Painting plate armour with Humbrol metal cote and Tamiya paint markers. I require advice.

Hosted by Dave Parker from AFV Modeller magazine and Adam Wilder, this discussion group is geared towards modelling technique questions ranging from construction to final weathering. This forum was created so that "newbies" can post without being intimidated by the sometimes highly technical nature of the other discussion groups.

Painting plate armour with Humbrol metal cote and Tamiya paint markers. I require advice.

Joined: June 9th, 2005, 12:18 pm

January 18th, 2006, 12:46 pm #1

Hi there. I'm working on my first historical figure (of a viking) and I've run into a snag doing the metal parts like helms, swords, plate armour and the gold bits like buckles on belts. Obviously hobby metallics are no good because the pigment's too big so I've been experimenting with alternatives. If you'll indulge me...

You've probably used Tamiya paint pens if you do any silver drybrushing. The pigment is very fine and looks great (and it can also be applied with a brush) but I don't want bright shining silver armour so I tried to town it down with matt black enamel. Oddly it doesn't seem to want to mix, and when I brush the mixture on I get silver streaks and it generally looks bad. Also I want to add black to tone gold down to do the belt buckles. I wondered if the black paint marker would mix better than simple hobby enamel so I was wondering if anyone had tried that. I'm asking because I've only got silver and gold and I don't want to buy black without knowing if it's gonna work.

I've also tried Humbrol metalcote polished steel. It looks dark grey when you paint it on but I'm hoping it will look more like metal once it's polished. Perhapse the aluminium one would be better for something like a kights armour?

I've read some posts that say to use ink but I'd rather stick with enamels because there's probably a whole new learning curve with the inks, plus I don't know where to get em. But if anyone has any other ideas I'd be thrilled to hear them.

Thank you kindly.
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: June 9th, 2005, 12:18 pm

January 18th, 2006, 12:48 pm #2

nt
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: June 9th, 2005, 12:18 pm

January 19th, 2006, 1:45 am #3

Hi there. I'm working on my first historical figure (of a viking) and I've run into a snag doing the metal parts like helms, swords, plate armour and the gold bits like buckles on belts. Obviously hobby metallics are no good because the pigment's too big so I've been experimenting with alternatives. If you'll indulge me...

You've probably used Tamiya paint pens if you do any silver drybrushing. The pigment is very fine and looks great (and it can also be applied with a brush) but I don't want bright shining silver armour so I tried to town it down with matt black enamel. Oddly it doesn't seem to want to mix, and when I brush the mixture on I get silver streaks and it generally looks bad. Also I want to add black to tone gold down to do the belt buckles. I wondered if the black paint marker would mix better than simple hobby enamel so I was wondering if anyone had tried that. I'm asking because I've only got silver and gold and I don't want to buy black without knowing if it's gonna work.

I've also tried Humbrol metalcote polished steel. It looks dark grey when you paint it on but I'm hoping it will look more like metal once it's polished. Perhapse the aluminium one would be better for something like a kights armour?

I've read some posts that say to use ink but I'd rather stick with enamels because there's probably a whole new learning curve with the inks, plus I don't know where to get em. But if anyone has any other ideas I'd be thrilled to hear them.

Thank you kindly.
...the plate armour on this guy.

http://www.verlinden-productions.com/vp ... /1238.html
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: April 20th, 2005, 11:22 am

January 19th, 2006, 8:40 am #4

Dear Phil,
You may want to try the Mr Metal color range - these are very good - very creamy consistency with no obvious pigment chips and they can be polished if requried
MDC are the UK distributors www.modeldesignconstruction.com

regards David
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: August 12th, 2004, 3:14 pm

January 19th, 2006, 2:01 pm #5

They are not imported to the US so I get mine from Rainbow 10 in Japan.
DAVID NICKELS
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: June 9th, 2005, 12:18 pm

January 20th, 2006, 2:05 am #6

Dear Phil,
You may want to try the Mr Metal color range - these are very good - very creamy consistency with no obvious pigment chips and they can be polished if requried
MDC are the UK distributors www.modeldesignconstruction.com

regards David
Hi, thanks guys. Would you know if the gold Mr. Metal Color is (if you get me) a sort of dull gold suitable for belt buckles and the armour trim on this guy? Or is it a vibrant gold that you'd paint an actual gold object with? If it is, how would you tone it down?

Thanks.

http://www.verlinden-productions.com/vp ... /1426.html
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: April 20th, 2005, 11:22 am

January 20th, 2006, 8:28 am #7

Yes I think it is very much like that - there is also a superb Brass colour which would also work well - I cannot recommend these paints highly enough - even if they do not suit your current project you will not regret having them.

regards David
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: June 9th, 2005, 12:18 pm

January 20th, 2006, 12:45 pm #8

Hi again. These Mr. Metal Colors sound like what I need. I think I can get them here. I have a concern about a post I read elsewhere that they remain soft and it's easy to mark them with finger prints and things. Is that true, or are they ok if given enough time to dry? Also can you airbrush them, and can you mix them with other gunze acrylics?

One final question... which color would be best for weapons (like swords) and armour like in the guy in my other post?

Thanks heaps. This could be the solution I've been looking for.
Quote
Like
Share

Joined: August 12th, 2004, 3:14 pm

January 20th, 2006, 2:49 pm #9

Any of the "Mr" paints are laquers. Yes you can airbrush them. For figures, I always mount them on painting bases and then their final base so I don't have to handle them a lot...
DAVID NICKELS
Quote
Like
Share