Question regarding Part Photo Etch and Solder.

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Question regarding Part Photo Etch and Solder.

Joined: August 27th, 2003, 5:48 pm

July 28th, 2006, 8:58 pm #1

Can anyone please tell me if the material used by Part can be soldered.
Ok, i admit it, i cannot solder to save my life, but i am trying to solder some 1/72nd scale tracks and have been unable to get the solder to flow on the damn things.
I have been using a 15kw iron and everyday 0.8mm flux cored solder. I heat up the joint to be soldered but when i offer some solder to the joint it repells the solder. By that i mean that the solder "balls up" on the end of the wire.
Is it the Photo etch material or am i doing something wrong?
I suspect i may have to use a higher wattage iron or a lower melting point solder. Can any one p
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Joined: April 27th, 2005, 6:41 pm

July 29th, 2006, 12:34 am #2

I do it myself with Part sets. I think the problem might be the coat Part has given their PE parts. Should make them easier to glue, but more difficult to solder.
Take some fine (waterproof) sandpaper to rough the PE up a little, so you can see the brass underneath. It's best/easiest to do that when the parts are still on their frets.

Hope this helps

Grtz Niels

http://groups.msn.com/dutchmodelbuilding
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Joined: December 7th, 2003, 8:11 pm

July 29th, 2006, 9:59 am #3

Can anyone please tell me if the material used by Part can be soldered.
Ok, i admit it, i cannot solder to save my life, but i am trying to solder some 1/72nd scale tracks and have been unable to get the solder to flow on the damn things.
I have been using a 15kw iron and everyday 0.8mm flux cored solder. I heat up the joint to be soldered but when i offer some solder to the joint it repells the solder. By that i mean that the solder "balls up" on the end of the wire.
Is it the Photo etch material or am i doing something wrong?
I suspect i may have to use a higher wattage iron or a lower melting point solder. Can any one p
Is to soak the pe sheet in lemon juice overnight. This takes of the coating. I red this in an old thread. Carefully clean it up with dish washing detergent afterwards.


best regards,




Marc Brandes
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Joined: December 1st, 2004, 8:15 am

July 29th, 2006, 11:37 pm #4

Can anyone please tell me if the material used by Part can be soldered.
Ok, i admit it, i cannot solder to save my life, but i am trying to solder some 1/72nd scale tracks and have been unable to get the solder to flow on the damn things.
I have been using a 15kw iron and everyday 0.8mm flux cored solder. I heat up the joint to be soldered but when i offer some solder to the joint it repells the solder. By that i mean that the solder "balls up" on the end of the wire.
Is it the Photo etch material or am i doing something wrong?
I suspect i may have to use a higher wattage iron or a lower melting point solder. Can any one p
HiIDave. Sorry I responded another DG,too.
Please try following two points. I am sure you will do well.

Point No,1 Using the liquid flux, and cleaning the oxidation surface of photo etch part.
Point No,2 Using higher wattage iron (For example 40w or 60w. at least 30w over)

If you will understand basics, soldering technique is very simple and easy.
Soldering is not to glue parts by melted solder, but to heat parts and to flow melted solder. Therefore you must clean up the oxidation surface and heat part enough.
When the solder gballs uph, tip of Iron is oxidized. You should clean up tip of iron frequently with rag cloth or the sponge which you soaked with enough water.

In following URL, I explain the basic soldering techniques. (Very sorry, only Japanese captions) I am glad you should be useful.
http://y-a-nabe.blog.ocn.ne.jp/photos/vol3/

Regards,
yasuyuki watanabe
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Joined: August 27th, 2003, 5:48 pm

August 1st, 2006, 8:26 pm #5

I have started to sort things out. I managed to solder the tracks, though it was not the neatest of jobs, the solder stuck and it`s a start.
With regards cleaning off the brass. I remembered reading that electronics hobbyists use Isopropyl alcohol for cleaning stuff. I had some to hand as i use it to thin my Acrylic paints and clean my air brush. So i soaked the fret for an hour or so and it cleaned the coating off it nicely.
I ditched my old 15w soldering iron and bought a cheap, 50w variable heat workstation. However the extra heat did not seem to work.
I started to suspect that the solder was my problem. I had asked in the well known UK electronics specialist shop (Hi De Hi!), for a flux cored solder. So on a hunch i tried a lick of flux paste on the brass and on the end of the solder and it worked wonders, suddenly the flux flowed! A friend who is an heating engineer said he always uses flux in any case.
As i have said it was a little messy because i found the solder difficult to control so next time i will use a smaller diameter solder. I managed to clean it to an acceptable level using de-solder braid.
Thanks everyone for the guidance. I finally feel i am am getting somewhere.
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