Hataka acrylic paints

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Joined: November 5th, 2008, 8:18 pm

June 20th, 2018, 10:08 pm #11

I don’t know this media airbrush cleaner.
There is one guy (Ricardo) in one spanish forum who did a great post comparing different acrylics with different thinners. Here is the link.
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/forodem ... t9361.html
If you don’t understand spanish maybe you can understand enough with google translator.
This guy makes great tutorials and must have some chemical background. I think his approach is quite scientific and objective.
I think this can give an insight about these mistery behaviours with acrylics. The family where this Hataka belong (similar to Vallejo, Ammo, AK) is actually not all the same, behaviour differences can be detected. Curious. Personally I think it depends on how the manufacturers undertsand these paints and process, only Vallejo delivers something consistent, with a stable performance.
He had just done another post about a test shot with Hataka but the new lacquers, his comments about the brand in general are not good. By the way I remebered I had purchased some Hataka paints acrylic months ago, did a couple of tries and had a bad impression. Did not have the goo but dit not consider worth to keep trying.
Kind regards
Nacho Roces
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Joined: May 19th, 2013, 9:12 pm

June 30th, 2018, 2:07 am #12

I don't want to come off as snarky here but, did you bother to do a Google search on spraying Hataka paints? I went looking for this info as I have several sets for aircraft and can attest to them spraying great. The rub is this, when first released there were issues with quality control and users having issues like you mention with the acrylics. Hataka got on it pretty quick for a fledgling new company and created their proprietary thinner to help. But this only works well with the new formula paints! I can't say who/where you bought your set from but there is a really good chance you have one of those early sets. My suggestion to you is to contact the seller and get a new set or failing that Hataka should answer you and replace it. I had suspicions about older sets still lurking out there and made a point of only buying them from rebelalpha on eBay as he sells so much that he has no old stock on hand. Plus Scott is really honest and would replace it in a heart beat if it was defective. Scott took care of me when I got some Armada resin F404's for an F-18 I was building. The maker used a master that had a resin drip on the part and molded it onto all casts but never caught it before they left the factory! If you're asking, what do I know about spraying paint? I own (and use) 15 airbrushes with some sweet vintage pieces and all are optimized for fine to mid range work. Hell, I even figured out how to make a Micron out of an Olympos HP-100SB for $200!
Regards,
Chris the Cabbie
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Joined: April 10th, 2008, 5:50 pm

June 30th, 2018, 4:32 pm #13

Chris,
Thanks for the comments.  I don't know if the paint I bought is new or old production.  I bought it a little over a year ago.  I am aware of others having issues and did buy the Hataka thinner.  If it helps, I have been airbrushing for going on 30 years and use high end double action brushes.  I have been using the "newer" acrylic paints for goin on 4 years now.  I always buy and use the proprietary thinner.  A little over a week ago I reached out to Hataka with the problem I am having.  They have not responded to me.  I don't want to give up on their paints because they have some colors I like very much.  One way or another I will find the answer  : )
Mark
Mark Ford
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Joined: May 19th, 2013, 9:12 pm

June 30th, 2018, 6:51 pm #14

Mark,

Don't always feel that you have to follow the modelling crowd as they often know less than you do. An example, for decades everyone couldn't figure out how to thin Tamiya acrylic paint- remember from 1980 on? First you had to use water, then Isopropyl alcohol. Then it had to be 87% and then 91% and then 96%. Now the consensus (if it merits that term at all) is to use lacquer thinner by Tamiya. Have you sprayed Lacquer indoors and not stunk the place up to hell afterwards? I use acetone and it is hands down the best thinner for many acrylics (not Hataka or Vallejo type acrylics) enamel and lacquer paints and it evaporates before it touches the model. For gloss Tamiya acrylics, it makes spraying them a breeze with a perfect gloss shine! Most people (that don't experiment) get orange peel textured paint. What I'm getting at is this, most propitary thinners aren't really necessary. Just be willing to experiment with some paint in a dosage cup(great for decanting) and find what works for you. How many morons used the blue Super Lube that Iwata included with their airbrushes? Then found out it coated all their rubber seals and made them sticky and could not clean it off and messed up how the brush worked? Had to replace all rubber seals and clean out all affected areas. So just don't feel you have drink the Kool Aid- okay? If you haven't heard of it, visit the Orange airbrush forum as it will teach you alot that you may not know about those nice expensive tools that will help you up your airbrushing game. The history part alone is downright fascinating.
Regards,
Chris the cabbie
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Joined: January 15th, 2012, 7:21 pm

July 3rd, 2018, 6:51 am #15

About Hataka, I have seen a pretty convincing demo from Gerard, spraying with Hataka. But he was also saying that the thinner from them was rubbish.

See his comments here for more info about this topic: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/ind ... ka-paints/

Best regards, Bas
www.twenot.nl
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Joined: April 10th, 2008, 5:50 pm

July 3rd, 2018, 4:01 pm #16

Thanks Bas.  I will check out the link.
Mark
Mark Ford
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Joined: March 18th, 2013, 10:46 pm

July 6th, 2018, 8:43 pm #17

i've just got there nato green A152 from there red line section which is airbrush ready can't fault it even in this heat went down exceptionally well 
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Joined: July 10th, 2016, 11:49 pm

July 12th, 2018, 12:51 am #18

I've sprayed Hataka only once, using one of their British WW2 AFV colours on my 1/35 Tortoise.  I ended up switching brushes to one with a 0.5mm nozzle, which worked fine.  As noted above, finer nozzles just clogged despite thinning, retarding and a bit of Washable Agent.  I used the Ultimate Modelling Products Universal Thinner. Seemed to work.  I used their cleaner too.
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