More shots of JS2 and JSU-152

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This "virtual workbench" is hosted by Robert Oehler and Brett Green, and is designed so that Missing-lynx readers can share their "in progress" photos with the rest of the readership and generate constructive discussions. Participation is open to all Missing-lynx visitors.

More shots of JS2 and JSU-152

Joined: February 3rd, 2002, 7:47 pm

July 5th, 2011, 2:10 pm #1

I added some marking to the vehicles and tried a different photo setup. There is way more going on with the paint jobs than I can get to show in the pics. I am still working on it so please be patient.

More work to follow-

I just primed 2- Panthers G's (1 steel and 1 rubber)
and the Diana Half-track (I am on a desert kick) plus a 1/4th Tiger 1 early.

I'll post these when they get their basecoats. In the meantime...



I screwed up the fuel transfer on the tan- Ill have this fixed soon. I was in a hurry to get this photo crap figured out.




Looks like a white balance issue- but it is actually a depth of filed problem caused by over lighting. I have since filtered the light and am backing off on the wattage from 1K watts to 500 watts. Hopefully this coupled with the proper filters or screens will afford a longer aperture opening for belter depth of filed without white balance washout- but we'll see.





I am definitely on the right track- I just need a little more tweaking. Any tips?

Right now I am using a Canon Rebel XT with the custom WB setting, 1K watts overhead through white screen as diffusers. I am going to back off to 2-250 watt reflectors through diffusers which should help.

Thanks for looking -

JD
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Joined: May 29th, 2009, 4:03 pm

July 5th, 2011, 4:36 pm #2

I really like the paint job on the Pz I assault gun. The fuel drums on the Soviet armor could be better.
Weld seams on the joins and fill in the join on the straps. I cut the molded handles off and replace with brass. Also vary the color of them. Look forward to seeing more of your work. PK
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Joined: February 3rd, 2002, 7:47 pm

July 5th, 2011, 6:17 pm #3

Believe it or not I could not see the forest for the trees!

I will fill the seamsand run a knife along the edges. I think i can very the color of the straps a little and the drums and change things up a little.

Thanks-

JD
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Joined: January 27th, 2005, 12:07 pm

July 5th, 2011, 7:32 pm #4

I added some marking to the vehicles and tried a different photo setup. There is way more going on with the paint jobs than I can get to show in the pics. I am still working on it so please be patient.

More work to follow-

I just primed 2- Panthers G's (1 steel and 1 rubber)
and the Diana Half-track (I am on a desert kick) plus a 1/4th Tiger 1 early.

I'll post these when they get their basecoats. In the meantime...



I screwed up the fuel transfer on the tan- Ill have this fixed soon. I was in a hurry to get this photo crap figured out.




Looks like a white balance issue- but it is actually a depth of filed problem caused by over lighting. I have since filtered the light and am backing off on the wattage from 1K watts to 500 watts. Hopefully this coupled with the proper filters or screens will afford a longer aperture opening for belter depth of filed without white balance washout- but we'll see.





I am definitely on the right track- I just need a little more tweaking. Any tips?

Right now I am using a Canon Rebel XT with the custom WB setting, 1K watts overhead through white screen as diffusers. I am going to back off to 2-250 watt reflectors through diffusers which should help.

Thanks for looking -

JD
The photos look good but you say the pics are not showing everything that is going on paint-wise.
What settings do you use on the camera? I have a Canon 450 (similar to your Rebel I believe) and shoot at 100 ASA in full manual and usually stop down to f22.
My lighting just consists of three 100w equivalent energy saving daylight bulbs.

Regards
Andy K

--------------------------------------------
http://andyksmodelblog.blogspot.com/
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Joined: February 3rd, 2002, 7:47 pm

July 5th, 2011, 8:21 pm #5

I am having white balance issues- you can see in each photo how the background looks like a different color. I am trying to mimic as much as possible what one would see if viewing in front of them. I am using 2- 500 Watt reflectors above and to the side of the subject- which may be to much cuasing the problems. I am trying different settings using the manual shutter, etc. but it still runs some automatically. The darker I ge tthe site while illuminating everything to prevent harsh shadows, the more relaitic colors I get as the aperature is open longer causing greater dpth of filed. Right now it is open about 1 second or more depending on the color of the background and subject, etc.

Dark yellow or primered vehicles in lighter cors relfect more causing faster shots with less depth of field (DOF). I get better DOF when I go with darker colors like the JSU and IS greens above.

Any helpful hints? Any recent photos of your set up?

Thanks-

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Joined: February 16th, 2008, 4:10 am

July 5th, 2011, 9:43 pm #6

Put an 18% gray card in front of, or in place of, the model and meter from it. Note the shutter speed and aperture values, and then manually set them.

That will keep the exposure setting consistent. You can fine tune it for overly light or dark models by increasing or decreasing the shutter speed.

