Hogleg's Gremlin

Hogleg
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Joined: May 13th, 2013, 6:33 am

June 29th, 2013, 4:58 am #1

It's a bit orange right now, because it hasn't eaten after midnight yet. I would consider trying to rush and get everything done before geopalooza, but I think the paint is going to have to wait till after, so it won't look like much of a gremlin till then. You'll just have to take my word for it.

The car has 122,000mi. The engine has 22k and was replaced at 100,004mi in 2008. The car is originally from South Carolina (the frame horns are impeccable). Brought to Pennsylvania in 2008, it's had a new top, carpet, engine and tranny installed around 100k/mi. In early May of 2013 it was traded for a 1999 cadillac seville the owner was tired of dumping $$$ into. So to OHIO it came, where it's getting some much needed attention....

The list of parts is huge. The parts I installed : NGK IX 3903's, 7.5mm Si mag core wireset, SRD single underdrive pulley, SRD bolt on header, flowmonster cat, K&N filter, synchromesh fluid, old school Boston Acoustics RC41 components w/Scosche Bluetooth headset.. Then we have the parts I'm currently installing : 3Tech 222/365 & +10 sprocket, M.A.C's front and rear strut bars, Raybestos professional control arms, energy ball joint boots, KYB front and rear shocks, struts, bellows, and mounts, moog inner and outer tie rods, CS130 alt & hardware, SureTrack half shafts, Goodyear belts and hoses, POR-15.


The time has come for work to be done. Taking it slow. Waiting on the POR-15 to dry so I can mount my control arms tomorrow..along with some other bolt on goodies!


Enough blabbering. Here's some pics

Lets call this a before picture.


Body shot


Rocker/undercarriage shot soon to be black with POR-15


PO's craigslist shot


Do you see what I see?


That's right! Full race header!


Here's the wireset I used


Header and new wireset


This Geo Glenn approved gasket is holing up quite nicely.


Flowmonster converter


New and relocated O2 sensor




Old ball joint YUCK!!!


EWWW


Old Vs New
Old OEM control arms with gritty ball joints, and disintegrated boots.
Vs
Lifetime Raybestos professional control arms with polyurethane energy ball joint boots, and zerk fittings!



Wrinkle paint finish


Underneath all that sexy green paint is a new set of KYB GR2's (you can see my gatorbacks in the background)


My 181 gram SRD underdrive pulley




My old 1568.8 gram pulley


New one will go here somewhere lol


Old cam (I'll just hold on to that!)


This is where the lifters then 222/365 cam goes.


Phresh POR-15 after a quick wire brush where the control arm bushing goes!


I'll brush some more POR-15 here..



Here on the frame horns too!



Can't forget the other side!


So far I have the control arms and cv axles out. Waiting on new axle seals that should be in tomorrow along with my cam seal. The POR-15 should be dry by then. After those are done, we're doing struts, along with some more POR-15. Then on to the rear.

Stay tuned...
Last edited by Hogleg on April 12th, 2015, 7:19 am, edited 3 times in total.
SOLD : The Gremlin <--Link
1991 Geo Metro Convertible 3/5. Freshly rebuilt engine

Installed parts:3Tech 222/365 cam & +10 sprocket, TT control arm brace, CS130 alt & hardware, M.A.C's front and rear strut bars, KYB front and rear struts, bellows, and mounts, Swift GT seats, Swift GT tail lights, NGK IX 3903's, 7.5mm Si mag core wireset, SRD single underdrive pulley & bolt on titanium wrapped header, flowmonster cat, K&N filter, synchromesh fluid, Raybestos pro control arms with polly boots and zerks, new half shafts, Boston Acoustics RC41 components w/Scosche Bluetooth headset.

Sold 5/5/15

DontH8cuzuaint
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t3ragtop
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Joined: May 2nd, 2010, 10:48 pm

June 29th, 2013, 3:05 pm #2

por15 is a good coating for the exterior of the frame horns but because the seams of the 2 piece clamshell construction aren't fully welded, there's no way to prevent water (and ohio's road salt in solution) from getting inside the frame horns.

also, as the temperature swings through the vapor pressure point, condensation forms on the insides of all the floor channels, frame horns, and rocker tubes. that condensation (like the condensation on the outside of a cold beer can on a hot day) actually rusts a metro from the inside out.

i have found that eastwood company's internal frame spray, a zinc rich phenolic based coating, seals the steel surfaces on the insides of basically unreachable chassis areas and keeps them from forming rust.

i use the application tubing to spray every internal void i can find - lower radiator support, front chassis rails, frame horns, floor channels, rocker panels, front inner fenders, and up behind the toe boards on the front of the floor. i also shoot some along the bottom edges of the door skins from the inside where the rust proofing wicks into the seams.

