Order of Finish...A Multiple Choice Poll

Hosted by Dave Parker from AFV Modeller magazine and Adam Wilder, this discussion group is geared towards modelling technique questions ranging from construction to final weathering. This forum was created so that "newbies" can post without being intimidated by the sometimes highly technical nature of the other discussion groups.

Order of Finish...A Multiple Choice Poll

Joined: February 14th, 2002, 10:06 pm

March 23rd, 2004, 1:09 am #1

OK Guys (and Gals...there are a few female tread-heads out there)!

We'll assume you use either an acrylic or enamel undercoating...preshade or not....after a primer coat.

What order do you use when you apply final finishing and weathering to your models? Is it...

A)Primer, Paint and Shade, Filters or Washes THEN a gloss coat for decals (or a cover coat for dry transfers), then finish with pastels/pigments, dusting, etc...

B)Primer, Paint and Shade, Filters and washes, and pigments/pastels...THEN gloss or clear for markings, and a finish coat of dusting/pigments

-or-

C) Some other incomprehensible, yet totally fantastic combination that works well for you?

Please use specifics if A or B don't fully describe your techniques...or if C is you're "final answer."

Thanks...the results should be most intersting, don't you think?
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Joined: February 3rd, 2001, 3:35 am

March 23rd, 2004, 2:36 am #2

"Is that your final answer?"
"Yes, c is my final answer."
Anyway the way I finish my kits is: Prime/paint, gloss coat, decal, wash, drybrush, flat coat and then any weathering/pastels. I just tried shading OD using Tamiya paints but when I gloss coated it all turned to one tone of paint. Had to change my pattern this time to add a flat coat after the wash so I could shade my kit.
Eric
There's never enough time to do all the nothing you want.

Calvin and Hobbs 1990
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Jakko Westerbeke
Jakko Westerbeke

March 23rd, 2004, 10:44 am #3

OK Guys (and Gals...there are a few female tread-heads out there)!

We'll assume you use either an acrylic or enamel undercoating...preshade or not....after a primer coat.

What order do you use when you apply final finishing and weathering to your models? Is it...

A)Primer, Paint and Shade, Filters or Washes THEN a gloss coat for decals (or a cover coat for dry transfers), then finish with pastels/pigments, dusting, etc...

B)Primer, Paint and Shade, Filters and washes, and pigments/pastels...THEN gloss or clear for markings, and a finish coat of dusting/pigments

-or-

C) Some other incomprehensible, yet totally fantastic combination that works well for you?

Please use specifics if A or B don't fully describe your techniques...or if C is you're "final answer."

Thanks...the results should be most intersting, don't you think?
I'll have to pick C as my final answer, too. I don't bother with primer unless there's a good reason (such as the model having lots or metal parts or many different colors over which I want to apply a light-colored paint). Neither do I shade my models or apply filters/glazes, gloss varnish, dull coats, floor wax, or any of that stuff

Basically, I paint the model in the base color plus any camouflage I want to apply over that, then add the decals as well as paint the details such as tools, tires, periscopes, and similar bits (the exact order of these last two steps can vary). After that, I normally apply a wash of earth-colored paint to represent dirt and grime, thicker around the suspension and other areas where dirt builds up. Drybrushing with other earth colors adds more dirt, and I'll apply various other weathering techniques at apropriate times as well.
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Hervé Charbonneau
Hervé Charbonneau

March 23rd, 2004, 2:54 pm #4

OK Guys (and Gals...there are a few female tread-heads out there)!

We'll assume you use either an acrylic or enamel undercoating...preshade or not....after a primer coat.

What order do you use when you apply final finishing and weathering to your models? Is it...

A)Primer, Paint and Shade, Filters or Washes THEN a gloss coat for decals (or a cover coat for dry transfers), then finish with pastels/pigments, dusting, etc...

