press.
- "Wehrmacht Divisional Signs 1938 - 1945". Altmark Publications.
- "September Storm: the german invasion of Poland". Concord Publications n6510.
- "Panzer Division 1935-1945 1: The early years". Concord Publications n7033.
- "Panzer vor!. German armor at war 1939 - 1945". Concord Publications n7053.
- "German Leichte Panzer at war". Concord Publications n7066.

References about the camouflages patterns and colors.

- "PzKWg 1". Panzer Tracts 1-2, Jentz y Doyle.
- "Panzer facts n4". Jentz y Doyle.
- "Panzer Colors 2". Squadron Signal 6252.

If you have any question or critics, fell free to ask.

Thank you for looking!.

Best regards!.
This is art at its best, Congrats!

- John
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: January 17th, 2008, 10:49 am

April 30th, 2010, 6:34 am #5

Previous warning: looooong and boring post, but making it that way I hope it would be useful for those who are dealing with this armoured car.

Hello everyone!.

This is my last victim: an Adler KfZ 13 scout car belonging to the PanzerSpähSchwadron of the 30th Aufklärungs Abteilung of the 30th Infanterie Division (Briesen), Ulex's X army corp, Blaskowitz's 8th Army, Rudent's army group south, in the outskirts of Zgierz, near the Bzura river during the Polish counter-offensive that took part the 8 of september, 1939.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

It's a resin kit from Jordi Rubio. Sincerely I expected that the casting quality was, uh, better. The read mudguards were poorly casted, removing the pouring blocks wasn't an easy task.The details in the dashboard weren't well defined. Tubular parts were lightly bent... but it is normal in a resin kit. I think the rest of the kit is a bir simplified. I missed some parts such the turning lights (or however they are called), the rhs tool box, the shovel, the backmirror, the parking brake, other weapon choices such the MG 15, decals...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Before going on I'd like to thank Mr.Chris Lloyd-Staples from MAFVA, who kindly sent me a set of Adler user's manual pictures that completely flip over this project. These pictures are now aviable from a download link at the bottom of this post, made by other Missing Links axis forum user. Getting references for this project was more difficult that I thought at first. There are many pictures in the Internet, but too scattered, so I draw my own sketchs. Don't know whether they are visible...

[/img]

The building starts by removing the pouring blocks from the kit's parts, but it is a very delicate task when dealing with the rear mudflaps beacuse the resin there is very thin and brittle, apart of the poor casting. In order to avoid more damage I applied a rather thick coat of Squadron green putty inside the mudflaps and then I cut the casing blocks with a sharp knife (not a razor saw!). Finaly I cleaned the putty from inside the mudflap with industrial thinner.
[/img]

Other pieces were filled with putty beacuse of there were air bubbles, for instance the lhs mudflaps (curiously rhs ones were better casted) and the chassis beams althought it was perfectly straight.

[/img]

There were some big gaps between the hull pan and the rear armour plates, and the same is true for the side doors, so I used styrene strips to fill them.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Apart from a serious detailling work, the rest of the building seemed to be easier...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

... until I got the picts that Chris sent to me. The interior in the Jordi Rubio's kit (and the Brono's one) seems to be inpired in the prototype's one, completely bare. Serie vehicles were full of lockers, ammo case racks, straps holding personal gear, tools, the dashboard is different (it resembles that of the civil version Standard 6), the foot pedals layout is also different, there are many personal items like personal weapons, gas mask bags, smoke candles, tool bags...Futhermore, the MG pedestal and gun mounting is almost the same that the SdKfZ 221 one but without the turret supporting arms. There are many things to be corrected in the chassis and under the floor pan... but no personal strenght left to do that!.

By the way, I had to cut the oil reservoir from the floor pan with the front and rear panels already glued. Carefully, with a sharp and long surgical knife and flexible fingers I got it without much damage apart form the anti-slip texture.

[/img]
[/img]

underneath the floor pan I added a toolbox, a battery box with metal straps and a reinforcing plate under the pedestal attachment point.

[/img]

Then I rebuilt all the armoured car interior, the pedestal and gun mount and the equipment packed inside, from the signal flags to the MG ammo boxes. The MG15 is feed by 15-shots magazines which were stored in boxes of 8 items. I made a box from scratch and copied it with a RTV silicon mould. The personal weapon was an MP28 SMG. I didn't have one left and felt the MP38 was very un-original, so I put a Dragon's ZK383 that fires the same ammo than the former and is very simmilar to the MP 28 as far lenght, weight and look is concerned. What is more, the wooden buttstock would look beautylful in that dark corner of the driver's compartment.

Some picts of the interior.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

MG15 ammo boxes.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Crew gear.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

The new pedestal and gun mounting.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And the new MG15. It is made from a Verlinden MG34 (longer the MG34s enclosed in the kit), a Dragon MG34s pistol grip and trigger and styrene parts.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And after some blood, sweat and tears I detailed the exterior of the car, which happened to seem far easier than the interior!. I used some photo-etched parts from Aber (clamps and claps and german tool holders) and Eduard spares. The parking masts came from RB Models, thinner than the kit's ones. The headlight blackout covers were reworked with epoxy putty. The pendant holder is a photo-etched part from Part.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And some pictures of the final building.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And now the grimmy painting stage. The main aim was get a bright finish from an a priori dark vehicle because of its tinny size and dark camouflage colors. Other times I tried it I got "black holes" with little or no defined camouflage colors, scratches and paint chips. Furthermore, it is a special case because the actual colors of the german army vehicles in the early years of the war were so low contrasted the led the modelers to the wrong convition of there was only one color, the dark grey. So I thought I must use brighter colors in my model.

I also wanted to exercise dusting in models becaused I usually don't get the finishes I want to reach. Now, with a dark-colored vehicle it must be easier...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

After stripping the models, washing it and primming it with that smelling Tamiya spray can (well, I now wear a gas mask whe spraying or airbrushing!) I painted the license plates with Tamiya XF -1 and de white crosses with off-white XF-2 + XF-60.

