How to make Metro Projector Headlights for Cheap...

z34-5speed
Elite Member
Joined: September 28th, 2008, 9:56 pm

April 12th, 2010, 4:19 am #1

Before we start, this isn't very difficult to do, just takes at least a day. Also, you WILL lose your high beams, however your new lows should be brighter anyways. :rocker

Also, credit to my friend Blake for designing the majority of the unit itself, and helping make them.

Alright.

You will need the following materials for this retrofit:

1 Pair of BMW 7 Series Projector headlights (late 80s early 90s). Look in a JunkYard
2 Packs of JB Quick Weld epoxy
1 piece of 4 inch PVC tubing, at least 10 inches(you'll have some leftover).
1 Pair of factory BMW 9006 Plugs and about 4 inches of the cooresponding wires. (grab the bulbs if you can for even cheaper)
Black Paint (optional, but recommended)
Medium sized piece of plexiglass
Some type of Dremel like thing(to trim the factory mounting location), and something to cut the PVC straight (hacksaw, chopsaw, Chuck Norris, etc...)

Alright so first you need to disassemble the factory headlight assembly:




Now take the actual headlight buckets (the piece on the far right in the above pic) and get them cleaned up(get the grease, dirt, etc off)

Now the 2nd step you will need to do it this:

Take the PVC pipe and cut 2 sections to exactly 2.5inches long.

Next mix the JB weld into about a halfDollar sized puddle and evenly spread onto 1 end of the cut PVC pipes. Then place the PVC pipe(the end with the JB weld on it) on top of the Metro headlight bucket (you'll notice that it is already semi circular).

Once this is done you need to spread some more JB weld onto where the PVC and bucket meet.

When you are finished with that it should look like the following:




Now, let it dry for about 30 minutes or so (if you used regular JB weld, let it sit for 3 hours). After it is dry and bonded, it is time to paint it if you wish. Mine turned out like this:




Next we are going to mount the actual projector to the new housing we've made.

Make SURE you have the side of the projector with the cutoff shield facing the bottom of the bucket. If you mess this up the Projector is useless b/c JB weld is pretty tough.

Now mount the projector exacly the same as we did with the PVC and bucket, put the JB weld onto the other side of the PVC. Make sure the Projector is level with the bucket, you don't want it at an angle. When you are done with that it should look like the following:


(these pics are split between my fist retrofit and my newer one. White is old, black is new)


Let that sit for the same time as before (30minutes with JB Quick, or 3 hours with regular JB Weld).

Now cut 2 pieces of plexiglass to the exact size of the front of the headlight bucket, and drill holes where the factory holes are on the bucket(not the 2 adjustment holes, the 4 holes in the following pic, towards the 4 corners {bottom 2 are kinda covered}).


Now you dont "have" to seal the front but it is highly recommended. We used window weld if i remember correctly (comes in a roll and is almost like clay and doesn't ever dry). Place that behind the plexiglass along the edges and screw it onto the buckets with the factory chrome trim rings on the outside (kinda tricky) We also eventually painted the trim pieces.

Sadly I dont' have any pics of that, the next pics that i have are of the projectors in the car. :(

Next we move on to actually modifying the car itself.

The 1st thing you will have to do is to trim the circular hole in the back of the radiator support bar. You will mainly have to trim the bottom of it to fit the PVC in. Here is a pic of what mine looked like after it was trimmed.


You can see where the bottom was trimmed.

Next we move onto the wiring part.

The factory Geo bulb should have 3 wires going to it, one for the low beams, one for the high beams, and one ground. We will only use the low and the ground. Should be the red wire with the yellow stripe and the white wire, leave the solid red alone and by itself (that's the high).