3 cans of the eastwood internal frame spray does most of the bad places. i've applied 5 cans total so far to remediate rust on my red vert project.

i also like the eastwood company's rust encapsulator. i use it pretty much as a black primer on everything from the steering knuckles and suspension parts to anything on the chassis. it does about the same thing as por15 but also includes a rust converter which chemically changes iron oxide to a zinc oxide which effectively prevents air and moisture from causing further oxidation of the steel parts. it also takes a top coat of paint in your color choice better than por15.

you have to work pretty hard to keep a car from rusting out in ohio, brother. :D
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snowfish
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Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 8:14 pm

June 29th, 2013, 3:53 pm #3

Looks like a Great Project! :rocker And :+1 on everything T3RagTop said. :thumb

When I read this.............
wrote:Do you see what I see?
I saw this! :smackface





Those motor mount bolts are going to be a treat to fix! :'(

Check out here
http://geometroforum.com/topic/4941591/7/
for the fix. :gamerz Been there, done that. ;)
............I'll be back in a bit........



IC3
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Hogleg
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Joined: May 13th, 2013, 6:33 am

June 29th, 2013, 6:37 pm #4

T3, I must have been reading your mind!




Good to know I need 2 more cans. Only picked up one to give it a try.
I get mine from the eastwood company on ebay 16$ a can I think. Where do you purchase yours?


Thanks snowfish! Loving gmf! Without this site, most of the upgrades would just be fixes, and I wouldn't have all the cool parts to install.

If you mean the two holes close together here, they look unused. I suppose I should throw a few bolts in there tho.
Last edited by Hogleg on June 29th, 2013, 6:48 pm, edited 2 times in total.
SOLD : The Gremlin <--Link
1991 Geo Metro Convertible 3/5. Freshly rebuilt engine

Installed parts:3Tech 222/365 cam & +10 sprocket, TT control arm brace, CS130 alt & hardware, M.A.C's front and rear strut bars, KYB front and rear struts, bellows, and mounts, Swift GT seats, Swift GT tail lights, NGK IX 3903's, 7.5mm Si mag core wireset, SRD single underdrive pulley & bolt on titanium wrapped header, flowmonster cat, K&N filter, synchromesh fluid, Raybestos pro control arms with polly boots and zerks, new half shafts, Boston Acoustics RC41 components w/Scosche Bluetooth headset.

Sold 5/5/15

DontH8cuzuaint
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snowfish
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Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 8:14 pm

June 29th, 2013, 7:28 pm #5

wrote: If you mean the two holes close together here, they look unused.
:banana At first glance, they looked like busted motor mounts. :die I see the mounts now. :news Good to go. :thumb

I get my Eastwoods stuff from Jeggs.

Great looking ride. :cheers
............I'll be back in a bit........



IC3
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Hogleg
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Joined: May 13th, 2013, 6:33 am

June 30th, 2013, 12:53 am #6

Did a little more work today. Not nearly as much as I wanted because of the rain... My lack of planning when home buying left me without a garage :( I'm building one next year.

Here's a few nice pics of new parts.






A shot of the energy ball joint boots


Control arm mount POR-15 protected




Old axle seals


Old seals with new part numbers


New 3Tech cam installed...waiting on my +10 sprocket. Should be in the mail.


New camshaft seal on my new 222/365 3Tech cam.


Here's some old nasty parts


This ones not too bad. Probably replaced 10 years ago.


This one looks original. Boots cracked but not broken. Hogleg doesn't f*ck around. Change em both!




Was planning on getting the struts out and be able to swap the springs out tonight, but the knuckle bolts are locked in there good. Broke one bolt off the driver side. I got the nuts off the passenger side but the bolts are really frozen in there. Gonna need some heat I suppose. Buying a torch tonight for 75$ off a buddy. Need it for one of my spinning rear lugs anyway.