[/img]

Later I masked the license plates and the crosses and aplied a bright dark gray overall mixing XF-63 + XF-66. After some highlights I airbrushed the red brown stripes with XF-64 + XF-3.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Other problem with this kit was the un-provided decals. I thing it's a serious one beacuse german vehicles had a colourful and intricate set of divisional and tactical markings. I printed my own decals for the 30th Inf.Div. on Expert's Choice white decal film for ink printers and then sealed it with Micro Decal Film. The license plates came from the Italeri's Blitz, so does the tactical marking (very modified). The tire pressure markings came from the Tamiya Kübel.

[/img]

Before the definitive printing I made some test on regular office foil to set the size, resolution and saturacion of the color by double-printing. I set the decals between to coats of gloss varnish with the "help" of Micro Set and Micro Sol products and I say "help" because an excess of Micro Set can destroy this temperamental white decals. Test it on a piece of styrene before going to the model kit.

About the gloss coat, some advice: very thin layer and better applied with and airbrush. More about it later.

Some pict of the Adler with its new decals, scratches, paint chips an some gear already painted before filters.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

I applied a very, very thin filter with brown XF-10 + XF-1 thinned with Humbrol thinner (less agressive than Tamiya's), then many washes with Humbrol enamels Matt 98 and Matt 29, 502 Abteilung oils, rust strains with the same oils (they are perfect!, two steps: first the dark rust oil and then the light rust brown one), pin-washes arround crevis and details with XF-1 and Tamiya's thinner (I like its density for this work), a slight dry-brushing and worn-out metal by rubbing the edges with a 2B pencil.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Other elements. I don't say anything about canvas, tarps and clothes painting because surely you can made a better work than me.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

The MG15.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

In these picts I hadn't applied the flat coat yet. I usually apply Marabu spray flat coat which is a little satin and darken the surface a bit (only a little, nothing to be scared of), but it is a very good product. Anyway I ran out my reserves and had to switch to the Tamiya's one, the TS-80 spray can. Testing it before on a spare sheet I got a flat finish but it reacted with the gloss coat I applied under and on the decals, making it softer (fingerprints sensitive!) and the color turned a little white. But anly a little, only visible if the gloss coat is thick. That's why I said before you should aplly the gloss coat over the decals with an airbrush in thin layers. When it cured, the Tamiya varnish is strong enough to withstand harsh manipulation.

Finaly the dusting stage. I started by apllying a thin layer of XF-57 + XF-64 + XF-63 as a base. In the floor of the interior I applied it with a brush, mostly in the recesses and in an irregular way. Some pencil rubbing over the anti-slip texture and some oil splits made the desired look.
And the last step, pigments. Nothing exoteric, two coats: the first one was a mix of P028 + P027 + P030 + P232 and the last one with P028 only, again in a irregular pattern, fixing them with Humbrol thinner whe necessary.

Some Pict of the half-finished chassis with the dust and oil spilts made with Humbrol gloss black and salad oil.

[/img]
[/img]

And the model finished.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And that's all, folks. If you have read until this point, congratulation, reader.

References about the Adler:

- "German armoured cars and reconaisance half tracks 1939 - 1945". Osprey New Vanguard n29
- "Samochody Pancerne 4x4" Wydawnictwo Militaria n28
- User's manual pictures sent by Mr. Chris Lloyd-Staples, now aviable from http://home.wxs.nl/~ereits/kfz13.pdf
- Many picts from the Internet.

References about the Polish campaign and the vehicles involved:

- "Poland 1939: The birth of the Blitzkrieg". Osprey Campaign n107.
- "Fall Weiss 1939" Wydawnictwo Militaria n66
- "Polska 1939" Wydawnictwo Militaria n277
- "Blitzkrieg: armor cmouflge and markings 1939 - 1940". Arms and Armour Press.
- "Wehrmacht Divisional Signs 1938 - 1945". Altmark Publications.
- "September Storm: the german invasion of Poland". Concord Publications n6510.
- "Panzer Division 1935-1945 1: The early years". Concord Publications n7033.
- "Panzer vor!. German armor at war 1939 - 1945". Concord Publications n7053.
- "German Leichte Panzer at war". Concord Publications n7066.

References about the camouflages patterns and colors.

- "PzKWg 1". Panzer Tracts 1-2, Jentz y Doyle.
- "Panzer facts n4". Jentz y Doyle.
- "Panzer Colors 2". Squadron Signal 6252.

If you have any question or critics, fell free to ask.

Thank you for looking!.

Best regards!.
I dont say that very often, but this is great work.
I know, and can appreciate the effort you have put into this build.
I love this kinda detailing.
Once again- superb stuff- congratulations.

Best
Apoloniusz "Siara" Musialek

http://mastermodels.blogspot.com/



Quote
Like
Share

Joined: March 11th, 2006, 1:27 pm

April 30th, 2010, 7:26 am #6

Previous warning: looooong and boring post, but making it that way I hope it would be useful for those who are dealing with this armoured car.

Hello everyone!.

This is my last victim: an Adler KfZ 13 scout car belonging to the PanzerSpähSchwadron of the 30th Aufklärungs Abteilung of the 30th Infanterie Division (Briesen), Ulex's X army corp, Blaskowitz's 8th Army, Rudent's army group south, in the outskirts of Zgierz, near the Bzura river during the Polish counter-offensive that took part the 8 of september, 1939.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

It's a resin kit from Jordi Rubio. Sincerely I expected that the casting quality was, uh, better. The read mudguards were poorly casted, removing the pouring blocks wasn't an easy task.The details in the dashboard weren't well defined. Tubular parts were lightly bent... but it is normal in a resin kit. I think the rest of the kit is a bir simplified. I missed some parts such the turning lights (or however they are called), the rhs tool box, the shovel, the backmirror, the parking brake, other weapon choices such the MG 15, decals...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Before going on I'd like to thank Mr.Chris Lloyd-Staples from MAFVA, who kindly sent me a set of Adler user's manual pictures that completely flip over this project. These pictures are now aviable from a download link at the bottom of this post, made by other Missing Links axis forum user. Getting references for this project was more difficult that I thought at first. There are many pictures in the Internet, but too scattered, so I draw my own sketchs. Don't know whether they are visible...

[/img]

The building starts by removing the pouring blocks from the kit's parts, but it is a very delicate task when dealing with the rear mudflaps beacuse the resin there is very thin and brittle, apart of the poor casting. In order to avoid more damage I applied a rather thick coat of Squadron green putty inside the mudflaps and then I cut the casing blocks with a sharp knife (not a razor saw!). Finaly I cleaned the putty from inside the mudflap with industrial thinner.
[/img]

Other pieces were filled with putty beacuse of there were air bubbles, for instance the lhs mudflaps (curiously rhs ones were better casted) and the chassis beams althought it was perfectly straight.