Now splice this with the cut 9006 plug and wires, there should only be 2. The colors depend on what car you get them from, but the ground should be obvious. Go ahead and use quick connectors so you can just put the factory bulbs back in (with another set of buckets and trim rings), for inspection, etc. Here is a pic,



After this is done you "should" be finished. Now would be a good time to paint the Metro trim bezel

Now put the newly completed projector assebly back into the factory location. It shoud look like this:






Now you need to adjust the beams, the best place to do so is on level ground in front of a wall or fence, with nothing in front of it. You'll notice that there is a "step" in the light beam, meaning that the left side of the beam is lower than the right, this is normal, it keeps oncoming drivers from being blinded by the light and revved up like a deuce in the middle of the night...lol




That is what it should look like properly adjusted. To adjust the beam just use the factory Metro adjustment screws on the bucket.

And that's it. All in all i spent around $25 for everything both times.

Enjoy!!!

Kyle


Last edited by z34-5speed on April 13th, 2010, 4:29 am, edited 2 times in total.
1992 Geo Metro
5speed
G13B Swap
3Tech Cams 210/340 cams
Turbo Stuff - t2, Tial BOV, Go-Autoworks piping kit, HKS intercooler/fooler
UD pulley
Strider "Velocity" intake manifold
ExcelGs + H&Rspring (1coil cut off front)
F&R Sways + TT Brace + t3Ragtop rear toe arms
TSX Projector Retrofit
Too much other crap to list
Quote
Like
Share

bogs
Elite Member
Joined: October 6th, 2009, 4:57 am

April 12th, 2010, 2:36 pm #2

Nice write up :)

Red Green "Sound ingenious? Sound incredible?? Sound impossible??? Who cares!! I'm not listening :rasp "
. Mans Toolbox - You only need 2 tools, WD40 is for when it doesn't move but should, and Duct tape is for when it shouldn't move but does :rofl
When I'm not here, I'm taking up space on the net or planning to keep track of something :hmm
Quote
Like
Share

zippy
Elite Member
Joined: January 25th, 2009, 9:08 pm

April 13th, 2010, 3:59 am #3

why did you make a second set? something go wrong with the first?
Quote
Like
Share

Coche Blanco
Elite Member
Joined: July 16th, 2009, 2:22 am

April 13th, 2010, 4:05 am #4

He sold them... I think.
1993 3/5 2dr Hatch 'The White One' (SOLD)
1995 4/5 4dr Sedan 'Gumby' (SOLD)
1993 3/3 Convertible 'Impulse' (SOLD)
1993 3/5 Convertible 'Impulse V2.0' (SOLD)
1998 4/5 2dr Hatch 'TBD'
[+] Spoiler
Transmission Ratios Explained
Resize your pictures
Make your base Metro an XFi
Easy headlight upgrade
Search
Quote
Like
Share

z34-5speed
Elite Member
Joined: September 28th, 2008, 9:56 pm

April 13th, 2010, 4:06 am #5

Nope, when the car blew up i needed cash so i sold them to a member on here. I haven't seen him on in a very long time but as far as i know he loved them.

Kyle
1992 Geo Metro
5speed
G13B Swap
3Tech Cams 210/340 cams
Turbo Stuff - t2, Tial BOV, Go-Autoworks piping kit, HKS intercooler/fooler
UD pulley
Strider "Velocity" intake manifold
ExcelGs + H&Rspring (1coil cut off front)
F&R Sways + TT Brace + t3Ragtop rear toe arms
TSX Projector Retrofit
Too much other crap to list
Quote
Like
Share

zippy
Elite Member
Joined: January 25th, 2009, 9:08 pm

April 13th, 2010, 4:14 am #6

ok. wasnt trying to sound like an ass, just wondering about longevity. i kinda want to try this...
Quote
Like
Share

z34-5speed
Elite Member
Joined: September 28th, 2008, 9:56 pm

April 13th, 2010, 4:17 am #7

Here's what the new owner PM'd me in November:

bennie442 · Nov 2 2009, 07:47 PM
Kyle, tonight was the acid test of the projector light set up. Back woods driving without any street lights gave me a great view of the road ahead with a much greater side of the road view that was absent with the original lights. So far that I can tell, this set-up kicks ass over stock lighting. Now the next step is to up-grade to the H.I.D. set-up that you had recommended. My concern here is oncoming drivers will flash me thinking that I am using my high beams. Have you experienced any problems with the H.I.D. kit that you or your friends have used?


