PE Question

Hosted by Dave Parker from AFV Modeller magazine and Adam Wilder, this discussion group is geared towards modelling technique questions ranging from construction to final weathering. This forum was created so that "newbies" can post without being intimidated by the sometimes highly technical nature of the other discussion groups.

PE Question

Joined: December 5th, 2007, 3:00 pm

May 19th, 2008, 11:38 pm #1

I have little expieriance with PE. I am going to make the stowage bins for the rear of a Panther. Soldering is out of the question. So I am thinking to make my corners more secure is to take the unused PE fret and use strips, bent at 45* angles on the interior. Would this work or should I just bend the parts and glue them with out the interior reinforcement?

Thanks,
Mark

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Joined: August 12th, 2004, 3:14 pm

May 20th, 2008, 3:19 pm #2

If you are making the bins closed, I would just use some Evergreen square plastic rod. Glue them in the corners for a 90% angle.
DAVID NICKELS
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Joined: April 28th, 2005, 8:56 pm

May 20th, 2008, 4:02 pm #3

I have little expieriance with PE. I am going to make the stowage bins for the rear of a Panther. Soldering is out of the question. So I am thinking to make my corners more secure is to take the unused PE fret and use strips, bent at 45* angles on the interior. Would this work or should I just bend the parts and glue them with out the interior reinforcement?

Thanks,
Mark

If you are making them closed...Why not just glue the PE over the original parts??
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Joined: March 11th, 2008, 3:08 pm

May 20th, 2008, 5:25 pm #4

I have little expieriance with PE. I am going to make the stowage bins for the rear of a Panther. Soldering is out of the question. So I am thinking to make my corners more secure is to take the unused PE fret and use strips, bent at 45* angles on the interior. Would this work or should I just bend the parts and glue them with out the interior reinforcement?

Thanks,
Mark

Mark,

I don't know why soldering is out of the question for you. However, I just recently began modelling and was very aprehensive when it came to soldering. To my pleasant surprise it is much easier than it seems and the end result is far beyond that of CA. I also built the Aber Panther rear stowage bins (My first attempt at soldering). I used a $15 Weller 40 Watt Iron I bought at my local hardware store and Tix low temp solder and Tix Flux (available from Micromark) with excellent results. Just in case you change your mind. It is really much easier than people make it out to be.

-Kevin
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Joined: December 5th, 2007, 3:00 pm

May 22nd, 2008, 5:27 pm #5

I talked to my Mom (No I don't live with her I am 37). Anyway when she was younger she used to solder capacitors and the like to boards. So I will have her teach me. Thanks for all your responses. I bought a soldering iron from radio shack. Also flux and solder.

Do you have to anneal PE? I assume you hold the fret with pliers and hold it over the stove burner?


Thanks Again,
Mark

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Joined: August 12th, 2004, 3:14 pm

May 22nd, 2008, 6:23 pm #6

Generally you don't have to do this unless its a curved part like a tube you are rolling.

I do recommend a quality photo-etch bender. Either a Hold N Fold or Etch Mate. You get what you pay for. I ruined more parts without one. Even simple bends can go wrong without the right tools. For the price of two or three p-e sets you can get the tool that allows you to actually USE the etch parts without screwing them up. Same for buying a good Xuron (also Testors) Photo-etch shears.

I have had ok luck soldering. No one taught me but with some trial and error work I can do ok on boxes etc.
DAVID NICKELS
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Joined: December 5th, 2007, 3:00 pm

May 23rd, 2008, 8:18 pm #7

I have the larger set, that also came with a PE roller set. I use a large flat exacto blade to fold. It does not fit the standard exacto (too big). As far as cutting I have some nippers. I am not sure if they are meant for PE but they work. For smaller parts I use a No. 11 exacto.

Thanks for all the help.

Mark

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mld
Joined: November 5th, 2000, 3:22 pm

May 26th, 2008, 4:27 am #8

I have little expieriance with PE. I am going to make the stowage bins for the rear of a Panther. Soldering is out of the question. So I am thinking to make my corners more secure is to take the unused PE fret and use strips, bent at 45* angles on the interior. Would this work or should I just bend the parts and glue them with out the interior reinforcement?

Thanks,
Mark

It has a daunting , too hard for me, aura around it, but is really pretty simple.
Here or Armorma or Planet Armor all have tutorials.

I would add a diamond file to the tool box (Tamiya makes one, Squadron sells it. About $8) or one from a jewelry tool supply house.
I had poor luck filing off the attachment points with the standard metal file, but this diamond file is a sweet little tool. I predict it will get a lot of use.

Mike
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Joined: December 5th, 2007, 3:00 pm

May 26th, 2008, 2:18 pm #9

I have Tom Cockel's "Modelling the Pz.Kpfw. IV". He shows soldering parts using brass aligator clips with wet napkins? As a way to keep from melting the other soldered joints. Do you Guy's do this? also can any one give me the link to Armorma and Planet Armor's tutorials, please.

Thanks,
Mark

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Joined: March 11th, 2008, 3:08 pm

May 26th, 2008, 5:29 pm #10

The only time I had a problem with melting joints close to the one I was soldering was when I was soldering the handles onto the caps of an Aber side stowage bin. To fix the problem I turned off the iron and waited for it to cool. Then I turned it back on and soldered the joint just as it was heating up again. The iron was not hot enough to dissipate the heat and melt the solder close by but hot enough to melt the solder it was touching.

Here's a link to a soldering article:
http://www.indy-amps.org/articles/solde ... ering.html

I'm no soldering expert but don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions. Good luck.

-Kevin
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