[/img]

There were some big gaps between the hull pan and the rear armour plates, and the same is true for the side doors, so I used styrene strips to fill them.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Apart from a serious detailling work, the rest of the building seemed to be easier...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

... until I got the picts that Chris sent to me. The interior in the Jordi Rubio's kit (and the Brono's one) seems to be inpired in the prototype's one, completely bare. Serie vehicles were full of lockers, ammo case racks, straps holding personal gear, tools, the dashboard is different (it resembles that of the civil version Standard 6), the foot pedals layout is also different, there are many personal items like personal weapons, gas mask bags, smoke candles, tool bags...Futhermore, the MG pedestal and gun mounting is almost the same that the SdKfZ 221 one but without the turret supporting arms. There are many things to be corrected in the chassis and under the floor pan... but no personal strenght left to do that!.

By the way, I had to cut the oil reservoir from the floor pan with the front and rear panels already glued. Carefully, with a sharp and long surgical knife and flexible fingers I got it without much damage apart form the anti-slip texture.

[/img]
[/img]

underneath the floor pan I added a toolbox, a battery box with metal straps and a reinforcing plate under the pedestal attachment point.

[/img]

Then I rebuilt all the armoured car interior, the pedestal and gun mount and the equipment packed inside, from the signal flags to the MG ammo boxes. The MG15 is feed by 15-shots magazines which were stored in boxes of 8 items. I made a box from scratch and copied it with a RTV silicon mould. The personal weapon was an MP28 SMG. I didn't have one left and felt the MP38 was very un-original, so I put a Dragon's ZK383 that fires the same ammo than the former and is very simmilar to the MP 28 as far lenght, weight and look is concerned. What is more, the wooden buttstock would look beautylful in that dark corner of the driver's compartment.

Some picts of the interior.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

MG15 ammo boxes.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Crew gear.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

The new pedestal and gun mounting.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And the new MG15. It is made from a Verlinden MG34 (longer the MG34s enclosed in the kit), a Dragon MG34s pistol grip and trigger and styrene parts.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And after some blood, sweat and tears I detailed the exterior of the car, which happened to seem far easier than the interior!. I used some photo-etched parts from Aber (clamps and claps and german tool holders) and Eduard spares. The parking masts came from RB Models, thinner than the kit's ones. The headlight blackout covers were reworked with epoxy putty. The pendant holder is a photo-etched part from Part.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And some pictures of the final building.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And now the grimmy painting stage. The main aim was get a bright finish from an a priori dark vehicle because of its tinny size and dark camouflage colors. Other times I tried it I got "black holes" with little or no defined camouflage colors, scratches and paint chips. Furthermore, it is a special case because the actual colors of the german army vehicles in the early years of the war were so low contrasted the led the modelers to the wrong convition of there was only one color, the dark grey. So I thought I must use brighter colors in my model.

I also wanted to exercise dusting in models becaused I usually don't get the finishes I want to reach. Now, with a dark-colored vehicle it must be easier...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

After stripping the models, washing it and primming it with that smelling Tamiya spray can (well, I now wear a gas mask whe spraying or airbrushing!) I painted the license plates with Tamiya XF -1 and de white crosses with off-white XF-2 + XF-60.

[/img]

Later I masked the license plates and the crosses and aplied a bright dark gray overall mixing XF-63 + XF-66. After some highlights I airbrushed the red brown stripes with XF-64 + XF-3.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Other problem with this kit was the un-provided decals. I thing it's a serious one beacuse german vehicles had a colourful and intricate set of divisional and tactical markings. I printed my own decals for the 30th Inf.Div. on Expert's Choice white decal film for ink printers and then sealed it with Micro Decal Film. The license plates came from the Italeri's Blitz, so does the tactical marking (very modified). The tire pressure markings came from the Tamiya Kübel.

[/img]

Before the definitive printing I made some test on regular office foil to set the size, resolution and saturacion of the color by double-printing. I set the decals between to coats of gloss varnish with the "help" of Micro Set and Micro Sol products and I say "help" because an excess of Micro Set can destroy this temperamental white decals. Test it on a piece of styrene before going to the model kit.

About the gloss coat, some advice: very thin layer and better applied with and airbrush. More about it later.

Some pict of the Adler with its new decals, scratches, paint chips an some gear already painted before filters.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

I applied a very, very thin filter with brown XF-10 + XF-1 thinned with Humbrol thinner (less agressive than Tamiya's), then many washes with Humbrol enamels Matt 98 and Matt 29, 502 Abteilung oils, rust strains with the same oils (they are perfect!, two steps: first the dark rust oil and then the light rust brown one), pin-washes arround crevis and details with XF-1 and Tamiya's thinner (I like its density for this work), a slight dry-brushing and worn-out metal by rubbing the edges with a 2B pencil.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Other elements. I don't say anything about canvas, tarps and clothes painting because surely you can made a better work than me.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

The MG15.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

In these picts I hadn't applied the flat coat yet. I usually apply Marabu spray flat coat which is a little satin and darken the surface a bit (only a little, nothing to be scared of), but it is a very good product. Anyway I ran out my reserves and had to switch to the Tamiya's one, the TS-80 spray can. Testing it before on a spare sheet I got a flat finish but it reacted with the gloss coat I applied under and on the decals, making it softer (fingerprints sensitive!) and the color turned a little white. But anly a little, only visible if the gloss coat is thick. That's why I said before you should aplly the gloss coat over the decals with an airbrush in thin layers. When it cured, the Tamiya varnish is strong enough to withstand harsh manipulation.

Finaly the dusting stage. I started by apllying a thin layer of XF-57 + XF-64 + XF-63 as a base. In the floor of the interior I applied it with a brush, mostly in the recesses and in an irregular way. Some pencil rubbing over the anti-slip texture and some oil splits made the desired look.
And the last step, pigments. Nothing exoteric, two coats: the first one was a mix of P028 + P027 + P030 + P232 and the last one with P028 only, again in a irregular pattern, fixing them with Humbrol thinner whe necessary.