B)Primer, Paint and Shade, Filters and washes, and pigments/pastels...THEN gloss or clear for markings, and a finish coat of dusting/pigments

-or-

C) Some other incomprehensible, yet totally fantastic combination that works well for you?

Please use specifics if A or B don't fully describe your techniques...or if C is you're "final answer."

Thanks...the results should be most intersting, don't you think?
Here's my sequence:

1. Primer (Tamiya semi-gloss black)
2. Base color (since I build mostly WWII US, Tamiya olive drab)
3. Camouflage (when applicable)
4. Decals (usually waterslide with adequate treatment)
5. Testor dullcote laquer
6. Details (tools, straps, etc.)
7. Rust (where applicable)
8. Dust overspray (thinned down Tamiya buff)
9. Powdered graphite rub
10. Specific weathering (pastels, mud, dirt, etc.)

Works for me.

Charby
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Mig Jimenez
Mig Jimenez

March 23rd, 2004, 4:17 pm #5

OK Guys (and Gals...there are a few female tread-heads out there)!

We'll assume you use either an acrylic or enamel undercoating...preshade or not....after a primer coat.

What order do you use when you apply final finishing and weathering to your models? Is it...

A)Primer, Paint and Shade, Filters or Washes THEN a gloss coat for decals (or a cover coat for dry transfers), then finish with pastels/pigments, dusting, etc...

B)Primer, Paint and Shade, Filters and washes, and pigments/pastels...THEN gloss or clear for markings, and a finish coat of dusting/pigments

-or-

C) Some other incomprehensible, yet totally fantastic combination that works well for you?

Please use specifics if A or B don't fully describe your techniques...or if C is you're "final answer."

Thanks...the results should be most intersting, don't you think?
1) Base color airbrush
2) Fading the base color with airbrush
3) Filters
4) Washes
5) Soft dry brush (optional)
6) base color CHIPS
7) Rust chips
8) Metal/steel chips
9) Pre-dust areas (airbrush)
10)First layers of dry dust (Pigments+turpentine)
11)Final touch of dust (pigment dry)
12) DRY MUD (optional)
13) Fresh Mud (Optional)
14) Boots marks crew(steps)
15) Painting Tools and details as tail lights.
16) Oil dirt, fuel stains
17) final touch with pigments.
18) Don't APPLY ANY KIND OF VARNISH, just, don't touch your model and glue it in a base

All the best

MIG

PS: Anyway, even with all kinds of variations, all process can work well!
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Reidar Morten Syvertsen
Reidar Morten Syvertsen

March 23rd, 2004, 5:31 pm #6

OK Guys (and Gals...there are a few female tread-heads out there)!

We'll assume you use either an acrylic or enamel undercoating...preshade or not....after a primer coat.

What order do you use when you apply final finishing and weathering to your models? Is it...

A)Primer, Paint and Shade, Filters or Washes THEN a gloss coat for decals (or a cover coat for dry transfers), then finish with pastels/pigments, dusting, etc...

B)Primer, Paint and Shade, Filters and washes, and pigments/pastels...THEN gloss or clear for markings, and a finish coat of dusting/pigments

-or-

C) Some other incomprehensible, yet totally fantastic combination that works well for you?

Please use specifics if A or B don't fully describe your techniques...or if C is you're "final answer."

Thanks...the results should be most intersting, don't you think?
Sadly I finish too few models to have a strict system, it's all hit and miss with me....

However this is a probable course of events:

1: Skip priming if it can be avoided.(which is almost always)
2: Base colour
3: Camouflage when applicable
3: Brush on a coat of Johnson Klear
4: Wash
5: Most often more Johnson Klear where wet decals go
6: Decals, wet decals treated with Solvaset
7: Decals dry and wet sealed in place with Johnson Klear
8: Dry brush if applicable
9: Depending on model's shine - it's armour and NOT supposed to be dead flat, I may apply a coat of Xtracolor XDFF, it's a really good flat varnish.
10: Fix model to base
11: Chipping with brush as well as pencil
12: Pastel powders

Of course there are more variables, depending on type of vehicle, what theater of operations, kind of weather and time of year, but the above is at least a rough draft.