So i'm pretty sure he liked them. I didn't see an issue as to why they wouldn't last, JB weld lasts a while.

Kyle
1992 Geo Metro
5speed
G13B Swap
3Tech Cams 210/340 cams
Turbo Stuff - t2, Tial BOV, Go-Autoworks piping kit, HKS intercooler/fooler
UD pulley
Strider "Velocity" intake manifold
ExcelGs + H&Rspring (1coil cut off front)
F&R Sways + TT Brace + t3Ragtop rear toe arms
TSX Projector Retrofit
Too much other crap to list
Quote
Like
Share

zippy
Elite Member
Joined: January 25th, 2009, 9:08 pm

April 13th, 2010, 4:19 am #8

cool. now to find a set of my own.....
Quote
Like
Share

87octane
Advanced Member
Joined: October 1st, 2008, 9:16 pm

April 13th, 2010, 4:54 am #9

That's f'in cool. I'm off to the junkyard to search for 7 series. Lil evil can't renew till it passes smog which means I'm now illegal. Time to tear it apart and feed it GTi rods/pistons/rings/bearings, top it with a stock TBI top end, and limp through smog check. Then the coolness continues with a lightened billet flywheel, centerforce dual friction clutch, and the T3 top goes back on. I've already got hella H4's that don't seem to hold a candle to Kyle's HID's, so once again it's time to keep up with the Joneses. I'll be doin good to escape Pick n Pull for only $25 for 2 lamp assys though. Nice work Kyle. You rock.
95 Metro hatch "Tequila lime" losing "Lil Evil" drivetrain, getting a 3tech economy fresh engine, temporarily...
97 Geo Cultus 1.0 Lil Evil R.I.P. Dec 7 2010 crushed like a beer can on the freeway, totaled by the evil empire GEICO
91 Metro hatch to replace the early hatch that got totalled barely a year after the 97.
89 Suzuki Swift GTi, gutted, needs full suspension and T3 drivetrain, according to me.
92 Tracker 2 dr rwd stock
93 Sidekick 4 dr 1.9 vw TD, WVO conversion, 6" lift over 33's

Quote
Like
Share

z34-5speed
Elite Member
Joined: September 28th, 2008, 9:56 pm

April 13th, 2010, 4:58 am #10

87octane wrote:That's f'in cool. I'm off to the junkyard to search for 7 series. Lil evil can't renew till it passes smog which means I'm now illegal. Time to tear it apart and feed it GTi rods/pistons/rings/bearings, top it with a stock TBI top end, and limp through smog check. Then the coolness continues with a lightened billet flywheel, centerforce dual friction clutch, and the T3 top goes back on. I've already got hella H4's that don't seem to hold a candle to Kyle's HID's, so once again it's time to keep up with the Joneses. I'll be doin good to escape Pick n Pull for only $25 for 2 lamp assys though. Nice work Kyle. You rock.
I actually never got HIDs, those pics are with OEM sylvania 9006 bulbs, HIDs would have blow those out of the water.

And just to edit me saying that you have to get them from a 7 series:

A friend pointed out that they also came in some 3 and 5 series from the early 90s, so check them to.

Just tell the people at the j/y they are foglights. :P B-)
1992 Geo Metro
5speed
G13B Swap
3Tech Cams 210/340 cams
Turbo Stuff - t2, Tial BOV, Go-Autoworks piping kit, HKS intercooler/fooler
UD pulley
Strider "Velocity" intake manifold
ExcelGs + H&Rspring (1coil cut off front)
F&R Sways + TT Brace + t3Ragtop rear toe arms
TSX Projector Retrofit
Too much other crap to list
Quote
Like
Share