Some Pict of the half-finished chassis with the dust and oil spilts made with Humbrol gloss black and salad oil.

[/img]
[/img]

And the model finished.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And that's all, folks. If you have read until this point, congratulation, reader.

References about the Adler:

- "German armoured cars and reconaisance half tracks 1939 - 1945". Osprey New Vanguard n29
- "Samochody Pancerne 4x4" Wydawnictwo Militaria n28
- User's manual pictures sent by Mr. Chris Lloyd-Staples, now aviable from http://home.wxs.nl/~ereits/kfz13.pdf
- Many picts from the Internet.

References about the Polish campaign and the vehicles involved:

- "Poland 1939: The birth of the Blitzkrieg". Osprey Campaign n107.
- "Fall Weiss 1939" Wydawnictwo Militaria n66
- "Polska 1939" Wydawnictwo Militaria n277
- "Blitzkrieg: armor cmouflge and markings 1939 - 1940". Arms and Armour Press.
- "Wehrmacht Divisional Signs 1938 - 1945". Altmark Publications.
- "September Storm: the german invasion of Poland". Concord Publications n6510.
- "Panzer Division 1935-1945 1: The early years". Concord Publications n7033.
- "Panzer vor!. German armor at war 1939 - 1945". Concord Publications n7053.
- "German Leichte Panzer at war". Concord Publications n7066.

References about the camouflages patterns and colors.

- "PzKWg 1". Panzer Tracts 1-2, Jentz y Doyle.
- "Panzer facts n4". Jentz y Doyle.
- "Panzer Colors 2". Squadron Signal 6252.

If you have any question or critics, fell free to ask.

Thank you for looking!.

Best regards!.
job, it's impressive to see that detail level.

Cheers
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: January 1st, 2010, 2:40 pm

April 30th, 2010, 3:24 pm #7

Previous warning: looooong and boring post, but making it that way I hope it would be useful for those who are dealing with this armoured car.

Hello everyone!.

This is my last victim: an Adler KfZ 13 scout car belonging to the PanzerSpähSchwadron of the 30th Aufklärungs Abteilung of the 30th Infanterie Division (Briesen), Ulex's X army corp, Blaskowitz's 8th Army, Rudent's army group south, in the outskirts of Zgierz, near the Bzura river during the Polish counter-offensive that took part the 8 of september, 1939.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

It's a resin kit from Jordi Rubio. Sincerely I expected that the casting quality was, uh, better. The read mudguards were poorly casted, removing the pouring blocks wasn't an easy task.The details in the dashboard weren't well defined. Tubular parts were lightly bent... but it is normal in a resin kit. I think the rest of the kit is a bir simplified. I missed some parts such the turning lights (or however they are called), the rhs tool box, the shovel, the backmirror, the parking brake, other weapon choices such the MG 15, decals...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Before going on I'd like to thank Mr.Chris Lloyd-Staples from MAFVA, who kindly sent me a set of Adler user's manual pictures that completely flip over this project. These pictures are now aviable from a download link at the bottom of this post, made by other Missing Links axis forum user. Getting references for this project was more difficult that I thought at first. There are many pictures in the Internet, but too scattered, so I draw my own sketchs. Don't know whether they are visible...

[/img]

The building starts by removing the pouring blocks from the kit's parts, but it is a very delicate task when dealing with the rear mudflaps beacuse the resin there is very thin and brittle, apart of the poor casting. In order to avoid more damage I applied a rather thick coat of Squadron green putty inside the mudflaps and then I cut the casing blocks with a sharp knife (not a razor saw!). Finaly I cleaned the putty from inside the mudflap with industrial thinner.
[/img]

Other pieces were filled with putty beacuse of there were air bubbles, for instance the lhs mudflaps (curiously rhs ones were better casted) and the chassis beams althought it was perfectly straight.

[/img]

There were some big gaps between the hull pan and the rear armour plates, and the same is true for the side doors, so I used styrene strips to fill them.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Apart from a serious detailling work, the rest of the building seemed to be easier...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

... until I got the picts that Chris sent to me. The interior in the Jordi Rubio's kit (and the Brono's one) seems to be inpired in the prototype's one, completely bare. Serie vehicles were full of lockers, ammo case racks, straps holding personal gear, tools, the dashboard is different (it resembles that of the civil version Standard 6), the foot pedals layout is also different, there are many personal items like personal weapons, gas mask bags, smoke candles, tool bags...Futhermore, the MG pedestal and gun mounting is almost the same that the SdKfZ 221 one but without the turret supporting arms. There are many things to be corrected in the chassis and under the floor pan... but no personal strenght left to do that!.

By the way, I had to cut the oil reservoir from the floor pan with the front and rear panels already glued. Carefully, with a sharp and long surgical knife and flexible fingers I got it without much damage apart form the anti-slip texture.

[/img]
[/img]

underneath the floor pan I added a toolbox, a battery box with metal straps and a reinforcing plate under the pedestal attachment point.

[/img]

Then I rebuilt all the armoured car interior, the pedestal and gun mount and the equipment packed inside, from the signal flags to the MG ammo boxes. The MG15 is feed by 15-shots magazines which were stored in boxes of 8 items. I made a box from scratch and copied it with a RTV silicon mould. The personal weapon was an MP28 SMG. I didn't have one left and felt the MP38 was very un-original, so I put a Dragon's ZK383 that fires the same ammo than the former and is very simmilar to the MP 28 as far lenght, weight and look is concerned. What is more, the wooden buttstock would look beautylful in that dark corner of the driver's compartment.

Some picts of the interior.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

MG15 ammo boxes.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Crew gear.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

The new pedestal and gun mounting.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And the new MG15. It is made from a Verlinden MG34 (longer the MG34s enclosed in the kit), a Dragon MG34s pistol grip and trigger and styrene parts.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And after some blood, sweat and tears I detailed the exterior of the car, which happened to seem far easier than the interior!. I used some photo-etched parts from Aber (clamps and claps and german tool holders) and Eduard spares. The parking masts came from RB Models, thinner than the kit's ones. The headlight blackout covers were reworked with epoxy putty. The pendant holder is a photo-etched part from Part.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And some pictures of the final building.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And now the grimmy painting stage. The main aim was get a bright finish from an a priori dark vehicle because of its tinny size and dark camouflage colors. Other times I tried it I got "black holes" with little or no defined camouflage colors, scratches and paint chips. Furthermore, it is a special case because the actual colors of the german army vehicles in the early years of the war were so low contrasted the led the modelers to the wrong convition of there was only one color, the dark grey. So I thought I must use brighter colors in my model.