Lesson learned for today is... don't replace cv joints and cam at the same time while the car is in gear. I turned the hub and moved the crank. I'm pretty sure I'm going to have extra work making sure my timing is good.
SOLD : The Gremlin <--Link
1991 Geo Metro Convertible 3/5. Freshly rebuilt engine

Installed parts:3Tech 222/365 cam & +10 sprocket, TT control arm brace, CS130 alt & hardware, M.A.C's front and rear strut bars, KYB front and rear struts, bellows, and mounts, Swift GT seats, Swift GT tail lights, NGK IX 3903's, 7.5mm Si mag core wireset, SRD single underdrive pulley & bolt on titanium wrapped header, flowmonster cat, K&N filter, synchromesh fluid, Raybestos pro control arms with polly boots and zerks, new half shafts, Boston Acoustics RC41 components w/Scosche Bluetooth headset.

Sold 5/5/15

DontH8cuzuaint
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t3ragtop
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Joined: May 2nd, 2010, 10:48 pm

June 30th, 2013, 4:37 am #7

i order my internal frame spray and rust encapsulator from ebay, 3 cans of internal frame spray and 4 cans of rust encapsultor at a time, from the specials on the eastwood company ebay listings. i save a little money on them that way. $15.99 each shipped for the frame spray and $14.99 each shipped for the rust encapsulator.

i also buy the rust encapsulator in quarts for the floor for $46 shipped.

i'll look forward to seeing the vert at geopalooza. :D
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Hogleg
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Joined: May 13th, 2013, 6:33 am

July 1st, 2013, 2:38 am #8

Thanks T3! Your vert is the one to look(gawk) at at geopalooza. Now that's one sweet ride!

Got some more work done today, again not as much as planned, but it's all downhill from here!


The strut bolts on both sides were locked in so tight I didn't need to wrench the other side while torquing the nuts off probably around 200flbs. With the nuts off I tried pounding them out with a hammer but they wouldn't budge.


The solution was a 30 minute trip to my friends house to buy an acetylene torch for 75$... BEST 75& I ever spent.


After I applied a little heat, I was able to turn the bolts and break them free, then they hammered out with ease!


With both bolts out on each side the struts came out nicely.


Good thing I remembered to support the hub assembly


Another strutless shot.


I thought this looked exceptionally solid and clean but with nothing to compare it too I'm not sure.


The other side as well.


While I had the valve cover off I figured what the hell.


Tomorrow I might get the POR-15 out and get a few coats down, then install the new struts Tuesday or Wednesday then test drive after i get my cam gear installed. My goal is to have it on the road by August 10th so I'm pretty confident I'll be driving and not towing the orange(for now) gremlin to geopalooza.
Last edited by Hogleg on July 1st, 2013, 3:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
SOLD : The Gremlin <--Link
1991 Geo Metro Convertible 3/5. Freshly rebuilt engine

Installed parts:3Tech 222/365 cam & +10 sprocket, TT control arm brace, CS130 alt & hardware, M.A.C's front and rear strut bars, KYB front and rear struts, bellows, and mounts, Swift GT seats, Swift GT tail lights, NGK IX 3903's, 7.5mm Si mag core wireset, SRD single underdrive pulley & bolt on titanium wrapped header, flowmonster cat, K&N filter, synchromesh fluid, Raybestos pro control arms with polly boots and zerks, new half shafts, Boston Acoustics RC41 components w/Scosche Bluetooth headset.

Sold 5/5/15

DontH8cuzuaint
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t3ragtop
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Joined: May 2nd, 2010, 10:48 pm

July 1st, 2013, 3:18 am #9

from your pics, that car is very clean by ohio standards.

i'd be flooding the void under the toe board at the bottom of the dash with internal frame spray right now. there's rust brewing in the bottoms of the door posts. all it would take is a few good thunder showers, a leaky top, and you might start popping holes under the factory seam sealer.

that's a great deal on an oxy-acetylene set. i use a propane torch and the one i've had for 30 years died on me today. i had to buy a $35 piece o' crap just to get on with my work removing the front control arms. something that will work faster for heat plus have the facility to use the torch to cut steel for $75 is a super deal.
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calrenman
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Joined: March 4th, 2012, 12:08 pm

July 1st, 2013, 9:21 am #10

I do the freaky paint too. I have to post pics! It looks nice.
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