Question concerning cutting resin film in...

Hosted by Dave Parker from AFV Modeller magazine and Adam Wilder, this discussion group is geared towards modelling technique questions ranging from construction to final weathering. This forum was created so that "newbies" can post without being intimidated by the sometimes highly technical nature of the other discussion groups.

Question concerning cutting resin film in...

Rod Hayes
Rod Hayes

December 11th, 2004, 7:43 pm #1

...difficult places. How does one go about removing the resin film, for instance, inside the window of this delicate resin steel cab for a GMC 2.5 ton truck? It's designed for the 1/72 scale Heller US GMC 2.5 ton truck. The resin cab is terrific, but it has this fine resin film all over it. I'd be willing to allow some of it left in the cab if I can keep the cab damage free from cutting away all the film. You see, this cab is sharp and is 100% right now. It's 100% now even in an incomplete form, so my major objective is to see it completed with the plastic Heller truck comprising the steel cab that is all over the place in terms of photographs at Europe during the 1940s.
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ian sadler
ian sadler

December 11th, 2004, 7:58 pm #2

Hi Drill a small dia hole near the inside of the corners but not up to the edge , then with a new blade scrib carefuly from hole to hole and that way you will be able to push the film out , then just file up the edges to fit. best of luck cheers ian
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Rod Hayes
Rod Hayes

December 12th, 2004, 2:19 am #3

What type of drill? I have the basic hand powered drill but I don't trust that thing any farther than I can throw it. I've had it slip a few times so I use it sparingly. Anyway, a little more help with this here can help. I'm also wondering about procedures involving the use of photo etch since this will be my first. I have been seeing a lot of talk about the need to wash or soak the PE set but it doesn't seem like such a practice is mandatory. I know I've used the PE on similarly related topics and that didn't play a role in being a negative factor. But when you deal with 1/72 scale material, you're pretty much dependent on PE. I'm figuring that different CA's (super glues medium and slow) will make the difference. Anyone's feedback would be much appreciated.
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ian sadler
ian sadler

December 12th, 2004, 10:48 am #4

Hi use a twist drill in a hand held drill pin vice. as to PE the bassic rules are clean in a vinagar or and slightly acidic sauce brown or red , wash and air dry then aneal with gas flame , store after cool and try not to use your hands but tweezers to avoid the natural grease from your hands . best of luck cheers ian
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Rod Hayes
Rod Hayes

December 12th, 2004, 10:19 pm #5

Hi Ian.
Thanks for your assistance, but the most experience I've had with working with PE is the little bits of metal I've used from my own resources to create mirrors for a couple of Esci Opel Blitzes and Hanomag 251 Cs. Man, I've got to go to church. I'll get back with you when I can. But these terms like "air dry" and "aneal with gas flame," they confuse me. I want to do as brilliant a job as I can w/ the several Revell Panzers I have plus one MR Modelbau Firefly. But I have to get these techniques down first. Thanks, Ian.
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ian sadler
ian sadler

December 14th, 2004, 10:42 am #6

Hi Dry air means what is says leave to dry all by its self do not use any heat at this stage. Use tweezers to handle it when passing through a gas flame , you will see the flame change colours and so does the brass. it is only by experiance that will you know when to remove it and leave to cool down . As always try this on a scrap piece first .The anealing is to help in the bending of PE and softens the metal . If you bend brass to many times it becomes work hardened or brittle . You just repeat the anealing to resoften it . Hope this has cleared up some of your questions cheers ian
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Rod Hayes
Rod Hayes

December 14th, 2004, 10:50 pm #7

that involves PE. It's the resin Milicast GMC duece-and-a-half truck that accompanies Heller's deuce-and-a-half. The PE is there. I had some success thanks to your explaining with cutting away the resin film. It seems like it came away w/ out any problems. Still, Milicast didn't give enough direction with how and what to use. As it stands, I've got two window shields to choose from but I'm thinking the one w/ the handles is the version that one uses when they want the window shield to be lifted up and supported on the metal cab. I can't be sure but the directions seem to indicate that. Anyway Ian, I'll obviously have to put your data into practice soon as I get into the meat of this project. It looks exciting - this 1/73 scale Milicast GMC 353 CCKW duece-and-a-half truck.
Thanks for your assistance.
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Ian Hanratty
Ian Hanratty

December 20th, 2004, 3:11 pm #8

Hi Rod

Just a quick thought. Could the etched brass front windscreen be in two halfs that are meant to be folded over a piece of clear plastic to give inside and external details to the kit. I have not built one of these kits but recall seeing them at a show and seem to recall this was what was meant to be done.

If I can help in any way please feel free to drop me a line

Cheers

Ian Hanratty
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