I also wanted to exercise dusting in models becaused I usually don't get the finishes I want to reach. Now, with a dark-colored vehicle it must be easier...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

After stripping the models, washing it and primming it with that smelling Tamiya spray can (well, I now wear a gas mask whe spraying or airbrushing!) I painted the license plates with Tamiya XF -1 and de white crosses with off-white XF-2 + XF-60.

[/img]

Later I masked the license plates and the crosses and aplied a bright dark gray overall mixing XF-63 + XF-66. After some highlights I airbrushed the red brown stripes with XF-64 + XF-3.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Other problem with this kit was the un-provided decals. I thing it's a serious one beacuse german vehicles had a colourful and intricate set of divisional and tactical markings. I printed my own decals for the 30th Inf.Div. on Expert's Choice white decal film for ink printers and then sealed it with Micro Decal Film. The license plates came from the Italeri's Blitz, so does the tactical marking (very modified). The tire pressure markings came from the Tamiya Kübel.

[/img]

Before the definitive printing I made some test on regular office foil to set the size, resolution and saturacion of the color by double-printing. I set the decals between to coats of gloss varnish with the "help" of Micro Set and Micro Sol products and I say "help" because an excess of Micro Set can destroy this temperamental white decals. Test it on a piece of styrene before going to the model kit.

About the gloss coat, some advice: very thin layer and better applied with and airbrush. More about it later.

Some pict of the Adler with its new decals, scratches, paint chips an some gear already painted before filters.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

I applied a very, very thin filter with brown XF-10 + XF-1 thinned with Humbrol thinner (less agressive than Tamiya's), then many washes with Humbrol enamels Matt 98 and Matt 29, 502 Abteilung oils, rust strains with the same oils (they are perfect!, two steps: first the dark rust oil and then the light rust brown one), pin-washes arround crevis and details with XF-1 and Tamiya's thinner (I like its density for this work), a slight dry-brushing and worn-out metal by rubbing the edges with a 2B pencil.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Other elements. I don't say anything about canvas, tarps and clothes painting because surely you can made a better work than me.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

The MG15.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

In these picts I hadn't applied the flat coat yet. I usually apply Marabu spray flat coat which is a little satin and darken the surface a bit (only a little, nothing to be scared of), but it is a very good product. Anyway I ran out my reserves and had to switch to the Tamiya's one, the TS-80 spray can. Testing it before on a spare sheet I got a flat finish but it reacted with the gloss coat I applied under and on the decals, making it softer (fingerprints sensitive!) and the color turned a little white. But anly a little, only visible if the gloss coat is thick. That's why I said before you should aplly the gloss coat over the decals with an airbrush in thin layers. When it cured, the Tamiya varnish is strong enough to withstand harsh manipulation.

Finaly the dusting stage. I started by apllying a thin layer of XF-57 + XF-64 + XF-63 as a base. In the floor of the interior I applied it with a brush, mostly in the recesses and in an irregular way. Some pencil rubbing over the anti-slip texture and some oil splits made the desired look.
And the last step, pigments. Nothing exoteric, two coats: the first one was a mix of P028 + P027 + P030 + P232 and the last one with P028 only, again in a irregular pattern, fixing them with Humbrol thinner whe necessary.

Some Pict of the half-finished chassis with the dust and oil spilts made with Humbrol gloss black and salad oil.

[/img]
[/img]

And the model finished.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And that's all, folks. If you have read until this point, congratulation, reader.

References about the Adler:

- "German armoured cars and reconaisance half tracks 1939 - 1945". Osprey New Vanguard n29
- "Samochody Pancerne 4x4" Wydawnictwo Militaria n28
- User's manual pictures sent by Mr. Chris Lloyd-Staples, now aviable from http://home.wxs.nl/~ereits/kfz13.pdf
- Many picts from the Internet.

References about the Polish campaign and the vehicles involved:

- "Poland 1939: The birth of the Blitzkrieg". Osprey Campaign n107.
- "Fall Weiss 1939" Wydawnictwo Militaria n66
- "Polska 1939" Wydawnictwo Militaria n277
- "Blitzkrieg: armor cmouflge and markings 1939 - 1940". Arms and Armour Press.
- "Wehrmacht Divisional Signs 1938 - 1945". Altmark Publications.
- "September Storm: the german invasion of Poland". Concord Publications n6510.
- "Panzer Division 1935-1945 1: The early years". Concord Publications n7033.
- "Panzer vor!. German armor at war 1939 - 1945". Concord Publications n7053.
- "German Leichte Panzer at war". Concord Publications n7066.

References about the camouflages patterns and colors.

- "PzKWg 1". Panzer Tracts 1-2, Jentz y Doyle.
- "Panzer facts n4". Jentz y Doyle.
- "Panzer Colors 2". Squadron Signal 6252.

If you have any question or critics, fell free to ask.

Thank you for looking!.

Best regards!.
Wow! Really GREAT built! My congretulations!

Regards,
Thomas
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: October 11th, 2004, 8:50 am

April 30th, 2010, 6:25 pm #8

Previous warning: looooong and boring post, but making it that way I hope it would be useful for those who are dealing with this armoured car.

Hello everyone!.

This is my last victim: an Adler KfZ 13 scout car belonging to the PanzerSpähSchwadron of the 30th Aufklärungs Abteilung of the 30th Infanterie Division (Briesen), Ulex's X army corp, Blaskowitz's 8th Army, Rudent's army group south, in the outskirts of Zgierz, near the Bzura river during the Polish counter-offensive that took part the 8 of september, 1939.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

It's a resin kit from Jordi Rubio. Sincerely I expected that the casting quality was, uh, better. The read mudguards were poorly casted, removing the pouring blocks wasn't an easy task.The details in the dashboard weren't well defined. Tubular parts were lightly bent... but it is normal in a resin kit. I think the rest of the kit is a bir simplified. I missed some parts such the turning lights (or however they are called), the rhs tool box, the shovel, the backmirror, the parking brake, other weapon choices such the MG 15, decals...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Before going on I'd like to thank Mr.Chris Lloyd-Staples from MAFVA, who kindly sent me a set of Adler user's manual pictures that completely flip over this project. These pictures are now aviable from a download link at the bottom of this post, made by other Missing Links axis forum user. Getting references for this project was more difficult that I thought at first. There are many pictures in the Internet, but too scattered, so I draw my own sketchs. Don't know whether they are visible...