Keep in mind that while the smallest aperture provides the most depth of field, often it is not the sharpest setting. If your lens has a max aperture of f22, and f16 provide good depth of field, you may find pictures are sharper at f16. Tests will show this.

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Joined: February 6th, 2009, 1:45 am

July 6th, 2011, 2:38 am #7

I added some marking to the vehicles and tried a different photo setup. There is way more going on with the paint jobs than I can get to show in the pics. I am still working on it so please be patient.

More work to follow-

I just primed 2- Panthers G's (1 steel and 1 rubber)
and the Diana Half-track (I am on a desert kick) plus a 1/4th Tiger 1 early.

I'll post these when they get their basecoats. In the meantime...



I screwed up the fuel transfer on the tan- Ill have this fixed soon. I was in a hurry to get this photo crap figured out.




Looks like a white balance issue- but it is actually a depth of filed problem caused by over lighting. I have since filtered the light and am backing off on the wattage from 1K watts to 500 watts. Hopefully this coupled with the proper filters or screens will afford a longer aperture opening for belter depth of filed without white balance washout- but we'll see.





I am definitely on the right track- I just need a little more tweaking. Any tips?

Right now I am using a Canon Rebel XT with the custom WB setting, 1K watts overhead through white screen as diffusers. I am going to back off to 2-250 watt reflectors through diffusers which should help.

Thanks for looking -

JD
hi JD... nice builds...I am no photographer,but,. about the photography, I am wondering why you are using so much wattage. ?
I photograph all my models with 2, and sometimes 3 60 watt regular light bulbs ... and never ever a flash...often I put a sheet of printer paper over the lights for a filter. I use a kodak cx7530 pocket camera, always on a pedistal or tripod, set to close up.
you can get very good photos with minimal equipment if you practice and set everything up right. here is some of my work, old and newer.
good luck to you,
william


http://www.network54.com/Forum/110741/m ... s+%2812%29
http://www.network54.com/Forum/110741/m ... amp%3B+new
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Joined: January 22nd, 2005, 10:18 pm

July 6th, 2011, 6:16 pm #8

Put an 18% gray card in front of, or in place of, the model and meter from it. Note the shutter speed and aperture values, and then manually set them.

That will keep the exposure setting consistent. You can fine tune it for overly light or dark models by increasing or decreasing the shutter speed.

Keep in mind that while the smallest aperture provides the most depth of field, often it is not the sharpest setting. If your lens has a max aperture of f22, and f16 provide good depth of field, you may find pictures are sharper at f16. Tests will show this.
I too was having the same problem. I am going to give your technique a shot.
Outta here, Mike sends . . .
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Joined: February 3rd, 2002, 7:47 pm

July 6th, 2011, 9:53 pm #9

Put an 18% gray card in front of, or in place of, the model and meter from it. Note the shutter speed and aperture values, and then manually set them.

That will keep the exposure setting consistent. You can fine tune it for overly light or dark models by increasing or decreasing the shutter speed.

Keep in mind that while the smallest aperture provides the most depth of field, often it is not the sharpest setting. If your lens has a max aperture of f22, and f16 provide good depth of field, you may find pictures are sharper at f16. Tests will show this.
I am using agray card to set it each time- I take the photo with the current background, etc. than set the white balalnce to match that photo. I control the aperature as much as the lens will allow - but am still not getting the F stop i want.

I will try your method-

Thanks-

james
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Joined: February 3rd, 2002, 7:47 pm

July 6th, 2011, 9:59 pm #10

hi JD... nice builds...I am no photographer,but,. about the photography, I am wondering why you are using so much wattage. ?
I photograph all my models with 2, and sometimes 3 60 watt regular light bulbs ... and never ever a flash...often I put a sheet of printer paper over the lights for a filter. I use a kodak cx7530 pocket camera, always on a pedistal or tripod, set to close up.
you can get very good photos with minimal equipment if you practice and set everything up right. here is some of my work, old and newer.
good luck to you,
william


http://www.network54.com/Forum/110741/m ... s+%2812%29
http://www.network54.com/Forum/110741/m ... amp%3B+new
No offence-

And some of your shots look great-
But they are inconsistent. You have some blur both near and far- which are the depth of field issues I have already contended with. This is where the "minimal" equipemnt falls short. The less expensive lenses just will not supprt the depth of field required. I have a Macro lens too I am often using.
Thank you very much for your words and your pics- and they do look good. The detail is great and the lighting is perfection. If the blur was gone I would say you have naled it.

I think you are right about the lighting- which is why I am gong with less wattage. But again- too long can lead to white balance issues agan- this is what less light brings. Also, I use a remote trigger as just the simple act of pushing the shutter release can actually cause the blur you are seeing in your shots at such long aperature openings.

Thanks again for your response and I always learn somethign from every post. I am still looking at your pics- and the lighting again is awesome.

James

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