Cheers

Reidar Morten
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Rick Purdy
Rick Purdy

March 24th, 2004, 4:57 am #7

OK Guys (and Gals...there are a few female tread-heads out there)!

We'll assume you use either an acrylic or enamel undercoating...preshade or not....after a primer coat.

What order do you use when you apply final finishing and weathering to your models? Is it...

A)Primer, Paint and Shade, Filters or Washes THEN a gloss coat for decals (or a cover coat for dry transfers), then finish with pastels/pigments, dusting, etc...

B)Primer, Paint and Shade, Filters and washes, and pigments/pastels...THEN gloss or clear for markings, and a finish coat of dusting/pigments

-or-

C) Some other incomprehensible, yet totally fantastic combination that works well for you?

Please use specifics if A or B don't fully describe your techniques...or if C is you're "final answer."

Thanks...the results should be most intersting, don't you think?
pretty much 'c'
1-prime
2-spot rust if salt chip used
3-base color
4-camo-optional
5-spot future for wet decals-option
6-dry transfers-option
7-muds-bow,running gear,butt end
8-washes-alternate oils/enamels,flood and stepple
9-pinwash local grimes,rust,fuelstains,
10-dry brush highlights/wear points
11-dulcote spot shot or full monty-optional
12-pencil work/chalks
13-place in dio-never permanently attach
always trying something new each build/dio
and always havin' fun
Rick
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Chris Salak
Chris Salak

March 24th, 2004, 3:37 pm #8

Here's my sequence:

1. Primer (Tamiya semi-gloss black)
2. Base color (since I build mostly WWII US, Tamiya olive drab)
3. Camouflage (when applicable)
4. Decals (usually waterslide with adequate treatment)
5. Testor dullcote laquer
6. Details (tools, straps, etc.)
7. Rust (where applicable)
8. Dust overspray (thinned down Tamiya buff)
9. Powdered graphite rub
10. Specific weathering (pastels, mud, dirt, etc.)

Works for me.

Charby
Just wondering because I use Tamiya flat black. What advantage would I gain if it was semi-gloss? Thanks.

Chris
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Hervé Charbonneau
Hervé Charbonneau

March 25th, 2004, 2:10 pm #9

I primed a model once with flat black, and found I could hardly touch the thing without leaving marks on the primer. Semi-gloss has pretty much the same finish/texture as flat black when sprayed, with a slight sheen, but for some reason seems to stick better to the model and appears harder to "dent".

I should probably add that except for the "buff" overspray, I use a rough 50/50 mix of paint and isopropyl alcohol for every layer.

Hope this helps.

Charby
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Joined: February 3rd, 2002, 7:47 pm

March 25th, 2004, 4:29 pm #10

OK Guys (and Gals...there are a few female tread-heads out there)!

We'll assume you use either an acrylic or enamel undercoating...preshade or not....after a primer coat.

What order do you use when you apply final finishing and weathering to your models? Is it...

A)Primer, Paint and Shade, Filters or Washes THEN a gloss coat for decals (or a cover coat for dry transfers), then finish with pastels/pigments, dusting, etc...

B)Primer, Paint and Shade, Filters and washes, and pigments/pastels...THEN gloss or clear for markings, and a finish coat of dusting/pigments

-or-

C) Some other incomprehensible, yet totally fantastic combination that works well for you?

Please use specifics if A or B don't fully describe your techniques...or if C is you're "final answer."

Thanks...the results should be most intersting, don't you think?
Base coat with Model Air. Post shade with lightened base coat. Apply several coats of clear flat to give depth to the paint and adds a touch of semi gloss. Apply filters and pin washes. Base coat tools and misc. items. Tamiya Buff overspray to tie things together. More washes for depth and paint chipping. Rust streaks, scratches, etc. Pigments and Viola-

James
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