[/img]

The building starts by removing the pouring blocks from the kit's parts, but it is a very delicate task when dealing with the rear mudflaps beacuse the resin there is very thin and brittle, apart of the poor casting. In order to avoid more damage I applied a rather thick coat of Squadron green putty inside the mudflaps and then I cut the casing blocks with a sharp knife (not a razor saw!). Finaly I cleaned the putty from inside the mudflap with industrial thinner.
[/img]

Other pieces were filled with putty beacuse of there were air bubbles, for instance the lhs mudflaps (curiously rhs ones were better casted) and the chassis beams althought it was perfectly straight.

[/img]

There were some big gaps between the hull pan and the rear armour plates, and the same is true for the side doors, so I used styrene strips to fill them.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Apart from a serious detailling work, the rest of the building seemed to be easier...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

... until I got the picts that Chris sent to me. The interior in the Jordi Rubio's kit (and the Brono's one) seems to be inpired in the prototype's one, completely bare. Serie vehicles were full of lockers, ammo case racks, straps holding personal gear, tools, the dashboard is different (it resembles that of the civil version Standard 6), the foot pedals layout is also different, there are many personal items like personal weapons, gas mask bags, smoke candles, tool bags...Futhermore, the MG pedestal and gun mounting is almost the same that the SdKfZ 221 one but without the turret supporting arms. There are many things to be corrected in the chassis and under the floor pan... but no personal strenght left to do that!.

By the way, I had to cut the oil reservoir from the floor pan with the front and rear panels already glued. Carefully, with a sharp and long surgical knife and flexible fingers I got it without much damage apart form the anti-slip texture.

[/img]
[/img]

underneath the floor pan I added a toolbox, a battery box with metal straps and a reinforcing plate under the pedestal attachment point.

[/img]

Then I rebuilt all the armoured car interior, the pedestal and gun mount and the equipment packed inside, from the signal flags to the MG ammo boxes. The MG15 is feed by 15-shots magazines which were stored in boxes of 8 items. I made a box from scratch and copied it with a RTV silicon mould. The personal weapon was an MP28 SMG. I didn't have one left and felt the MP38 was very un-original, so I put a Dragon's ZK383 that fires the same ammo than the former and is very simmilar to the MP 28 as far lenght, weight and look is concerned. What is more, the wooden buttstock would look beautylful in that dark corner of the driver's compartment.

Some picts of the interior.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

MG15 ammo boxes.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Crew gear.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

The new pedestal and gun mounting.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And the new MG15. It is made from a Verlinden MG34 (longer the MG34s enclosed in the kit), a Dragon MG34s pistol grip and trigger and styrene parts.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And after some blood, sweat and tears I detailed the exterior of the car, which happened to seem far easier than the interior!. I used some photo-etched parts from Aber (clamps and claps and german tool holders) and Eduard spares. The parking masts came from RB Models, thinner than the kit's ones. The headlight blackout covers were reworked with epoxy putty. The pendant holder is a photo-etched part from Part.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And some pictures of the final building.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And now the grimmy painting stage. The main aim was get a bright finish from an a priori dark vehicle because of its tinny size and dark camouflage colors. Other times I tried it I got "black holes" with little or no defined camouflage colors, scratches and paint chips. Furthermore, it is a special case because the actual colors of the german army vehicles in the early years of the war were so low contrasted the led the modelers to the wrong convition of there was only one color, the dark grey. So I thought I must use brighter colors in my model.

I also wanted to exercise dusting in models becaused I usually don't get the finishes I want to reach. Now, with a dark-colored vehicle it must be easier...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

After stripping the models, washing it and primming it with that smelling Tamiya spray can (well, I now wear a gas mask whe spraying or airbrushing!) I painted the license plates with Tamiya XF -1 and de white crosses with off-white XF-2 + XF-60.

[/img]

Later I masked the license plates and the crosses and aplied a bright dark gray overall mixing XF-63 + XF-66. After some highlights I airbrushed the red brown stripes with XF-64 + XF-3.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Other problem with this kit was the un-provided decals. I thing it's a serious one beacuse german vehicles had a colourful and intricate set of divisional and tactical markings. I printed my own decals for the 30th Inf.Div. on Expert's Choice white decal film for ink printers and then sealed it with Micro Decal Film. The license plates came from the Italeri's Blitz, so does the tactical marking (very modified). The tire pressure markings came from the Tamiya Kübel.

[/img]

Before the definitive printing I made some test on regular office foil to set the size, resolution and saturacion of the color by double-printing. I set the decals between to coats of gloss varnish with the "help" of Micro Set and Micro Sol products and I say "help" because an excess of Micro Set can destroy this temperamental white decals. Test it on a piece of styrene before going to the model kit.

About the gloss coat, some advice: very thin layer and better applied with and airbrush. More about it later.

Some pict of the Adler with its new decals, scratches, paint chips an some gear already painted before filters.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

I applied a very, very thin filter with brown XF-10 + XF-1 thinned with Humbrol thinner (less agressive than Tamiya's), then many washes with Humbrol enamels Matt 98 and Matt 29, 502 Abteilung oils, rust strains with the same oils (they are perfect!, two steps: first the dark rust oil and then the light rust brown one), pin-washes arround crevis and details with XF-1 and Tamiya's thinner (I like its density for this work), a slight dry-brushing and worn-out metal by rubbing the edges with a 2B pencil.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Other elements. I don't say anything about canvas, tarps and clothes painting because surely you can made a better work than me.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

The MG15.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

In these picts I hadn't applied the flat coat yet. I usually apply Marabu spray flat coat which is a little satin and darken the surface a bit (only a little, nothing to be scared of), but it is a very good product. Anyway I ran out my reserves and had to switch to the Tamiya's one, the TS-80 spray can. Testing it before on a spare sheet I got a flat finish but it reacted with the gloss coat I applied under and on the decals, making it softer (fingerprints sensitive!) and the color turned a little white. But anly a little, only visible if the gloss coat is thick. That's why I said before you should aplly the gloss coat over the decals with an airbrush in thin layers. When it cured, the Tamiya varnish is strong enough to withstand harsh manipulation.

