Extremely dumb question

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Extremely dumb question

Joined: December 17th, 2010, 6:46 pm

April 3rd, 2012, 8:49 pm #1

what the different between
ak interactive
Ak 047 White Spirit 100 Ml

Ak 050 Odorless Turpentine

Mig thinner for washes

im about to weather my Kurland AAA and dont wanna mess using the wrong one product. im using tamiya piant and vallejo satin varnish
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Joined: December 21st, 2011, 10:03 pm

April 3rd, 2012, 9:35 pm #2

I have been working and experimenting with AK Interactive's weathering products and Mig Pigments. I have found that about any thinner will work, although some will hold the non-pigment weathering products in solution a little better. I've used the AK "White Spirit", Humbrol Thinner, and regular artist oil thinners all with decent results. I went to an art supply store to get "White Spirit" and no one there had heard of anything with that description. They assumed it was probably the same a mineral spirits. Just make sure your acrylic base coats are cured and you should have no trouble. Here are some photos of a Flakpanzer T-34 hull that I just weathered with a combination of all of the above.






Hope this helps.
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Joined: March 15th, 2005, 9:29 am

April 4th, 2012, 8:05 am #3

what the different between
ak interactive
Ak 047 White Spirit 100 Ml

Ak 050 Odorless Turpentine

Mig thinner for washes

im about to weather my Kurland AAA and dont wanna mess using the wrong one product. im using tamiya piant and vallejo satin varnish
Hello:

there are differences between different thinners like brand cars in the world!!

But I will explain you in few words:

-the MIg Thinner is a soft turpentine, good for washes for example.
-The AK odorless thinner is exactly the same than avobe but....Oderless, in case you cannot use regular turpentine.
-The AK White Spirit (black and orange label) is a bit more stronger than the otehr two, and very different composition, and could be useful to stump oils, or blend streaking effects. Anyway, it doesn't attack acrylic bases or enamel when it is very dry.

In any case, these ones are much more higher quality that any thinner or whiet spirit that you can find in any art store.

Like when you buy any whiskey or wine, there are cheap ones and more expensive ones, and it is because the quality of the product.

I hope its help!

Thank you

MIG

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Joined: December 17th, 2010, 6:46 pm

April 4th, 2012, 1:44 pm #4

Who knew asking a dumb question wuld get a answer from MIG. I'm not worth lol.Thanks so so much
I'm going for the oderless thinner since i dont alot of oil dotting or streaking yet.But when i do ill buy a 100ml bottle of the White spirit. Ill start posting pics of my very very unqie stug after my order arrives
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Joined: June 4th, 2006, 8:36 pm

April 4th, 2012, 9:21 pm #5

I have been working and experimenting with AK Interactive's weathering products and Mig Pigments. I have found that about any thinner will work, although some will hold the non-pigment weathering products in solution a little better. I've used the AK "White Spirit", Humbrol Thinner, and regular artist oil thinners all with decent results. I went to an art supply store to get "White Spirit" and no one there had heard of anything with that description. They assumed it was probably the same a mineral spirits. Just make sure your acrylic base coats are cured and you should have no trouble. Here are some photos of a Flakpanzer T-34 hull that I just weathered with a combination of all of the above.






Hope this helps.
I am working on that same vehicle. Yours is much better than mine. Just a small point: this tank did not have any spare track on the glacis. Love the missing bolts on the arse end.

Danny Egan
Not speaking for AMPS
http://www.amps-armor.org
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Joined: December 21st, 2011, 10:03 pm

April 5th, 2012, 12:23 am #6

You know, I didn't even look that close at the few reference photos concerning the tracks on the glacis. The instructions call for it, but you're right, a closer look and it looks like there may be something there but not track links. Oh well. as they say - absence of proof is not necessarily proof of absence I'll be looking for your model in Auburn. All that's left is to add the tracks and a final flat coat.
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