Finaly the dusting stage. I started by apllying a thin layer of XF-57 + XF-64 + XF-63 as a base. In the floor of the interior I applied it with a brush, mostly in the recesses and in an irregular way. Some pencil rubbing over the anti-slip texture and some oil splits made the desired look.
And the last step, pigments. Nothing exoteric, two coats: the first one was a mix of P028 + P027 + P030 + P232 and the last one with P028 only, again in a irregular pattern, fixing them with Humbrol thinner whe necessary.

Some Pict of the half-finished chassis with the dust and oil spilts made with Humbrol gloss black and salad oil.

[/img]
[/img]

And the model finished.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

And that's all, folks. If you have read until this point, congratulation, reader.

References about the Adler:

- "German armoured cars and reconaisance half tracks 1939 - 1945". Osprey New Vanguard n29
- "Samochody Pancerne 4x4" Wydawnictwo Militaria n28
- User's manual pictures sent by Mr. Chris Lloyd-Staples, now aviable from http://home.wxs.nl/~ereits/kfz13.pdf
- Many picts from the Internet.

References about the Polish campaign and the vehicles involved:

- "Poland 1939: The birth of the Blitzkrieg". Osprey Campaign n107.
- "Fall Weiss 1939" Wydawnictwo Militaria n66
- "Polska 1939" Wydawnictwo Militaria n277
- "Blitzkrieg: armor cmouflge and markings 1939 - 1940". Arms and Armour Press.
- "Wehrmacht Divisional Signs 1938 - 1945". Altmark Publications.
- "September Storm: the german invasion of Poland". Concord Publications n6510.
- "Panzer Division 1935-1945 1: The early years". Concord Publications n7033.
- "Panzer vor!. German armor at war 1939 - 1945". Concord Publications n7053.
- "German Leichte Panzer at war". Concord Publications n7066.

References about the camouflages patterns and colors.

- "PzKWg 1". Panzer Tracts 1-2, Jentz y Doyle.
- "Panzer facts n4". Jentz y Doyle.
- "Panzer Colors 2". Squadron Signal 6252.

If you have any question or critics, fell free to ask.

Thank you for looking!.

Best regards!.
Superb work mate.

Love to see this kind of modelling. You made my day.

Congrats
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: January 12th, 2009, 10:17 am

April 30th, 2010, 8:51 pm #9

Thank you all guys! N/T
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: May 23rd, 2008, 5:35 pm

May 1st, 2010, 8:36 am #10

Previous warning: looooong and boring post, but making it that way I hope it would be useful for those who are dealing with this armoured car.

Hello everyone!.

This is my last victim: an Adler KfZ 13 scout car belonging to the PanzerSpähSchwadron of the 30th Aufklärungs Abteilung of the 30th Infanterie Division (Briesen), Ulex's X army corp, Blaskowitz's 8th Army, Rudent's army group south, in the outskirts of Zgierz, near the Bzura river during the Polish counter-offensive that took part the 8 of september, 1939.

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

It's a resin kit from Jordi Rubio. Sincerely I expected that the casting quality was, uh, better. The read mudguards were poorly casted, removing the pouring blocks wasn't an easy task.The details in the dashboard weren't well defined. Tubular parts were lightly bent... but it is normal in a resin kit. I think the rest of the kit is a bir simplified. I missed some parts such the turning lights (or however they are called), the rhs tool box, the shovel, the backmirror, the parking brake, other weapon choices such the MG 15, decals...

[/img]
[/img]
[/img]
[/img]

Before going on I'd like to thank Mr.Chris Lloyd-Staples from MAFVA, who kindly sent me a set of Adler user's manual pictures that completely flip over this project. These pictures are now aviable from a download link at the bottom of this post, made by other Missing Links axis forum user. Getting references for this project was more difficult that I thought at first. There are many pictures in the Internet, but too scattered, so I draw my own sketchs. Don't know whether they are visible...

[/img]

The building starts by removing the pouring blocks from the kit's parts, but it is a very delicate task when dealing with the rear mudflaps beacuse the resin there is very thin and brittle, apart of the poor casting. In order to avoid more damage I applied a rather thick coat of Squadron green putty inside the mudflaps and then I cut the casing blocks with a sharp knife (not a razor saw!). Finaly I cleaned the putty from inside the mudflap with industrial thinner.
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Other pieces were filled with putty beacuse of there were air bubbles, for instance the lhs mudflaps (curiously rhs ones were better casted) and the chassis beams althought it was perfectly straight.

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There were some big gaps between the hull pan and the rear armour plates, and the same is true for the side doors, so I used styrene strips to fill them.

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Apart from a serious detailling work, the rest of the building seemed to be easier...

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... until I got the picts that Chris sent to me. The interior in the Jordi Rubio's kit (and the Brono's one) seems to be inpired in the prototype's one, completely bare. Serie vehicles were full of lockers, ammo case racks, straps holding personal gear, tools, the dashboard is different (it resembles that of the civil version Standard 6), the foot pedals layout is also different, there are many personal items like personal weapons, gas mask bags, smoke candles, tool bags...Futhermore, the MG pedestal and gun mounting is almost the same that the SdKfZ 221 one but without the turret supporting arms. There are many things to be corrected in the chassis and under the floor pan... but no personal strenght left to do that!.

By the way, I had to cut the oil reservoir from the floor pan with the front and rear panels already glued. Carefully, with a sharp and long surgical knife and flexible fingers I got it without much damage apart form the anti-slip texture.

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underneath the floor pan I added a toolbox, a battery box with metal straps and a reinforcing plate under the pedestal attachment point.

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Then I rebuilt all the armoured car interior, the pedestal and gun mount and the equipment packed inside, from the signal flags to the MG ammo boxes. The MG15 is feed by 15-shots magazines which were stored in boxes of 8 items. I made a box from scratch and copied it with a RTV silicon mould. The personal weapon was an MP28 SMG. I didn't have one left and felt the MP38 was very un-original, so I put a Dragon's ZK383 that fires the same ammo than the former and is very simmilar to the MP 28 as far lenght, weight and look is concerned. What is more, the wooden buttstock would look beautylful in that dark corner of the driver's compartment.

Some picts of the interior.

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MG15 ammo boxes.

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Crew gear.

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The new pedestal and gun mounting.

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And the new MG15. It is made from a Verlinden MG34 (longer the MG34s enclosed in the kit), a Dragon MG34s pistol grip and trigger and styrene parts.

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And after some blood, sweat and tears I detailed the exterior of the car, which happened to seem far easier than the interior!. I used some photo-etched parts from Aber (clamps and claps and german tool holders) and Eduard spares. The parking masts came from RB Models, thinner than the kit's ones. The headlight blackout covers were reworked with epoxy putty. The pendant holder is a photo-etched part from Part.

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And some pictures of the final building.

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And now the grimmy painting stage. The main aim was get a bright finish from an a priori dark vehicle because of its tinny size and dark camouflage colors. Other times I tried it I got "black holes" with little or no defined camouflage colors, scratches and paint chips. Furthermore, it is a special case because the actual colors of the german army vehicles in the early years of the war were so low contrasted the led the modelers to the wrong convition of there was only one color, the dark grey. So I thought I must use brighter colors in my model.

I also wanted to exercise dusting in models becaused I usually don't get the finishes I want to reach. Now, with a dark-colored vehicle it must be easier...

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After stripping the models, washing it and primming it with that smelling Tamiya spray can (well, I now wear a gas mask whe spraying or airbrushing!) I painted the license plates with Tamiya XF -1 and de white crosses with off-white XF-2 + XF-60.

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Later I masked the license plates and the crosses and aplied a bright dark gray overall mixing XF-63 + XF-66. After some highlights I airbrushed the red brown stripes with XF-64 + XF-3.

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Other problem with this kit was the un-provided decals. I thing it's a serious one beacuse german vehicles had a colourful and intricate set of divisional and tactical markings. I printed my own decals for the 30th Inf.Div. on Expert's Choice white decal film for ink printers and then sealed it with Micro Decal Film. The license plates came from the Italeri's Blitz, so does the tactical marking (very modified). The tire pressure markings came from the Tamiya Kübel.

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Before the definitive printing I made some test on regular office foil to set the size, resolution and saturacion of the color by double-printing. I set the decals between to coats of gloss varnish with the "help" of Micro Set and Micro Sol products and I say "help" because an excess of Micro Set can destroy this temperamental white decals. Test it on a piece of styrene before going to the model kit.

About the gloss coat, some advice: very thin layer and better applied with and airbrush. More about it later.

Some pict of the Adler with its new decals, scratches, paint chips an some gear already painted before filters.

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I applied a very, very thin filter with brown XF-10 + XF-1 thinned with Humbrol thinner (less agressive than Tamiya's), then many washes with Humbrol enamels Matt 98 and Matt 29, 502 Abteilung oils, rust strains with the same oils (they are perfect!, two steps: first the dark rust oil and then the light rust brown one), pin-washes arround crevis and details with XF-1 and Tamiya's thinner (I like its density for this work), a slight dry-brushing and worn-out metal by rubbing the edges with a 2B pencil.

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Other elements. I don't say anything about canvas, tarps and clothes painting because surely you can made a better work than me.

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The MG15.

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In these picts I hadn't applied the flat coat yet. I usually apply Marabu spray flat coat which is a little satin and darken the surface a bit (only a little, nothing to be scared of), but it is a very good product. Anyway I ran out my reserves and had to switch to the Tamiya's one, the TS-80 spray can. Testing it before on a spare sheet I got a flat finish but it reacted with the gloss coat I applied under and on the decals, making it softer (fingerprints sensitive!) and the color turned a little white. But anly a little, only visible if the gloss coat is thick. That's why I said before you should aplly the gloss coat over the decals with an airbrush in thin layers. When it cured, the Tamiya varnish is strong enough to withstand harsh manipulation.

Finaly the dusting stage. I started by apllying a thin layer of XF-57 + XF-64 + XF-63 as a base. In the floor of the interior I applied it with a brush, mostly in the recesses and in an irregular way. Some pencil rubbing over the anti-slip texture and some oil splits made the desired look.
And the last step, pigments. Nothing exoteric, two coats: the first one was a mix of P028 + P027 + P030 + P232 and the last one with P028 only, again in a irregular pattern, fixing them with Humbrol thinner whe necessary.

Some Pict of the half-finished chassis with the dust and oil spilts made with Humbrol gloss black and salad oil.

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And the model finished.

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And that's all, folks. If you have read until this point, congratulation, reader.

References about the Adler:

- "German armoured cars and reconaisance half tracks 1939 - 1945". Osprey New Vanguard n29
- "Samochody Pancerne 4x4" Wydawnictwo Militaria n28
- User's manual pictures sent by Mr. Chris Lloyd-Staples, now aviable from http://home.wxs.nl/~ereits/kfz13.pdf
- Many picts from the Internet.

References about the Polish campaign and the vehicles involved:

- "Poland 1939: The birth of the Blitzkrieg". Osprey Campaign n107.
- "Fall Weiss 1939" Wydawnictwo Militaria n66
- "Polska 1939" Wydawnictwo Militaria n277
- "Blitzkrieg: armor cmouflge and markings 1939 - 1940". Arms and Armour Press.
- "Wehrmacht Divisional Signs 1938 - 1945". Altmark Publications.
- "September Storm: the german invasion of Poland". Concord Publications n6510.
- "Panzer Division 1935-1945 1: The early years". Concord Publications n7033.
- "Panzer vor!. German armor at war 1939 - 1945". Concord Publications n7053.
- "German Leichte Panzer at war". Concord Publications n7066.

References about the camouflages patterns and colors.

- "PzKWg 1". Panzer Tracts 1-2, Jentz y Doyle.
- "Panzer facts n4". Jentz y Doyle.
- "Panzer Colors 2". Squadron Signal 6252.

If you have any question or critics, fell free to ask.

Thank you for looking!.

Best regards!.
Hello Fran, this is an unbelieveble work, but is also an excellent tutorial, the build and the pait are wornderful, wish my compliments.
Ciao
Fabio
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